Did a little more research for the drivers area of the panzer II. I'm rather disappointed that I didn't find this originally, but I came across a much more complete gallery of photos, the same ones I was already working with. I've got closer to forty photos compared to my original ten that show plenty more detail I can use for my Bison.
Planning on spending the rest of the night scratching all the supports, braces and missing details and should add some photos tomorrow.
Campaigns
Where Armorama group builds can be discussed, organized, and updates posted.
Where Armorama group builds can be discussed, organized, and updates posted.
Hosted by Darren Baker, Richard S.
Big Guns Campaign
Tiger_213
Joined: August 10, 2012
KitMaker: 1,510 posts
Armorama: 1,443 posts
Posted: Tuesday, February 11, 2014 - 02:25 PM UTC
Nito74
Joined: March 04, 2008
KitMaker: 5,386 posts
Armorama: 4,727 posts
Posted: Thursday, February 13, 2014 - 12:56 PM UTC
Working on the some rusted parts
Also weathering the interior before getting the other track done
Also weathering the interior before getting the other track done
Tiger_213
Joined: August 10, 2012
KitMaker: 1,510 posts
Armorama: 1,443 posts
Posted: Thursday, February 13, 2014 - 01:18 PM UTC
The interior looks good; worn, but not to much.
Nokturnal
Joined: January 11, 2013
KitMaker: 65 posts
Armorama: 64 posts
Posted: Thursday, February 13, 2014 - 08:37 PM UTC
Lucas - Great work mate.
Very nice to see an indepth description of how you applied the various weathering products too.
As a new comer to the hobby, and complete novice with weathering it's great to see those sort of details.
I haven't done anymore on my Jagdtiger yet, but I recently dug out the heavy muddy set I got a while back and I've got some test subjects to try it out on!
With no airbrush I'm not entirely sure how to replicate the splatter effect without making a huge mess though...But it'll be fun to try!
A bit late I realise but Lucas, did you take a look at AFV Club's recent camo net? It is apparently quite durable, able to be stretched and such..
Very nice to see an indepth description of how you applied the various weathering products too.
As a new comer to the hobby, and complete novice with weathering it's great to see those sort of details.
I haven't done anymore on my Jagdtiger yet, but I recently dug out the heavy muddy set I got a while back and I've got some test subjects to try it out on!
With no airbrush I'm not entirely sure how to replicate the splatter effect without making a huge mess though...But it'll be fun to try!
A bit late I realise but Lucas, did you take a look at AFV Club's recent camo net? It is apparently quite durable, able to be stretched and such..
roteck
Joined: January 12, 2004
KitMaker: 274 posts
Armorama: 159 posts
Posted: Friday, February 14, 2014 - 08:38 AM UTC
Love that interior John, nicely done!
Here is a little update on my T-80U.
This is turning out to be a lesson in patience!!! I don't know what's wrong with me these days, but I'm doing all kind of small mistakes that are bit difficult to correct... like using the oil dot technique over a flat base...
But in the end, it's still coming along nicely and I can't wait to finish it! The next pictures I'll post will most likely be from the finished model, ready to go in the living room display case for all to see!!!
Cheers,
Christian
Here is a little update on my T-80U.
This is turning out to be a lesson in patience!!! I don't know what's wrong with me these days, but I'm doing all kind of small mistakes that are bit difficult to correct... like using the oil dot technique over a flat base...
But in the end, it's still coming along nicely and I can't wait to finish it! The next pictures I'll post will most likely be from the finished model, ready to go in the living room display case for all to see!!!
Cheers,
Christian
DeskJockey
Joined: July 17, 2006
KitMaker: 1,558 posts
Armorama: 1,159 posts
Posted: Friday, February 14, 2014 - 02:02 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Lucas - Great work mate.
Very nice to see an indepth description of how you applied the various weathering products too.
As a new comer to the hobby, and complete novice with weathering it's great to see those sort of details.
I haven't done anymore on my Jagdtiger yet, but I recently dug out the heavy muddy set I got a while back and I've got some test subjects to try it out on!
With no airbrush I'm not entirely sure how to replicate the splatter effect without making a huge mess though...But it'll be fun to try!
A bit late I realise but Lucas, did you take a look at AFV Club's recent camo net? It is apparently quite durable, able to be stretched and such..
Thanks, Alex. For the splattering effect, load some of the product you want to splatter on a flat brush (a small one works best), then stroke the brush against a toothpick (cocktail stick). I picked up that trick in a magazine somewhere and just used it on my build a couple of days ago. I'll be posting an update later tonight.
As for the AFV Club net, it does look intriguing. I used what I had on hand, but I may go ahead and buy the AFV Club net to see how well it works.
DeskJockey
Joined: July 17, 2006
KitMaker: 1,558 posts
Armorama: 1,159 posts
Posted: Friday, February 14, 2014 - 02:09 PM UTC
Quoted Text
This is turning out to be a lesson in patience!!! I don't know what's wrong with me these days, but I'm doing all kind of small mistakes that are bit difficult to correct... like using the oil dot technique over a flat base...
But in the end, it's still coming along nicely and I can't wait to finish it! The next pictures I'll post will most likely be from the finished model, ready to go in the living room display case for all to see!!!
Cheers,
Christian
Christian--the oil dot technique actually works on a flat base. You can use it on a gloss or satin base, too, but it works best on either a satin or flat base, in my experience. Here's a link to a build where I used it on a flat base to what I think are good results.
https://armorama.kitmaker.net/forums/146932#1227890
DeskJockey
Joined: July 17, 2006
KitMaker: 1,558 posts
Armorama: 1,159 posts
Posted: Friday, February 14, 2014 - 02:32 PM UTC
Well, I've nearly reached the finish line. We were snowed in on Thursday, so I got extra time to work on the M109. I weathered the exhaust with black pigments, splattered some dried mud on the rear of the hull, put on the wheels and tracks, chipped the paint lightly, added straps to the stowage on the top of the turret (thanks, Paul!) and dusted the horizontal surfaces of hull and turret. Oh, and I added a carbon fiber antenna from Accurate Armor. Now all that remains is to attach the M109 to the base!
Here's a shot of the tracks while they are being glued down. I placed superglue on the top of the roadwheels and pressed the track down on them to make sure it would stay firmly in place. I used foam earplugs to keep the track in the correct position while the glue set.
In these shots, you can see the straps I added to the stowage using lead foil.
For the exhaust, I masked the area around it, then put on black pigments and fixed them with Tamiya X-20 thinner. I then added an oily stain running down below it using AK's Engine Grime. Here's what it looks like.
I couldn't resist putting the hull and turret together for pictures, so here are the first ones of the whole howitzer put together:
I'll take more pictures with a neutral background later tonight and post them tomorrow, at which point I will call this one done, as far as the campaign goes. Let me know what you think!
Here's a shot of the tracks while they are being glued down. I placed superglue on the top of the roadwheels and pressed the track down on them to make sure it would stay firmly in place. I used foam earplugs to keep the track in the correct position while the glue set.
In these shots, you can see the straps I added to the stowage using lead foil.
For the exhaust, I masked the area around it, then put on black pigments and fixed them with Tamiya X-20 thinner. I then added an oily stain running down below it using AK's Engine Grime. Here's what it looks like.
I couldn't resist putting the hull and turret together for pictures, so here are the first ones of the whole howitzer put together:
I'll take more pictures with a neutral background later tonight and post them tomorrow, at which point I will call this one done, as far as the campaign goes. Let me know what you think!
Petro
Joined: November 02, 2003
KitMaker: 984 posts
Armorama: 846 posts
Posted: Friday, February 14, 2014 - 04:23 PM UTC
Very nice build Lucas.
roteck
Joined: January 12, 2004
KitMaker: 274 posts
Armorama: 159 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 15, 2014 - 01:14 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted Text
This is turning out to be a lesson in patience!!! I don't know what's wrong with me these days, but I'm doing all kind of small mistakes that are bit difficult to correct... like using the oil dot technique over a flat base...
But in the end, it's still coming along nicely and I can't wait to finish it! The next pictures I'll post will most likely be from the finished model, ready to go in the living room display case for all to see!!!
Cheers,
Christian
Christian--the oil dot technique actually works on a flat base. You can use it on a gloss or satin base, too, but it works best on either a satin or flat base, in my experience. Here's a link to a build where I used it on a flat base to what I think are good results.
https://armorama.kitmaker.net/forums/146932#1227890
Lucas,
The problem is that over a flat base, if the pigment of the color you are using is too strong, it "tints" the area where it was applied and it becomes very difficult to remove properly blend, even after a minute or two of being applied. I was able to fix it with a very strong brush cleaner and manage to not damage the paint underneath in the process.
And by the way Lucas, I'm really liking your build so far, great work! :-)
Christian
kuman
Joined: March 26, 2006
KitMaker: 20 posts
Armorama: 18 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 15, 2014 - 02:09 AM UTC
My Dragon Karl Morser "Loki"..
My progress is as slow as a snail but i manage to get it done to the below....
Still a bit more plastics to glue before i can start priming it... hopefully enough time before the due date
still havent decide on the paint scheme..
oh and my build is a OOB build..
My progress is as slow as a snail but i manage to get it done to the below....
Still a bit more plastics to glue before i can start priming it... hopefully enough time before the due date
still havent decide on the paint scheme..
oh and my build is a OOB build..
DeskJockey
Joined: July 17, 2006
KitMaker: 1,558 posts
Armorama: 1,159 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 16, 2014 - 03:02 AM UTC
I'm calling this one done. Here are some pics of the finished model:
Let me know what you think!
Let me know what you think!
roteck
Joined: January 12, 2004
KitMaker: 274 posts
Armorama: 159 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 16, 2014 - 04:57 AM UTC
Very nice and clean build! Congrats!
Christian
Christian
Plasticat
Joined: September 03, 2003
KitMaker: 448 posts
Armorama: 245 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 16, 2014 - 11:33 AM UTC
That is one gorgeous 109!! Thanks for sharing the journey with us.
Tiger_213
Joined: August 10, 2012
KitMaker: 1,510 posts
Armorama: 1,443 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 16, 2014 - 03:04 PM UTC
More disappointment. When I started working on that interior I based the controls and framework off a standard panzer II. Good idea seeing as the Bison II was a widened Ausf. C. I dry fitted the upper hull, damn. My drivers compartment work didn't account for the wider hull, meaning for my driver to see he would have to lean to his left at a really stupid angle, so I fixed it. Then I had a huge gap between the transmission and the drivers controls. I figured I could add in a crew-built ammo rack; didn't like the way it looked, removed it and rebuilt it. Damn, again I have an issue. Now the gear selector and another lever are to far away from the driver, not that it matters as my new ammo rack blocks them. Now I have to add more linkages that connect the transmission and some form of extended levers.
I still have some of the linkages to add. I need to add some details around the inner side of the final drives and tweak a few of the details on my engine. Then I'll be done with the drivers compartment, I hope.
I still have some of the linkages to add. I need to add some details around the inner side of the final drives and tweak a few of the details on my engine. Then I'll be done with the drivers compartment, I hope.
roteck
Joined: January 12, 2004
KitMaker: 274 posts
Armorama: 159 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 16, 2014 - 04:24 PM UTC
Got her done yesterday... Some touch up needs to be done of course, but I call her done at 99.5%!
Here she is in all her glory! Any constructive criticism is very welcome!
Christian
P.S.: Unfortunately, I think she needs better tracks!!!
Here she is in all her glory! Any constructive criticism is very welcome!
Christian
P.S.: Unfortunately, I think she needs better tracks!!!
roteck
Joined: January 12, 2004
KitMaker: 274 posts
Armorama: 159 posts
Posted: Monday, February 17, 2014 - 02:35 AM UTC
Hummm... not sure what happened but here are the pictures! I can't edit my previous post so if an admin could delete it, I would appreciate!
Got her done yesterday... Some touch up needs to be done of course, but I call her done at 99.5%!
Here she is in all her glory! Any constructive criticism is very welcome!
Oh... and don't worry... you'll get to see her front end too... In due time!!! ;-)
Christian
P.S.: Unfortunately, I think she needs better tracks!!!
Got her done yesterday... Some touch up needs to be done of course, but I call her done at 99.5%!
Here she is in all her glory! Any constructive criticism is very welcome!
Oh... and don't worry... you'll get to see her front end too... In due time!!! ;-)
Christian
P.S.: Unfortunately, I think she needs better tracks!!!
DeskJockey
Joined: July 17, 2006
KitMaker: 1,558 posts
Armorama: 1,159 posts
Posted: Monday, February 17, 2014 - 06:10 AM UTC
Christian--your T-80U looks really good. I particularly like the way the mud came out.
roteck
Joined: January 12, 2004
KitMaker: 274 posts
Armorama: 159 posts
Posted: Monday, February 17, 2014 - 02:56 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Christian--your T-80U looks really good. I particularly like the way the mud came out.
Thanks Lucas... I tried a whole bunch of new techniques with this one... I just hope I'll be able to reproduce it! lol...
roteck
Joined: January 12, 2004
KitMaker: 274 posts
Armorama: 159 posts
Posted: Monday, February 17, 2014 - 02:58 PM UTC
Here some more... got around to glue the sight lens... reflective paper!
Cheers,
Christian
Cheers,
Christian
Tiger_213
Joined: August 10, 2012
KitMaker: 1,510 posts
Armorama: 1,443 posts
Posted: Monday, February 17, 2014 - 03:29 PM UTC
Christian, for whatever reason I think it looks more like a really well done braille scale kit than a /35th kit. Not that that's a a bad thing.
What did you do to get that 'wet' look with you mud?
What did you do to get that 'wet' look with you mud?
roteck
Joined: January 12, 2004
KitMaker: 274 posts
Armorama: 159 posts
Posted: Tuesday, February 18, 2014 - 10:03 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Christian, for whatever reason I think it looks more like a really well done braille scale kit than a /35th kit. Not that that's a a bad thing.
What did you do to get that 'wet' look with you mud?
Christopher, I don't take offense in your comment, not at all! This is probably due to the fact that I didn't use any PE on this kit and the scale appearance is probably lost because of that.
The "wet" look was achieved by mixing AK wet effect to my mud mix. You can pretty much get the same effect with any gloss coat really.
Christian
Tiger_213
Joined: August 10, 2012
KitMaker: 1,510 posts
Armorama: 1,443 posts
Posted: Tuesday, February 18, 2014 - 10:14 AM UTC
Ah, you don't see that effect used a lot. It's usually just coated in mud; looks really good.
roteck
Joined: January 12, 2004
KitMaker: 274 posts
Armorama: 159 posts
Posted: Tuesday, February 18, 2014 - 10:38 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Ah, you don't see that effect used a lot. It's usually just coated in mud; looks really good.
Thanks Christopher, but I have to give credit to Mig Jimenez and his excellent F.A.Q. book! :-)
Christian
Tiger_213
Joined: August 10, 2012
KitMaker: 1,510 posts
Armorama: 1,443 posts
Posted: Wednesday, February 19, 2014 - 12:16 PM UTC
Working on the suspension for my Bison II;
Of the twelve bogies, nine needed putty on the front/ outside, and all needed putty on the inside. Two are from a different spruce, which was from a different production run, maybe even from another company (this kit was remixed at least three times). They're a slightly different shade of grey and had a dried up yellow crust on them (I hope it was dried mould release agent!).
I may go out and buy Tamiya's PanzerII just for its roadwheels as the detail is way to soft on Ark's. But here's the big problem;
One is noticeably larger than the other, while Ark claims that the front-most bogie is a different part I couldn't tell the difference but somehow I got this odd, one-of-eleven bogie. It's special. And annoying.
EDIT: I sorted out the height issue with the bodies. Ark mislabeled the bogie parts (amongst other parts). The two bodies they claimed were different were actually pieces for the same side. The reason I only had one issue with the height is that I, only by luck, placed the bogie in the correct space on one side; which left me with that one 'odd' part.
Of the twelve bogies, nine needed putty on the front/ outside, and all needed putty on the inside. Two are from a different spruce, which was from a different production run, maybe even from another company (this kit was remixed at least three times). They're a slightly different shade of grey and had a dried up yellow crust on them (I hope it was dried mould release agent!).
I may go out and buy Tamiya's PanzerII just for its roadwheels as the detail is way to soft on Ark's. But here's the big problem;
One is noticeably larger than the other, while Ark claims that the front-most bogie is a different part I couldn't tell the difference but somehow I got this odd, one-of-eleven bogie. It's special. And annoying.
EDIT: I sorted out the height issue with the bodies. Ark mislabeled the bogie parts (amongst other parts). The two bodies they claimed were different were actually pieces for the same side. The reason I only had one issue with the height is that I, only by luck, placed the bogie in the correct space on one side; which left me with that one 'odd' part.
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