John,

Can you tell us how you did your casting texture on the kit?


I'll weigh in on the primer debate...not really a fan of the new Vallejo primer...I can't seem to get it spray right (IMO), even after thinning it and adding acrylic slo-dry to it. I really like the Tamiya spray primer in the rattle can (both grey and white) or using Mr Surfacer 1200 from the bottle thinned with lacquer thinner.

I haven't totally written off Vallejo primer yet...I need to experiment with it some more...I just got their IJA/IJN primer colors to try out.

Hey Scott, I also had a teribble time cleaning out my airbrush after useing that stuff. Did you as well?

When my hobby shop is out of Tamiya surface primer in the bottle, i have purchased the Tamiya rattle can grey primer and decanted into a bottle and thinned it a bit more with yellow top thinner and i work better than the bottled stuff, which is awesome in its own.

Gary

Hey Gary,

That’s a good reason to prime, shows any imperfections. I may look into that on Future builds.


As for the enamels, They remain soft for a very long time. If you handle it a lot in the same spot, paint can wear off. However you can avoid this by giving it a clear coat. I have clear coated with in 24 hours and never had a problem. I normally let it cure for a while before I continue with any further work. The one thing that I like about enamels is they are what I learned my skills with. I do like the brushability and blending ability while brush painting.

However, I do have a drawer full of Tamiya paints to try out one of these days.

I hope this all makes sense, because if it doesn’t, its because I’m drunk, lol

Hi Scott, Thanks for looking in.

I have a SBS on the cast texture in this thread. Please have a look.

http://modelerssocialclub.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=armor&action=display&thread=301

Ok John, im gonna need you to to count backwards from 100.

Now, how many fingers am i holding up?...........

Now, walk a strait line, one foot in front of the other without stumbling.

OK YOU PASS!!!

Thanks for the info on the enamels bro. Have another one my brother!

Gary

Thank you all for the kind words!

Markings are on! I had a few little hiccups here and there, but I think I can save them.

Next on the list is some detail painting before I clear cote it.

John,

Decals look great. I don't see an issue with them at all.
BTW how are the sponson decals done. Is the white/blue/yellow decals on the front half of the sponson all one piece and the smaller yellow ones separate?

Thanks Dave,

The entire left side sponson is one peice. The right side is broken down into smaller sections.

Hey John,

I am greatly impressed with the casting marks on your tank. I looked at the tutorial post on the other site you linked to, and I must admit, I'm STILL having trouble understanding your technique. When you wrote that you 'float' the cardboard over the softened plastic, what exactly do you mean? I gather you mean you rest the cardboard piece on top of the plastic, but then you do exactly what to it? Press on it? If you press, how, where and with what? In the center, with a fingernail, twisting while pushing, what? Sorry for being dense, but your work is fantastic, and I'd like to attempt duplicating it. Thank you, sir!

Curt, if I understand correctly what John is saying, you apply the bottled Testors liquid cement liberally to the area you want to work on. This will chemically "heat up" and soften the plastic's surface in that area. Then you gently dab the cardboard against the softened plastic surface using a slight twisting motion each time you dab, and use this technique to blend the whole area together.

John, correct me if I'm wrong here.

Yes, Jeremy is correct. Get the plastic soft with the cement. Then dab it with the cardboard while applying pressure with your finger. Use slight twisting motions, don’t pull the cardboard in straight lines or else it will look un realistic. It’s best to try it on some scrap parts first before going straight to the model.

Gloss coat is on to seal the markings and prep it for weathering.

Just seen this build but will be back for updates. Looking forward to seeing your weathering technique....

John...

Looking at the strips along the sides where the dust shields would have bolted on... seems like the center section is flipped left and right.

Am I seeing things?

Hey Jessie,

I had to go back and take a real close look, I finally see what your talking about.

I don't see how flipping them would make a deference, They would still fit the same. Funny thing is I never noticed it until you said something.

John,

Nice to see the next step here. Decals look great.




I think maybe the real issue is that the center sections are upside down. Bolt holes are at the top of the center strips and at the bottom of the strips on the front and back pieces. Actually, upon closer inspection, I think you have them all on backwards. The ones on the back should be at the front...check the slope of the leading edge. Sorry to point that out.

Thanks for checking in Don,

No, the front and rear brackets are installed correctly (according to the instructions) they are different lengths from each other and there are locating marks on the hull. It’s possible I installed the center sections upside down, but I thought they only fit one way.

It’s too late to worry about it now. I’ll just have to live with it.

A small update,

Pin wash and flat coat.

Here is a test shot to see how the weathering will look in pictures.

I’m pretty happy with the left hull side. Maybe a few small tweaks. Still have a lot to do to the suspension and turret.

Great information on your 'process' and SBS Big-John.

Subscribed.

I’m getting close fellas, real close.

Still a little to do, need to let paint dry for a while. Here are a couple of sneak peeks. One I get er done, I’ll take a bunch of pics on a white background.

Looks fantastic John! What did you use for weathering...oils? AK Effects? MIG products? Pastels" Really got a nice dusty look going there. Can't wait to see "final' shots although it looks pretty darn complete right now!

Hey Don! Thanks for dropping in!

Most of the weathering was done with AK effects. A lot of back and forth layers until I was happy with the way it looked. Even the track and tow cables where weathered with AK. The track and running gear got a dusting of mig pigment, and then stumped with white spirits. If you want more specifics, feel free to send me a PM and I’ll try to explain it all.

Man-oh-Man!!! Brother John that is one brilliant Shermie right there. Absolutely stunning my friend! Now that looks like the color pics of shermans ive seen from WWII. Buddy....you knocked this one out tha park!!!

Gary

Thank you brother Gary!!! Glad you like it. I kinda got nervous about half way throgh the weathering. Thought it was gonna go south on me. But I'm really pleased at how it turned out.

This is fantastic John. I really like the weathering on it. Did I mention it's fantastic. Fantastic!