AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Rust streaks on AFVs - why?
M4A1Sherman
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Posted: Wednesday, February 18, 2015 - 01:38 AM UTC

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WOW Brent....Fantastic Abrams build fella!!! BTW, that photo of the Abrams is my favorite. I hope to build one similar some day.

Gary




Thanks Gary, appreciate the comment.


@ Dennis - that's pretty much exactly how I paint. A mix of old and new (ish) techniques.

My point wasn't about boring finishes so much as why people that appreciate minimal weathering don't comment more on builds like that .... if everyone that's expressed a dislike for the "show modelling" trend of hyper modulation and overuse of "brand" weathering products commented when a simpler build was posted maybe there'd be more of them shown.

The other thing I think that's clouding the issue is that extreme modulation (not controlled), the weathering that's often associated with it (particularly rust) and the products designed for it have never really been about realism per se. One of the brands associated with founding modulation clearly mentions it's an artistic representation. Personally I don't like it that much. Sometimes it suits the subject while any times it doesn't. It is striking though and that's what it attracts so many comments.

Either way I appreciate all sorts of models, artistic and clean. I always try to take away something from them all that will improve my own modelling or finishing ability.

Brent



Hi, BRENT! EXACTLY!!! Yourself, Mike @ 165th, Phil, and a few other "down-to-earth" fellow modellers, IMO see things in the proper light. My brand of "MODULATION" is achieved with careful and judicial use of my AIRBRUSHES, and only after my pre-shaded DARK BASE COAT, and my "factory-fresh original color. I DO NOT subscribe to this contemporary fetish of buying the fancy-schmancy GOO that comes pre-mixed in a small jar that costs an arm and a leg. Not that I'm cheap when it comes to modelling. Those "specially-formulated" weathering washes and filters LITERALLY CLOUD THE ISSUE when it comes to "realistic" weathering, especially when it comes to bogus "rust-effects" and "streaking-effects".

I bought a book which depicts modelling WWII Russian armor- after the modeller so capably built, corrected, detailed and painted his models, the overall effects of his weathering techniques turned out to be, in my eyes anyway, WAAAAYYY overdone, with the vehicles in question came out looking like they had just been driven through a FLOUR FACTORY!!!



I cannot advocate anything more than RESTRAINT when weathering ANYTHING. Just when you think that it isn't enough, STOP!!!
americanpanzer
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Posted: Wednesday, February 18, 2015 - 01:45 AM UTC
great photo of the tank being deep-sixed to fight subs for Mother Russia; a good dose of humor is often needed to remind us that this hobby is ultimately fun!!
srmalloy
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Posted: Wednesday, February 18, 2015 - 01:45 AM UTC

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I think alot of the things that are actually seen in the field would look unrealistic to some if built as a standalone scale model. As an example, I've posted below two photos of trucks with mud smeared over the body as camouflage. It's not natural weathering and it obscures the contours of the vehicles (and would involve tons of visible brush strokes) all of which are things that many modellers would consider anathema, but it painting a vehicle with brushstrokes, not highlighting of contours etc would be a realistic representation of what's out in the field.



I am reminded of the picture of the SdKfz 232 in North Africa -- I believe it was in the first Panzer Colors book -- that was done like this; you could see the sweeping strokes where the crew had mixed up a slurry of fine dirt and water and spread it over the panzer grey to reduce its contrast against the terrain. It was captioned as an example of field-expedient camouflage, noting that it would wear off quickly, but could be reapplied as needed.
M4A1Sherman
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Posted: Wednesday, February 18, 2015 - 01:50 AM UTC

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Sure, I agree with what Phil has just written- That excessive mud covers up A LOT of the beautiful detailing that we get right "out of the box", and the additional stuff that we add to our models in the way of resin bits and pieces and PE. I happen to be one of those modelers that LOVES PE, and I have no qualms about using it, PROVIDING IT IS AN ACCURATE representation of what should be there. The same applies to resin. WHY go to all the trouble of adding/correcting detail, when it's only going to be obscured by adding 6 pounds of mud..?




There are plenty of ways a real tank gets dirty without obscuring detail. The only reason for putting tons of mud on a tank is if you're building a tank in lots of mud. But properly depicted dried mud doesn't obscure detail. It obscures paint and markings; but photo-etch detail no. in fact PE is a wonderful tool to depict properly beat up sheet metal fittings on tanks. And properly done dripping mud splattered on a photo-etched detail can be very evocative of a real tank in service.


But then how many modelers here have put all the storage box handles on an M48 or M60 in a perfect row? Going over any rough terrain can knock them all over the place except for the one with the lock on it.



That depends on what kind of mud it is that is to be depicted- some mud is just opaque dirty water, some is the consistency of house paint. Other mud has the consistency of freshly-mixed concrete, and we can just go on successively thickening our mud until it resembles moist clods of earth. When I say that too much mud obscures detail, it is precisely the THICK CRAP that I'm talking about.

As to the "perfectly row of storage box handles", I couldn't agree with you more! That's another thing that I try to avoid in my super-detailing efforts!!!
M4A1Sherman
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Posted: Wednesday, February 18, 2015 - 02:07 AM UTC

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I think alot of the things that are actually seen in the field would look unrealistic to some if built as a standalone scale model. As an example, I've posted below two photos of trucks with mud smeared over the body as camouflage. It's not natural weathering and it obscures the contours of the vehicles (and would involve tons of visible brush strokes) all of which are things that many modellers would consider anathema, but it painting a vehicle with brushstrokes, not highlighting of contours etc would be a realistic representation of what's out in the field.



I am reminded of the picture of the SdKfz 232 in North Africa -- I believe it was in the first Panzer Colors book -- that was done like this; you could see the sweeping strokes where the crew had mixed up a slurry of fine dirt and water and spread it over the panzer grey to reduce its contrast against the terrain. It was captioned as an example of field-expedient camouflage, noting that it would wear off quickly, but could be reapplied as needed.



Yes, exactly! My maternal Uncle Fritz described smearing mud on his successive Pz.Kpfw.IVs with his crew-mates when he served in France, 1940, to February, 1944, when he was captured by US forces. He also described using foliage more than anything else to conceal his vehicles. Regarding all those lovingly applied, exacting camo schemes that we see on so many of these 1/35 WWII German vehicles, I quote, in his words: "WHO HAD TIME FOR SUCH NONSENSE!?! We were much more concerned with staying ALIVE!!! DIESEN VERDAMMTE AMI UND ENGLISCHE JABOS!!! SCHRECKLICH!!!

US tankers and tank-destroyer crews also did use mud for camo in the MTO, and subsequently in the ETO. By the way, I STILL USE the 3 Squadron PANZER COLORS books! They're STILL a very viable source for German paint and camo schemes! Thanks for mentioning them!!!
165thspc
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Posted: Wednesday, February 18, 2015 - 02:30 AM UTC
Dennis, Thanks for that quote from your Uncle. It helps a lot!
Unreality
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Posted: Wednesday, February 18, 2015 - 04:09 AM UTC
Personally, I go for the more artistic look with rust, streaks, and modulation. But then again, I don't care much for replicating a specific vehicle...rather I build and paint the way I want to (which I know is unrealistic). Now, I can certainly understand if you get enjoyment from doing the research and trying to make it realistic. That's awesome; it's just not my cup of tea.

What I hate is when people judge my work as inferior or ridiculous because they don't like the style I use. I just got back from a show recently and some of the judges reamed me because they didn't like the modulation I used, and that really annoyed me.

Again, I enjoy the art of the hobby, and I do respect the hours of research and building that the historical-focus modelers go for. I just wish there wasn't this "that's the wrong way to do ____" mentality for another person's style.

But that's just my 4 cents
165thspc
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Posted: Wednesday, February 18, 2015 - 07:46 AM UTC
Interestingly Jonathan I had exactly the opposite experience; I stopped modeling and competitiing in the armor classes b/c it seemed that the judges looked right past my "real weathering" approach and always gave the prize to those models that had the "artistic" panel highlighting /modulation/ rust streak treatments.
Unreality
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Posted: Wednesday, February 18, 2015 - 07:58 AM UTC

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Interestingly Jonathan I had exactly the opposite experience; I stopped modeling and competitiing in the armor classes b/c it seemed that the judges looked right past my "real weathering" approach and always gave the prize to those models that had the "artistic" panel highlighting /modulation/ rust streak treatments.



Sorry to hear that man. It really sucks when others knock your work just because they don't like your style.
GarethM
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Posted: Wednesday, February 18, 2015 - 08:07 AM UTC

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Interestingly Jonathan I had exactly the opposite experience; I stopped modeling and competitiing in the armor classes b/c it seemed that the judges looked right past my "real weathering" approach and always gave the prize to those models that had the "artistic" panel highlighting /modulation/ rust streak treatments.



Sorry to hear that man. It really sucks when others knock your work just because they don't like your style.



I've seen rusty Zimmerit models. That's not a style, that's not realistic, it's impossible. If you painted a Jagtiger pink it would be more plausible and more artistic than rusty zimmerit.
AmTrac1833
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Posted: Wednesday, February 18, 2015 - 09:01 AM UTC
Here is a fine example of the rusty EAAK I was trying to describe earlier. This image is from usmc.mil.


TankSGT
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Posted: Wednesday, February 18, 2015 - 05:04 PM UTC
After reading the thread I felt I had to add my 2cents. I'm a realism builder I was an armor crewman for 27 years on 6 different tanks so I build judged on my experiance. I know where the mud builds up, how a crew tracks mud and what rusts. Also the last tank in a colum is covered in dust the first tank is fairly clean, I was the #3 tank PSGs wing man always tail end charlie with Div 86. I looked like I was wearing khakis instead of BDUs. In addition don't forget plant material, if you drive through a field grass and plants get mixed in the mud and soil and they harden into bricks.
When I was in the 11th ACR we had to keep the tanks fully operational but we didn't run around spot painting. Tools were natural wood. One time they were painted for in IG inspection and had to be scraped clean thats what the IG wanted. Also tools are only mounted externally in the field in the motorpool they are locked up unless you want them filling someone elses inventory short fall. US tanks store all tools in the sponson boxes.
Also you can never get the tank totally clean you don't use soap and a scrub brush. You chip at mud and use a hose. A faint patina of dirt will remain.
In Fort Drum and probally elsewhere they recycle the wash rack water so after a few tanks are washed you are spraying the tank with dirty water so it leaves a film after it drys. Its also really nasty for wash rack hose fights and new guy baptisms.
I can appreciate the artistic paint jobs but I know its art and not for me. Its like comparing a gold plated m1 Garand to a surplus one that may have seen action. Its nice to look at but I'll take the shooter.
Contests are a rough thing every judge brings their own prejudice to the judging table. I gave up on them and build for me and an ocasional commission.

Tom
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Posted: Wednesday, February 18, 2015 - 06:24 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Personally, I go for the more artistic look with rust, streaks, and modulation. But then again, I don't care much for replicating a specific vehicle...rather I build and paint the way I want to (which I know is unrealistic). Now, I can certainly understand if you get enjoyment from doing the research and trying to make it realistic. That's awesome; it's just not my cup of tea.

What I hate is when people judge my work as inferior or ridiculous because they don't like the style I use. I just got back from a show recently and some of the judges reamed me because they didn't like the modulation I used, and that really annoyed me.

Again, I enjoy the art of the hobby, and I do respect the hours of research and building that the historical-focus modelers go for. I just wish there wasn't this "that's the wrong way to do ____" mentality for another person's style.

But that's just my 4 cents



I couldn't agree more.
edklingon
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Posted: Wednesday, February 18, 2015 - 07:05 PM UTC

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... as if the modeler was trying to apply at once all effects that he ever heard of or read about.



That's it! I think that today, for a lot of modelers, its not more "the way for the result" but "the way is the result"...
easyco69
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Posted: Wednesday, February 18, 2015 - 07:17 PM UTC
not only that but..rust itself is over done. Chipping also. The one area in WW 2 where chipping would be extensive is the desert war. Vehicles being sand blasted.
Vehicles would be dusty, muddy, dented up, some chips, worn areas around the hatches..no black soot at the end of the barrel..but inside the barrel would be silvery/bare steel , faded paint from the sun , some hit marks from the enemy (maybe) , watermarks from rain & or mud / wet or dry. That's about it.
Spare tracks on the tank would not be rusty..maybe if they sat for 20 years.
Countries used "good steel"...if they used crappy steel, then yes, paint would peel off badly & the whole tank would rust out. The Military Spec for Canada & USA is very specific / tedious when it comes to sandblasting & painting in real life. I imagine other countries standards are the same. What I'm getting at is...these vehicles could take a beating & would "not" rust..."everything" is covered in a protective coating..either zinc or epoxy primer. Some parts are "dipped" in big tanks of paint etc...some tanks use synthetic materials/ composites that do not rust at all.
M4A1Sherman
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Posted: Friday, February 20, 2015 - 10:13 PM UTC

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Dennis, Thanks for that quote from your Uncle. It helps a lot!



Hi, Mike! I find that we agree on a lot of things, especially US WWII AFVs and Soft-Skins!!! I didn't forget you- I still need to dig out my 1/35 ITALERI DUKW kit for those wheels/tires that you need for one of your CCKW projects!

Thanks for acknowledging my Uncle's quote! I only met him once. He came from Germany to visit us, when we still lived in Ridgewood, Queens, New York City.

My Dad and my Uncle Walter served in the Polish Army when the Germans invaded in September, 1939. My Dad was in charge of 3 75mm Horse-Drawn Howitzers. My Dad and Uncle came from the Ukrainian city of Lviv in the Western Ukraine, (Lvov, to you non-Ukrainians) which was ceded to Poland as a part of the Versailles Treaty fter the First World War. His column was attacked by Stukas, with German machine gun-equipped motorcycle troops mopping up immediately after the air attack. He was very lucky not to have been injured or killed in that devastating attack. His unit never even had a chance to even fire ONE round in anger...

Dad wound up as a POW, liberated by US forces in 1945. During his confinement and slave-labor, terror and death at the hands of SS prison guards were an every-day threat... After his liberation, he found and fell in love with a German girl, my Mom... What a world!!!

Anyway, it's always great to share knowledge, opinions, and news on this site!!!
M4A1Sherman
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Posted: Friday, February 20, 2015 - 10:22 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Personally, I go for the more artistic look with rust, streaks, and modulation. But then again, I don't care much for replicating a specific vehicle...rather I build and paint the way I want to (which I know is unrealistic). Now, I can certainly understand if you get enjoyment from doing the research and trying to make it realistic. That's awesome; it's just not my cup of tea.

What I hate is when people judge my work as inferior or ridiculous because they don't like the style I use. I just got back from a show recently and some of the judges reamed me because they didn't like the modulation I used, and that really annoyed me.

Again, I enjoy the art of the hobby, and I do respect the hours of research and building that the historical-focus modelers go for. I just wish there wasn't this "that's the wrong way to do ____" mentality for another person's style.

But that's just my 4 cents



THAT'S EXACTLY WHY I GAVE UP going to shows where the judges weren't judging, but seemed to be forcing modellers to build stuff that THEY, not the modellers, were interested in: ONLY HEAVILLY-WEATHERED GERMAN STUFF, ESPECIALLY TIGER Is!!! "Why would you want to build a lightly-weathered AMERICAN VEHICLE?!?", I was asked. What was wrong with my subject?

A. It was a US Army Vehicle. (1/35 TAMIYA M4, corrected and super-detailed with PE and resin bits and pieces)

B. It wasn't covered in MUCK, MIRE & RUST!!! (Lightly weathered with road dirt/dust)

That kind of judging ISN'T JUDGING, and it doesn't do anything for me; It only left a sour taste in my mouth, which I STILL taste, 20 YEARS LATER!!!
M4A1Sherman
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Posted: Friday, February 20, 2015 - 10:24 PM UTC

Quoted Text

not only that but..rust itself is over done. Chipping also. The one area in WW 2 where chipping would be extensive is the desert war. Vehicles being sand blasted.
Vehicles would be dusty, muddy, dented up, some chips, worn areas around the hatches..no black soot at the end of the barrel..but inside the barrel would be silvery/bare steel , faded paint from the sun , some hit marks from the enemy (maybe) , watermarks from rain & or mud / wet or dry. That's about it.
Spare tracks on the tank would not be rusty..maybe if they sat for 20 years.
Countries used "good steel"...if they used crappy steel, then yes, paint would peel off badly & the whole tank would rust out. The Military Spec for Canada & USA is very specific / tedious when it comes to sandblasting & painting in real life. I imagine other countries standards are the same. What I'm getting at is...these vehicles could take a beating & would "not" rust..."everything" is covered in a protective coating..either zinc or epoxy primer. Some parts are "dipped" in big tanks of paint etc...some tanks use synthetic materials/ composites that do not rust at all.



AMEN to THAT!!!
M4A1Sherman
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Posted: Friday, February 20, 2015 - 10:37 PM UTC

Quoted Text

After reading the thread I felt I had to add my 2cents. I'm a realism builder I was an armor crewman for 27 years on 6 different tanks so I build judged on my experiance. I know where the mud builds up, how a crew tracks mud and what rusts. Also the last tank in a colum is covered in dust the first tank is fairly clean, I was the #3 tank PSGs wing man always tail end charlie with Div 86. I looked like I was wearing khakis instead of BDUs. In addition don't forget plant material, if you drive through a field grass and plants get mixed in the mud and soil and they harden into bricks.
When I was in the 11th ACR we had to keep the tanks fully operational but we didn't run around spot painting. Tools were natural wood. One time they were painted for in IG inspection and had to be scraped clean thats what the IG wanted. Also tools are only mounted externally in the field in the motorpool they are locked up unless you want them filling someone elses inventory short fall. US tanks store all tools in the sponson boxes.
Also you can never get the tank totally clean you don't use soap and a scrub brush. You chip at mud and use a hose. A faint patina of dirt will remain.
In Fort Drum and probally elsewhere they recycle the wash rack water so after a few tanks are washed you are spraying the tank with dirty water so it leaves a film after it drys. Its also really nasty for wash rack hose fights and new guy baptisms.
I can appreciate the artistic paint jobs but I know its art and not for me. Its like comparing a gold plated m1 Garand to a surplus one that may have seen action. Its nice to look at but I'll take the shooter.
Contests are a rough thing every judge brings their own prejudice to the judging table. I gave up on them and build for me and an ocasional commission.

Tom



Hi, Tom! I appreciate your input! Earlier, when I mentioned tools with wooden handles, I was referring to WWII vehicles. There's a photo in, I believe, the SQUADRON "U.S. ARMOR Camouflage and Markings of World War II" book that CLEARLY shows US Engineers spraying BLACK PAINT camo patterns on a 3rd AD M5A1- they sprayed the BLACK patterns EVERYWHERE, including over tools, fuel cans, yes, even on the tankers' personal equipment- packs and such!!! This was war, and expediency was the rule. This is only ONE photo, so imagine how many vehicles got the same treatment- "If it don't move, PAINT IT!!!
DocEvan
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Posted: Friday, February 20, 2015 - 10:40 PM UTC
I've always considered modeling to be an impressionistic art, so the weathering is merely one's impression of that subject, plus a little ignorance of real battle and/or usage conditions.

I'm OK with paint fading, shading etc...one has to give the eye something to look at.
M4A1Sherman
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Posted: Friday, February 20, 2015 - 10:56 PM UTC
[quote]I've always considered modeling to be an impressionistic art, so the weathering is merely one's impression of that subject, plus a little ignorance of real battle and/or usage conditions.

I'm OK with paint fading, shading etc...one has to give the eye something to look at.[/quot

Hi, Evan! Sure, that's how I model my stuff- fading, shading, etc. I like where you say, "One has to give the eye something to look at"... The French have a phrase: "Tromp l'oeil", "To fool the eye"... I just don't care for the way overdone stuff that seems to be the style today...
fireontheway
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Posted: Friday, February 20, 2015 - 11:00 PM UTC
Thats why I started helping to judge at last years AMPS show. Tired of watching the artsy tanks win. I am a realist when it comes to models. Not a rivet counter but when it comes to weathering I look for realism. I have 20 some years of Artillery/Armor experience and a few years on Humvees so I call on that to help me. Believe me at a table of 4 judges (myself included) you would be amazed how you have to reign some guys in. But at least I know I have shared my opinion and maybe just maybe got someone to see things in a different perspective. You want a clean tank go to the assembly line. They are rained on, snowed on, baked in the sun, built for war time use not not clear coated by Detroit. We take the best care of them we can with what we have available to ensure they are FMC and will get us into battle as well as out of it. Yes some parts rust, yes some areas chip and they are always for the most part covered in some sort of dirt from top to bottom inside and out. Ok I'm done.
M4A1Sherman
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Posted: Friday, February 20, 2015 - 11:12 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Thats why I started helping to judge at last years AMPS show. Tired of watching the artsy tanks win. I am a realist when it comes to models. Not a rivet counter but when it comes to weathering I look for realism. I have 20 some years of Artillery/Armor experience and a few years on Humvees so I call on that to help me. Believe me at a table of 4 judges (myself included) you would be amazed how you have to reign some guys in. But at least I know I have shared my opinion and maybe just maybe got someone to see things in a different perspective. You want a clean tank go to the assembly line. They are rained on, snowed on, baked in the sun, built for war time use not not clear coated by Detroit. We take the best care of them we can with what we have available to ensure they are FMC and will get us into battle as well as out of it. Yes some parts rust, yes some areas chip and they are always for the most part covered in some sort of dirt from top to bottom inside and out. Ok I'm done.



Hi, Tim! Glad that you're setting some of these guys straight on "What is "REAL" vs. "Artistic License"... I prefer "REAL" over "SCIENCE FICTION"...
M4A1Sherman
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Posted: Friday, February 20, 2015 - 11:24 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Personally, I go for the more artistic look with rust, streaks, and modulation. But then again, I don't care much for replicating a specific vehicle...rather I build and paint the way I want to (which I know is unrealistic). Now, I can certainly understand if you get enjoyment from doing the research and trying to make it realistic. That's awesome; it's just not my cup of tea.

What I hate is when people judge my work as inferior or ridiculous because they don't like the style I use. I just got back from a show recently and some of the judges reamed me because they didn't like the modulation I used, and that really annoyed me.

Again, I enjoy the art of the hobby, and I do respect the hours of research and building that the historical-focus modelers go for. I just wish there wasn't this "that's the wrong way to do ____" mentality for another person's style.

But that's just my 4 cents



Hi, Jonathan! That's ANOTHER example of how BIASED, NARROW-MINDED and OPINIONATED some of these dorks that are picked as judges can really be! I had the same experience, years ago, and not just ONE TIME, either! They're too set in their opinions, everyone else be damned!!! Who are THESE YAHOOS to say, "That's the WRONG WAY to do____"??? THEY didn't build what one spends all that time, research, and work on, even if the model is faithfully reproduced from actual photos of the real thing!!! I just stay away from their nonsense...

I used to do some side-line commissions years ago, and I NEVER had any complaints as to my weathering techniques. Of course, when you custom build stuff for people, there are bound to be a few that want to welsh-out on you, saying that you didn't do such-and-such, or-so-and-so, even though I had SIGNED AGREEMENTS for those specifically commissioned builds. I got out of that nonsense after a few years, because I found that I didn't like deadlines, plus, I was becoming too personally attached to the stuff that I was building!!!

One of the basic tenets of selling is to never fall in love with what you're selling, and here I was, doing EXACTLY THAT!!! D Now I build strictly for my own pleasure- Stuff that I LIKE!!!
RLlockie
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Posted: Saturday, February 21, 2015 - 01:54 PM UTC
You've clearly never tried to climb up a glacis in hobnailed boots. They were added to marching boots to prolong the life of the soles but tank crewmen do much less marching than infantry and it's positively lethal trying to move round on a tank with only metal studs in contact with the armour plate. In the British army at least, crews would not be wearing hobnailed boots. It's hard to imagine that the laws of physics applied differently in other armies.

This was a response to marcb's post at 0458 on 18/02 by the way - 'Reply' seems to assume that I want to reply to the last post in the thread, which I hadn't even seen when I typed it....

In response to the subsequent ones, if you don't like the comments made by comp judges, you're not obliged to enter the comp. There are some I just avoid altogether if i don't rate the judges as what I consider competent - my criteria may differ to those of others though. In any event, it's not as though the results will change your wealth, health or attractiveness to women, so is it really that important enough to get angry about what someone else thinks? Nobody thinks less of someone because their model didn't win, do they?