I started building my 1/16 full option Leopard 2 A6 this evening, and so far it has been pure fun. I built a full option Tiger 1 a year ago and had a few "lessons learned". The Leopard has a ton of parts and to keep them under controll I invested in a cheap drawer with lots of space for small parts. Following the instructions step by step while building the technical gizmos was another leasson learned. I will not screw it up this time.
Since the kit is very expencive this one will be OOB, and probably be on display most of the time. So far I have worked for aprox three hours and have finished the powerpack with gearbox and motors. I will keep you all posted on the work on this string. Feel free to ask any questions about the kit. If you have any good advices about the kit please let me know.

Cheers
Erik


Gearbox before adding ceramic grease


I did a quick count of the parts in the gearbox, and ended on 97.


Motors added and the powerpack is completed.

P.S Sorry for the "yellowish" pictures. I forgot to set the white balance

Looks good, although I think you need to add a few more gears in there as it doesn't look "full enough" :-) :-) :-) Looking forward to seeing it complete. "Q"

I can't wait for the video of it up and running..... :-)

Hey.....its teriffic.........some gear -box ........ ...still recon it should be converted to a Dachs :-) :-) :-) :-)
Keep going
aye
BARV
(GOSMG)

[quote]Since the kit is very expencive this one will be OOB, /quote]

Well, that turned out to be a lie. I have bought some metal AM parts to outfit the tank "as cool as possible".

The picture is a bit difficult to see, but this is the content of the set
1. Small part set (mostly handels)
2. Front set (Mirrors etc.)
3. Tow shcels and bolts
4. Turret Handholds
5. Loaders Machine gun
6. Rear stowe baskets
7. Improved Idler system
Still missing the metal sidesteps, but they are in the mail.

The tank will have metal tracks as well. I'm not sure if it will be a waste of time weathering the tracks. The paint will probably just come of during driving, or...?


I bought a gun stabilizer as well. I want to get that gyro effect on the barrel in though terraine. Does it work? I have no idea yet. I have put a standard lighter next to one of the road wheels just to show the size of this beast.

The building process is straight forward, following the plans. So far I think the quality of the kit is exellent. I use super glue for most of the lower hull to make it strong enough for "rough" terraine. My Tiger 1 had to go through some major repairs due to the lack of strenght in ordinary glue. I have made all the road wheels (which each has 14 parts), shock absorbers (which works as the real thing), improved idlers, and "finished" the lower hull (which is as big as a medium row boat). No pictures of it yet, since it is covered with masking tape and need another stroke of paint. And yes, you need a LOT of paint for this model. I'm using Tamiya Acrylics and I'm starting to realize why the plans advice you to use spray cans.

Cheers
Erik

P.S I think it is safe to recommend this kit for all of you, if you can afford it. I saved money for allmost two years before I bought it. And Steve, No - It will NOT be converted to a Dachs

A little update on the building.
I have started to install some aftermarket parts (Idler), and given the lower hull its base color. Still need some touch ups though. I use a hell of a lot of paint due to the large areas which needs to be airbrushed. All 14 road wheels have been installed and the kit comes along according to plan. All fittings are very good. Here are some pictures:


This has been the most nerve wrecking experience so far. To install AM idlers I had to rework the toothing in the tank bowl. I had my doubts about starting to file away on a 1000$ modell, but it went very well, mostly because of doing it slowly and constantly dry fitting.


A shot of the dry fitting of the AM idler system. The improved idler system has the possibility to adjust the tracks in multiple positions, while the original Tamiya system has only the possibility of two positions.


This is a "overall" shot of the Idler, front road wheel and one of the shock absorbers. The Shock works as the real thing with a tiny spring connected to a metal rod.

More to follow

Erik

Your doing a great job there my friend -------more !!-more!!------when you get back .... " love it to bits"..........and you found time to go fishing???????
aye
BARV
(GOSMG)

ps..........notice .....no mention of "D"

A short sunday update
The lower hull has been completed. Well, thats not completly true. Still need some paint here and there.


As you can see I use AM metal tracks. They look much better than the plastic tracks which come with the kit. Getting them on was allmost like the real thing, hard and difficult work.


All parts have been installed at the rear. I could not resist to detail the pintle hook with some brass wire to replicate the locking mechanisme. I think it turned out quiet well. The pintle hook needed a bit of filler and some sanding. The tow schackels are metal AM parts which gives a more realistic look because of their weight. The exhaust has been pre shaded and I have to do something with the cat eyes. They did not turn out the way I wanted.


An overwiew picture. The Powerpack fits like a glove, and drive shafts and drive sprockets went on without problems. I have to take off the tracks again, to remove a track link from each track. The tracks is a bit to long for the configuration.

More to follow

Erik

Are those working shocks? Where did you get the AM parts?

Paul

The shocks come with the kit. About 5 pieces including a tiny spring each. And Yes they works. You can also see the torsion bars which works as the real thing. I bought the AM parts here: Tankzone

Cheers
Erik

Hi Coolstud
I'm not at home at the moment. Will post more pics later. Installed the sound unit, some wires and leds after the latest pics. But as you probably know, this model is expencive so I have to put in some overtime to afford it.

Cheers
Erik

Due to a busy week at work and finishing my little Leopard my Monster Cat has been set a side for a while. Well. I have started working on it again, and here is a little report. I have installed the sound unit and wireing to the DMD unit in the lower hull. Head lights has been installed and the optical fibers have been connected. I did a mistake, and switched the fibers, and had to take the lights apart and fix it. Very nice when you use Super Glue. The build stopped itself today, due to lack of paint. Got to buy a bottle of clear orange tomorrow. Here are some pictures:


Sound unit and a lot of wireing


Optical fibers and light unit (Black box)


Head lights and some AM parts



Cheers
Erik

Lol stop posting pics you're making me jealous :-)

I still can't decide which one to buy.....

Planning on buying a Tamiya RC tank this autumn!

Martin

Hey, Martin
You simply have to buy the Leo 2 A6 and convert it to a dutch A6. I have been playing with the guys from 44 Mech Bn/43 Mech Bde during NRF 4, and their A6's are just awesome. Very cool looking with the FN Mag instead of the MG 3.

Erik

Some new pictures on a Thursday evening:


Headlights and AM parts. Headlights went on without any major problems. Hint: read the instructions.


An overwiew of the front. The mirrors come with "mirror stickers". I can't really see the point, because you can't see them. The hatch slides open as on the real thing.


Inside the top hull. Optical fibres went on rather easily.


Top of the hull with AM parts, mainly handles for the different hatches. The handles needed som filing, but not anything major. Fittings were very nice.


Rear shot. The rear lights were a pain in the *** to get right. Be extremely precise when cutting the optical fibers. Follow the instructions.


The rear lights need some gloss varnish after a bit of rough handling during installation. The Mudflaps are made of rubber and replicates the real thing nicely.


A shot of the hull and lower part of the turret. Notice the lighter for scale dimension. The side steps will be changed for AM parts in metal as soon as they arrive from the UK.

And a last one:

Mr Tamiya wants me to add this sticker to the rear sideskirts. YEAH, RIGHT...!!!! LIKE THAT WILL EVER HAPPEN!!!


More to follow in a couple of days

Cheers
Erik

A short technical update to day


1. DMD-unit, the brain of the Tank. Everything is operated through this unit. Do I know how it works? No. Do I care? No, not as long as it works.

2. Recoil unit. This motor will simulate the gun recoil from each round fired.

3. Turret rotation unit. This motor will rotate the turret

4. Gun elevation servo. This servo will elevate and plonche the main gun. It also brings the gun to loading possicion after being fired.

5. Gun barrel stabilizer. This unit keep the gun in a straight line while crossing rough terrain. Simulates the gyro stabilizer on a real tank. Hope it works, because this will be really cool.


Turret- and recoil unit finished.

The upper hull has got it's first layer of paint, but need another coat before I post any pictures of it.

Cheers
Erik

THE CAT ROARS FOR THE FIRST TIME!

At 0001 hours the cat woke to life for the first time. I used yesterday mostly for building and a run to clear out the glue fumes, and here is the result. Still need to set the wireing in an orderly fashion, but I just had to try it. I crancked the volume controle to max and turned on the radio. The sound was terrific!!! Everything worked nicely, and I even tried som "off roading" in my living room. No problem at all. I have not tested the light system yet, since it still masked off, but I'm pretty sure they will work as well. Will build the rest of the turret tomorrow. And now - Back to some trial outs.

Cheers
Erik

If you had converted it to a Dachs ...you could have hid all that in the "command sponsons" :-) :-) ------yes????
Got a licence for indoor X country for that beast
:-) :-) :-) ...go for it ...its....... "MAGIC" ...more....more
aye
BARV
(GOSMG)