Yes, you are right Darren but like I said before ...








~ Jeff

Hi Remco, are you using a tripod for your pics? That would hold the camera steady and allow you to use aperture-priority settings that leave the shutter open longer to let in more light. More light gives better depth of field, so everything stays in focus. You could try flooding the area with extra lamps instead, or taking pictures out in sunlight, but if like me you build in the evenings there isn't much sunlight available this time of year!

Hope this helps,

Tom

a tripod would be nice, but before that i would need to get some halfway decent camera i fixed some makeshift tripod (well, a box to rest the camera on ) and cleaned the lens. these pics are a bit dark in places, think i will need to get some more light in here. But these pics are at least a bit sharper then the previous ones.

tracks and wheels are still loose, only on there for the picture, still have to construct half of the other track.

those look pretty good Remco,nice work.

100% better picturues Remco thank you.

I just signed up for this one. Probably going to do a Panther G Late with some AM products thrown in. I will post some pics later. Don M.

Welcome aboard Don

@Remco: Yeap! Your pics did come out better! A tripod would help... I would suggest that the easiest way you could best go would be to get more light onto the subject.

Here's how it goes with the camera: You have "available level of light" or intensity, a set "film sensitivity to light" = ISO or ASA, and a given lens aperture (indicated by F number). The interplay of these 3 things will determine what you get in terms shutter-speed (time) and depth-of-field. Distance from lens to subject also matters...

The "rules": Lens aperture (opening) DECREASES as "F" increases - higher F mean smaller effective opening in lens = less light allowed in. Exposure time (secs) matters - the longer the exposure time, the greater effect any motion will have on a pic. Higher "F" means it takes exposure longer time to allow a given amount of light in to a camera. "Film sensitivity", noted by ISO or ASA, is just that - how sensitive the "film" is to light. Higher ISO / ASA numbers denote greater sensitivity. Greater sensivity ("faster films" means a film needs less exposure time to collect a given amount of light for an image. The distance effect: For any given amount of light, film sensitivity, exposure time, aperture.... the closer the lens is to the subject, the lower the depth - of - field.

So: For any given amount of light (say, a 60-w lightbulb positioned 3 feet from a panzer)... higher film speed (higher ISO / ASA) SHORTENS exposure time, higher "F" (smaller lens aperture) INCREASES exposure time.

HIGHER F also, while cutting the amount of light getting in thru the lens, INCREASES "depth-of-field". Something which many of us want.. BUT... Higher F ALSO reduces image resolution (you have cut that light...) and leads to less detail - something most of us do NOT want! And higher F increases that exposure time... At the same time, LOWER ISO / ASA (slower films) are HIGHER resolution (but, note, in the modern digital camera world, any film speed up to ASA 400 is probably fine - above that you start to get "noise" and loose film resolving power - the image gets "grainier").

So... what to do?

I suggest the following: 1) get more light onto the panzer - being careful of course to avoid cooking it . More light will allow you to 2) use a moderate ISO / ASA setting (a "slower film") to keep higher resolution while gaining some speed. More light will also allow you to 3) INCREASE your F some, thus gaining depth-of-field, but cranking the F all the way up (tiny aperture) will get most depth, but cut resolution..., so.... 4) balance the ISO, light and F so that you shoot at speeds faster than 1/60th of a sec... the faster the exposure, the less motion (vibration, etc.) effect. And 5), use a tripod or a solid block to "mount" that camera on!

I further suggest that you try taking pics using a telephoto lens! Getting further away from a panzer and zooming in on it with a tele gains depth-of-field without needing to increase F, so keeps more of the resolution! Of course, more distance = less light = longer exposure time = blurring.... so use the tripod!

Cheers!

Bob

I have not had a ton of bench time lately with the parent conferences and seasonal concerts at work.

I had gotten the drivers compartment installed and primed back before the big crash, now detail painted and some drybrushing. I'll let this paint cure a day or so and then do the washes and pigments.

As you can see the crooks and nannies of the drivers comp are not fully painted, but as I will be mounting the upper hull (not displaying the kit in 'slices') these areas will be invisible through the open hatches. Plus this will serve to lighten up the interior when assembled.





The lower hull details, sprocket, bump stops and roadwheel arms. The front few arms needed trimming so they do not foul the interior, but since Tamiya molds the arms with a peg and locating pin, this was not a problem. It means I will not be atriculating the arms, but oh well.

I will need to trim the rear arms once the glue sets up more. In retrospect, I should have just trimmed them all at the same time.



Inital detail painting of the turret interior. No weathering or decals in there yet.
I will probably overpaint the field grey boxes and then chip them back to show some of this color.

Nice work so far Mike but the bulkhead support looks out of true.

Here is what I will be starting for the GB. Dragon Panther Late G with Friulmodel Tracks and an Armorscale barrel. Profile pic is from Concord Panther book with a splinter type camo scheme. Don M.

nice camo scheme,should be good

All major construction done.I will leave tools,extra tracks,and cables off till after painting.No new dificulties,things going smooth.Next up for the weekend will be what I call roadwheel madness,it will seem like familiar because I did an early Jagpanther recently for the OOB Campaign,so it shouldn't be too tedious once I get rolling.Here is where I am at now :

Quick question, are the Jagdpanther Schurzen the same as the Panther Schurzen? I'm gathering my parts together for my build and I don't want to make an accuracy error.

Cheers
Jeremy

To the best of my knowledge yes Jeremy as the hull is the same on both the Panther and Jagdpanther.

Here is my progress so far, The photo etched grills have been attached using PVA glue as I find it easier to work with despite the longer curing time and weaker bond, I beliieve that unless you like to play with your builds this is by far the cleanest and easiest way of securing most photo etched parts depending on the size and amount of surface area of the part, No issues where found in the stages featured here.

Great thanks Darren, I figured as much but wasn't sure if there was a minute detail or something that I was missing. It will be a few weeks before I have everything and can get started.

Hey everyone! saw this panther campaign and decided to come out of the woodwork for a build. : )

I just want to get one thing clarified first by CMOT,

Quote: "3. While you can build your model in any order you wish, you are required to use text and pictures to explain your build in a step by step method. "

I read this as just needing to take a picture and an explanation after I do what I consider to be a step. Not a directive to do the model as the instructions say and take a picture after each step number. Am I right in my thinking? or is the second way right?

I am planning on building a Panther G with IR built at MHN in fall of '44. Obviously not any specific tank.

I don't have the kit yet but will probably be using Dragon 6268 or 6659 (black knight "G") as well as AM-works PE.

I haven't decided between the IR equipment from Great Wall or Voyager yet does anyone know how the quality is between the two?

I also haven't decided on tracks yet, though I'm leaning toward aftermarket either Bronco or Fruili. I've never used either and could use some help deciding, or if there is a better third option... .

Lastly I am thinking of using an Aber barrel though I have heard that the casting of the barrel in the kit is pretty good. Can anyone that has built one let me know if the am barrel is unnecessary?

I don't plan to particularly count every bolt or anything but I would like when I'm finished to be able to set it next to another panther modeled as from being from MAN or DM and be able to point out the differences.

Firstly welcome aboard James.

What I mean by step by step is that you can build the model in any order you wish, but at the same time keep everyone informed of what you are doing and any problems you encounter and how you overcame them. This also means that there is a chance some of these builds will be made into build features on the site. In addition to this I will of course do a campaign round up when it finishes.

Thank you for the clarification Darren, just wanted to be sure.

Much to my suprise one of my local hobby shops had both 6268 and 6659 black knight "G" in stock, and after much deliberation I bought 6659.

I'll probably wait til all the PE arrives to start though. If anyone is able to answer any of my previous questions I would be most grateful!

Happy building!

There is a review of the GWH product on Armorama which may be of help.




The tracks included (magitrack I believe) should be fine, if you specifically want workable tracks the Friul offering is good but the moulds seem to be getting old and the links as a result require a lot of clean up. Bronco tracks I have no knowledge of the Panther offering other than pictures but their other track sets are good but do require care during assembly as it is very easy to make them none movable.




the barrels in the box are ok it is the muzzle brakes that I am not a fan of. They are 3 piece affiars that does allow for accuracy but they never seem to go together perfectly and they are a pig to fill and sand.




Cannot help with this one.

Hey all. Looks like I'm in on this one. I have 2 panthers to submit however one is already started without pics however, all I can promise is that it was definitely started after Nov 1st, 2011. The one already started is an Academy 1/25 Panther G Late. I was getting ready to crack the box on an Academy 1/25 Jagdpanther Late and this I will be submitting for this build as it is unstarted. I'm building them together to save time painting etc. I'll get pics of everything tonight and get them up as soon as I can.

Welcome aboard Randy I look forward to seeing how this larger scale kits compare to the 1/35th scale models.

Thanks CMOT

These 1/25 kits are actually static versions of the R/C models so they tend to be lacking in detail. My main goal with these kits are to get my feet wet as I have had a very long absence from modeling and these are a little easier on the eyes. I'm getting used to all the new acrylic paints and learning to use my airbrush again etc, Modeling has changed a LOT since I last picked up a glue of Testors cement and little square bottles of enamel... Anyway, going to dress these kits up with a little PE and hopefully get some detail going. Pics to follow. Glad to be here...

Thank you for reminding me. I had seen that a while back and couldn't remember the manufacturer.




Actually this tank comes with the one piece track.









I have found a few lists that I think I can figure it all out.

Thanks for the help!