Яusso-Soviэt Forum: WWII Soviet Armor
For discussions related to WW2 era Soviet armor.
DML T34 - WIP (PICS)
Spiderfrommars
Visit this Community
Milano, Italy
Joined: July 13, 2010
KitMaker: 3,845 posts
Armorama: 3,543 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 27, 2011 - 04:08 AM UTC

Quoted Text



And actually just yesterday I went for a stroll around Toronto and got some cool pictures of construction equipment, rusty trailers, scratched cranes, etc etc. and it was fun.




That's a GREAT idea
Dogwatch
Visit this Community
Texas, United States
Joined: December 14, 2009
KitMaker: 48 posts
Armorama: 41 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 27, 2011 - 04:14 AM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

Before you decide to use PE, ensure that you are getting a benefit from it...

...Another trick I was told a long time ago was to look at construction equipment to see how mud, scratches, dents and other cosmetic things actually look and to get an idea or two from that...



I'm using the PE almost JUST to use it. I know it may be "too long" or at least longer than reference photos may suggest it be but this is the FIRST time I've tried PE and am not worrying about accuracy etc just yet. I have another thread elsewhere about a Hummel project I'd like to do and for sure I will be sticking to reference photos for that(it's sitting up on the closet shelf just waiting to be opened ).

And actually just yesterday I went for a stroll around Toronto and got some cool pictures of construction equipment, rusty trailers, scratched cranes, etc etc. and it was fun.


Quoted Text

...The Russians were notorious for abuse of equipment and their equipment was not pretty, clean or super designed like the Germans.



This is also why I'm not too worried about it thus far. A minor bend or the corner sticking up a little isn't really a big problem to me. Its basically my first REAL model; I've been reading about techniques for months now and think I have a decent handle on most things I need right now. Plus there's always weathering/stowage items that I can use to my advantage to fix/hide some minor mistakes;).



It sounds like you are off to a great start. :-) I know PE can be a time sucker and sometimes the benefits just arent there so I usually try to warn others LOL.
clay_cliff
Visit this Community
Lima, Peru
Joined: April 07, 2008
KitMaker: 375 posts
Armorama: 371 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 27, 2011 - 04:59 AM UTC
For some reason, I can't see pictures hosted at Imageshack since some days Hope to see it soon. Best regards.

José.
Thivi11
Visit this Community
Ontario, Canada
Joined: January 12, 2011
KitMaker: 219 posts
Armorama: 158 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 27, 2011 - 05:10 AM UTC

Quoted Text

For some reason, I can't see pictures hosted at Imageshack since some days Hope to see it soon. Best regards.

José.



Maybe its your browser? Thats too bad, I didn't know where else to go for image hosting, alas.

Thanks for the warning Steve!

Well... I think I'd like to do a T34 thats seen a bit of battle, nothing too over the top. I like how the tires turned out, so I'd just maybe like to leave some straps over items hanging, things sliding off, maybe only a few extra track links on the tank, if at all. What do you think?

In looking for reference photos I came across the monstrosity:


Honestly could make a really cool vignette! Maybe I'll be building another T34 soon.
Thivi11
Visit this Community
Ontario, Canada
Joined: January 12, 2011
KitMaker: 219 posts
Armorama: 158 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 27, 2011 - 05:29 AM UTC
I know it'll be hard to switch gears and come back to this build after seeing A PINK TANK buuuut...

I'm wondering about the piece behind the PE grill, it fits into the U shaped hole that's cut out. Its hard to describe what piece, its not on this tank:



Can you see the gap just above the exhausts, in the middle?

It says to glue it on, I have seen it in some pictures, and not on others. Should I just leave it off? I'm not going for model with a story or anything, just a 1941 Ts4/76 thats seen some rough stuff.

EDIT: I didn't realize this picture was so small, its that tiny black spot... right there... lol
Thivi11
Visit this Community
Ontario, Canada
Joined: January 12, 2011
KitMaker: 219 posts
Armorama: 158 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 27, 2011 - 08:19 AM UTC
I hate to have a 3rd consecutive post in a row but I got some work done!

I added some detail to the back (exhausts etc.) and glued on one of the fuel tanks. I was thinking of leaving one or so off for effect, but I'm not going crazy with this build so we'll see what happens. Aaanyway, I tried to tackle the PE straps for the tanks... please for the love of god tell me the ONE I got done, is on properly If not, I think it may be plastic this time around.

PICTURES:





BeanStorm
Visit this Community
United States
Joined: January 23, 2010
KitMaker: 25 posts
Armorama: 21 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 27, 2011 - 02:57 PM UTC
What! I curse those darn things. To be fair I messed up on the assembly of the tracks a perfectly good model is now scrap! I did find my mistakes and some help.
BeanStorm
Visit this Community
United States
Joined: January 23, 2010
KitMaker: 25 posts
Armorama: 21 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 27, 2011 - 03:40 PM UTC

Quoted Text

To be honest, I had started to think it looked wrong. Also, the directions say to glue it from underneath so... thanks Dragon. Well I'll do my best to remove it but I guess I might be using the plastic piece, at least I got some experience with PE.

*big sighhhhhhhh*

EDIT: I got the PE unattached to the bottom, and now I'm having the same problem I believe someone else on the forums had. The PE is too long to fit on top of the opening without showing some plastic from underneath. Cut the PE or shave the plastic? Orrrr say screw it (at least it looked good, just wrong position) and use the molded plastic piece?

I am trying not to get discouraged! It is but a minor speed-bump!



Had the same issues and I suggest put the tracks on before you attach the top hull with the bottom hull. Photo etch is tough but I have learned a lot from everyone on this site. Good luck! I will buy another T-34 as I ruined my first attempt!
Thivi11
Visit this Community
Ontario, Canada
Joined: January 12, 2011
KitMaker: 219 posts
Armorama: 158 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 27, 2011 - 04:26 PM UTC
So are you saying the strap is done properly? I don't mean to be rude I just don't want to do the others until I know for sure lol.

Both hulls are already glued, what problems did you have with the tracks, they've been making mr nervous this whole time.
Thivi11
Visit this Community
Ontario, Canada
Joined: January 12, 2011
KitMaker: 219 posts
Armorama: 158 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 27, 2011 - 04:42 PM UTC

Quoted Text

...perfectly good model is now scrap!



Just practice some rusting techniques etc. make a wreck. Just let it hang out for inspiration... a sort of tank wreck of your own.
meaty_hellhound
Visit this Community
Alberta, Canada
Joined: July 23, 2010
KitMaker: 786 posts
Armorama: 753 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 27, 2011 - 05:18 PM UTC
hi Jaredt,
the DML T34 kits are tricky ones from what i gather from online reviews.

one thing i have seen not fixed on many finished T34 models but is an easy upgrade is to thin the exhaust pipes. take a sharp knife or dremel bit and thin the inner surface to look more like this pic (for discussion purpose only):



the pipes also look like they are crooked, pulling to the right on both. don't know if you can tweak them back straighter. maybe you can loosen them up by adding liquid styrene glue like Testors on them.

one other thing is the rubber damage on the roadwheels. try using a round needle file rather than a knife to do the knicks. i find i get better random wear than with a blade or dremel. cheers, bd.
Spiderfrommars
Visit this Community
Milano, Italy
Joined: July 13, 2010
KitMaker: 3,845 posts
Armorama: 3,543 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 27, 2011 - 07:51 PM UTC

Quoted Text


one other thing is the rubber damage on the roadwheels. try using a round needle file rather than a knife to do the knicks. i find i get better random wear than with a blade or dremel. cheers, bd.



Personnaly I use both, blades and round needle files to obtain a variety of damages
With blade I chip the wheel edges (just a little bit, It's important don't exaggerate) then I soften the cut, sanding it with a fine scourer or applying a thin layer of liquid glue. I use, of course,Tamiya green cap glue. I apply a very thin coat using the glue brush almost dry.
I don't use absolutely my Dremel for this kind of works. I think is hard to control the effects in that way. My goal is to depict a dammage, I don't want to reproduce a wrecked tank...
Furthermore, to improve the model appearance, I usually thin all the edges (such as fender, tubes, handles and so on) with a x-acto blade #22

It seems a unnecessary work, but actually a model with big thickness of surfaces seems really unrealistic even if his paint job is outstanding.
drumthumper
Visit this Community
Kansas, United States
Joined: December 22, 2004
KitMaker: 392 posts
Armorama: 227 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 27, 2011 - 10:50 PM UTC
You are building very cleanly and that is great to see!!!!! Far too many neophytes ruin their models with glue smears, unaddressed mold lines and shoddy assembly. You are doing well!
Just a few things caught my eye. No. 1, I think the exhaust pipes extend too far from the shrouds. I don't have my T34 references handy at the moment, but they do apear a bit long. Also, your spare fuel cell straps look passable ... the only issue to me is the overlapped strap looks a bit skewed and its edges don't line-up square with the strap underneath. Other than that, and again I don't have pics to compare it too, the straps look okay.
While it is advisable to install the tracks before you glue the lower and upper hulls together, you should not have a huge problem with them. I use Testors-brand medium viscosity glue (in the black bottle with the needle applicator) and lightly tack all the links togther at one time. Then, before the glue dries, slide the track onto the upper run and wrap the track around the idler and drive wheels, meeting at the bottom. You will then probably have to fudge the track (remove a link or add a link) a bit to make eveything link up. The Testors glue gives you plenty of working time, so hurry - but don't rush. Also, T34s had very little play in the track (unlike the KV and JS-series), so get familiar with how they looked and work towards that goal. You'll do fine. It's just plastic and if there are problems they can be fixed.
Kirchoff
Spiderfrommars
Visit this Community
Milano, Italy
Joined: July 13, 2010
KitMaker: 3,845 posts
Armorama: 3,543 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 27, 2011 - 11:15 PM UTC

Quoted Text

You are building very cleanly and that is great to see!!!!! Far too many neophytes ruin their models with glue smears, unaddressed mold lines and shoddy assembly. You are doing well!



I agree, is a clean build. It isn't seems done by an "almost beginner"


Quoted Text

Just a few things caught my eye. No. 1, I think the exhaust pipes extend too far from the shrouds. I don't have my T34 references handy at the moment, but they do apear a bit long.









Yes, they are a little bit longer. But if you mind you can fix them Jaredt
Thivi11
Visit this Community
Ontario, Canada
Joined: January 12, 2011
KitMaker: 219 posts
Armorama: 158 posts
Posted: Monday, February 28, 2011 - 01:16 AM UTC
Wow thanks everyone! This makes me feel great about the build.

I tried to thin the exhaust pipes to look more realistic but didn't want to ruin them, I'll give it another go. And yes they do look a little long, I'll try to fix that too.

I also noticed they're crooked, I will try to fix that as well but I'm not sure if there's much I can do. I just hope the locator hole has a little extra room and its just a matter of turning them a little. If not, it might just end up being a "rough looking" T34, which I'm okay with at this point. There's more kits in the stash, not to worry!

As for the strap, I know its a little bent to the side but I think I can straighten that, just wanted to know if its on proper. Coming from the right side etc but no one seems to have said otherwise so I'll go ahead and do the others. How do you think it'd look if one fuel tank had a strap half undone and looked like it was sliding off?

I know the road wheels may be a little overdone but thats what I've learned by trying to damage them up a bit, less is probably more, so I'll remember that next time.

Thanks again everyone! I'll try and get some more pictures up today before I get started on the magic tracks.

Glad everyone is enjoying giving me a hand!
GeraldOwens
Visit this Community
Florida, United States
Joined: March 30, 2006
KitMaker: 3,736 posts
Armorama: 3,697 posts
Posted: Monday, February 28, 2011 - 01:54 AM UTC

Quoted Text

I know it'll be hard to switch gears and come back to this build after seeing A PINK TANK buuuut...

I'm wondering about the piece behind the PE grill, it fits into the U shaped hole that's cut out. Its hard to describe what piece, its not on this tank:



Can you see the gap just above the exhausts, in the middle?

It says to glue it on, I have seen it in some pictures, and not on others. Should I just leave it off? I'm not going for model with a story or anything, just a 1941 Ts4/76 thats seen some rough stuff.

EDIT: I didn't realize this picture was so small, its that tiny black spot... right there... lol


That's the tail light. It belongs there on an early T-34, like a Model 1940 or '41. It was eliminated to simplify production on most later variants. A smaller U-shaped opening was left on the later tanks (if you leave the part off, you would need to reduce the size of the opening, so it's best to use it).
Thivi11
Visit this Community
Ontario, Canada
Joined: January 12, 2011
KitMaker: 219 posts
Armorama: 158 posts
Posted: Monday, February 28, 2011 - 02:05 AM UTC
OKay great, thanks for clarifying, I'll glue it on today.
Spiderfrommars
Visit this Community
Milano, Italy
Joined: July 13, 2010
KitMaker: 3,845 posts
Armorama: 3,543 posts
Posted: Monday, February 28, 2011 - 04:44 AM UTC
Hi Jaredt

Here you are some references and walkarounds

http://www.primeportal.net/tanks/dmitry_kiyatkin/t-34_76_1941/

http://legion-afv.narod.ru/T-34-76.html

http://dishmodels.ru/wshow.htm?p=1626

http://dishmodels.ru/wshow.htm?p=1621

http://dishmodels.ru/wshow.htm?p=1451

http://dishmodels.ru/wshow.htm?p=1449

http://dishmodels.ru/wshow.htm?p=1302

http://dishmodels.ru/wshow.htm?p=1255

http://dishmodels.ru/wshow.htm?p=358

http://dishmodels.ru/preview/wlk/00/00904/w00904_5709785.jpg

http://dishmodels.ru/wshow.htm?p=697

http://dishmodels.ru/wshow.htm?p=723

http://dishmodels.ru/wshow.htm?p=483

http://dishmodels.ru/wshow.htm?p=250

http://www.fotovalkirumodelism.com/page.php?page=732

http://www.fotovalkirumodelism.com/page.php?page=598

http://www.fotovalkirumodelism.com/page.php?page=579

http://www.fotovalkirumodelism.com/page.php?page=462

http://www.fotovalkirumodelism.com/page.php?page=355

http://svsm.org/gallery/T-34-76

http://www.thetankmaster.com/ENGLISH/afv/t34-76_1.asp

http://www.thetankmaster.com/ENGLISH/afv/T34-76.asp

http://scalemodels.ru/modules/photo/viewcat_cid_400.html

http://scalemodels.ru/modules/photo/viewcat_cid_86.html

http://scalemodels.ru/modules/photo/viewcat_cid_527.html

http://www.o5m6.de/t-34_76_uztm.html

http://www.o5m6.de/t_34_lateprod.html

http://www.o5m6.de/t_34_lateprod.html

http://www.o5m6.de/T-34_76_1943_Turret.html

http://www.battlefield.ru/en/tank-development/27-medium-tanks/79-t34.html

http://www.battlefield.ru/en/tank-development/27-medium-tanks/78-t34-57.html

Construction drawings:

http://www.battlefield.ru/ru/tank-development/27-medium-tanks/82-t34-constructions.html?start=5

3 Views drawings:

http://www.battlefield.ru/images/phocagallery/blueprints/thumbs/phoca_thumb_l_t34_47.gif

http://www.battlefield.ru/images/phocagallery/blueprints/thumbs/phoca_thumb_l_t34_45.gif

http://www.battlefield.ru/images/phocagallery/blueprints/thumbs/phoca_thumb_l_t34_62.gif

http://www.battlefield.ru/en/blueprints.html



All the references are about the T34/76 but be very careful about the version which you want to depict.

Cheers

BeanStorm
Visit this Community
United States
Joined: January 23, 2010
KitMaker: 25 posts
Armorama: 21 posts
Posted: Monday, February 28, 2011 - 05:02 AM UTC
Had the same issues and I suggest put the tracks on before you attach the top hull with the bottom hull. Photo etch is tough but I have learned a lot from everyone on this site. Good luck! I will buy another T-34 as I ruined my first attempt!

My apology's for not expanding my trials with the tracks on this model. I assembled the top track links after much cleaning of flash and injection marks. I snapped them as firmly as I could, but trying to thread it through with the top already assembled keep snapping sections off. So I took off one fender well, helped a little. Then I took idler wheel, nope. Then the sprocket wheel, well after I tried a little glue lightly applied. I ended up putting the model away before my temper flared. Since them I have researched my rookie mistakes and found some examples of track assembly. I will look them up for you and pass them on.
Thivi11
Visit this Community
Ontario, Canada
Joined: January 12, 2011
KitMaker: 219 posts
Armorama: 158 posts
Posted: Monday, February 28, 2011 - 05:24 AM UTC

Quoted Text

...be very careful about the version which you want to depict.



I just want to do a T34/76 Mod. 1941 thats seen a bit of battle. Nothing intense, as accurate as I can be without do too much extra work (keeping it simple for first real build).


Quoted Text

I have researched my rookie mistakes and found some examples of track assembly. I will look them up for you and pass them on.



Thanks, got lots to read!
Spiderfrommars
Visit this Community
Milano, Italy
Joined: July 13, 2010
KitMaker: 3,845 posts
Armorama: 3,543 posts
Posted: Monday, February 28, 2011 - 05:44 AM UTC

Quoted Text


I just want to do a T34/76 Mod. 1941 thats seen a bit of battle. Nothing intense, as accurate as I can be without do too much extra work (keeping it simple for first real build).



Well in those links you can find a lot of references about T-34/76 1941.



Go for example at the first link on the list. Is a huge wa. But probably you've already downloaded

Anyway I hope this will be useful for you

Cheers
Thivi11
Visit this Community
Ontario, Canada
Joined: January 12, 2011
KitMaker: 219 posts
Armorama: 158 posts
Posted: Monday, February 28, 2011 - 06:08 AM UTC
Thanks for the many, many references!

Also, since I've got the one fuel tank glued on, and I have yet to find a picture of a T34 with the tanks on (is this because the fuel was used then there was no use for the tanks? meaning I could attach one more, as if half the fuel is used?). I don't mind if its no entirely accurate but I don't want it to look "weird" or anything. I'd like it to make sense.
Thivi11
Visit this Community
Ontario, Canada
Joined: January 12, 2011
KitMaker: 219 posts
Armorama: 158 posts
Posted: Monday, February 28, 2011 - 08:19 AM UTC
Got some building done while the little one was taking a nap so here goes.

I attached another fuel tank, did all 3 straps I had left to do, got to the other side and although I had already thought maybe I'd leave a fuel tank off to show use, and maybe a strap undone, I was forced to because I lost some PE.





Overall I'm pretty happy with how things are going? Anyone care to tell me otherwise? lol What do you think?

Spiderfrommars
Visit this Community
Milano, Italy
Joined: July 13, 2010
KitMaker: 3,845 posts
Armorama: 3,543 posts
Posted: Monday, February 28, 2011 - 10:46 AM UTC

Quoted Text


Also, since I've got the one fuel tank glued on, and I have yet to find a picture of a T34 with the tanks on (is this because the fuel was used then there was no use for the tanks? meaning I could attach one more, as if half the fuel is used?). I don't mind if its no entirely accurate but I don't want it to look "weird" or anything. I'd like it to make sense.



External fuel tanks were interchangeable.These fuel tanks were not plumbed into the vehicle's fuel system; the fuel had to be pumped into the tank's internal fuel tanks. As far as I know russian threw them away when the tank was in combat. The reason is easy to understand. Fuel tanks weren't armoured so facing up a battle with fuel cells on would increased the burning risk. It could be enough a rifle bullet which hit the drum to ignite the fire
Anyway, that's just what i know. I'm sure somebody else here on the site will be able to give you a more accurate explanation
As i said before there were interchangeable, so it could be realistic painting them with a colors slightly different than the tank tint. and in my opinion it was very likely seeing a T 34 with just one external fuel drum mounted on, but you should verify looking at your reference pics






In my opinion you did a great work with the Pe parts.
Well done, congrats
Thivi11
Visit this Community
Ontario, Canada
Joined: January 12, 2011
KitMaker: 219 posts
Armorama: 158 posts
Posted: Monday, February 28, 2011 - 11:21 AM UTC

Quoted Text

... in my opinion it was very likely seeing a T 34 with just one external fuel drum mounted on, but you should verify looking at your reference pics



Thanks. This might not end up being the MOST accurate but that stuff will come I'm sure. Its nice to see that picture with the fuel tanks strapped on. Makes me feel like it won't be that bad.


Quoted Text

In my opinion you did a great work with the Pe parts.
Well done, congrats



Thanks! Thats all I need to hear lol it's nice that this build is going so well, I'm glad this is the tank I started out with.

I also fastened the strap on the fuel tank instead of leaving it undone.