AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Hosted by Darren Baker, Matthew Toms
Airbrush ?
Removed by original poster on 02/23/15 - 11:06:38 (GMT).
roteiro
Joined: February 23, 2015
KitMaker: 1 posts
Armorama: 1 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 22, 2015 - 04:07 PM UTC
Hi there! I'd go for iwata airbrush. Just got a new compressor for mine from online store . It is a really decent one, as for me.
airborne1
Joined: April 15, 2006
KitMaker: 915 posts
Armorama: 797 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 22, 2015 - 04:50 PM UTC
This is a good thread.
Craig, whatever you choose ensure you obtain a decent filter regulator with your compressor .Clean dry air is what you want for airbrushing .If you have moisture build up in the area where your painting the airlines will attract it.
Different filters can also be inserted to give better results.
I.e :clean air.
I use 2, 1 at the compressor and the other at the air brush end .
Michael
Craig, whatever you choose ensure you obtain a decent filter regulator with your compressor .Clean dry air is what you want for airbrushing .If you have moisture build up in the area where your painting the airlines will attract it.
Different filters can also be inserted to give better results.
I.e :clean air.
I use 2, 1 at the compressor and the other at the air brush end .
Michael
SdAufKla
Joined: May 07, 2010
KitMaker: 2,238 posts
Armorama: 2,158 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 22, 2015 - 06:35 PM UTC
@ Michael Walsh:
I don't want to hijack Craig's thread, but I was admiring your airbrush manifold. Did you put that together your self or is it a bit of commercial kit? If so, could you say who the vendor is that you got it from?
Cheers!
I don't want to hijack Craig's thread, but I was admiring your airbrush manifold. Did you put that together your self or is it a bit of commercial kit? If so, could you say who the vendor is that you got it from?
Cheers!
Alaska
Joined: January 22, 2015
KitMaker: 158 posts
Armorama: 112 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 22, 2015 - 10:52 PM UTC
Thanks Roteiro! I am sold on my choice of the Iwata HP-CS the response from others completely supports this purchase choice as a good investment and a great all around airbrush to start out with!
Michael nice pic's of your set up! Maybe you could take a side view pic of your manifold for us so we can see your set up better! It is my intent to also install an inline moisture trap in addition to the pressure gauge/regulator/moisture separator that comes with the Sparmax TC-620x that I have chosen to purchase, do you think that will be sufficient?? By the way you have a very nice professional looking set up Michael!! Please post more!
Mike.. No worries mate,high jack away! I'm learning so much from you guy's and your question to Michael was in the back of my mind also. Keep it up guy's! This seemingly innocent question that I had from the start has produced and continues to produce a treasure trove of information!
Thanks to you all!..Craig
Michael nice pic's of your set up! Maybe you could take a side view pic of your manifold for us so we can see your set up better! It is my intent to also install an inline moisture trap in addition to the pressure gauge/regulator/moisture separator that comes with the Sparmax TC-620x that I have chosen to purchase, do you think that will be sufficient?? By the way you have a very nice professional looking set up Michael!! Please post more!
Mike.. No worries mate,high jack away! I'm learning so much from you guy's and your question to Michael was in the back of my mind also. Keep it up guy's! This seemingly innocent question that I had from the start has produced and continues to produce a treasure trove of information!
Thanks to you all!..Craig
BBD468
Joined: March 08, 2010
KitMaker: 2,465 posts
Armorama: 2,383 posts
Posted: Monday, February 23, 2015 - 12:41 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Hey Gary..Thanks for the input! I to can't wait to get my hands on this kit from Meng! I also have other kits on my wish list from the likes of Tamiya, Bronco, Dragon.. When I first discovered this site I had asked the members out there for opinions on what modeling companies produced good or above average kits and I believe it was Darren (cmot) and a few others that replied and supplied me with the companies mentioned above and also the Meng co. was mentioned. The result of this input is I have a couple of wish lists from hell built on such sites as scalehobbiest.com, spruebrothers.com to mention just a couple and there are (so many choices and so little time)..lol..
My interest are in more than one era or nation. WWII Alies&Axis,Korea,Vietnam,Isreal,Irag,Iran,France,Britain,need I go on? No I think not. I have to say that I was amazed at what is available to AFV or just plastic modelers in general today! When I was a child we had Revell and AMC and that was about it,wow have things changed out there in plastic scale modeling!!To my delight I might add!
It is my hope that the quality has gone up as much as the variety of these kits has! When I was a kid they suffered from poor engineering,excessive flash,poor fit up,inadequate detail etc. It's what drove me into the pursuit of modeling R/C planes and then wooden war ships where one could have more control of the build and desired outcome.
Well I'm just rambling on here, SORRY guy's..
Craig..
Craig, these are great days for modelers indeed...so many goodies!!!
I started out doing WWII tanks only for the first 3 years, but now i like Post WWII, Modern....I LIKE IT ALL!!! Heck, ive even built 2 wingy's, 2 cars and a Ship in the last 2 years and still built 5-6 tanks!
PM me when ya start a thread on your Meng T-90....would ya?
Regards,
Gary
Alaska
Joined: January 22, 2015
KitMaker: 158 posts
Armorama: 112 posts
Posted: Monday, February 23, 2015 - 02:32 AM UTC
Sure will Gary! Late tax returns is the only thing holding me back..lol..!
Heres a question Gary that I haven't put out there yet. I understand that modelers are recommending washing the model parts before priming/painting to remove mold residues and the like, so are you guy's washing all the parts while still attached to the sprue panels? That would make sense to me. Might sound like a stupid question but one I'm willing to ask..
Craig..
Heres a question Gary that I haven't put out there yet. I understand that modelers are recommending washing the model parts before priming/painting to remove mold residues and the like, so are you guy's washing all the parts while still attached to the sprue panels? That would make sense to me. Might sound like a stupid question but one I'm willing to ask..
Craig..
airborne1
Joined: April 15, 2006
KitMaker: 915 posts
Armorama: 797 posts
Posted: Monday, February 23, 2015 - 03:58 PM UTC
Hi Craig,
To answer the question about washing the models .No , but if it is a very old plastic kit that's been in the cupboard for years then wash away.Some resin producers need to have the kits and figures washed but with the quality of what there is on the market now this may not be needed.
Also I want apologise by not meaning to hijack your thread
have learnt plenty reading through every one's comments in this thread .
Also I wanted to show other modeller's an image because it speaks leaps and bounds rather than writing it up.
In saying that there are some images below to show the manifold setup.
The 3 are hooked up and ready to use if 1 airbrush is not spraying the paint the way you want.
With instant access by a turn of the valve it will make it quicker to achieve far better results with a different airbrush to spray the paint .
Each to there own .
The manifold , airbrush holder, compressor , fittings all come from a supplier based in Melbourne Australia called Runway 13.
They are on the net here http://runway13.com/store/
All the best in your purchase and airbrushing .
Michael
To answer the question about washing the models .No , but if it is a very old plastic kit that's been in the cupboard for years then wash away.Some resin producers need to have the kits and figures washed but with the quality of what there is on the market now this may not be needed.
Also I want apologise by not meaning to hijack your thread
have learnt plenty reading through every one's comments in this thread .
Also I wanted to show other modeller's an image because it speaks leaps and bounds rather than writing it up.
In saying that there are some images below to show the manifold setup.
The 3 are hooked up and ready to use if 1 airbrush is not spraying the paint the way you want.
With instant access by a turn of the valve it will make it quicker to achieve far better results with a different airbrush to spray the paint .
Each to there own .
The manifold , airbrush holder, compressor , fittings all come from a supplier based in Melbourne Australia called Runway 13.
They are on the net here http://runway13.com/store/
All the best in your purchase and airbrushing .
Michael
BBD468
Joined: March 08, 2010
KitMaker: 2,465 posts
Armorama: 2,383 posts
Posted: Monday, February 23, 2015 - 08:01 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Sure will Gary! Late tax returns is the only thing holding me back..lol..!
Heres a question Gary that I haven't put out there yet. I understand that modelers are recommending washing the model parts before priming/painting to remove mold residues and the like, so are you guy's washing all the parts while still attached to the sprue panels? That would make sense to me. Might sound like a stupid question but one I'm willing to ask..
Craig..
Hey Craig,
I indeed clean the plastic before i prime. My method is to build the model and just before priming i clean the entire model carefully with 91% Iso Alcohol. I use Tamiya Surface primer thinned with Lacquer Thinner and it bites the plastic superbly. Ive never once had issues with primer or paint lifting, chipping or the like.
Remember, there are no Stupid questions when your trying to learn something. Never hesitate to ask Craig, someone will always come along and drop some knowledge on ya!
Gary
SdAufKla
Joined: May 07, 2010
KitMaker: 2,238 posts
Armorama: 2,158 posts
Posted: Monday, February 23, 2015 - 08:24 PM UTC
@ Michael:
Thanks for the pics of your mainfold and the link to Runway13.
Unfortunately, it seems that they no longer have that particular manifold in stock.
A very nice bit of kit, though. I've been looking for one just like that for some time - individual cut offs for each AB with a filter, water trap and regulator at the manifold end.
Looks like I'll probably have to cobble one together.
Thanks, again!
Thanks for the pics of your mainfold and the link to Runway13.
Unfortunately, it seems that they no longer have that particular manifold in stock.
A very nice bit of kit, though. I've been looking for one just like that for some time - individual cut offs for each AB with a filter, water trap and regulator at the manifold end.
Looks like I'll probably have to cobble one together.
Thanks, again!
Alaska
Joined: January 22, 2015
KitMaker: 158 posts
Armorama: 112 posts
Posted: Monday, February 23, 2015 - 10:03 PM UTC
Thanks for the continuing posts guy's! As I said to Mike above Michael no apologies needed for posting additions or different subjects at all,I do not consider it high jacking my thread at ALL!!!! On the contrary please keep it up!!
Michael thanks for posting the pics I asked for of your manifold! Even though it seems the parts aren't available from the link you provided as Mike said, here in the US there are countless places where one can obtain the manifold pieces in your set up. (Note)Michael your set up looks sweet!!!
Michael I have another question for you, I noticed your what I assume to be a Magnifying light in the background and I was wondering if it was made by a company called DayLight? as I have been looking into that type of fixture for painting figures also and it would help my aging eye's! Just curious because this company DayLight is highly recommended and reviewed here in the US.
Gary has commented on the cleaning of parts/model as you have and I've read to some extent on this issue and what I'm thinking is since I'm going the acrylic route it might be advantageous to me to wash my model before priming. I put this question out there and It just seems to me that it would be common sense to do this even if done just to reduce the chances of failure with primer/paint bonding to the plastic/resin and I feel kind of stupid for putting this question out there! Better to ask than not I guess?
Michael thanks for posting the pics I asked for of your manifold! Even though it seems the parts aren't available from the link you provided as Mike said, here in the US there are countless places where one can obtain the manifold pieces in your set up. (Note)Michael your set up looks sweet!!!
Michael I have another question for you, I noticed your what I assume to be a Magnifying light in the background and I was wondering if it was made by a company called DayLight? as I have been looking into that type of fixture for painting figures also and it would help my aging eye's! Just curious because this company DayLight is highly recommended and reviewed here in the US.
Gary has commented on the cleaning of parts/model as you have and I've read to some extent on this issue and what I'm thinking is since I'm going the acrylic route it might be advantageous to me to wash my model before priming. I put this question out there and It just seems to me that it would be common sense to do this even if done just to reduce the chances of failure with primer/paint bonding to the plastic/resin and I feel kind of stupid for putting this question out there! Better to ask than not I guess?
airborne1
Joined: April 15, 2006
KitMaker: 915 posts
Armorama: 797 posts
Posted: Tuesday, February 24, 2015 - 01:42 AM UTC
Hi Craig,
They are good questions your asking.I use a number of primers and mainly it is the good old Humbrol No 1, Now converted to Mig Ammo primer for acrylics and that works just as well .
I found when the primer hasn''t bonded to the plastic it come down to the primer being too thin.That is my observation but there are many people who like washing before priming .
Have painted Humbrol primer on 85 % of my kit builds , rarely worry about priming figures because the primer may suck some of detail up.
The hobby light was Purchased from a place called Officeworks in Australia and they seem have gone down in price over the last couple of years because I paid more fore this .
http://www.officeworks.com.au/shop/officeworks/lighting/hobby-lamps
There is no name on the lamp but it gives good white light out .
The magnifying part has been extremely helpful with aber tool clamps .
Hope this helps .
Michael
They are good questions your asking.I use a number of primers and mainly it is the good old Humbrol No 1, Now converted to Mig Ammo primer for acrylics and that works just as well .
I found when the primer hasn''t bonded to the plastic it come down to the primer being too thin.That is my observation but there are many people who like washing before priming .
Have painted Humbrol primer on 85 % of my kit builds , rarely worry about priming figures because the primer may suck some of detail up.
The hobby light was Purchased from a place called Officeworks in Australia and they seem have gone down in price over the last couple of years because I paid more fore this .
http://www.officeworks.com.au/shop/officeworks/lighting/hobby-lamps
There is no name on the lamp but it gives good white light out .
The magnifying part has been extremely helpful with aber tool clamps .
Hope this helps .
Michael
SdAufKla
Joined: May 07, 2010
KitMaker: 2,238 posts
Armorama: 2,158 posts
Posted: Tuesday, February 24, 2015 - 02:01 AM UTC
FWIW, I always wash my models before painting. I assemble as much as I can, wash the subassemblies in warm soapy water using ordinary dish detergent and air dry. I use a large squirrel hair water color brush to agitate and scrub, as needed. Rinse under warm running water. Keep the sink plugged just in case I break or drop something.
This not only gets any mold release contaminants off the plastic, but it removes sanding dust, ordinary dust, swarf from sawing and drilling, etc. A clean, dust free surface is important to getting a quality paint job.
IRT you question about lighting: I have four of the Ott brand daylight balanced lamps (two desk lamps on my painting bench and two floor lamps for photography), but recently I upgraded the lighting in my studio with ordinary 4' florescent shop lights with daylight balanced bulbs. I also replaced all of the track light bulbs (over display areas) and desk lamp bulbs (on my work bench) with daylight CFL's.
The price of CFL bulbs has dropped dramatically in the last couple of years, and they give a light that's as good a quality as the Ott lamps at a fraction of the costs.
After I use up the spare Ott light bulbs that I have on hand (purchased on sale since the Ott products are no longer being carried by a lot of places), I'll replace my Ott lights with ordinary floor and desk lamps with daylight CFL bulbs.
If I was buying new, that's also what I would do - ordinary lamps and ceiling lights with daylight balanced florescent bulbs.
For figure painting and construction work, a magnifying head band or reading glasses work much better than a single lens magnifier. You really need binocular vision to judge depth while painting and working.
This not only gets any mold release contaminants off the plastic, but it removes sanding dust, ordinary dust, swarf from sawing and drilling, etc. A clean, dust free surface is important to getting a quality paint job.
IRT you question about lighting: I have four of the Ott brand daylight balanced lamps (two desk lamps on my painting bench and two floor lamps for photography), but recently I upgraded the lighting in my studio with ordinary 4' florescent shop lights with daylight balanced bulbs. I also replaced all of the track light bulbs (over display areas) and desk lamp bulbs (on my work bench) with daylight CFL's.
The price of CFL bulbs has dropped dramatically in the last couple of years, and they give a light that's as good a quality as the Ott lamps at a fraction of the costs.
After I use up the spare Ott light bulbs that I have on hand (purchased on sale since the Ott products are no longer being carried by a lot of places), I'll replace my Ott lights with ordinary floor and desk lamps with daylight CFL bulbs.
If I was buying new, that's also what I would do - ordinary lamps and ceiling lights with daylight balanced florescent bulbs.
For figure painting and construction work, a magnifying head band or reading glasses work much better than a single lens magnifier. You really need binocular vision to judge depth while painting and working.
Alaska
Joined: January 22, 2015
KitMaker: 158 posts
Armorama: 112 posts
Posted: Tuesday, February 24, 2015 - 06:36 AM UTC
Mike & Michael thanks for the return input! Thanks for not belittling my questions on washing! Info is key even if one takes a chance in embarrassing oneself in the process!
Lighting: I have chosen the Daylight U32500 as my main modeling light Available from Amazon.com wish I knew how to put up a link like you guy's have! But worth taking a look at it yourselves! $122.29
My choice for magnification is the Daylight U23080 with a 7 1/2" by 7" lens and surrounding light. You can look at this light and watch a short video on this product at massagetools.com $267.99 It is a professionally used light,hence the price! I don't mind spending my hard earned money on quality tools!
I hope you can take the time to look these up and comment back!!
Another thing I wanted to mention is I'm thinking of purchasing a ultrasonic cleaner specifically the model isonic P4820-wpt and the wire mesh basket P4820 for helping me clean my airbrush. Penny for your 2cents guy's not a profitable proposition..lol! But much appreciated!! Also available at amazon.com
p.s. If you gentlemen can explain how you put up a link to a laymen that would be nice!
Thank Guy's...Craig
Lighting: I have chosen the Daylight U32500 as my main modeling light Available from Amazon.com wish I knew how to put up a link like you guy's have! But worth taking a look at it yourselves! $122.29
My choice for magnification is the Daylight U23080 with a 7 1/2" by 7" lens and surrounding light. You can look at this light and watch a short video on this product at massagetools.com $267.99 It is a professionally used light,hence the price! I don't mind spending my hard earned money on quality tools!
I hope you can take the time to look these up and comment back!!
Another thing I wanted to mention is I'm thinking of purchasing a ultrasonic cleaner specifically the model isonic P4820-wpt and the wire mesh basket P4820 for helping me clean my airbrush. Penny for your 2cents guy's not a profitable proposition..lol! But much appreciated!! Also available at amazon.com
p.s. If you gentlemen can explain how you put up a link to a laymen that would be nice!
Thank Guy's...Craig
airborne1
Joined: April 15, 2006
KitMaker: 915 posts
Armorama: 797 posts
Posted: Tuesday, February 24, 2015 - 12:59 PM UTC
Hey Craig,
Good choice of light.Nice
I'd be interested in 1 of those as well but we use a different plug in connection 3 pin for 240 volt , I'd be too slack to get it changed over.
Can't help on the Ultrasonic cleaner but there are a lot of modellers here at Armorama who use them.
Michael
Good choice of light.Nice
I'd be interested in 1 of those as well but we use a different plug in connection 3 pin for 240 volt , I'd be too slack to get it changed over.
Can't help on the Ultrasonic cleaner but there are a lot of modellers here at Armorama who use them.
Michael
Alaska
Joined: January 22, 2015
KitMaker: 158 posts
Armorama: 112 posts
Posted: Tuesday, February 24, 2015 - 07:24 PM UTC
Hey Michael..
Thanks for looking at my light choices! Isn't their a simple way to attach a conversion plug onto a fixture like travelers from the USA do for such things like their electric shavers when they go over to Europe??
Craig
Thanks for looking at my light choices! Isn't their a simple way to attach a conversion plug onto a fixture like travelers from the USA do for such things like their electric shavers when they go over to Europe??
Craig
airborne1
Joined: April 15, 2006
KitMaker: 915 posts
Armorama: 797 posts
Posted: Friday, February 27, 2015 - 06:41 AM UTC
Hey Craig,
Yes your right , where is the light store ... 
Thanks
Michael
Yes your right , where is the light store ...
Thanks
Michael
dinosaur
Joined: January 01, 2010
KitMaker: 30 posts
Armorama: 18 posts
Posted: Friday, February 27, 2015 - 07:00 AM UTC
Hey Craig , a lot of good info on this thread, it has helped me decide to get an airbrush and compressor . I am now the proud owner of an Iwata HP-CS and a smart jet 850 compressor , thanks John.
Alaska
Joined: January 22, 2015
KitMaker: 158 posts
Armorama: 112 posts
Posted: Friday, February 27, 2015 - 07:14 AM UTC
Your welcome John! Glad you found this thread helpful! Congratulations on your new Iwata HP-CS and your Iwata Smart jet 850 compressor!1 Please let me know how things go with your new set up! I will be getting the same airbrush but have chosen a Sparmax TC-620x for my compressor just for future expansion ie. More than one airbrush. But as far as I've been able to ascertain you have made great choices!! Like I said keep me up dated please!! Here's to your success CHEERS!!
Craig..
Craig..
Alaska
Joined: January 22, 2015
KitMaker: 158 posts
Armorama: 112 posts
Posted: Friday, February 27, 2015 - 07:22 AM UTC
Hey ya Michael!.. The magnifying light I found at massagetools.com It was once available at amazon.com but is not for the time being. Model: Daylight U23080 For the main shop light Daylight Model: U32500 at amazon.com
Hope this helps!!
Craig..
Hope this helps!!
Craig..
Alaska
Joined: January 22, 2015
KitMaker: 158 posts
Armorama: 112 posts
Posted: Friday, February 27, 2015 - 07:33 AM UTC
Michael if I've confused you and you can't find the lights let me know and I will try harder to get exact urls for you.
Craig..
Craig..
airborne1
Joined: April 15, 2006
KitMaker: 915 posts
Armorama: 797 posts
Posted: Friday, February 27, 2015 - 01:08 PM UTC
All good Craig,
Hunting web sites for cheaper pricing .
Thanks
Michael
Hunting web sites for cheaper pricing .
Thanks
Michael
Alaska
Joined: January 22, 2015
KitMaker: 158 posts
Armorama: 112 posts
Posted: Sunday, March 01, 2015 - 02:49 AM UTC
Hey there John Montgomery! How's that new Iwata set up treating you????
Love to hear how it's coming along bud!
Craig..
Love to hear how it's coming along bud!
Craig..
Alaska
Joined: January 22, 2015
KitMaker: 158 posts
Armorama: 112 posts
Posted: Sunday, March 01, 2015 - 02:51 AM UTC
Hi there Michael Walsh! Having any luck finding those Daylight products on your side of the world??
Let me know if I can further help you out!
Craig..
Let me know if I can further help you out!
Craig..
dinosaur
Joined: January 01, 2010
KitMaker: 30 posts
Armorama: 18 posts
Posted: Sunday, March 01, 2015 - 07:58 AM UTC
Hey Craig ,
I have not been able to do much, (my weekend to work) but I do know that with everything connected and turned on , air does flow out the pointy end when I push the button LOL!
Thanks , John
I have not been able to do much, (my weekend to work) but I do know that with everything connected and turned on , air does flow out the pointy end when I push the button LOL!
Thanks , John
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