Thanks for checking in on this Gary and Eric.

Gary, This is my first time using Panda tracks, I wanted to try a set. So far, the links you see in the pic wasn't that hard to work with, But I have a bunch of end conectors to glue on. This might be dificult, lol

It won't be difficult but it WILL take you some time. Looking good so far though. Can't wait to see paint and especially markings.

Hey Don,

Thanks for checking in!

The end connectors might be difficult with my eye sight, lol

Looking good

I decided to play around with the tracks and see how they where going to be to assemble. Well, They are going to be slow going, LOL. Out of what you see in the pics, I have already glued one “duckbill” on upside down, and tweezer launched 4 more. I was lucky to find all 4 as I figure I only have 8 extra duckbills to work with, so now I’m down to 7 extra.

Another problem is that Tamiya’s extra thin cement attacks the plastic on the end connectors and ate tiny holes in them. So far I haven’t seen this problem with Testors liquid cement.

I’m just going to have to go slow and be very careful not to launch any more parts into a black hole.

Guys, help me out here...

How are the Panda tracks any more time consuming than the old AFV Club tracks? Clean up seems basically the same. I can see duckbills being a pain.

As far as glue types, at least on AFV club tracks (Sherman, Stuart, etc), I've had success using Micro Mark Liquid Tape. It's a white glue that stays tacky. I just put a little on the pins, let it dry and get tacky, and then push on the end connectors. The tackiness keeps them together, while still allowing them to be flexible to mold them around the suspension/idlers/drive sprockets.

Hey Jesse,

Please forgive any typing errors as I'm replying from my cell phone.

I have never used the AFV tracks before so I can't comment on them.

The difficult part here is cleaning up and gluing the duckbills onto the end connectors. If the duckbills are not needed, then the panda tracks would be pretty straight forward.

So far, I haven't used any kind of adhesive on the track pad pins. They seam like a good snug fit. If they start falling apart on me then I will get the micro mark stuff you suggest. The tracks will be fully workable once completed.

I hope this a little more clear. Thanks for checking in.

John

Not a lot done in the last couple of weeks except working on the tracks. I have about half of one side completed.

I received my new brass aerial mounts yesterday from Poland, along with a Eureka XXL tow cable for it. I installed the aerial mount, looks much much better than the kit part. I also placed the Archer casting marks for Cobra King. And made the step bars from brass sheet at the front tow lugs.

I should be getting a coat of paint on this some time this week if all goes well. I’m dieing to get the Archer transfers installed.













Until next time and thanks for looking

Hey John,

Looking good bro! the aerial is sweet as is the casting no.'s

Lets see some PAINT!!!

Gary

That's one good looking Sherman in progress...

Thanks Gary!!

Paint will be on soon (finally) I just want to make shure I have it all readdy. I need to re install the one PE guard I knocked off, and found one small seam that needs a little atention.

Getting all the loose parts stuck on sticks so the paint can start flying.

Thanks Jesse

John,

Great to see some progress on this build. IT's looking very good. I really like the cast texture and casting symbol work you have done. Excellent!

Hey Guys, Thanks for looking in on me.

Small update.

The base coat was a mixture of Model Master Olive Drab and Model Master flat black. No real formula, I just mixed until I liked the shade.

After this dried for about 24 hours, I misted on a thin coat of Model Master Olive Drab trying to build up the color in the center of panels and such to break it up a bit.

Also included is a close up of the texturing on the turret, and look how well those Archer casting numbers look under the paint!

Hey John,

Dude, i love the base color. The texture on the turret is very nice with the paint on. Great job John!

Gary

Thanks Gary!!!!

Looking good. I like the shade of OD.

Next Sherman I build, I'm going to try to put down the base coat before I mount the bogies. I always seem to miss a spot around/under/behind them.

Hey Jesse, Thanks,

I know what you mean, I almost left the bogies off on this one, but decided to go ahaed and glue em on. For me, the most time consuming part of the base coat is hitting all the angles to get good coverage around the bogies. So far I don't see any areas I missed...........Yet.LOL

Hiya John,

Looks really good with a coat of paint on it!. I'm looking forward to seeing the Archer decals.

I noticed you did not include any images of or mention primer. Did you skip this and go right to paint? If not, I'm curious to know what you used. I was set on using the Vallejo acrylic primer but got nudged into wanting to try the rattle-can Tamiya primer instead. A couple of folks have mentioned that the Vallejo primer is rather fragile since it doesn't actually have any solvent to "bite" into the plastic. Others have said it works great if you do a good job washing the model first. I have both in my possession and am still a couple build sessions away from spraying so I'm curious to know what your preference is.

Keep up the good work.

Hi Don,

I am in the camp of negative results with Vallejo Grey primer no.74601. I am a die hard Tamiya user, primer and paint. Ive never had a single bad issue with the Tamiya primer. I airbrush the primer. Anyway, After all the hype i decided to try the Vallejo primer and i was out of my usual Primer. It did not do any thing as adverised. It doesnt spray well on several different psi settings. I had a gentlemen tell me to add liquitex flo aid, and i did. it helped a bit but still wasnt right. Once dry i had to sand a couple areas and it imediately started to peel off. I used a fine wet/dry sand paper to try and feather the edges to no avail, it was worse. I always clean every model with 90% iso alcohol and sand areas that are practical. and it just didnt deliver the goods for me. I asked in another forum if i may have got a bad batch but no one could say. My nephew tried it and had the exact same issue. I for one can not recomend this primer and ill never srtray from my tried and true Tamiya surface primer. that stuff bites to the plastic like a alligator! I use Lacquer thinner in the primer and love it.

Well Don, i went on a bit of a rant, hope John dont mind. But i feelt like you should have another side of the Vallejo debate. Hope it helps man. I got a big bottle of Vallejo primer if any one wants it. ill give it away!

Thanks for letting me spout of John!

Gary

Hi Don,

Thanks for checking in. I didn’t prime the model, I went straight for paint. I have never used primer. I always wash every thing real good to remove oil and dust before I paint. Plus I’m still and enamels user, so I think the enamels bite into the plastic. I have never really had any problems to speak of. The only time I use primer is when I’m going to brush paint a figure, and I use automotive rattle can primer for that.

Gary,

No problem on the rant dude. I’ll know to stay clear of the vallejo primer if and when I do decide to use a primer. I thank you for that bit of information!

To throw my 2 cents in... as another Tamiya acrylics user...

I only prime metal barrels and other large metal/resin items. Plastic goes directly to paint. Haven't run into a problem yet. Then again, I also shy away from some of the 'greasier' kits, like sold older kits out of eastern Europe. I would definitely clean and prime those.

Well, not to hijack John's thread even more, but I do appreciate the comments about the Vallejo primer. Part of me really wants to be done with thinners and solvents, hence the attraction to water-based paints and primers. But there's something to be said about the tried and true methods as well. Ultimately we all want a good result so I may have to stick with what I know will work. For me it's always been rattle-can primers, even though I've never used the Tamiya brand specifically. I'll save the Vallejo for priming figs.

Anyway, John, thanks for clarifying your method and thanks to Gary and Jesse for the insight on the Vallejo.

Hey Guys,

Don’t worry about hijacking my thread, this is all important stuff we’re discussing here.

Even though I don’t use primer, I may use it one day if I want to achieve a cretin effect in my finish. And this discussion has given me some good information if and when I go that rout.

Hi John,

Thanks Bro! Just giving out my experince with that product. I was vaery dissapointed.

Really the main reason i prime is to check for mistakes and to better see missed seems and the like.

John, Useing the enamels, how long do you have to wait to handel the model and or aplly decals/transfers and the like.?

Thanks John!
Gary