Armor/AFV: Vietnam
All things Vietnam
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Newbie M35A1 Build. The Convoy Begins...
joegrafton
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Posted: Sunday, July 25, 2010 - 05:46 AM UTC
By the way, I'm going to be building the frame for the canvas top soon. What material should I best use? Now, I have copper wire in varying thicknesses but would brass wire be better to use?
Any opinions?
Joe.
trickymissfit
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Posted: Sunday, July 25, 2010 - 06:57 AM UTC

Quoted Text

By the way, I'm going to be building the frame for the canvas top soon. What material should I best use? Now, I have copper wire in varying thicknesses but would brass wire be better to use?
Any opinions?
Joe.



I think I'd use brass. Copper is soft and easilly deforms. Better yet might be .5 mm drill rod (also comes in .015" and .032") or welding rod used in TIG welding. This stuff is a little stiff, but bends nicely.
gary
pouikpouik
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Posted: Sunday, July 25, 2010 - 07:42 AM UTC
Hi Joe,

Your work is so useful for me! I'm working right now on a M35A2 but not getting into detail alot as yours. What a pitty that the AFV kit misses a hook at the labstab and i try to occur or scratch one.

Thank you guys, this thread contains alot of real photos to build a perfect truck!!!
Keep going on, i'd follow your work usually.
Btw, do you have an idea about M37 because I intend to modify a M37 from the Skybow WC51 Beep but it seems that the WC51's rear side is shorter and larger than M37 according to walk-around pics found on www.primeportal.net alot of work and i'm not expert of scratch-build...
bulivyf
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Posted: Sunday, July 25, 2010 - 07:48 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Hi Joe,

Your work is so useful for me! I'm working right now on a M35A2 but not getting into detail alot as yours. What a pitty that the AFV kit misses a hook at the labstab and i try to occur or scratch one.

Thank you guys, this thread contains alot of real photos to build a perfect truck!!!
Keep going on, i'd follow your work usually.
Btw, do you have an idea about M37 because I intend to modify a M37 from the Skybow WC51 Beep but it seems that the WC51's rear side is shorter and larger than M37 according to walk-around pics. alot of work and i'm not expert of scratch-build...




M 37 photos
http://www.garbee.net/~cabell/photoindex.htm
joegrafton
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Posted: Sunday, July 25, 2010 - 08:50 AM UTC
Hi Gary,
Thanks for the tip. You know, I thought the copper stuff was a little too bendy.
I'll have to invest in some brass rod. What thickness do you think I'd need? 0.5mm? Smaller, mabye?

Hi Ha Pham,
I'm really glad you like the thread. It's not really me, though. It's all the contributors who make the thread what it is. I'm a total layman when it comes to this sort of thing. I just ask the experts & they very kindly respond. Thankyou gents...you all know who you are.
As to your M37 question; its not something that I've looked into yet, I'm afraid. I've got so many kits stacked up in the cupboard already that I need to make, that the M37 is something that I'll pick up on later.
Sorry I cant be any more helpful on that one.
Keep on reading the thread, my friend...you never know where this could end up!
Good luck with your M35A2 build.
Joe.
joegrafton
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Posted: Wednesday, July 28, 2010 - 04:32 AM UTC
Hi fellas,
I just want to check something here before I do anything.
Do I need to remove any of the reflectors from the side/front/rear of the cargo bed?
I understand that the A1 didn't have any reflectors at the rear. Is this correct? What about the sides? There are reflectors moulded to the sides but I think this is a money saver on the part of AFV Club by not remoulding the parts for the A1 version & supplying the same parts as the A2 version.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Joe.
HeavyArty
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Posted: Wednesday, July 28, 2010 - 04:37 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Do I need to remove any of the reflectors from the side/front/rear of the cargo bed?
I understand that the A1 didn't have any reflectors at the rear. Is this correct? What about the sides?



Look back on page 1 of this thread at the TM pics Frenchy posted. All of them have rear reflectors on the bed sides and rear plate. I think they should be there. I think you are confusing the reflectors on the bed with the reflectors next to the rear lights.
joegrafton
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Posted: Wednesday, July 28, 2010 - 04:47 AM UTC
Hi Gino,
Oh, okay. Thanks.
Joe.
joegrafton
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Posted: Wednesday, July 28, 2010 - 08:13 AM UTC
Hi fellas,
I'm thinking of replacing the rear view mirrors that come with the M35A1 kit with a set of 'West Coast' mirrors from an Italeri M 925 5ton truck that I have going spare. Now, would these mirrors from the 5ton fit the 2.5ton truck? In other words, are they the same size?
Joe.
HeavyArty
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Posted: Wednesday, July 28, 2010 - 08:33 AM UTC

Quoted Text

...would these mirrors from the 5ton fit the 2.5ton truck?



Yes, they are the same size.
bulivyf
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Posted: Wednesday, July 28, 2010 - 08:48 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Hi fellas,
I'm thinking of replacing the rear view mirrors that come with the M35A1 kit with a set of 'West Coast' mirrors from an Italeri M 925 5ton truck that I have going spare. Now, would these mirrors from the 5ton fit the 2.5ton truck? In other words, are they the same size?
Joe.





Yes, the same size but no fit from 5t to 2,5t(models).
Miloslav
HeavyArty
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Posted: Wednesday, July 28, 2010 - 09:04 AM UTC
Yes they do. They fit fine. Here are modified (to fit around the exhaust stack)Italeri M923A1 5 ton mirrors on a stretched M35 cab for my M54A1 guntruck King Cobra.


joegrafton
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Posted: Wednesday, July 28, 2010 - 12:27 PM UTC
Gino,
Now that is a nice model! And that is a serious exhaust stack! How did you do the Stars & Stripes on the M113 turret? It looks really efective.
So, do I have to do any modifications to the M925 mirrors? There's no need to worry about an exhaust stack as I'm building the A1 version but Miloslav seems to think they wont fit. I'd like to hear your thoughts.
Joe.
HeavyArty
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Posted: Wednesday, July 28, 2010 - 12:32 PM UTC
The mirrors will fit w/out mods since there is no stack to go around. For the stars on King Cobra, I made it about 10 years ago, before I started printing decals. The blue & star field was printed on very thin paper and glued to the gun shield. The red and white stripes were hand painted, along with the snake and the words "King Cobra".

You can see more of the truck here. It isn't perfect, but looks pretty good. At the time, I missed that the front of the hood/grill should be flat across, as opposed to bowed like an M35. Other than that, it is pretty much correct.
joegrafton
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Posted: Wednesday, July 28, 2010 - 12:40 PM UTC
Okay, thanks Gino. Well, that makes life a whole lot easier.
That's an amazing paint job you've done there. Wow, I'd love to be able to do something like that!
I'll try & get the mirrors fitted tomorrow & post some photos.
Joe.
joegrafton
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Posted: Wednesday, July 28, 2010 - 01:10 PM UTC
Hi fellas,
I dont suppose anybody could supply a couple of good shots of the way the 'West Coast' mirrors are actually fitted to the truck, could they?
Thanks.
Joe.
HeavyArty
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Posted: Wednesday, July 28, 2010 - 01:42 PM UTC
The top rod attaches to the top of the upper door hinge (1).

The forward angled support attaches to the body at the seam line between the side panel and the piece that goes in front of the windshield (2).

The bottom angled rod attaches to the top of the bottor door hinge (3).

joegrafton
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Posted: Wednesday, July 28, 2010 - 06:17 PM UTC
Thanks Gino, for the photograph. That has helped me out some.
What's the story with the headlights? I always thought that they were in the lower position on trucks without a winch until about 1966. The one above has the higher positioned headlights but was built in '59. Or was it originally fitted with a winch?
BTW, that's a nice series 2 Land Rover that the A2 is standing next to!
Joe.
bulivyf
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Posted: Wednesday, July 28, 2010 - 06:28 PM UTC
Joe
I used for all GT AFV mirrors with AFV frame because mirrors from AVF is correct.
Better is make of new frame from wire. This is very realistic.
Miloslav
Frenchy
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Posted: Wednesday, July 28, 2010 - 06:31 PM UTC
Hi Joe
Remember what David Doyle said in two of his posts (in the other thread about the most common truck in Vietnam) ?"The M35A1 was introduced in 1961, and remained in production until June 1965, when the M35A2 was introduced - but even then the exhaust remained horizontal. The vertical exhaust did not come about until 1969, and this was changed to a slghtly larger also-vertical pipe the early 1970s " and "Also worth mentioning are low-mounted position of the headlights. This was the norm on non-winch trucks in the Standard Nomenclature List series G-742 (M35A2) trucks up to about 1969-1970, when all trucks in this family, both winch and non-winch, went to the high mounted position.../...all these trucks lack the mesh stone guard over the grille - that feature was not introduced until after Vietnam"
So obviously there are at least a few things that don't match the picture above Maybe this truck has been extensively rebuilt with late features

Frenchy
joegrafton
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Posted: Wednesday, July 28, 2010 - 08:57 PM UTC
Okay, more photos as promised. Hopefully...

Front view of completed cab.
Too late, I realised I added the mesh screen across the radiator grill but according to David Doyle this feature wasn't seen until after Vietnam. Is that correct David?And it's stuck on with CA! So no going back, unfortunately! Oh well, I know for next time...

joegrafton
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Posted: Wednesday, July 28, 2010 - 09:01 PM UTC

View from port side showing some PE detail, a resin jerry can for water by Resicast & a little interior detail with a layer of milliput sandbags across the cab floor.
joegrafton
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Posted: Wednesday, July 28, 2010 - 09:15 PM UTC

Starboard side view again showing PE detail, sandbags & added wiring to fuel tank.
Note the co-drivers seat is in the down position. The Eduard PE set comes with a nice piece of tread plate that fits to the back of the seat & I thought it would look rather effective with this plate showing. I also wanted to prove to myself that I could rework a plastic part so I thought I'd start with something that was fairly easy.
To make the sandbags I used the method that was pointed out to me here on armorama, using milliput. I think I stuck to the correct measurements but I felt they turned out a little too big; especially on the passenger side. I shaped them with a wet brush & toothpick & allowed to dry overnight. Next time I'll have a figure next just to check the scale.
I used lead wire for the additional wiring on the fuel tank. I tried to follow the pictures that Frenchy loaded up on this thread but I know it's not 100% correct although it is, after all, my first go. Hopefully, I can improve on it for next time!
joegrafton
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Posted: Wednesday, July 28, 2010 - 09:39 PM UTC

This view shows the rear cab detail & a little interior work.
The canvas roof cover tie down hooks on the rear of the cab had to be removed from the original kit & replaced with much more detailed PE hooks. All I can say here is that this job was a real nightmare. Small, fiddly parts is not my forte at this point in my modelling apprenticeship! Oh well, if you dont try you dont learn!
Dashboard & windscreen detail: I cut down & reshaped the redundant M35A2 exhaust pipe that comes with the kit to make the interior windscreen wiper mechanisms & added some lead wire & PE handles to finish them off. These are a little too large, I think, but again, this is a first try.
You'll notice I have used Mr Surfacer 1000 around where the hood fits to the engine compartment because all these pieces didn't fit together too well.
I'll be working on the mirrors later & I've ordered some 0.5mm brass rod to make the frame for the roof cover which has, incidentally, just come through the letterbox!
joegrafton
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Posted: Wednesday, July 28, 2010 - 09:42 PM UTC
Finished doors...

Sink holes filled & rubbed down & a little PE detail added.