Saludos Amigos!
Another day off, and a bit of 'Dabbling'!
Hello David, that would be awfully kind of you to knock up 'the block'... What do you reckon 'Magic Maple' or 'DS Douglas Fir'? One thing that puzzles me a bit though, is why it would be needed if the internal gun travel lock was adequate enough for negotiating rough terrain, why would a support be needed when parked or being transported? Hmmm! Thanks again David.
Whilst the placing of the 'Tiger Guts' carries on, let us turn our attentions to 'Tracks'!
With many AM manufacturers out there in Tigerland producing the 'workboots' for the Tiger 1, choices are varied, and often for personal or aesthetic reasons. For me a crisp set of workable 'dead' tracks with a link count as close as possible to the actual vehicles run is my choice.
I know that I have come over as a Friulmodel dissenter of late, due to dissatisfaction with the link count being way short often (I think this is due to the movement in the track due to the track pin holes having rather a roomy fit! Or perhaps mould deterioration with my sets? Some looked crisper than others that appeared rather soft!) Which either means pushing the idler back beyond its operational confines, or dropping far to many links, in order to get the sag from the sprocket to gently curve onto the third roadwheel. Ah Well... At least they are metal and easily blackened and the contact surfaces can be polished!
I will keep 'sampling' the and fiddling about with the pin to link mating to see if I can boost the link count... But with so many other options available... Lets have some 'Track Tapas' for starters...
Tasty morsels all in their own right!
Whilst we have covered all the resin options
available, previously in this saga, I have not yet looked in depth at the Styrene Injection Moulded offerings. These AFV Club, and Modelkasten's remarkable sets.
First up the AFV Club take on workable tracks.
This two piece track system for the Tiger 1, come in two backs already removed from the sprue, with very little flash or clean up needed. One small area of concern is the mould's pin ejector marks on the inside surface of the link... Though this sanded out rather easily, and are not as deep as they look. At around £10 these are really worth the money, and quite quick to put together.
All that is required is a dab of liquid cement on the area that takes the jointing section with the guide horns, then squeeze together whilst fitting the next jointing part into the back of the ling you are completing, before placing this onto the next link and continuing the process... But don't get to giddy, and complete a full 94-96 link length, leave it a couple short, as it is easier to add links without compromising the tracks rather than removing links!
Rather nifty eh? And they articulate very nicely, not dissimilar to some of the resin sets! Another tiny concern on these tracks though is, with the links only being joined in the central area between the guide horns, they do 'flex' at either side quite a lot. But as long as you are relatively gentle with them, this should not be too much of an issue!
Next up Modelkasten, and their version of the injection moulded workable track!
These little wonders come still attached to sprues, though the attachment points are very fine and are easily and quickly cleaned up.
As you can see the track links come one one 'branch' with the pins and guide horns incorporated upon another (the pins are ready mounted on their own unique applicators, four for the sub assemblies, and an individual one for track length assembly! Trick eh?) One small down side is the separate guide horns... I can hear the groans of Tiger modellers everywhere who have ever had to affix the spare track ones from DML Tiger 1 kits!
Though these horns from Modelkasten, do affix easier, and with the correct asymmetry on the profile (a softer gradient upon the inside vertical face) they do sit a lot better than the DML version, and up to now are extremely tough for such a small separate part!
Within the sturdy box you get a 'jig' for assembly of the five link sub lengths, that makes construction extremely easy.
Lay the links into the bed of the jig.
insert the four applicator mounted pins on either side.
The very slightest dab of cement.
And then when you have completed, 18, five link runs, use the singly mounted pin applicator to make up your track length.
Remember to make up to a 'fitted' length of around 93-95 depending upon track fit when fitting to the vehicle.
Then it is time to get seriously 'horny' ... This may take some time!
With all this done, it is time to perhaps have a look at how they all sit upon the sprockets and idlers!
Well mull it over chaps! Something fro everybody's pocket and personal taste... My favourites you ask? Masterclub and WWII Productions dainties!
Right I'll get back ASAP with the Tigers...
Cheers Phil.
