Ralph: Wow, I bet that was challenging to say the least. I have been looking at mine in the box and keep convincing to hold off on it for just those reasons... Yours looks like it came together nicely overall.

Edoardo: I second G's "moremoremore!"

G: Are your kit's tracks regular styrene or Magic Tracks?

Jeremy I've had it happen with the old indys from an Imperial Series StuG, Magic Tracks from a Mk IV F (F1) Smart kit, and Tamiya's own AM indy links for a Panther G.

All seemed to be just a skoshie bit too small when I put them back on after painting.

G

Did you use the same type/brand glue on each set?

Yes I did. I used Tamiya's extra thin liquid in all instances.

I use the sticky side up masking tape trick, a steel straight edge, and lots of patience.

Then I slather Tamiya cement on the tracks and wait for a bit until it sets up. I cut the tape and remove the track run as a whole. After removing the tape I form the tracks around the running gear, leaving it to set up overnight.

The next day I removed the tracks, setting them aside for painting. I usually just tack the wheels/sprockets/idlers on to make this easier. In all three builds it seems that the tracks shrank just enough to make remounting problematic.

I have left these on the Mk III for three days now. I checked earlier and found to my surprise they now exhibit the same signs of shrinkage. I left some slack to allow for the paint, which seems to have disappeared.

Am I nutts, well more nutts than I already am?

G

No, you're not any more nutts than usual G

Let me run my thought by you real quick. I normally use Testors glue for plastic, which as you no doubt already know is a hot glue which melts the plastic. I avoid using it on indy links because of this reason. I've actually had it melt through some thinner parts before. Now if the Tamiya liquid cement is also hot, it may be causing the shrinking effect that you are experiencing as it fuses the links together.

I'm not saying that I know this is what is happening, but it may be worth considering. If this is the case however, then you may want to try Gator Glue. I just used it on a 1/48 Hetzer and experienced no problems whatsoever.

Hi Wayne,

I am mainly a braille scale affectionado, so I usually glue the tracks in place. I therefore don't have your problem. I have been pondering what you describe and wonder if it is the tracks 'relaxing' after being put under a strain (undoubtedly light) whilst fixed around the running gear. Once you remove the tracks the slight strain is removed and a small amount of shrinkage is experienced as the tracks 'relax'. This is only a thought and doesn't offer a solution, only a possible reason.

All the best,

Paul

Hi Guys, thanks for the complements

@ Edo, i really like the look of your burnt out tankett there, what did you use to get that great rusted burnt look

@ Zon and Ralph, 1st off sleep is over rated I work midnights and I'm up all day too
2nd wife want me to stay @ my temp workbench in kitchen so every 5 minuets that I'm awake I sit there and build

Now the update: Took these outside in natural light
added a black wash overall, to the Tamiya XF-60
then added a rust wash to the tracksThen I added a light brown dusty wash to the lower half found a color photo of tank #121 from the same unit and the numbers were red so I colored then in too I have a few touch up spots and some gear to add hanging from the turret but I feel like its missing something
Guys help me out here this is my 1st DAK build what am I missing

Hi guys!
Thank you again for the warm welcome my burnt out tank received!

Sal, I'll try to explain my method which is a semplified version of what I learnt from the masters here on the site.

First I used the 'salt technique' to have the schratches on the paint (the first layer was done in gunmetal and/or rust, both sprayed in blotches). I'll add that the salt grains where a little too big, next time I'll try something finer still.

After removing the salt I washed the entire vehicle with 'rusty vinegar' (the recipit is as follows: take some steel wool and place it in a bowl, cover with vinegar and let it marinate for a week or so. When the wool is completely disintegrated, filter the vinegar and use this as a wash. Be careful, on applayig it, as it seems very light, but in fact it is the opposite and the effect will show off only after drying) I concentrated more on the recesses.

Then I sprayed some flat black *very gently* around the bured out areas.

Then I used real rust and grounded pastels (I use Faber Castell Polychromos Pastel Stik) in he shade of raw umber = old rust ; orange = new rust, black = burned out areas as you'd use pigments (black grounded pastel was used also to simulate the ash on the ground). Be careful to ground it using a very fine sandpaper.

And that's almost all, I think...

May be I'll do some touch up trying to simulate some streaks both of rust and/or oil...
turning my tank into a salad !!!

Give it a try! it is not as hard as it seems: this was my very first destroyed tank and, even if I know I surely made some mistake, I enjoied it very much...
Hope this helps!
ciao
Edo

@ Edo: thanks for the tips on how to apply rust. I will try it on my KV.

Bob

Thanks for all the replies gents, I think I'll just switch my choice of glues and technique on the next one.

Sal- There is so much conjecture regarding Tigers in Africa that you almost cannot go wrong. Ask three armor modellers and you'll receive four different opinions. That kit has most, if not all, of the mods made to that shipment of vehicles. My only suggestion is that even at that point in the campaign, there would still be a lot of gear stowed externally.

It's my understanding the majority were lost to mechanical breakdown and lack of fuel anyway.

BTW, I feel your pain regarding work. I just came off an extended stretch on midnights as I was the only FTO available during those hours.

G

Paul: Great thought, and I think we are actually saying the same thing

Sal: Looking good! I agree with G about the stowage, you may want to consider adding some

Edoardo: That sounds very straightforward, thanks for the mini tutorial. I'm looking forward to trying it out soon

G: I hope our thoughts will be of benefit to you. After seeing all of your builds, I had no idea you were having this problem until you mentioned here

Jeremy, it's one of my best kept secrets..........

G

Lol, well then I guess it can't leave this thread now can it

No

Well the tracks are off and basecoated. Pics tomorrow.

G

Lol

Alright then, looking forward to it!
I never asked before, but I've been wondering how you display your models when you're done with them? For some reason I see them all being on their own little bases.

I have prepared small bases for some, the rest just sit on the shelf for now. My long suffering wife desires a dedicated display which will allow each model to have it's own base. I leave that up to her in the interest of marital harmony.

G

Despite another hellish week at work some more progress has been made.

Fenders are on.



I fixed the starter plate issue.



I scratched a jerry can holder.



Painting of the tracks has started.



Wheels are in primer as is the turret.



I need to scratch a few more additions, then the hull will be in primer also.

G

Indeed, good man

Your progress is looking good G, and remember you're under no real time constraints here for the time being

SaL: The Tiger is looking good. I agree that some stoage is in order. I will have to do a DAK Tiger myself, havn't decided on what kit to get for the correct early Tiger as yet. More research.


G: Nice progress on the Pz III "G", getting close to primer/paint? The jerry can stowage should probably have been on the forward finder section, where you put the axe. That was the more common spot, especially the 8.rgt.15th Pz Div. aathough the 5.Rgt, 5.leicht (21.Pz) used the location also. You can get an additional can in that spot, probably why they used the location.

Here ae some photos of further progree on the Blitz. I have completed some stowage, painted the R75, none of the stowage is in place permanently as I am looking at various arrangements. I have two other stowage items to add (add & subtract), plus I may add a partially folded tarp over some of the load and other personal items. Only have so much room though.

I had some fit problems on the R75, couldn't get the front fork lined up right, leaves a noticeable gap and wrong attack angle. I will hide it with a rag or something. Another thing was there is a guage decal but the directions do not show where to place it, I guessd and am probaly wrong, any body know where it would go? I am not up to speed on motorcycles. I guess it is a good thing I have another one to tinker with, but I may go blind first.







V



Let me know what you think of the stowage progress. Hope to make another update next Sunday.

Happy modeling'

Ralph

Ralph, it goes on the headlight bucket, right in front of the handlebars.

Here is a link to a good gallery to help you out:
BMW R75 Gallery

Jeremy;

Thank you for the info, it was easily corrected.

Ralph

Here's a bit more:









I scratch built a rack for the rear of the tank and I am in the process of gathering stowage.

G

Ralph: You bet, glad to help bud

G: Stowage rack looks good. What color is the camo? I can't tell if it is gray or green.

Jeremy, that's MM enamel GrunBraun (RAL 800) and KhakiBraun (7008). It looks gray in the photos, but has the correct green tint in person.

I cut a piece of basswood for a plank, and will add flotsam and jetsam replicating photos I've seen.

I plan to add the track run and spare wheels to the front, making that DAK cowcatcher so frequently seen. It'll look like this one I made on a previous build.



G

I finally got some work done on my 232.It is a nice kit and it is going together well.It is not as crisp and detailed as the DML 234/2 Puma I build,but non the less it still is a quality Tamiya kit and it should be a nice build.Thanks for looking: