Ontario, Canada
Joined: January 12, 2011
KitMaker: 219 posts
Armorama: 158 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 26, 2011 - 12:59 AM UTC
This is my first start-to-finish build, BE GENTLE!
I started my 1941 T34 yesterday and have made a little bit of progress thus far. I spent the other day cleaning up wheels, and then taking chunks out of them to simulate wear and tear. I like how it looks but am worried it might be too much. Here's some pictures, what do you all think so far?
New Jersey, United States
Joined: April 20, 2009
KitMaker: 690 posts
Armorama: 672 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 26, 2011 - 01:34 AM UTC
Jaredt,
Looking good so far. Take a look at the 2nd pic, the last roadwheel has the seam still present. Good luck!
Regards,
Georg
If more of us valued food and cheer and song above hoarded gold, it would be a merrier world.
Ontario, Canada
Joined: January 12, 2011
KitMaker: 219 posts
Armorama: 158 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 26, 2011 - 01:41 AM UTC
Thanks!
The plus side to photographing your model I guess lol.
Kansas, United States
Joined: December 22, 2004
KitMaker: 392 posts
Armorama: 227 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 26, 2011 - 02:15 AM UTC
My only thought is while the damage on te roadwheels looks interesting, it appears they were made by the same knifecut. Next time try altering the angle, depth and severity of the cut ... just to make the damage look a little more random. Also, well-weathered rubber has a way of "pebbling" when damaged, so if you have at your disposal a Dremel tool, you might try using a very small ball cutter to simulate this effct on the larger damaged areas. Look at actual photos to see this effect. Overall, you seem well on your way to a really nice T34. Keep posting pics and we'll continue to try and help out
Kirchoff
Kill a man and yer a murderer. Kill many, and yer a conqueror. Kill-em all ... and yer God.
Dave Mustaine
Arkansas, United States
Joined: June 29, 2009
KitMaker: 11,610 posts
Armorama: 7,843 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 26, 2011 - 02:28 AM UTC
I agree with Mike. You can always go back in and change the angle of the cut. I have no experience using a Dremel for weathering, but the theory seems sound.
Ideals are peaceful. History is violent.
Ontario, Canada
Joined: January 12, 2011
KitMaker: 219 posts
Armorama: 158 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 26, 2011 - 02:54 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Next time try altering the angle, depth and severity of the cut ... just to make the damage look a little more random. Also, well-weathered rubber has a way of "pebbling" when damaged, so if you have at your disposal a Dremel tool, you might try using a very small ball cutter to simulate this effct on the larger damaged areas.
I tried to alter angle and depth but I guess didn't do too well. Maybe I'll try a different blade, and add some smaller missing chunks, or fix the ones that are there. As far as the Dremel goes - I'm working on getting one in the near future.
I have looked for some pictures of this but have only found one or two. Any resources are greatly appreciated. Thanks for the kind words, both of you!
Kansas, United States
Joined: December 22, 2004
KitMaker: 392 posts
Armorama: 227 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 26, 2011 - 03:03 AM UTC
All it takes is practice, and you are well on your way to achieving the results you want. I have always used a standard No. 11 blade to gouge rubber tires. It's just a matter of using a little restraint. As for the Dremel, it is by no means necessary to use one to get the effect you want. It's simply another method for getting there.
Kirchoff
Kill a man and yer a murderer. Kill many, and yer a conqueror. Kill-em all ... and yer God.
Dave Mustaine
Milano, Italy
Joined: July 13, 2010
KitMaker: 3,845 posts
Armorama: 3,543 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 26, 2011 - 03:19 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I have looked for some pictures of this but have only found one or two. Any resources are greatly appreciated. Thanks for the kind words, both of you!
Well Jaredt...for damages, look at the "king of damages" ...
http://www.youtube.com/user/mrscratchmod?feature=mhum#p/uhttp://site.scratchmod.com/Anyway, a good start indeed in my opinion. You did a clean work so far and that's very important.
In my very humble opinion the wheels damages are actually a little bit exaggerate, but is a minor flaw (and perhaps just a matter of taste)
So, congrats, let's continue !
cheers
...well in my opinion T-55 isn' t just a tank. Actually it is THE TANK...
Ontario, Canada
Joined: January 12, 2011
KitMaker: 219 posts
Armorama: 158 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 26, 2011 - 03:36 AM UTC
Quoted Text
...used a standard No. 11 blade to gouge rubber tires. It's just a matter of using a little restraint.
This is how I did it as well. I noticed after looking at the photos again, that the 2nd wheel from the left in the 2nd picture does have a few of the "same" chunks taken out and does look kind of uniform.
I think I'll reassemble it and mark the tires with numbers so I know where they are, and make sure the chunks on the outside edges are a little more "scattered" and believable.
@Mauro... thanks for the references, haven't had a chance to look at them yet but will do shortly.
MORE PICTURES TO COME!
...glad I could finally get some work posted on here.
Thanks for all the help!
Milano, Italy
Joined: July 13, 2010
KitMaker: 3,845 posts
Armorama: 3,543 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 26, 2011 - 03:48 AM UTC
Remember Rob (scratchmod) is a member here on the site.
i think you could ask you for advice
Cheers
...well in my opinion T-55 isn' t just a tank. Actually it is THE TANK...
Ontario, Canada
Joined: January 12, 2011
KitMaker: 219 posts
Armorama: 158 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 26, 2011 - 05:17 AM UTC
Any suggestions on how the wheels could be fixed up a bit? I'm trying but its an uphill battle, I might just do my best and leave it.
After all, it is my FIRST model.
Kansas, United States
Joined: December 22, 2004
KitMaker: 392 posts
Armorama: 227 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 26, 2011 - 05:25 AM UTC
I like your idea of moving a few of the wheels to the inside, just to mix things up bit. Also, don't sweat it! The model looks fine and by all means keep going! The worst thing a young modeler can do is dwell on one or two details. ... soon, all interest is lost. At a later stage, if you desire, you can add some dried and caked mud effect to the outside of some of the wheels.
And yes, there are dozens of exceptional and more than qualified modelers here to help answer any questions you might have.
Mike Kirchoff
Signature Models
Kill a man and yer a murderer. Kill many, and yer a conqueror. Kill-em all ... and yer God.
Dave Mustaine
Milano, Italy
Joined: July 13, 2010
KitMaker: 3,845 posts
Armorama: 3,543 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 26, 2011 - 05:48 AM UTC
I absolutely agree with Mike, never mind and carry on.
I'm sure you'll do a very good job.(and actually you've been doing )
Cheers
...well in my opinion T-55 isn' t just a tank. Actually it is THE TANK...
Ontario, Canada
Joined: January 12, 2011
KitMaker: 219 posts
Armorama: 158 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 26, 2011 - 08:51 AM UTC
UPDATE:
So I got a few things onto the upper hull, and attached it to the lower. I also played with the photo-etch grille, and let me tell you... @*%*&^#!!! First time I've EVER used photo-etch, wasn't the most enjoyable thing I've done. I've built a few models (never finished) but never once used it. What do ya'll think?
The sprues full of track pieces keep staring at me from the corner of their box, they frighten me.
Minnesota, United States
Joined: March 04, 2003
KitMaker: 4,630 posts
Armorama: 4,498 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 26, 2011 - 09:51 AM UTC
1. You can check out this thread for some helpful hints:
http://armorama.kitmaker.net/forums/154259&page=2 2. You can anneal the PE pieces to make them easier to use. This involves heating them up, usually with a match or lighter, but being VERY careful not to burn yourself, set yourself or your workbench on fire, and don't burn or melt through the PE piece. Just quickly and carefully heat it up to make it more bendable. And did I say be careful?
Ex-34th ID MNANG - 13F and 63D
"Fire For Effect."
North Carolina, United States
Joined: June 06, 2006
KitMaker: 4,691 posts
Armorama: 3,509 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 26, 2011 - 09:51 AM UTC
Really cool build,I like the chewed up road wheels.Don,t worry about those magic tracks,the T-34 is probably the easiest tank for magic tracks to be used.you can do it !!
Ontario, Canada
Joined: January 12, 2011
KitMaker: 219 posts
Armorama: 158 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 26, 2011 - 11:00 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I absolutely agree with Mike, never mind and carry on.
I'm sure you'll do a very good job.(and actually you've been doing )
Thanks! Honestly, I only personally know one other modeler and my wife isn't interested lol so all the encouragement is greatly appreciated!
Quoted Text
Really cool build,I like the chewed up road wheels.Don,t worry about those magic tracks,the T-34 is probably the easiest tank for magic tracks to be used.you can do it !!
Thanks again! lol They look daunting, I'm sure I'll tame them one of these days.
Florida, United States
Joined: March 30, 2006
KitMaker: 3,736 posts
Armorama: 3,697 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 26, 2011 - 11:27 AM UTC
Unfortunately, the etched grill goes on top of the frame, not underneath. Don't know why DML molded bolt detail on the frame surround, since the screen frame will have to fit flush, meaning the plastic part must be sanded down. On real T-34's, the screening and its frame is not an inch below the cowling, it's on top. Do a search for preserved vehicles and you will see what I mean (Aberdeen used to have a Model 1941 on display, though the museum collection is now being relocated).
The four vertical ribs on the hull sides are for mounting the rectangular fuel cells (inherited from the BT-7 tank--later T-34's used drums). If your tank had these fuel cells, all fine and well. If your tank did not, you should trim the ribs off and sand the area smooth.
Ontario, Canada
Joined: January 12, 2011
KitMaker: 219 posts
Armorama: 158 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 26, 2011 - 11:56 AM UTC
To be honest, I had started to think it looked wrong. Also, the directions say to glue it from underneath so... thanks Dragon. Well I'll do my best to remove it but I guess I might be using the plastic piece, at least I got some experience with PE.
*big sighhhhhhhh*
EDIT: I got the PE unattached to the bottom, and now I'm having the same problem I believe someone else on the forums had. The PE is too long to fit on top of the opening without showing some plastic from underneath. Cut the PE or shave the plastic? Orrrr say screw it (at least it looked good, just wrong position) and use the molded plastic piece?
I am trying not to get discouraged! It is but a minor speed-bump!
Ontario, Canada
Joined: January 12, 2011
KitMaker: 219 posts
Armorama: 158 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 27, 2011 - 01:52 AM UTC
I got the grille reattached, IMHO doesn't look too bad!
This one's a little blurry but you can see a little gap under the PE. I'm not getting hung up on things this time around, its on there, and it'll do. Added to the wear the road tires have, I might bend the PE in a little in a spot or two for wear.
EDIT: I actually removed this piece a 2nd time and sanded it completely down, glued it, and the way it looks now is the way its staying(only slightly better than above). On to better things.
Milano, Italy
Joined: July 13, 2010
KitMaker: 3,845 posts
Armorama: 3,543 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 27, 2011 - 02:11 AM UTC
Well done Jaredt!
My first attempts with PE were a lot worse than yours and also now i can't say that i like a lot working with them
So let's follow the very useful link that Jacques done it and look also there for other tips
http://hawkeyes-squawkbox.com/2009/01/09/modeling-with-photo-etched-parts/http://www.italianhorses.net/Tutorials/Photoetch/pe.htmThe grill mistake that you did can teach you an important advise in my humble opinion. Before mounting a detail you should always look at your reference pics. Sometime it could be very useful working with reference pics on the workbench
Anyway, congrats, i'm waiting for your process
Regards
...well in my opinion T-55 isn' t just a tank. Actually it is THE TANK...
Ontario, Canada
Joined: January 12, 2011
KitMaker: 219 posts
Armorama: 158 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 27, 2011 - 02:21 AM UTC
Thanks so much. I know this build might be a little hard to watch but I really appreciate all the input. You're my teachers thus far, as well as myself, and I'm not really worried about anything yet.
I know Jacques said the PE is too long, and had modified it to fit, however, I am not at the skill level to be doing such a modification. I will leave the PE as is, and continue...(I guess... *sigh*).
I have a giant cork board/dry erase board that I should be putting up for reference photos but there's just no room yet.
Hopefully I'll get some building done today, there's many small, tedious pieces to go on... yay!
Milano, Italy
Joined: July 13, 2010
KitMaker: 3,845 posts
Armorama: 3,543 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 27, 2011 - 02:28 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Thanks so much. I know this build might be a little hard to watch but I really appreciate all the input. You're my teachers thus far, as well as myself, and I'm not really worried about anything yet.
Jaredt I don't considere me as a teacher, absolutely.
Also now I've been learning a lot of things about this hobby.
i'm just glad to tell'you something that I've already done it....and the first time which I did I said a lot of ...
Cheers and have fun
...well in my opinion T-55 isn' t just a tank. Actually it is THE TANK...
Texas, United States
Joined: December 14, 2009
KitMaker: 48 posts
Armorama: 41 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 27, 2011 - 03:16 AM UTC
A warning about PE:
Before you decide to use PE, ensure that you are getting a benefit from it. Take a look at the reference photos you might have and see how the part affects the look you are going for. Believe it or not, sometimes the plastic kit part is better.
Also, there are numerous companies that make PE parts sheets for various kits. Some are more accurate than others in scale and appearance so check your resources.
Im still new to getting back into this hobby after a bunch of years away and PE was totally alien to me when I started up again. I had a Dragon PZ IV that I was building and wanted to use the PE mudflaps with hinges and the cool rod that goes through them. I went to all the work to get it right and it looked great in my opinion, but then I really looked at the photos of real PZ IV's and noticed that what I had made (using Eduard PE at $30 a package) was completely, wholly inaccurate and looked nothing like reality. I ended up using the plastic kit parts as those were accurate to reality.
Youre doing great with the T34 so far and dont sweat the wheel damage or anything else you want to do with your kit. The Russians were notorious for abuse of equipment and their equipment was not pretty, clean or super designed like the Germans. Much of the weathering and other enhancements will be guided by your own personal taste as much as anything else and always use reference photos to see how it was. Another trick I was told a long time ago was to look at construction equipment to see how mud, scratches, dents and other cosmetic things actually look and to get an idea or two from that. Good luck with everything.
Steve
Ontario, Canada
Joined: January 12, 2011
KitMaker: 219 posts
Armorama: 158 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 27, 2011 - 03:58 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Before you decide to use PE, ensure that you are getting a benefit from it...
...Another trick I was told a long time ago was to look at construction equipment to see how mud, scratches, dents and other cosmetic things actually look and to get an idea or two from that...
I'm using the PE almost JUST to use it. I know it may be "too long" or at least longer than reference photos may suggest it be but this is the FIRST time I've tried PE and am not worrying about accuracy etc just yet. I have another thread elsewhere about a Hummel project I'd like to do and for sure I will be sticking to reference photos for that(it's sitting up on the closet shelf just waiting to be opened
).
And actually just yesterday I went for a stroll around Toronto and got some cool pictures of construction equipment, rusty trailers, scratched cranes, etc etc. and it was fun.
Quoted Text
...The Russians were notorious for abuse of equipment and their equipment was not pretty, clean or super designed like the Germans.
This is also why I'm not too worried about it thus far. A minor bend or the corner sticking up a little isn't really a big problem to me. Its basically my first REAL model; I've been reading about techniques for months now and think I have a decent handle on most things I need right now. Plus there's always weathering/stowage items that I can use to my advantage to fix/hide some minor mistakes;).
