Very nice work, Peter. I have to quit being lazy about grab handles.

I'm also glad to see you had a bath.

Great job Peter. You did a lot more detailing than I. The camo net in the front basket is a great addition.

Olivier

Well it was club meeting day Gaz and I thought I'd better have a bath or social distancing would have been greater than 1.5 m or you would have tossed me out

You got to see it in the flesh today, I hope you still liked it!


Just little things added Olivier. I can be a detail freak - just ask Gaz.... , which is not always a good thing. I could have got away with just adding the chains and cables...

Interesting way to install the tracks, Peter. Only one half of the road wheels first. Never saw that before. But I have to remember that next time I build a tank.

My M 110 is making some slow progress as I focus on the Leopard 2A4GR at the moment. But paint is on the hull and wheels and I just did come convicts work - painting 152 track pads by hand. Fortunatly I use the old US tracks and not the newer Diehl ones, otherwise it would have been 304 pads. On the Leopard they are 336 ....

Good to hear that you can have your club meetings again. We don't .... We meet in a museum every 3. Saturday of the month, the museum is open again already but we're not yet allowed to have our club meetings there. Thinking about meeting in a tavern for a while.

Torsten

I like doing the tracks this way, as it lets you build the track, get the right number of links and Tension, then you can remove them and paint them after the hull halves are joined. You have to be careful to make sure there is room for the drive sprocket and idler too. In this case, I had to remove most of the "Tube" on the back of the idler face, as there was no way it was going in the hole in the rear half with the moulded on front fender section in place. Fortunately, there is still enough room for the Drive Sprocket to be slid in place and secured properly later - in fact they are not even glued yet but you can see them snug in the pics.

The added bonus is, when they have poly caps or similar, you can put the fully painted ones on, then push the poly cap on so it is good and tight up to the end of the torsion bar. No wobbly wheels that way.

Hi guys
nice jobs to all.great builds

now i have space in my bench ,i will start this kit for campaign.
revell 1/72 LKW 10t.mil gl



majid

Welcome aboard Majid. Looking forward to seeing your entry done!

Majid, I'm looking for that kit in 1/35 to join my MAN 5 to gl ....

I completely forgot to show you the progress on my M 110. But this step is at least 2 weeks old. I will put this kit on a re-start, now that my Leopard 2 is nearly finished ....

How can a Bundeswehr campaign NOT have any Leopard 1's in it?
I'll remedy that, then! With a Leopard 1A4.... as soon as I have finished some other builds and the required paint comes in.

I'm going to put the base color on the ATF Dingo 2 tonight!

How dare you put this build on hold Torsten!

The M110 is looking nice.

Welcome aboard Ron. Yes a noticeable hole in the line up being filled.

Great Richard. I'm hoping to prime the PZH 2000 over the weekend, the same time as I do the FIST for the 20/20 build. I have to have the FIST done in the next 2 weeks...

Funny enough I've got a Leo 1A3 that keeps nudging me to get it started! But like you I have to clear out some ongoing projects first.

Phew! Lucky me that you are Peter and not Greta, otherwise I would be doomed now ....

So, quickly a proof of my work in the last 2 days ....

Yes, I remember those seem lines from the M107 I built eons ago....

Nice to see progress.

Got the base color put on the ATF Dingo 2.



I'm going to try using Silly Putty to mask off the areas for the green (bronze green or NATO green). I've never done it this way so we'll see how it turns out.

Have done a bit of work on my M 110 ....


Still a long way to go but she's getting there ....

Coming along very nicely guys.

Deploying the "Panzerwaffe" with a Leopard 1A4...
I thought I'd do a quick "in between" campaign. Keep it simple. Just the tank, glue and paint. No base, figures, bells or whistles. And I opted for Tamiya's Leopard 1A4 in 1/35. From 1979. It will be the first modern tank in quite a while. Last one I did, was Academy's Merkave with minerollers, I believe. Which must've been at least 20 years ago. So it will take some getting used to, again.


The kit has its flaws and I am not talking accuracy issues here. The muzzle opening is off center as are the return roller axles. So far. But there was some filling to be done.
But so far the wheels fit, the turret too and I think I got the barrel acceptably straight and flush. I amputated the commander's legs, so that he would fit in the hatch. Don't know if I'll use him, though.

Good to see some old kits getting a viewing Ron.

The Shep Paine build and proposed old timer one for next year shows plenty of guys have stuff in the stash, they just need incentive to move it to the bench.

A bit of work on the Takom M47. My usual tendency is to do everything else, and then fit the crew, if any. Consequently, I'm pretty tired of the project by then and the figgies are rushed and who knows what kind of stresses the completed kit are subjected to. So, in a bid to be different and create a better model I've built basic structures to support the crew with bits of sprue and Evergreen sheet where required.



Despite Covid 19 I received these metal figures from Dolp Zinnafiguren in Germany. They've been assembled with CA and and seams filled with milliput which was smoothed with wet cotton buds. I'm trying to avoid sanding lead and resin whenever possible.



NOw time to play with their link and length tracks. However, they don't give any spare parts and a friend who built the kit found himself 3 links short. Takom sent him the whole sprue so he could complete his kit.

Apparently if you don't snug up the links too tightly, you can make it work. In other words: Get it all done before the glue has time to set.

Happy modelling!

Gaz

Gaz, those metal figs look real good - I may need to get some myself! Good luck on the tracks. I've only built one Takom kit like that (the T29E3) and indeed those little gaps between links sure do add up if you scrunch them up too close!

Ron, I've built that kit in 2015 during the "50 years Leopard 1 Campaign". As far as I remember the kit fits well together, but it misses the snow growsers on the front glacis. You might look for a spare part.

Gary, yes, that figures look great! Never heared of that company before. I have found this nice photo of Bundeswehr tankers from 1957. Of course the title is rubbish. In 1957 the Bundeswehr had no Leopard 1. It's most likely an early M 48.

Did some work on the M 110 in the last few days and like to show you my efforts. The gun is done ....

What a beast! In front you can see a 1 Euro coin. The complete length is around 275 mm!

.... some parts are moveable. I won't glue the front part of the gun to the rest because of transport reasons when this beast will go to models shows ....

.... and a first test fitting ....



Have a nice Sunday!
Torsten

Looks good Torsten! That thing sure does look like a monster!

I'm working on the green color for my ATF Dingo 2. I'm using silly putty for masking for the first time. I'm just doing it one side at a time.



I like using silly putty more than I thought I would. I'm able to get better curves than I can just using tape.

I'm also using Vallejo Model Air paint for the first time as well. It seems to dry a LOT faster than the Tamiya acrylics that I normally use.

Great to see some movement on the build front.

Yep, best way to do figures is before the rest is done and the itch to start a new project gets too much. Good luck with the tracks. There are always these, if you are game:


It is a chunk of gun there Torsten but it is not as long as the PZH2000's (who says size does matter!!!)

Glad you like the way the putty and Vallejo worked out Richard. One tip you might want to use is when you mask for paint, is before spraying your camo colour, spray the edge of the mask with the base colour. This will mean any bleed under the putty/mask will be the same colour as the mask covers and when you spray the camo, the chance of camo bleed is then greatly diminished, especially with matt paints. Of course avoid spraying into the mask, spray over it toward the center of the camo colour - that avoids the paint being pushed under the mask too.

I recommend Vallejo painted retarder 70.597. One drop is all that is needed to slow to drying time. HTH