Craig I would not consider these bruses as one is designed for spraying your car rather than a model and the other is suction feed rather than gravity.

You say you want optimum results. As a newbie to airbrushing, there is a limit to how optimum your results will be, no matter which brush you get. Sure, starting with a good tool is important and will reduce some of the frustration, but you still need to get good at using it. Your ability is going to be the limiting factor for a while.

I'm really a bit confused with you wanting a spray gun.

An Iwata brush like the HP-CS, or HP-C+ or HP-CH hi-line will do everything you need in modelling, unless you are planning on building 1/6 scale tanks.

Good to see you looking at decent compressors. A quality air supply is a huge part of getting good results.

Ola Craig

If you still have not made up your mind yet on airbrushes might I make the choice even harder.

I have here a picture of my weapons of mass creation


The top 2 airbrushes are Revell Flex Masterclass airbrushes. In my opinion one of the best high quality starters airbrushes. It sprays super easy. Does not discriminate paint type. And is very tolerant to paint thickness as well. Trigger control is great. Above all it is very easy to clean. It is very hard to go wrong with that airbrush. The top one I have for over 12 years now and still sprays like the day I bought it. Plus it being Revell spare parts and service are great. The second Flex masterclass I actually bought secondhand as a supplier for spare parts for the first one but after an evening of cleaning that one was just as good as the first.

The black one in third place is a Badger Sotar 20/20. One of their top line models. Sprays brilliant great trigger control but more an item for somebody more experienced in airbrushing. Is harder to clean then the Revell's.

The red one on the Bottom is a Harder and Steenbeck Infinity Solo which also is a very good airbrush. I have not tested this particular airbrush as I received it only last week but I have tested the infinity in the event stand of an airbrush retailer here in the Netherlands and it works great. A bit harder to clean then the Flex Masterclass but not too much. Fantastic piece of kit.

In my opinion the Eclipse CS is about perfect as a first airbrush. It will do a great job for 95% of what you throw at it.
The second airbrush I would buy would be a dedicated detailer.
Only as a third airbrush I would consider a spray gun for larger surfaces. It is really only necessary for large surfaces like ships, or large scale cars, where you are looking for perfect results with gloss paint.
All respect to Mr Budzik, and I do agree in that spray guns have their place in painting large surfaces, but that investment isn't necessary for most of the armour and aircraft modellers.
I have a bunch of airbrushes myself, including a couple of spray gun types (Eclipse G3/G5 and RG3). If I only could keep three, the spray gun types wouldn't make it to the list. I would rather keep a pure detail gun, like one of my microns, an all-round like the Eclipse, and something with side feed, so I could chose different cups or bottles. I can always get a decent result, even on a large model with an Eclipse, but I could never use a large sprayer for small detail or weathering.

Craig, I agree with Magnus. Once again You will not be disappointed with the Eclipse HP CS for your first AB. It will literally do anything you want it to for modeling purposes. Its easy to clean & maintain, feels great in your hand, performs flawlessly, has the larger color cup W/lid which you will be glad you have. My Eclipse was my first AB purchase and it is the BEST investment i made to date.

Examples of the AB in action....my works
http://drmmtx.blogspot.com/2011/07/135-tiger-i-early-by-gary-boggs.html
http://drmmtx.blogspot.com/search/label/T-62
http://drmmtx.blogspot.com/2011/06/jagdtiger-by-gary-boggs.html
http://drmmtx.blogspot.com/search/label/Marder
http://drmmtx.blogspot.com/search/label/Staghound

All free hand with Eclipse Airbrush.

Gary

No need to apologize Craig....Just ask more questions!

Gary

Hi guy's..Thanks for all the input! I do understand what Paul is saying and I will probably acquire a small spray gun such as the RG-3 in the future but as many of you have said I'm a complete newbie to this airbrushing process and I'm going to have my hands full just using and acquiring the skills needed to use an airbrush in the first place. So using the advice that you guy's are putting out there and to reduce this feeling of being overwhelmed with this endeavor in the first place before I even have one in my hands I'm going to pull back and just go with the HP-CS 35mm. and the Iwata Eclipse Smart Jet IS 850 to start out with. I believe this will be more than sufficient to start with and free up my resources for all the other things I need to get going with this AFV modeling ie. Paint,primer,pigments and the host of other things one needs not to mention the model kits that I want to purchase!! So many choices so little time, I love it! I've decided to purchase the Meng Russian T90A main battle tank as my first project. Ive decided to go with the Vallejo Military kit 72 colors and thin to use in the airbrush and have the option to use the brush with this choice thus saving a little coin. It's $219.00 for that kit and should more than suffice to get me started. I've read for hours on the forums from this site and they have been so helpful!! There are many,many pro's and con's on this painting subject and thank goodness for that and has helped me deduce and come to the conclusion that this choice will work and be a good intro for me, I hope!!

I still have a million questions but theres time for them in the future. Right now I would just like your 2 cents on my above choices. I'm grateful for this site and the time you all take out to help me along my way!! It is a wonderful asset that we have in the use of the Internet to connect with others in a way that I could only dream of as a child!

Thanks Guy's!!...Craig

Hello guy's... I was hoping to get some feed back from my last post.. What do you think about the above mentioned compressor choice? It doesn't have a tank so I was wondering if anyone has experience with this model? Is a tank a big necessity or can one get good results for it's intended use in AFV modeling with out one? Just thought I pick your brains a little more.

Take care guy's and thanks.. Craig

Hiya Craig,

The Smart Jet compressor is one up from my Sprint Jet. Its also what my mentor uses (Smart Jet) and he's never had any probs at all. its better than mine in that when im not spraying, my Sprint Jet keeps running. His Smart Jet only runs while he is spraying, as soon as he stop spraying the Smart jet shuts off and when he begins spraying again it instantly kicks back on with no pressure loss. I think you will love it. I woulda bought the same Compressor but came up short cash wise when i made my purchase...hence the Sprint jet i have.

Hope that helps bro....you'll be fine.

Regards,
Gary

Thanks Gary!! I was hoping someone would post that uses or knows of this model compressor and how it performs.. This will save me some money for my paint purchasing needs and the scores of other necessities I will require..

On another note and I don't know if I should start another thread? Any modelers out there that have built models from the Meng company? Likes- dislikes? I've read a lot of reviews myself on this company and find mostly positive remarks. The Russian T90A main battle tank actually got very good reviews and will be my first kit but always nice to hear from someone that has built a kit from the company you have chosen and learn from their experience first hand!

Craig..

I would say that the extra cost for a compressor with a tank is worth the money. A tank will guarantee smoother air pressure and longer life, since the compressor get longer pauses to cool down, when you are running on the air in the tank. Also pick a compressor with enough capacity to run larger nozzle airbrushes. If you still have plans of buying a spray gun for large surfaces, you should plan ahead, and check the necessary capacity for it. Sometimes you can run a larger airbrush or spray gun for short sessions, by using the air in the tank. That's another reason for having a tank.

Check this link:
https://airbrushes.com/iwata_compressors.php#compatibility

Your Smart Jet isn't on it, but since the model above it, the smart jet pro, won't handle the RG-3, it might be a unwise choice. The 925 would probably be your best choice, if you want to go down the Iwata route.

Ok guy's took your comments and went looking for something other than whats offered in the Iwata line. I was just checking out a Sparmax TC-620X which has a 2.5 liter tank and dual piston compressor for around $300.00 I think I saw it the other day for 289.00 and also read somewhere that Iwata actually makes that line. Although I'm not absolutely sure on that note.

Anybody have one of these or experience with this company?

Craig.. Penny for your thoughts!

It's a nice compressor. Actually it is Sparmax that makes the Iwata line.
Maybe there's higher grade regulators and such on the Iwata branded ones, but I really doubt it.
The compressor itself is the same one installed in the high end Iwata compressors kits. I think it would fit your needs.

Craig, I don't want to sound impolite but brother you need to just take the plunge and get your hands dirty with a kit! You can ask for opinions and get a million variations, but none of them compare to personal experience! If money is an issue then maybe back away from a Meng kit and get something nice but more economical. If money is not an issue then get that Meng kit and have at it. Just like the airbrush and compressor, I can understand your trepidation but you won't really know until you've got it and you've used it for a bit.

I'm just starting to think that you're trying too hard to plunge in head first with the best of this or that, and you might get a rude awakening. A Meng kit as your first build? Obviously I don't know your temperament or prior experience, so the best I can do is wish you well. Just seems to me that $215 is pretty steep for an entry level price. You might end up with a lot of stuff you don't need!

I am most interested in seeing how this turns out for you! Be sure you post progress pics of your build!! So much good info on this site and we all learn from each other's work.

FWIW, I'd say that Dominic's comments are right on the money.

Model building and finishing represent a curve of skills and techniques from beginner to master.

You should start on a few simpler kits and develop good, basic construction skills and get a feel for how the kit designers and manufacturers suggest assembly sequences and how they engineer kits in general.

Same goes for finishing. A good basic quality internal mix airbrush with a basic (not entry level) compressor will get you going. You can't know what you will need or want in an airbrush and compressor until you have developed a basic level of knowledge founded on your own experience.

Learning to airbrush is an important milestone in a modeler's development, but most of us have discovered that it's actually more of a journey than a destination. A reliable airbrush made by a reputable manufacturer coupled with a good air supply is all you'll need for years. Once you have a well developed body of knowledge and experience, you'll be able to look for airbrushes with more capability that can match your own skills.

I would highly recommend that you build and complete several of Tamiya's AFV kits to get started. The same goes for your painting - Finish these kits and learn how to achieve a smooth, run and orange peel free finish and how to apply decals properly. Learn to brush paint details cleanly with sharp demarcations between colors, etc. Before you commence to airbrush, you might even consider painting a few models using rattle can (aerosol) paints. If you can't get a good finish from a spray can, the additional complexity of running an airbrush while mixing and thinning your own paints won't make doing that basic finish task any easier.

There are many, many basic construction and finishing skills that you should learn, and this will be much easier, and your learning curve will actually be steeper, if you don't add unnecessary complexity at the entry level stage.

I don't offer this advice lightly. I have seen a lot of guys who get in over their heads with their first projects, and the vast majority of those guys give up the hobby before ever completing a single kit. They often spend a lot of money right up front on kits, tools and paints and then struggle along, trashing a couple of those expensive kits and then finally giving up.

They never learn those basic assembly skills that are the foundation to other, more complex and difficult tasks. They never learn to understand kit instructions and general Kit engineering nor can they clean-up, fit, align, or cleanly glue parts.

Start with simple, easy to build kits, learn the basics and then master those same basic skills. Add complexity as you develop your skills and craft. Your own confidence and satisfaction with your own work will guide you to when it's time to add more complexity and difficulty. If you're not happy with the results, then build another kit of the same or lessor complexity until you are. Once you're happy with your work, then you'll know it's time to make things harder.

I'm not trying to discourage you here or to be patronizing. I'm just trying to help you get off on the right foot. If you feel that I'm off base with any of this then please just ignore it and drive on.

Happy modeling!

Hi, All! I think it's safe to say that you can use ONE airbrush to do all of the jobs that you mentioned. You can prime, spray your base coat, pre-shade, post-shade, do fine lines and camo work with ONE airbrush. The KEY to obtaining great results is cleaning your airbrush thoroughly between color changes and at the end of your spraying sessions.

Depending on my subject, I like to use a variety of techniques. For instance, if I'm working on a 1/35 M4, I'll prime the whole model once all the extra PE and resin bits have been applied. Then, I'll pre-shade/base-coat with a really DARK OLIVE DRAB, then once that's dried, I'll post-shade with a "factory-fresh" shade of OD, then, to depict the ares that are exposed to daylight, I'll post-shade again with, at most, 2 successively lighter pre-mixed shades of the "factory-fresh" OD.

If my subject is a 1/48 aircraft, I may not bother with a primer coat, but go ahead and pre-shade the panel lines, etc, then after that dries, I'll go ahead and paint my camo colors. If it's an aircraft in NATURAL METAL colors, I'll apply a base[coat of GLOSS BLACK and then proceed to different shades of ALCLAD Metalizers. I ALWAYS prime my brass HO locomotives, except for the ones that have already received a clear-coat from the factory.

Personally, and this is STRICTLY BY MY OWN CHOICE, I use FIVE different airbrushes for my spray work, for reasons which I'll explain in the next few paragraphs...

Say what you will, but I'm probably the last guy in the whole world-wide modelling community that still uses Single-Action Airbrushes. ( Well, maybe not... :) ) I DEFY ANYONE that swears by the dual-action types to match what CAN STILL BE DONE with a single!!!

Yes, I can achieve the same or better results as the vastly more expensive dual-action type airbrushes by judicious use of my air-to-paint adjustments on my singles, and air-pressure adjustments on my compressors. If I had a camera with a USB port, I'd gladly send pics of my work.

Anyway, the airbrushes that I use are 3 PAASCHE H-1s with Fine Tips, of which I use 1 for my regular enamels, 1 strictly for my metalizers, and 1 strictly for clear lacquers. I also use a BADGER 200 for my enamels, and a BADGER 200G Gravity-Feed model with the tiny integral color receptacle on top of the body, just behind the air-paint nozzle assembly. My 2 BADGERs are equipped with "Ultra-Fine Needles". I use the 200G strictly for touch-up and detail work.

Why so many airbrushes? Because I am FANATICAL about completely breaking down and cleaning each airbrush between color changes. While one of my airbrush's parts are soaking in lacquer thinners and thence in isopropyl alcohol, I'm spraying with one of my other airbrushes. Doing this keeps my work-flow relatively smooth.

I really like my PAASCHE and BADGER airbrushes for several reasons:

1- They are dead-simple to operate- For me anyway, because I've been lucky enough to master my own painting techniques, air-to-paint adjustments, paint mixes and air compressor pressures.

2- They are dead-simple to service and clean- I ALWAYS break my airbrushes down, clean and soak the parts in-between color changes. NO EXCEPTIONS... Breaking down your airbrush in-between color changes is not quite as time-consuming as you would think. I do it because I don't want ANY color cross-contamination whatsoever...

3-Parts are readily available- The simpler and the more common the tool, the easier it is to obtain parts, That's A FACT.

4- They are dependable, simply because they ARE simple in design and construction. I'm 62 years old, and I started airbrushing when I was 12. In 50 years, I've only had to replace the rubber O-rings in my PAASCHE H-1s TWICE, and the needles in my BADGER 200 THREE TIMES. My BADGER 200G is too new for needing to replace any parts, yet.

I especially like my 200 and 200G for replicating the very subtle but complex "mottled" camouflage schemes on my 1/48 German aircraft, and for creating very subtle and diffused color-effects for my other 1/48, and other scale subjects. They are especially useful in painting, detailing and weathering my HO scale "Steam-Era" locomotives and trains...

What I'm trying to convey here is that if one practices and experiments on scrap or old junk models, one can achieve the same results with the older single-action airbrushes as with dual-actions, for HALF the outlay of cash... Whatever you decide for yourself, good luck and enjoy!!!

Hi Craig, Been following this thread with interest, because I am in the same spot as you. ( been modeling for 40 years without using an airbrush much) I am also looking into getting an airbrush + compressor . The questions that you are asking and the answers that you are getting are a big help to me as well. thanks , John

A compressor with good performance is never a bad investment. The Sparmax 620 that "Alaska" consider is a good choice. Combined with a Eclipse CS it is a very good starter kit. Not the cheapest, but definitly a compressor that could be giving service for years, whatever airbrush he decides to use later on, and with a high second hand value, if he changes his mind.

Glad this thread is of value to you John! I to am grateful to all of the modelers out there that are posting and helping me in some of my equipment purchasing questions!

To Mike and Dominic I don't take your advise as impolite or chastising in any way! On the contrary I appreciate your opinion and incite into the subject at hand! Dominic you are right in saying that I just need to take the plunge and because of all the help from you and other members on this site I stand ready to do just that,..come on tax returns..lol!

It is not the difficulty of a kit that has me feeling a little intimated and I'm note bragging here I have been modeling for over 40 years of my life, maybe not the AFV genre but I started as a child with plastic car and truck kits then graduated in to small remote control airplanes and then to 1/4 to 1/3 scale models with up to 12' wing spans. These came as a box of wood and about 6 to 10 pages of architectural drawings. Then I graduated to building ships of the line in the 1700s to about the 1850s which came with 30+ pages building prints/drawings and took me from 1 to 5 years each to build, so it is not my building skills that I am unsure of and I'm not boasting here, I never needed an airbrush in all those years of modeling, hence my apprehension and lack of knowledge of purchasing the right equipment and the subject of my posts. I'm just trying to give you guy's some of my back ground so you will have a better picture into who's asking these questions.

Having said that I'm sure I will have some if not many questions during my first build and second and so on and will need some tutoring from all as I dive in to this genre. I should also say that I have always strived to purchase top quality equipment in my other endeavors and that has served me well except on the oft lady session from my know ex-wife, she's gone and my tools are still humming along...lol!!!!!!!!!!!

I should also say that that it is not my intention to build an historically accurate perfect every nut, bolt, rivet,etc. On this first build or even on my first dozen that would take all the fun out of this new hobby genre not to mention it takes years to acquire those kind of skills in any genre. I even stopped short of that kind of perfection in my ship building, I to this day do not desire to make my own rope walking machine and try to obtain the exact scale of ropes which represent hundreds of yards to represent all the rigging lines on these vast war ships of that era. Not to say there is anything wrong with pursuing such accuracy, far from it,I admire the men who take their skills to that level and love looking at their work, I'm just not interested in the purist rendition of said subjects.

So I will be happy if I can come close to the quality of your fine examples that I have seen posted here and will strive to acquire these new skills myself.

As soon as I get back some of the (MY) money Uncle Sam borrowed from me I will take the plunge and acquire My Iwata HP-CS, Sparmax tc-620x, Meng T90a MBT, Vallejo paint set and a hundred other things I will need and I feel comfortable in doing that because of all of the advise,opinions,direction given by all you fine gentlemen who have responded to my plight! Thank you ALL so much!!! I will keep you informed when stuff starts to arrive and I'm sure I will have many more questions for you in the future, I hope that will be alright with you guy's?

Thanks again Craig..

Apologies. My mistake and wrong assumptions about your experience!

Given your modeling experience, you should have no real problems with the Meng kit.

Not to throw you a curve, but Dennis' advice about Badger airbrushes in on the money. I used a Badger model 200 for nearly 35 years before getting another airbrush. I painted a lot of award winning AFV models with that Badger, and it still works great.

In fact, over the last few years, I've loaned my Model 200 to a couple of other modelers who have also had good experience with it. One of those guys had never airbrushed before, and he painted a number of models with it before buying his first airbrush. The other borrowed the Badger because his Pasche crapped out on him.

(I will confess that both are now squirting paint out of Iwatas... LOL!)

Anyways, depending on where you live, you might find Badger is an easier brand to source along with spare parts, etc. They're "good kit," and Badger has a very solid reputation for aftersales service when needed, especially in the US where postage to the factory is relatively inexpensive.

If not, the Iwata should do you right.

Happy modeling!

Hey Mike.. No need for said apologies! I understand that ones inexperience with airbrushing might suggest that ones inexperience in modeling skills were closely related..that would be a safe assumption..hence my explanation of my modeling skills vs. airbrushing. This type of assertion is hard to do with out coming across as being boastful, which as I said was not my intention at ALL!

It is my hope that it has come across as I intended it to and doesn't rustle the feathers of others!!!

I do and will continue to ask for others help and advise on this site because it is so necessary when one embarks on some new endeavor without all the skills and knowledge one needs to be even remotely successful in that pursuit!!

If I offended anyone then perhaps it is I that should apologize!

Ok that being said who among you have had experience with building kits from the Meng company and what were your results or opinions?

Craig..

I meant to ask this question in my last post..

What companies if their are any, offer upgrade kits for the Meng T90A MBT ie. tracks,PE,main gun barrels ect?

Penny for your 2cents guy's!!

Thanks again Craig...

Hiya Craig,

I built the Zvezda T-90 and it was pretty good, but i bought it before Meng released theirs. Had i to do it over again, i woulda waited for the Meng kit....it looks AWESOME!!!!

Looking forward to see ya have at it!

Gary

Hey Gary..Thanks for the input! I to can't wait to get my hands on this kit from Meng! I also have other kits on my wish list from the likes of Tamiya, Bronco, Dragon.. When I first discovered this site I had asked the members out there for opinions on what modeling companies produced good or above average kits and I believe it was Darren (cmot) and a few others that replied and supplied me with the companies mentioned above and also the Meng co. was mentioned. The result of this input is I have a couple of wish lists from hell built on such sites as scalehobbiest.com, spruebrothers.com to mention just a couple and there are (so many choices and so little time)..lol..

My interest are in more than one era or nation. WWII Alies&Axis,Korea,Vietnam,Isreal,Irag,Iran,France,Britain,need I go on? No I think not. I have to say that I was amazed at what is available to AFV or just plastic modelers in general today! When I was a child we had Revell and AMC and that was about it,wow have things changed out there in plastic scale modeling!!To my delight I might add!

It is my hope that the quality has gone up as much as the variety of these kits has! When I was a kid they suffered from poor engineering,excessive flash,poor fit up,inadequate detail etc. It's what drove me into the pursuit of modeling R/C planes and then wooden war ships where one could have more control of the build and desired outcome.

Well I'm just rambling on here, SORRY guy's..

Craig..