From base to top, it usually takes me twelve layers at least. I include the filters and pre-shading, in this figure.

From base to top, it usually takes me twelve layers at least. I include the filters and pre-shading, in this figure.

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From base to top, it usually takes me twelve layers at least. I include the filters and pre-shading, in this figure.

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I actually 'finish' stuff, and I typically have ~4 or 5 layers... 12 seems ridiculous.

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From base to top, it usually takes me twelve layers at least. I include the filters and pre-shading, in this figure.

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I actually 'finish' stuff, and I typically have ~4 or 5 layers... 12 seems ridiculous.

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Jesse, if Matt's counting sealing each coat, it's more like 6 coats max start to finish.
Joel

I'll have to try MeanGreen. I'm simply not able to master the hairspray technique and the salt method has obvious limitations.

Jesse, I used to do exactly the same thing, and then I started playing with heavy washes and using the removal process to change shade and tint. It usually works a whole lot better than this example. If photobucket will cooperate and quit locking up my laptop, I'll post a pic of a Sherman and a KT that I had much more success with.....


The Tiger is intentionally left dirty, that's the look I wanted. The Sherman was depicted more dusty and faded.
And BTW, the M51 is taking a bath in MeanGreen right now...

I want this one to look freshly painted, but Dusty and I wasn't feeling good about where it was going. I'll probably get paint back on it tomorrow.

I'm probably going to do something different this time, more along the lines of what is more conventional in the way of washes. It's back in tan, after a go-over with a jeweler's pick to dig paint out of cracks, gaps, panel lines, etc. I'm out of town for a while so the Tamiya tan will be good and dry before it gets a wash. Definitely no more PollyScale dark brown...
Back in tan:

Joel, I'm not swold on the MeanGreen. I tried it at 20/1 and 10/1, didn't do much other than cause very small "bubbles", but it didn't hurt the tarps I amde from Aves, so that's a good thing. I actually got the most lifting action from good old warm water. Of course, that may be because the model soaked in MeanGreen for something like 36 hours first.

From base to top, it usually takes me twelve layers at least. I include the filters and pre-shading, in this figure.

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From base to top, it usually takes me twelve layers at least. I include the filters and pre-shading, in this figure.

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I actually 'finish' stuff, and I typically have ~4 or 5 layers... 12 seems ridiculous.

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Jesse, if Matt's counting sealing each coat, it's more like 6 coats max start to finish.
Joel

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I know. Sealing every coat is ridiculous. I don't have the patience for that.

Jesse, if you don't seal between filters and then washes, don't you just remove much of the previous layer using a brush? Using Testors Dullcoat between layers is quick and easy. It dries in a few min, and I usually apply the next layer in 10 min.

Being fairly new to armor, this is my usual procedure:
base paint
airbrush paint modulation for fading, etc.
seal with Future
decal
Seal with future
Filter,usually a 2nd coat.
Seal with Dullcoat
pin washes
Dot washes
chipping, rust, dry brushing
seal with Dullcoat
airbrush earth, mud effects from tracks to upper side of hull feathered and uneven.
Air brush dust from top of turret to side of hull.
Seal with Dullcoat.
Display case

Being a life long aircraft modeler, I feel much more at home with a airbrush doing weathering then with a paint brush.
Joel

paint/camo/fade
future
decals
future
weathering
clear flat

I use a different base for weathering than my camo, so it won't burn through.

Using hairspray, I can't get through the paint or I go at it too aggressively and expose the base coat.
I include the filters, in my layers. I also spray very thin coats, to amplify the preshading. So, the base coat is about three layers. Then, there is the camo. The number of layers depends on how complicated the camo pattern is. I usually build up three coats, per color. I uaually apply four different filters, to accent sun/wind/dust damage. Painting is my favorite stage of the build. And, yes, I have a great deal of patience. Not working, means I have more of the day to devote to building and painting.

Using hairspray, I can't get through the paint or I go at it too aggressively and expose the base coat.
I include the filters, in my layers. I also spray very thin coats, to amplify the preshading. So, the base coat is about three layers. Then, there is the camo. The number of layers depends on how complicated the camo pattern is. I usually build up three coats, per color. I uaually apply four different filters, to accent sun/wind/dust damage. Painting is my favorite stage of the build. And, yes, I have a great deal of patience. Not working, means I have more of the day to devote to building and painting.

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Using hairspray, I can't get through the paint or I go at it too aggressively and expose the base coat.
I include the filters, in my layers. I also spray very thin coats, to amplify the preshading. So, the base coat is about three layers. Then, there is the camo. The number of layers depends on how complicated the camo pattern is. I usually build up three coats, per color. I uaually apply four different filters, to accent sun/wind/dust damage. Painting is my favorite stage of the build. And, yes, I have a great deal of patience. Not working, means I have more of the day to devote to building and painting.

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When chipping the goal is to go back to the base not the primer, isnt it? just make sure the base or the coat you want to go back to is enamel. then HS then acrylics. then dont wait too long. i start chipping as soon as the last color is applied and blow dried. What are you using for chipping? Do you use chipping fluid? Using cheap brushes that are cut to the nub and rubbing alcohol mixed with water you can get great results.

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Using hairspray, I can't get through the paint or I go at it too aggressively and expose the base coat.
I include the filters, in my layers. I also spray very thin coats, to amplify the preshading. So, the base coat is about three layers. Then, there is the camo. The number of layers depends on how complicated the camo pattern is. I usually build up three coats, per color. I uaually apply four different filters, to accent sun/wind/dust damage. Painting is my favorite stage of the build. And, yes, I have a great deal of patience. Not working, means I have more of the day to devote to building and painting.

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When chipping the goal is to go back to the base not the primer, isnt it? just make sure the base or the coat you want to go back to is enamel. then HS then acrylics. then dont wait too long. i start chipping as soon as the last color is applied and blow dried. What are you using for chipping? Do you use chipping fluid? Using cheap brushes that are cut to the nub and rubbing alcohol mixed with water you can get great results.

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I believe I may have been using an acrylic primer. Within a brush stroke of the base, the primer went away.