AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Rust streaks on AFVs - why?
M4A1Sherman
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Posted: Saturday, February 21, 2015 - 02:54 PM UTC

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Interestingly Jonathan I had exactly the opposite experience; I stopped modeling and competitiing in the armor classes b/c it seemed that the judges looked right past my "real weathering" approach and always gave the prize to those models that had the "artistic" panel highlighting /modulation/ rust streak treatments.



Sorry to hear that man. It really sucks when others knock your work just because they don't like your style.



I've seen rusty Zimmerit models. That's not a style, that's not realistic, it's impossible. If you painted a Jagtiger pink it would be more plausible and more artistic than rusty zimmerit.



That's for sure! I'd like to know how a concrete paste (zimmerit) can rust? Just goes to show- more thoughtlessness...
sdk10159
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Posted: Saturday, February 21, 2015 - 03:00 PM UTC

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That's for sure! I'd like to know how a concrete paste (zimmerit) can rust? Just goes to show- more thoughtlessness...



Probably the same way that rust streaks appear on concrete driveways or in bathtubs. THe water carries the rust from the metal and deposits it on whatever
M4A1Sherman
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Posted: Saturday, February 21, 2015 - 03:02 PM UTC

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Personally, I go for the more artistic look with rust, streaks, and modulation. But then again, I don't care much for replicating a specific vehicle...rather I build and paint the way I want to (which I know is unrealistic). Now, I can certainly understand if you get enjoyment from doing the research and trying to make it realistic. That's awesome; it's just not my cup of tea.

What I hate is when people judge my work as inferior or ridiculous because they don't like the style I use. I just got back from a show recently and some of the judges reamed me because they didn't like the modulation I used, and that really annoyed me.

Again, I enjoy the art of the hobby, and I do respect the hours of research and building that the historical-focus modelers go for. I just wish there wasn't this "that's the wrong way to do ____" mentality for another person's style.

But that's just my 4 cents



I couldn't agree more.



Contests shouldn't even be held. I would much prefer to see model shows where modellers have a chance jut to display their work without having these niggling harpies put down work that they don't agree with, or respect!!! I'll bet that these kill-joys never actually build anything of their own because they're too busy inflicting their negative criticism on honest-to-goodness modellers!!!
M4A1Sherman
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Posted: Saturday, February 21, 2015 - 03:09 PM UTC

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That's for sure! I'd like to know how a concrete paste (zimmerit) can rust? Just goes to show- more thoughtlessness...



Probably the same way that rust streaks appear on concrete driveways or in bathtubs. THe water carries the rust from the metal and deposits it on whatever



You're right about driveways and bathtubs... But armor..? Ehhh, I dunno... Haven't we been discussing that there is a noticeable LACK of rust on most armor? Exceptions being vehicles like the USMC LVTP7 and M1 that were illustrated in previous contributions to this thread.
M4A1Sherman
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Posted: Saturday, February 21, 2015 - 03:13 PM UTC

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Interestingly Jonathan I had exactly the opposite experience; I stopped modeling and competitiing in the armor classes b/c it seemed that the judges looked right past my "real weathering" approach and always gave the prize to those models that had the "artistic" panel highlighting /modulation/ rust streak treatments.



Well, there ya go, Mike- it looks like we're not alone in having dealt with these biased judges. aren't judges supposed to be impartial?
M4A1Sherman
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Posted: Saturday, February 21, 2015 - 03:16 PM UTC

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After reading the thread I felt I had to add my 2cents. I'm a realism builder I was an armor crewman for 27 years on 6 different tanks so I build judged on my experiance. I know where the mud builds up, how a crew tracks mud and what rusts. Also the last tank in a colum is covered in dust the first tank is fairly clean, I was the #3 tank PSGs wing man always tail end charlie with Div 86. I looked like I was wearing khakis instead of BDUs. In addition don't forget plant material, if you drive through a field grass and plants get mixed in the mud and soil and they harden into bricks.
When I was in the 11th ACR we had to keep the tanks fully operational but we didn't run around spot painting. Tools were natural wood. One time they were painted for in IG inspection and had to be scraped clean thats what the IG wanted. Also tools are only mounted externally in the field in the motorpool they are locked up unless you want them filling someone elses inventory short fall. US tanks store all tools in the sponson boxes.
Also you can never get the tank totally clean you don't use soap and a scrub brush. You chip at mud and use a hose. A faint patina of dirt will remain.
In Fort Drum and probally elsewhere they recycle the wash rack water so after a few tanks are washed you are spraying the tank with dirty water so it leaves a film after it drys. Its also really nasty for wash rack hose fights and new guy baptisms.
I can appreciate the artistic paint jobs but I know its art and not for me. Its like comparing a gold plated m1 Garand to a surplus one that may have seen action. Its nice to look at but I'll take the shooter.
Contests are a rough thing every judge brings their own prejudice to the judging table. I gave up on them and build for me and an ocasional commission.

Tom



Same here, Tom... If people don't like what I build, they don't have to look at it. That's why I build for my own enjoyment...
barkingdigger
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Posted: Saturday, February 21, 2015 - 09:42 PM UTC
Our club's annual show has a contest, but to make things different we offer only five prizes - "Best in Show" for Armour, Aircraft, Naval, Figures, and Civilian. Every model in the show is a potential winner because our (highly subjective) judges go round all the tables incognito and pick what they like for each category - there have been some pleasantly surprised folks who would never dream of entering a traditional contest! The whole aim is to remove all the hostility that normally surrounds a contest, while still offering some trophies. Better still, there's NO registration, NO fees, and NO separate table with all the best models. (I find it annoying when all the good stuff gets squirreled away in a comp room instead of staying out on the club tables for everyone to enjoy...)

Does the unrealistic but eye-catching rusty/modulated/weathered stuff win? Sometimes. And can a more realistic model win? Again - sometimes. But nobody among the judges will pass any remarks about the modeller's artistic choices, or express any value judgements - that's just plain rude! (That's the best bit about it being a "secret" judging - they can't risk blowing their cover with unwanted remarks.)
ninjrk
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Posted: Saturday, February 21, 2015 - 10:37 PM UTC
One thing I'll toss out there is that from my experience it seems that judging is often like at an art contest, or perhaps based on perceived work. A model with lots of rust, filters, shading, rain marks, and so on is both visually interesting and demonstrates a certain level of effort and skill. It may look like a cartoon but it's a cartoon that took a large degree of time. While it is possible to make a realistic model visually complex and interesting most of the ones that I have seen in shows are painted, pigmented with monochrome dust, and called good. If I were judging a contest and saw two models built with the same degree of skill but one with overdone but skilled weathering such that it looked like an oil painting and another that was not overdone but also visually bland and that looked like significantly less overall work and effort, I'm going with the artistic one as it shows more effort. Now, if I see a well done and visually interesting realistic one, I'm going with that because I've realized how much harder it is to pull that off. Just a thought or two.
Unreality
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Posted: Saturday, February 21, 2015 - 11:08 PM UTC

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One thing I'll toss out there is that from my experience it seems that judging is often like at an art contest, or perhaps based on perceived work. A model with lots of rust, filters, shading, rain marks, and so on is both visually interesting and demonstrates a certain level of effort and skill. It may look like a cartoon but it's a cartoon that took a large degree of time. While it is possible to make a realistic model visually complex and interesting most of the ones that I have seen in shows are painted, pigmented with monochrome dust, and called good. If I were judging a contest and saw two models built with the same degree of skill but one with overdone but skilled weathering such that it looked like an oil painting and another that was not overdone but also visually bland and that looked like significantly less overall work and effort, I'm going with the artistic one as it shows more effort. Now, if I see a well done and visually interesting realistic one, I'm going with that because I've realized how much harder it is to pull that off. Just a thought or two.



And that's a good point. The same effort and skill can go into any style of modeling.
Bravo1102
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Posted: Saturday, February 21, 2015 - 11:29 PM UTC

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One thing I'll toss out there is that from my experience it seems that judging is often like at an art contest, or perhaps based on perceived work. A model with lots of rust, filters, shading, rain marks, and so on is both visually interesting and demonstrates a certain level of effort and skill. It may look like a cartoon but it's a cartoon that took a large degree of time. While it is possible to make a realistic model visually complex and interesting most of the ones that I have seen in shows are painted, pigmented with monochrome dust, and called good. If I were judging a contest and saw two models built with the same degree of skill but one with overdone but skilled weathering such that it looked like an oil painting and another that was not overdone but also visually bland and that looked like significantly less overall work and effort, I'm going with the artistic one as it shows more effort. Now, if I see a well done and visually interesting realistic one, I'm going with that because I've realized how much harder it is to pull that off. Just a thought or two.



I also encountered this when judging so I would document all the weathering with photos of vehicles I had served on. Then the judges could understand what I was doing. Face it they're only people. Considering how they're shanghaied at a show because there's always a shortage of judges, once can't expect unbiased perfection. Kind of reminds me of what the Paris critics thought of the first impressionist painters. (look it up you'll see how our words echo those of a century and a half ago)


Once I displayed a kit in a show held on a military post. The model judges ignored it due to its realistic weathering but the serving soldiers clustered around it and complimented it saying it looked exactly like the tanks they served on. And that felt better than any fistful of medals.
DaGreatQueeg
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Posted: Saturday, February 21, 2015 - 11:46 PM UTC
Aren't contests by nature a bit of a lottery? When comparing two Sherman or two Panthers side by side and entered into the same category which one should get the votes? If the build quality is similar then the Judges usually award what appears to be any extra effort or work and/or the style they prefer. Just seems natural, like it or not and just as bad for either style that loses.

Isn't there one comp that focuses and awards points based on mostly on build quality? IPMS? If so that seems to be the one realistic builders should target and enter ....
landshark4
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Posted: Sunday, February 22, 2015 - 04:29 AM UTC
http://s1065.photobucket.com/user/landshark41/media/IMG_3869_zpsace8739b.jpg.html

First time trying to post a pic. Should be a pic of rust on an Ambrams in transit to somewhere.
landshark4
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Posted: Sunday, February 22, 2015 - 04:34 AM UTC
http://s1065.photobucket.com/user/landshark41/media/IMG_0404_zps7279bb0c.jpg.html

And that should be a BMP-1 Iraqi Army 2011 Baghdad. Note streaks and fading but not a lot of rust or chipping.
wedgetail53
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Posted: Sunday, February 22, 2015 - 04:44 AM UTC
G'day gents

The photo below isof a 50 year old Australian Centurion which has been stored outside - note not only the amount (or lack of) rust, and the amount of crud on the wheels and tracks. This is after driving around a grassy field for about 10 minutes.

More rust pics to follow when I download them from my phone.

Regards

Rob



wedgetail53
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Posted: Sunday, February 22, 2015 - 05:58 AM UTC
G'day gents

Some more photos of the Centurion. First the muffler, which, as far as I know, is original. Even though it gets red hot, note the paint which remains!



Next, turret and stowage bin. Note that, even though there are rust chips, there are NO runs of rust.



Another stowage bin, showing the original British paint underneath. There are a few minor rust streaks from the older wounds under the bin.



Replacement British stowage bins and the turret. Note lack of rust streaks.



Stowage bin again, and no rust streaks.




Episcope and cover - note lack of rust streaks.



The mantlet cover and back of the searchlight. The pattern of dirt and rust around each bolt is interesting.



Happy to discuss.

Regards

Rob
fireontheway
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Posted: Sunday, February 22, 2015 - 08:14 AM UTC
Rob your picture of the Centurion turret with the green replacement bins, appears there are rust streaks all over the turret where the paint has chipped off exposing the bare metal, IMHO.
wedgetail53
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Posted: Sunday, February 22, 2015 - 01:47 PM UTC

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Rob your picture of the Centurion turret with the green replacement bins, appears there are rust streaks all over the turret where the paint has chipped off exposing the bare metal, IMHO.



Tim

Correct - they're the same as the ones I pointed out in photo 3.

Regards

Rob
M4A3E8Easy8
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Posted: Sunday, February 22, 2015 - 02:57 PM UTC

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http://s1065.photobucket.com/user/landshark41/media/IMG_3869_zpsace8739b.jpg.html

First time trying to post a pic. Should be a pic of rust on an Ambrams in transit to somewhere.



This looks like an Abrams that is on the preposition ships that the US keeps around just in case. These tanks sit in a salt air environment on a ship for months. They pull em off and do Preventative maintenance/upgrades as needed and put em back on the boat. This causes lots of rust on exposed metal but no streaking since the tank is stored in doors. You need rain or water flowing across the rust to make a streak. This is how streaks get on non metal surfaces. I am one of the folks that think some rust streaks are fine but it can (and has been) be over done. A little goes a long way...
M4A1Sherman
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Posted: Sunday, February 22, 2015 - 08:14 PM UTC

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http://s1065.photobucket.com/user/landshark41/media/IMG_3869_zpsace8739b.jpg.html

First time trying to post a pic. Should be a pic of rust on an Ambrams in transit to somewhere.



This looks like an Abrams that is on the preposition ships that the US keeps around just in case. These tanks sit in a salt air environment on a ship for months. They pull em off and do Preventative maintenance/upgrades as needed and put em back on the boat. This causes lots of rust on exposed metal but no streaking since the tank is stored in doors. You need rain or water flowing across the rust to make a streak. This is how streaks get on non metal surfaces. I am one of the folks that think some rust streaks are fine but it can (and has been) be over done. A little goes a long way...



I've found that if there are any places where small accumulations of rust would be found, it would accumulate on chains, hinges, exhaust pipes, mufflers and latches. Rob's Centurion pictured above is an excellent illustration of rust- ON A SIXTY-YEAR-OLD TANK!!! However, Daniel's USMC AAVP-7A1 w/EAAK IS a great reference point of a modern vehicle exposed to a lot of salt water, salt air, and the resulting extra oxidation that it will be exposed to. Another excellent representation is Brent's dio of the 1/35 M1 in the desert environment. GREAT model!!!

I keep my rust to an ABSOLUTE MINIMUM, that is, you wouldn't notice it unless you were looking for it, mainly because I like to model relatively new vehicles. Not "factory-fresh" mind you, but not well worn, either. I do take into account a realistic amount of fading in relation to the age of the vehicle I wish to portray. Naturally, I'll include some road dirt and bit heavier amount of dust accumulation in the suspension/sprocket/idler wheel areas, with successively lighter dust accumulations as I move towards the top of the vehicle's sides. As dust likes to settle on the horizontal flat surfaces, I like to add the dust accordingly. IMO, dust is a lot more important than rust. I don't over-do on dust, either, since I still want to portray much of the vehicle's color/s without obscuring them completely...
Bravo1102
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Posted: Sunday, February 22, 2015 - 08:49 PM UTC

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Aren't contests by nature a bit of a lottery? When comparing two Sherman or two Panthers side by side and entered into the same category which one should get the votes? If the build quality is similar then the Judges usually award what appears to be any extra effort or work and/or the style they prefer. Just seems natural, like it or not and just as bad for either style that loses.

Isn't there one comp that focuses and awards points based on mostly on build quality? IPMS? If so that seems to be the one realistic builders should target and enter ....



That would be AMPS, not IPMS. IPMS is "oh that's so pretty First place! Oh one little goof in construction you lose I don't care if you scratch-built the whole thing... or that that seam is actually on the real thing it's still a seam..."

I've judged plenty of IPMS shows and know the criteria. And I never really want to do it again. Fortunately my eyes have gotten to the point I can't do that kind of close examination for long periods of time.


As I've said before, weathering tells a story. So the story should match the vehicle's experience. A Pzkpfw III in Russia miles and miles from any salt water or air shouldn't have rust streaks but an AAV-1 training in the water should. A vehicle driving through rich earth should have clumps of earth and vegetation in the road wheels. Mud splatters everywhere and doesn't confine itself to the suspension. Crewmen often have muddy boots and can track it everywhere over the vehicles.

Wet mud dries unevenly so driving in the mud you can have wet mud over dry mud with dried splatter and fresh splatter. You can have a dusty tank with one spot of wet mud splattered from on puddle.

Weathering tells a story, but make that story credible and believable.
M4A1Sherman
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Posted: Sunday, February 22, 2015 - 09:04 PM UTC

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Because AK makes products and markets the crap out of them. Look at how they package colors, they change one or two of the colors in one kit, then it becomes another one. I'd like to try their streaking products, but I have a hard time justifying it.



Eating my own words, I mail-ordered a few of AK's products to try out on my HO steam locomotives, which are probably THE BEST subjects to portray rust streaking, rust and lime deposits around the steam domes and cylinders, water streaking, ash deposits around the ash-pans, and sand deposits around the sand domes. I want to try these products on some of my 1/24 and 1/25 cars that I want to portray as "abandoned derelicts", too. I'll see what I come up with...
M4A1Sherman
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Posted: Sunday, February 22, 2015 - 09:07 PM UTC

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Just wanted to share some AAV rust. Rust was the bane of our existence, a constant fight that kept us busy when we weren’t in the field. Not the hull, its aluminum but all the nuts, bolts, springs, attachments and the turret. I have nightmares of wire brushes and 15/40. Back when we had the EAAK mounted that stuff would rust and whole sheets of it would fall away. The turrets in the mid-90s looked awful because they were not part of the rebuild/IROAN program. We would have to remove the EAAK and UGWS to send it to Barstow for rebuild and then put that rusty faded EAAK and UGWS on freshly delivered bright and spotless fresh out of the paint shop AAV.
The main thing that rusts now is the roadwheels as they are steel as opposes to the old aluminum wheels prior to RAM/RS modification. Those are just left to rust, not worth the effort to keep them clean. Also all the areas on the muffler that aren’t covered in the thermal coating are rust, but it blends with the brown in the camouflage pretty good. You’ll also find on most turrets a scar on the starboard side near the front at the bottom, that is from the raising the rear plenums and the plenums scrapping against the turret. The two torsion springs on the cargo hatches are always rust poles. The constant flexing causes the paint to chip away and expose the metal. All those ¾” bolts holding the track shrouds on were always just rust covered due to being removed, reinstalled or constantly checked and would leave faint streaks on the shroud.
It was just due to the environment. There were no problems with rust in 29 Palms or at Camp Fuji, but at Camp Pendleton it was a constant battle since we were essentially right on the beach and the worst of all was the constant losing battle against rust on Okinawa. You would return from lunch and the stupid thing would be rusty after spending the morning scrubbing, scraping, oiling and painting. Stupid rust! It showed up more prominently on the older faded vehicles. The LVTs we had in the museum rusted pretty quick too. The LVTA5 Modified we lent for the Flags of Our Fathers movie returned as deck cargo and looked like an oversized Cheetos. The whole thing got sandblasted and returned to its inaccurate paint scheme, which caused other problems. I spent days digging sand out of the oil bath air filters. There are a couple of WWII Life color photographs of LVT1s in training and they to look like Cheetos churning through the water.
Want to be disgusted/horrified? Look at the .50-barrel on the AAV tac-marked 3F309 in the pics below. That’s what happens when you lend reservists your toys. I threw a shot of the tools in just to do. No shinny wood as described earlier but the yellow handle that is on the sledge hammers usually doesn’t get portrayed on models. And that is a normal hammer found on most vehicles.















That LVT-A5 behind one of the AAVP-7s is interesting, too!
SEDimmick
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Posted: Sunday, February 22, 2015 - 09:12 PM UTC
I was a mechanic on Bradleys back in the mid-1990s and I've been an armor modeller since 1988...anyways I've seen penlty of Bradleys with Galvanic corrosion coming from the hull side bolts, where they attach the steel armor plate to the aluminum hull. Its not bright rust color, but more of a dark rust streak coming down the sides of them.

it looks similar to this:



But as a whole, tanks don't get excessively rusty.
M4A1Sherman
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Posted: Sunday, February 22, 2015 - 09:13 PM UTC

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You've clearly never tried to climb up a glacis in hobnailed boots. They were added to marching boots to prolong the life of the soles but tank crewmen do much less marching than infantry and it's positively lethal trying to move round on a tank with only metal studs in contact with the armour plate. In the British army at least, crews would not be wearing hobnailed boots. It's hard to imagine that the laws of physics applied differently in other armies.

This was a response to marcb's post at 0458 on 18/02 by the way - 'Reply' seems to assume that I want to reply to the last post in the thread, which I hadn't even seen when I typed it....

In response to the subsequent ones, if you don't like the comments made by comp judges, you're not obliged to enter the comp. There are some I just avoid altogether if i don't rate the judges as what I consider competent - my criteria may differ to those of others though. In any event, it's not as though the results will change your wealth, health or attractiveness to women, so is it really that important enough to get angry about what someone else thinks? Nobody thinks less of someone because their model didn't win, do they?



Quite right, but I think your opinions fall right in with other modellers' opinions, rather than the judges'...
vettejack
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Posted: Sunday, February 22, 2015 - 10:53 PM UTC
I come from the modeling age of the mid to late 70's, eventually moving up to IPMS and AMPS national judging. I'm in a unique position with model judging since I build armor and yet had a 22 year military career encompassing almost 16 years of flight in the Air Force, but in no way the final word or the infinite expert. I've had numerous opportunities/missions to carry, and drive, armor vehicles (since no one on the crew usually knew how too if we had flown in to austure locations). I've driven BMP's, a T55 or two, T62's, M48's, AML 90's and numerous other Jeep/Land-Range Rover like vehicles over the years.

Bring all this into the modeling world subject matter of when is too much or too little when it comes to armor paint/weathering, etc., I can tell you from the course of time over a 40 year modeling 'career' there has been little movement from what I call the "Verlinden clean dirty". Its the nasty little phenom of armor modeling that somehow has paint/weathering that defies the use and damage of real military vehicles with photographic evidence to the contrary of what seems a less travelled chipped/worn look on the the model that tries to represent the real vehicle, Somehow this consistantly will win a modeling contest to my dismay and bewilderment.

When I judge, I come to accept this 'norm' and try and find the balance between the common sense approach of how a vehicle truely looks in real life compared to the 'clean dirty' usually found on armor models. Its subjective in nature of course but to balance between the two is what I usually go for. My input and constructive criticism to the modeler has never failed me and no words of anger has ever been exchanged (at least to my face) LOL

Yes, the "Tank Art" books (et al) are wonderful, but also subjective. While the arthur of alot of these modeling 'handbooks', IMHO, goes to the other end of the spectrum from Verlinden (and very 'attractive' I might add), there is that question of how true is the representation of any one of his vehicles featured?? To me the final answer is again: subjective. If there is any one author, IHMO, that has tons of time around the real deal, and models to that affect/end, it's Zaloga (et al). And let me make this clear...I endorse no one modeler or author.

Know deep down that the rusting hulk you want to portray truely may not be accurate and overdone if the vehcile is still operational, or, if found in a tank graveyard, not ENOUGH rust could be an issue. Those chips you may have placed on your Abrahms may be way overdone and excessive (crews of active vehicles and aircraft to the most part maintain them to impecable condition, I know I did)! Balance your vehicle as much as you can...combine multiple techniques. Always know when to say when...

Go to contest! Do your research! Get your hands on the real deal photo of the vehicle(s) you wish to replicate. There is no excuse today for lack of reference photos...the web gives you endless choices. Count the number of photos on the not-modeled-that-often-boring-piece, the M47! Just that vehicle alone numbers into the thousands when it comes to photos!

What is my answer to that balance I seek in judging and my own personal builds? Build how you feel and feel your build.

In the end...go out and model my friends!