Been working on the tracks. I use this jig from Hobbytrax which makes the magic tracks much easier.. Once the glue has set a little while I put the tracks on the model and use pieces of foam ear plugs to get the sag I want.





Once everything is completely dry the tracks and all the road wheels sprockets etc slide off for painting.

Got the turret done as well. I usually don't try to put figures in the side hatches on Pz 3's, but may make an exception this time.





the figure is from a Dragon set. Also need to clean up some putty around the gun mantlet.

Guy,

Nice technique with the tracks. The panzer III is looking mighty nice.

Mark

Thanks Mark,
Still debating what markings to use. I found a picture on the internet that looks really good, but I need to dig through my decals box to make sure I have everything.

Guy, that track sag looks perfect and I can't wait to see the crew in there when it's all painted.

To all, I'm a little confused on the German fall camo for the fall/winter overalls like in Dragon Models 6509. There are a few different patterns I found pictures of. Any help in making up my mind would be appreciated, like definitive color reference photos. I just can't narrow it down. Please and thank you.

Guy,

Maybe you should base the markings on which campaign and division/regiment/battalion you want the Pz III assigned too. Be careful that you may end up using markings for a command vehicle that isn't one. Most units had colorful markings early in the war and very little or none late in the war.

Me, I would like to see armor vehicle marked up like they do with war planes.

Mark

Charlie-66 nice Panzer III! Where did that crew figure sitting in the turret side hatch come from? I really think he looks great there.

I had planned on posting the build in one go, showing it from start to finish. Just something a little different. I ran in to a bit of a problem so I'll go ahead and post what I have until I can fix it.

I'm building CyberHobby's Sd.Kfz.250 Neu (9149). It's okay looking. It comes with a figure set...Armored Recon Wiking Division (Hungary 1945). It also comes with PE doors for the exterior storage bins. Of course, indie tracks.

I began by pre-painting the lower hull, roadwheels, and some of the fighting compartment.


I started with the multi-piece lower hull...which I dislike. Fit was not great...note the gaps. In hindsight I should have placed the driver's firewall to act as a jig to set the sides. As is, they are angled inward at the top a bit. It would have made placing the fighting compartment, firewall, and driver's seats easier.
Suspension arms are delicate...really delicate. And they seemed determined to avoid lining up.


Once I got that setup, I turned to the tracks. They are indie links. The U-shaped links fit together. You add the rubber track pad and it covers the connection points. If you are careful, you can make them workable. As an aside, these tracks are similar to Zvezda's but the rubber pads fit alot easier.
Used two wooden sticks as a guild. I placed 5-7 links and then added the rubber pads. It went quickly and they look good.


I painted the tracks using Rustoleum dark gray auto primer. I like the graininess and the texture it gives them...it also works well for tires.Tracks mounted well.
I didn't get a picture but I will dry-brush them heavily with red-brown, then a light drybrush of steel. The rubber pads will get painted Tamiya Dark Gray.


Fighting compartment components assembled. Some had been pre-painted. I went ahead and painted the side interiors.


I went back and assembled the front suspension.


The instructions for the driver and radio operator's vision blocks are vague. It would have been nice to position them open. Maybe mold them in clear styrene or with the armored glass clear and separate parts.
The intake grills are typical nylon mesh. PE would have been nice. I added a styrene strip to back them and give added support.
Front fenders went together easy. I left off the pioneer tolls and convoy marker posts until later.


Fighting compartment side walls. Dragon filled the sides with raised position lines for heaven knows how many variants. I forgot to do it before I painted...that's my little mess-up I spoke about earlier. The cover for the storage bin...I would cut that off later and just have it open. I also would change out the ammunition holder for the MP40 for two infantry MP40 ammo pouches. That's just a little quirky detail I wanted in there.


Inside upper section of the fighting compartment mostly assembled and base painted. I added the instrument panel and radio. I left the rifles out of the rifle rack until they could be painted.


Side walls added to hull. Rifles added. You can see the canvas MP40 pouches. I added two gasmasks and an ammo holder for the MG42. I probably will add a MP40 from the spares. Spare armored glass painted. Seats painted and you can see where I cut the storage box cover.
Also, I have built a coupel of the Dragon/CyberHobby halftracks. Fit has always been a problem. I test fit the top and found that the firewall needed to be notched behind the radio so the top can fit properly.



Anyway, that's where I am. I have to go back and try to remove the raised locator lines on the side walls. Other than that, assembly should wrap up soon-after. I probably won't add a crew or build the supplied figures. I have plans for this for a project.

Alex,

I can see why you are having fit issues the tooling for this model is twenty years old, yet you are doing a wonderful job of putting it together.

Mark

Bryan,
I'm posting the box art from the set he came in. I'll probably use the tank commander figure as well.

Maybe you should base the markings on which campaign and division/regiment/battalion you want the Pz III assigned too. Be careful that you may end up using markings for a command vehicle that isn't one. Most units had colorful markings early in the war and very little or none late in the war.

Me, I would like to see armor vehicle marked up like they do with war planes.

Mark[/quote]

Mark,
here's what I'm debating for markings. Both pictures are of the Ausf. F with the older style Cupola and the 37mm main gun. There were some Ausf F's that were built or retrofitted with the 50mm gun and newer cupola, and of course there mix and match vehicles built during the transition. I plan on doing a 50mm Ausf F this year as well.

The first pic caught my eye because that vehicle is included in the decals that come with the kit. It still retains the "tarn klappe" on the turret roof that was deleted during the production run of the Ausf F.



the second image I found on the internet. Also an Ausf F, but in this case without the tarn klappe. It would be a simple thing to remove the tarn klappe from the kit at this point if I decide to go with this vehicle.

Charlie-66,

The tank in the second picture looks to be from the 11th Panzer Divison, 15th Regiment, 3rd Company the 5th tank attached to Army Group Centre during Barbarossa and the drive to Moscow in 1941.

The first picture looks like a Panzer III Ausf E because it is missing the Rommel Kit (storage box) on the rear of the turret. Also the markings look to be a signal or command tank from the 1st Panzer Divison 3rd company during the French Campaign.

Mark

Mark, they are both F's. They both have the armored covers for cooling the brakes added on the F on the front armored plate. the Rommel kiste is not a totally accurate indicator as they were frequently back fitted to earlier models.

Charlie-66,

I sure you are right about which version that first tank is, but my gut tells me it a Ausf E. Which means I am very likely wrong..LOL. Well which ever way you go I sure it will be fine build. I have a liking for Panzer IIIs.

Mark

Mark,
I've circled the armored vents for cooling the brakes. if you look on page 3-2-39 of Panzer tracts No.3-2 you'll see this picture along with the caption from Jentz and Doyle identifying it as an Ausf. F

I need feedback and help. These two images are from the same photo, one cropped so it enlarges and the failure of my first attempt at the oak leaf pattern becomes much more apparent. I'm putting these here to ask for any suggestions, other than using smaller brushes, which I'm off to buy. I have reference photos, so that's how I know how unlike the real thing this looks. Any help would be appreciated.

got a lot of the painting done, and the first layer of weathering. lot's to clean up, and pin wash and dot filter to do.

Guy,

The weathering is looking really good. That is really one nice looking Panzer III.

Mark

Thanks Mark!

Some good builds going on here. Couple progress pics on my T-34 Mod 1941:

I didn't like how the PE engine deck mesh supplied with the kit looked so I made new mesh of my own, looks much more like the real thing.

As I got no complaints about the StugIIIb rebox, I've got going


The kit comes with Dragon's standard Pz.III/IV tracks with the solid guide horns so, because I'm cheap, I spent some merry evenings hollowing them out



The hard work is done....

Great start on the Stug!

Dragon Campaign 2018. Decided to do 1/700 USS Philippine Sea CG-58 (7045). It has some PE.

I know im a little late joining but i was wondering can i still join this campign. I am currently working on Dragons M1A1 AIM. Totally out of the box no aftermarket parts.

Finished painting and weathering the engine. Normally, i would ad oil, dirt dust etc in the mix, but in this case, almost nothing will be visible, so this is where i stop. Btw, for a base coat, its my first go at Mission Models paints. They are awesome.

Of course you can still join
There is nothing in the rules that says anything about how started the kit can be (how much work that has been done before the start of the campaign).
/ Robin