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Tamiya M60-A1 U.S.M.C w/Reactive Armor
AlxUSMC
Joined: December 04, 2008
KitMaker: 216 posts
Armorama: 132 posts
Posted: Monday, May 25, 2009 - 08:36 AM UTC
I found this kit, and since I'm not really as experienced as 98% of members, I figured it would be a good starter, after the M1A2 from Italeri, I realized that I needed some practice. I payed 16 bucks and figured it would'nt be a huge loss. So here it is, I'm thinking about submitting this for the DMoM this month for beginners. I painted it with acrylic paint from Model Master using an airbrush I bought from Model Expo cheap $$$. Most of the techniques I've emulated come from users here on ARMORAMA, so thanks to all, you have been great tutors all feedback is welcome!! .
more shots soon
. more shots soon
AlxUSMC
Joined: December 04, 2008
KitMaker: 216 posts
Armorama: 132 posts
Posted: Monday, May 25, 2009 - 08:45 AM UTC
sorry about the quality....Im not a professional photographer.
thats all of them, hopefully good for the DMoM
thats all of them, hopefully good for the DMoM
sgtsauer
#065
Joined: March 30, 2002
KitMaker: 2,605 posts
Armorama: 1,814 posts
Posted: Monday, May 25, 2009 - 09:21 AM UTC
Overall you did great work. A couple of things I saw in your pictures are:
1. Color the interior of the smoke grenade launcher tubes.
2. Color your headlights appropriately (i.e. visible light, black out lights, etc.)
Keep up the great work, I look forward to seeing more.
1. Color the interior of the smoke grenade launcher tubes.
2. Color your headlights appropriately (i.e. visible light, black out lights, etc.)
Keep up the great work, I look forward to seeing more.
Belt_Fed
Joined: February 02, 2008
KitMaker: 1,388 posts
Armorama: 1,325 posts
Posted: Monday, May 25, 2009 - 09:40 AM UTC
Excellent work for a beginner. Hell, excellent work period. Your tracks look a bit bland, though, and are "incorrect" in color. M60 tracks are usually a rusty red-brown with dark gray track pads (inside and out). HTH.
Kuno-Von-Dodenburg
Joined: February 20, 2007
KitMaker: 1,453 posts
Armorama: 1,319 posts
Posted: Monday, May 25, 2009 - 09:57 AM UTC
Fantastic job Alex.
Your paint job is very good. The only things that leap out at me are (1) that the viewing ports in the cupola seem to lack any dimension and appear to have simply been painted on, and (2) you can see that the inside is hollow because you've left the hatches open. Maybe fill 'em with a couple of crew figures, or close 'em up?
Thanks for posting.
- Steve
Your paint job is very good. The only things that leap out at me are (1) that the viewing ports in the cupola seem to lack any dimension and appear to have simply been painted on, and (2) you can see that the inside is hollow because you've left the hatches open. Maybe fill 'em with a couple of crew figures, or close 'em up?
Thanks for posting.
- Steve
AlxUSMC
Joined: December 04, 2008
KitMaker: 216 posts
Armorama: 132 posts
Posted: Monday, May 25, 2009 - 09:59 AM UTC
thanks, I dont really know about the tracks....they are made of a flexible vinyl I guess and went with the Tamiya coloring guide. So should I just dry brush the edges red brown lightly and hope for the best??
AlxUSMC
Joined: December 04, 2008
KitMaker: 216 posts
Armorama: 132 posts
Posted: Monday, May 25, 2009 - 10:00 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Overall you did great work. A couple of things I saw in your pictures are:
1. Color the interior of the smoke grenade launcher tubes.
2. Color your headlights appropriately (i.e. visible light, black out lights, etc.)
Keep up the great work, I look forward to seeing more.
I didnt even think to color the glt's! and the headlights completely slipped my mind...I still have to color the Marines, and fix the tracks, and lastly color in the lights. thanks for the headsup though!!
AlxUSMC
Joined: December 04, 2008
KitMaker: 216 posts
Armorama: 132 posts
Posted: Monday, May 25, 2009 - 10:05 AM UTC
Quoted Text
(1) that the viewing ports in the cupola seem to lack any dimension and appear to have simply been painted on, and (2) you can see that the inside is hollow because you've left the hatches open.
- Steve
I was really stumped because the kit doesn't contain any clear parts, and I dont really know what to do about it...any suggestions?? any ideas would really help
2. the Kit includes two figures which I am scared to tackle, I have primed and painted them, but I have never painted anything so small, so I walk by my desk every coupe of hours debating
, but I promise if I submit this for the Model of the Month, the devildogs will be included.
sgtreef
Joined: March 01, 2002
KitMaker: 6,043 posts
Armorama: 4,347 posts
Posted: Monday, May 25, 2009 - 11:34 AM UTC
Good job for a First model.
Dang good indeed.
One suggestion put it on a base that will help it stand out a tad better.
Also try some Periscope color from Panzer Aces good color to use.
Ditto closing it up.
So is this what they call the Blazer?
Put a dozer balde on it.
Any more builds coming up next?
Dang good indeed.
One suggestion put it on a base that will help it stand out a tad better.
Also try some Periscope color from Panzer Aces good color to use.
Ditto closing it up.
So is this what they call the Blazer?
Put a dozer balde on it.
Any more builds coming up next?
trahe
Joined: April 03, 2006
KitMaker: 1,158 posts
Armorama: 950 posts
Posted: Monday, May 25, 2009 - 01:43 PM UTC
Alex, looks pretty good! One thing I saw (maybe it's just the lighting) but it looks like the edges of some of the reactive armor blocks and the backsides of others didn't quite get painted when you airbrushed. Like I said, maybe just the lighting. Congrats on a great build!
bison126
Joined: June 10, 2004
KitMaker: 5,329 posts
Armorama: 5,204 posts
Posted: Monday, May 25, 2009 - 06:55 PM UTC
Nice build. I have the same on the workbench. You should add some clear plastic in the hollow vision blocks.
This kit is quite an easy build, not much extra work except for the mesh of the turret basket.
The add-on armor fits perfectly.
Jeff, Blazer is an Isreali reactive armor package to my knowledge. I believe the Marines armor is slightly different.
This kit is quite an easy build, not much extra work except for the mesh of the turret basket.
The add-on armor fits perfectly.
Jeff, Blazer is an Isreali reactive armor package to my knowledge. I believe the Marines armor is slightly different.
AlxUSMC
Joined: December 04, 2008
KitMaker: 216 posts
Armorama: 132 posts
Posted: Monday, May 25, 2009 - 07:26 PM UTC
As Bison said, the blazer is Israeli, Marines used a different armor. I have read that this model has many innacuracies. As far as adding the blade, I probably dont have the experience to add it on, plus the rules for the contest say no aftermarket items allowed.
AlxUSMC
Joined: December 04, 2008
KitMaker: 216 posts
Armorama: 132 posts
Posted: Monday, May 25, 2009 - 07:29 PM UTC
Quoted Text
This kit is quite an easy build, not much extra work except for the mesh of the turret basket.
The add-on armor fits perfectly.
I praise anyone that has no problems with that mesh, I almost quit the whole thing just because of the basket and mesh, If you look closely on the port side of the tanks basket, the top rail section is missing. Either the kit was old, or I dont have angel fingers, either way it took me about 30 minutes to get everything in place. I cant wait to see an experienced modeler attack this one, look forward to seeing yours!
bison126
Joined: June 10, 2004
KitMaker: 5,329 posts
Armorama: 5,204 posts
Posted: Monday, May 25, 2009 - 08:44 PM UTC
Quoted Text
. Either the kit was old, or I dont have angel fingers, either way it took me about 30 minutes to get everything in place. I cant wait to see an experienced modeler attack this one, look forward to seeing yours!
Nothing strange in what you experienced. In fact Tamiya's mesh is too stiff. I cut it according to the pattern provided in the instructions. Then I soaked the baskets rails with thin glue so that they stick enough to hold the mesh in place. Before the glue sets, I adjust the mesh part then I cover the mesh with thin glue not by rubbing it but more by "stamping" it with a square brush.
Once done and the glue has fully set, you can strengthen your assembly by using some CA glue on the contact surfaces between the rails and the mesh. This may help to cut the excess of mesh fabric.
To me, the most tricky part of it was to cut the mesh so as to get a regular alignment of the "squares".
AlxUSMC
Joined: December 04, 2008
KitMaker: 216 posts
Armorama: 132 posts
Posted: Monday, May 25, 2009 - 08:51 PM UTC
good to know, quick question, I want to dry brush the model, but im terrified of it, any quick advice or hip pocket class on how??
bison126
Joined: June 10, 2004
KitMaker: 5,329 posts
Armorama: 5,204 posts
Posted: Tuesday, May 26, 2009 - 12:41 AM UTC
Quoted Text
good to know, quick question, I want to dry brush the model, but im terrified of it, any quick advice or hip pocket class on how??
The theory is to use the base color with some drops of white to enlighten it. Put some of the mixture on a brush, remove the excess so as the brush is nearly dry and rub it smoothly over the model.
Personnally, I quite never use this technique as I don't master it with the Tamiya paints I use. You could use some pigments to give your model an "operational" look. It's easier to do and you can remove the excess of powder if need be.
bellers
Joined: September 30, 2008
KitMaker: 253 posts
Armorama: 218 posts
Posted: Tuesday, May 26, 2009 - 06:09 AM UTC
hi alex nice build.as for the dry brushing after you have removed the excess let the brush do the work dont try to force the affect buy useing 2 much paint on the brush .have a go on an old kit first .dont no what paint you use but vallejo has lotsof colours and is excelent for dry brushing if used in the right way 
GeraldOwens
Joined: March 30, 2006
KitMaker: 3,736 posts
Armorama: 3,697 posts
Posted: Tuesday, May 26, 2009 - 01:54 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted Text(1) that the viewing ports in the cupola seem to lack any dimension and appear to have simply been painted on, and (2) you can see that the inside is hollow because you've left the hatches open.
- Steve
I was really stumped because the kit doesn't contain any clear parts, and I dont really know what to do about it...any suggestions?? any ideas would really help
2. the Kit includes two figures which I am scared to tackle, I have primed and painted them, but I have never painted anything so small, so I walk by my desk every coupe of hours debating
Well, if you don't want to go the whole shading and highlighting route on the figures, try treating them like any other part of an armor model. Just use subtle washes to pick out the details, and leave the oil paints and microscopic details for another time. Most hobby paint flesh tones look sallow and dead, but a thin wash of red brown will bring it to life and get you about 60% of the look that real detail painting would achieve. One of the big mistakes newcomers make on figures is to paint big white eyeballs with huge dark irises, producing a bizarre, pop-eyed effect. In real life, people squint in bright sunlight, and all you usually see is dark slits.
The cupola vision ports are awfully blue--in real life, they usually just looked glossy black, or nearly so, though on more recent vehicles than the M60, vision devices have red, pink or orange translucent coatings added to defeat lasers. The infrared headlights should be gloss black, and drill out the regular headlights and replace with model railroad lenses, if you can find them. MV makes a nice selection in a variety of sizes, with clear fronts and real reflectors on the back, and they look much better than than a coat of silver paint. There are other makers, of course--if you can only find clear plastic lenses, the key is to paint the back side silver rather than the front, and install them with white glue.
For the periscope head in front, just white glue a rectangle of clear plastic into the opening (you'll need to install it from underneath). You can buy clear sheet stock in a hobby shop, or just salvage some clear packaging plastic from the next bubble packed product you buy. Paint the inside of the plastic black before you glue it in place.
AlxUSMC
Joined: December 04, 2008
KitMaker: 216 posts
Armorama: 132 posts
Posted: Wednesday, May 27, 2009 - 07:29 PM UTC
I have seen the lenses used before, but due to the fact that im not that experienced, and beause the rules for the DMoM state no aftermarket things or scratchbuilds, which I probably couldnt do, I cannot add these Items to the kit. Maybe in the near future, I will tackle these in that manner, for now I am just going to paint the lenses, but all your advice is ridiculously awesome. Cross your fingers that I can manage these things, and turn out a great model
Jeff8600
Joined: June 19, 2007
KitMaker: 254 posts
Armorama: 76 posts
Posted: Tuesday, June 02, 2009 - 09:17 AM UTC
Looking good Alex
I'm also working on the same model I added a set of AFV Club workable tracks. I am debating on using the figures but I think I'll go with them. Also I found that a very dark gray works better for the road wheels.
I'm also working on the same model I added a set of AFV Club workable tracks. I am debating on using the figures but I think I'll go with them. Also I found that a very dark gray works better for the road wheels.
RSingleton
Joined: August 26, 2008
KitMaker: 286 posts
Armorama: 273 posts
Posted: Tuesday, June 02, 2009 - 09:45 AM UTC
Nice tank! I can't really say anything to fix it as I think everything to help it has been said. Great job and I hope your figures are as excellent as the tank.
Rich
Rich
AlxUSMC
Joined: December 04, 2008
KitMaker: 216 posts
Armorama: 132 posts
Posted: Tuesday, June 02, 2009 - 06:01 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Nice tank! I can't really say anything to fix it as I think everything to help it has been said. Great job and I hope your figures are as excellent as the tank.
Rich
Here is what I have done so far
https://armorama.kitmaker.net/forums/140234&page=1
AlxUSMC
Joined: December 04, 2008
KitMaker: 216 posts
Armorama: 132 posts
Posted: Tuesday, June 02, 2009 - 06:04 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Looking good Alex
I'm also working on the same model I added a set of AFV Club workable tracks. I am debating on using the figures but I think I'll go with them. Also I found that a very dark gray works better for the road wheels.
I was thinking about it, but just weathered them in red brown and a bit or rust and sand,
check them out tell me what you think
https://armorama.kitmaker.net/forums/140234&page=1
Tanker9
Joined: January 31, 2009
KitMaker: 165 posts
Armorama: 141 posts
Posted: Thursday, June 11, 2009 - 07:35 AM UTC
Looks great, keep up the good work. 
muddyfields
Joined: February 04, 2006
KitMaker: 884 posts
Armorama: 622 posts
Posted: Thursday, June 11, 2009 - 08:44 AM UTC
Hello
That's a very nice build, you have done well for a 2nd kit.
That's a very nice build, you have done well for a 2nd kit.
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