Friday, April 13, 2012 - 02:48 AM UTC
Archer Fine Transfers have released some new items this month and a new guide for using their eyeball decals and which can also be used as a guide to painting your figures eyes. Take a look inside for details.
Here I have included the text provided by Archer Fine Transfers for these products.

DRY TRANSFERS
AR35362 - Sherman Basics - 1/35 scale
Sheet contains stars, bumper codes and registration numbers to outfit one Sherman tank with basic markings. The vast majority of Sherman tanks serving in Europe during WWII had no other markings and this sheet will let you build a Sherman with any early or late registration numbers and bumper code unit markings. Comes with detailed instructions.
$7.95

AR35363 - Modern US insignia stars - 1/35 scale
Sheet contains post-WWII black US insignia stars. 16" and 20" sizes for M113 APC, M557 APC, M551 Sheridans, Softskins, etc. 36" stars for the front of M60/M60A1/M60A3 tanks. This sheet compliments our sheet of smaller black stars - AR35322. Comes with instructions.
$6.95

WATERSLIDE DECALS
AR77024 - Early WWII German tactical symbols (1935 - 1942) - 1/35 scale
Sheet includes all tactical symbols in use during this time period. Includes instructions and identity of each symbol.
$6.95

AR77025 - Late WWII German tactical symbols (1943 - 1945) - 1/35 scale
Sheet includes all tactical symbols in use during this time period. Includes instructions and identity of each symbol.
$6.95

AR88072 - CLEAR DECAL FILM
Used to convert dry transfers into waterslide decals. This IS NOT Wet Medium Paper.
Two-sheet package of ultra-thin Clear Decal Film used to apply dry transfers as wet decals. Simply rub down the dry transfer onto the film, trim and apply like a regular waterslide decal. Use of setting solution to get transfers to conform to the most minute details. Comes with instructions.
$9.95

The human eye
The illustration above shows the appearance of a human eye under average lighting conditions. Notice that the iris occupies half the width of the visible eyeball and is partially covered at the top, and to a lesser degree at the bottom by the eyelids. Trim the decal to achieve this appearance. The only time you will want to see the entire iris is when your figure's expression is one of shock.

Before applying eye decals you should completely paint the "whites" of the eyes including any shading or washes used to accent the lines between the eyeball and eyelids. Note in the illustration that the eyeball should be shaded in the corners to avoid a "pop-eye" effect. The only part of the eye that should be pure white is where the decal will go.

After you have removed the decals you want from the sheet trim the top and bottom and one side leaving a little extra for a "handle" on the other side. The decals are printed on a continuous clear film. Use a haemostat or tweezers to grasp the handle and score through the clear film on the handle side of the eye decal. This will allow the iris to separate from the handle side when moistened.

Apply them the same as you would any decal. It is best to moisten the kit eyeball with Micro-Set first to improve their adhesion. Once they are completely dry, a small drop of Micro-Sol setting solution can be applied to insure that they conform to the kit. Once dry they may be coated with either a gloss acrylic clear or Future floor wax. A thick layer of solvent based clear could ruin the eyes.
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