Some more progress on de Pz.Kpfw.IV Ausf.D...
Being one of Tamiya's earlier moulds it is pretty simple and is falling together, except a part of the hull has made a bid for freedom and I have no idea where it has gone. Luckily you won;t be able to see it when the build is finished.
Keep at it everyone
Cheers
Warren
Campaigns
Where Armorama group builds can be discussed, organized, and updates posted.
Where Armorama group builds can be discussed, organized, and updates posted.
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Panzers Return!
warreni
South Australia, Australia
Joined: August 14, 2007
KitMaker: 5,926 posts
Armorama: 712 posts
Joined: August 14, 2007
KitMaker: 5,926 posts
Armorama: 712 posts
Posted: Wednesday, December 04, 2013 - 05:14 PM UTC
Posted: Thursday, December 05, 2013 - 12:48 AM UTC
Thanks Brad, yeah I just have to add him, wouldn't be the same without Mr. Wittmann himself.
Pete
Pete
panzerbob01
Louisiana, United States
Joined: March 06, 2010
KitMaker: 3,128 posts
Armorama: 2,959 posts
Joined: March 06, 2010
KitMaker: 3,128 posts
Armorama: 2,959 posts
Posted: Thursday, December 05, 2013 - 08:33 AM UTC
All sorts of nice Panzers scattered across all these pages! Wow! Folks have, well, risen to some bait - almost like a school of sharks up to the buckets of fish heads and guts! Awesome work, everybody! I can see stuff FAR beyond whatever I'll do.
Seeing as I did enlist here, figured it was getting high time I actually got going on a panzer and posted something! That was back in the "Bad Old Days" back before T-Day... But, while the panzer was ready to do and the fingers willing and (sigh) the cement and CA available... the camera cable vanished. I'll blame the cats - nobody out there knows any different, so that's my story and I'll stick to it!
I did get a start-pic back 23 NOV (posted below), so presume I'm good. My chosen subject for this campaign was that Hobby Boss Pz. II ausf J kit - planned as mostly OOTB with some scratch mods and an RB metal KwK 38 L/50 barrel to round things out a bit. Probably going to get a "kursk period" paint-job. We'll see.
I have actually completed the physical assembly as of 01 DEC (fastest kit I've ever built - at least since some simple thing back around 1975!) and I am ready to go to paint this weekend - following will be my Start frame and several WIP shots and comments.
Here's the start and the log:
Start-up PM of 23 NOV 2013. Opened the box, shot the pic, admired the clean and crisp-looking styrene goodness, noted a couple things that I would need to address in order to feel better... The tracks are link and length. Good looking, generally, and clearly robust and yes, likely to fit snug and firm together. But they lack those very visible track pin ends. Uh oh. And the kit styrene 2cm gun barrel (you get a choice of ca L/55 (usual equipment) or L/65 (standard FlaKrohr 38 barrel which would fit the tank gun receiver)... actually look pretty nice for styrene 2cm barrels, but a metal barrel would make this pop...
After looking in the box, seeing plastic and PE, and smelling the fresh styrene smells... I went off to catch a TV movie with the wife and have a nice ale. "Hey! At least I have opened the box and handled stuff! I got LOTS of time to get this thing done! ". I think this is when my orange cat took my camera cable...
WIP continued with an hour or so each following night... next post(s)
Bob
Seeing as I did enlist here, figured it was getting high time I actually got going on a panzer and posted something! That was back in the "Bad Old Days" back before T-Day... But, while the panzer was ready to do and the fingers willing and (sigh) the cement and CA available... the camera cable vanished. I'll blame the cats - nobody out there knows any different, so that's my story and I'll stick to it!
I did get a start-pic back 23 NOV (posted below), so presume I'm good. My chosen subject for this campaign was that Hobby Boss Pz. II ausf J kit - planned as mostly OOTB with some scratch mods and an RB metal KwK 38 L/50 barrel to round things out a bit. Probably going to get a "kursk period" paint-job. We'll see.
I have actually completed the physical assembly as of 01 DEC (fastest kit I've ever built - at least since some simple thing back around 1975!) and I am ready to go to paint this weekend - following will be my Start frame and several WIP shots and comments.
Here's the start and the log:
Start-up PM of 23 NOV 2013. Opened the box, shot the pic, admired the clean and crisp-looking styrene goodness, noted a couple things that I would need to address in order to feel better... The tracks are link and length. Good looking, generally, and clearly robust and yes, likely to fit snug and firm together. But they lack those very visible track pin ends. Uh oh. And the kit styrene 2cm gun barrel (you get a choice of ca L/55 (usual equipment) or L/65 (standard FlaKrohr 38 barrel which would fit the tank gun receiver)... actually look pretty nice for styrene 2cm barrels, but a metal barrel would make this pop...
After looking in the box, seeing plastic and PE, and smelling the fresh styrene smells... I went off to catch a TV movie with the wife and have a nice ale. "Hey! At least I have opened the box and handled stuff! I got LOTS of time to get this thing done! ". I think this is when my orange cat took my camera cable...
WIP continued with an hour or so each following night... next post(s)
Bob
Pytagoras
Møre og Romsdal, Norway
Joined: December 03, 2012
KitMaker: 300 posts
Armorama: 285 posts
Joined: December 03, 2012
KitMaker: 300 posts
Armorama: 285 posts
Posted: Thursday, December 05, 2013 - 08:46 AM UTC
Hull and turret primed on my Pz. II Ausf B.
Nito74
Lisboa, Portugal
Joined: March 04, 2008
KitMaker: 5,386 posts
Armorama: 4,727 posts
Joined: March 04, 2008
KitMaker: 5,386 posts
Armorama: 4,727 posts
Posted: Thursday, December 05, 2013 - 08:56 AM UTC
Hi Bob,
I did the same kit for this Campaign, you can see some WIP photos a few pages back.
Don't trust the links number for each track, I posted it a few pages back, besides that no problems, it's a clean build.
I did the same kit for this Campaign, you can see some WIP photos a few pages back.
Don't trust the links number for each track, I posted it a few pages back, besides that no problems, it's a clean build.
panzerbob01
Louisiana, United States
Joined: March 06, 2010
KitMaker: 3,128 posts
Armorama: 2,959 posts
Joined: March 06, 2010
KitMaker: 3,128 posts
Armorama: 2,959 posts
Posted: Thursday, December 05, 2013 - 08:58 AM UTC
HB Pz II ausf J WIP...
After a cursory peek at the instructions, I started cutting and cementing. Two operations ran parallel: One was to do the basic hull assembly - a tub with a couple end plate pieces and add on those suspension arms -, the other to do one of my more-favorite things - cut all the wheels and clean them up and stuff them into cups for later painting.
The basic hull goes together clean and tight, and the suspension arms need little clean-up. I believe that those arms had castings for heads - so I left some of the convenient seams in place to account for the casting seam I think was present. Right away, one finds that the left is not a mirror image of the right side... cool! (This is ever - clearer as you get to fenders...)
The roadies and sprockets need little cleaning - I did NOT assemble any wheels, other than sprockets, at this point, as painting the separate wheels will be easier than trying to get paint down between the pieces in a pair unit.
I moved to the tracks on PM of 25 NOV - the basic hull being assembled (no visors, no top, etc.), I could now dry-mount some wheels, and build my track-runs and form stuff up... This is when I became clearly aware of the single biggest droop, MHO, of this kit... There are no track pins molded to links! And they are prominent and visible on the real thing. Blah. So I went and assembled the runs and planned to fix the pins issue after...
At which time I discovered that HobbyBoss badly flubbed the instructions (I know. We guys don't do instructions. But one MAY want to at least have an idea how many links go into the track before you cement things up... so...). Turns out that you need to include several more separate links than are called for. It turns out that you get more than enough (good) but it was less fun trying to cleanly undo stuff to get the runs the right length. Per my usual practices, I assembled and formed runs and mounted them to dry around dry-mounted wheels held on with "tacky".
I set things up, and went off to make the brine for the T-Day birdie. And have another ale and think about the track pins a bit.
After the brine was going and the ale had soothed things down a bit, I spent a late-night hour fixing the pins.
Turned out to be pretty easy, if a bit monotonous... I stretched some sprue and made a couple hundred tiny wafers to stand in as pin ends, and placed them one at a time at link pin-ends around the formed runs. Tiny disc set into tiny cement drop. I did both runs both sides in about 2 hours and another good ale.
I closed shop for the night. The camera cable was GONE.
Bob
After a cursory peek at the instructions, I started cutting and cementing. Two operations ran parallel: One was to do the basic hull assembly - a tub with a couple end plate pieces and add on those suspension arms -, the other to do one of my more-favorite things - cut all the wheels and clean them up and stuff them into cups for later painting.
The basic hull goes together clean and tight, and the suspension arms need little clean-up. I believe that those arms had castings for heads - so I left some of the convenient seams in place to account for the casting seam I think was present. Right away, one finds that the left is not a mirror image of the right side... cool! (This is ever - clearer as you get to fenders...)
The roadies and sprockets need little cleaning - I did NOT assemble any wheels, other than sprockets, at this point, as painting the separate wheels will be easier than trying to get paint down between the pieces in a pair unit.
I moved to the tracks on PM of 25 NOV - the basic hull being assembled (no visors, no top, etc.), I could now dry-mount some wheels, and build my track-runs and form stuff up... This is when I became clearly aware of the single biggest droop, MHO, of this kit... There are no track pins molded to links! And they are prominent and visible on the real thing. Blah. So I went and assembled the runs and planned to fix the pins issue after...
At which time I discovered that HobbyBoss badly flubbed the instructions (I know. We guys don't do instructions. But one MAY want to at least have an idea how many links go into the track before you cement things up... so...). Turns out that you need to include several more separate links than are called for. It turns out that you get more than enough (good) but it was less fun trying to cleanly undo stuff to get the runs the right length. Per my usual practices, I assembled and formed runs and mounted them to dry around dry-mounted wheels held on with "tacky".
I set things up, and went off to make the brine for the T-Day birdie. And have another ale and think about the track pins a bit.
After the brine was going and the ale had soothed things down a bit, I spent a late-night hour fixing the pins.
Turned out to be pretty easy, if a bit monotonous... I stretched some sprue and made a couple hundred tiny wafers to stand in as pin ends, and placed them one at a time at link pin-ends around the formed runs. Tiny disc set into tiny cement drop. I did both runs both sides in about 2 hours and another good ale.
I closed shop for the night. The camera cable was GONE.
Bob
panzerbob01
Louisiana, United States
Joined: March 06, 2010
KitMaker: 3,128 posts
Armorama: 2,959 posts
Joined: March 06, 2010
KitMaker: 3,128 posts
Armorama: 2,959 posts
Posted: Thursday, December 05, 2013 - 09:10 AM UTC
HB Pz II ausf J WIP continued...
The night of 25 NOV saw fitting the hull top, some detailing around that hull, addition of things like visors, and a few weld-seams to help stuff along. The tracks had set up nicely and look pretty good - so all those wheels came off the wagon and went to their cups to await paint.
When detailing this hull - pay attention to the front plate... The kit arrangement leaves you a seam which should not be there across the upper part of that plate. Fill and sand this off - that plate was entire to the top, with the upper horizontal plate butted behind the front plate. I did that sanding and added a couple weld-beads here and there.
The visors are pretty nice. Note that the central upper block was actually just that - a block of steel, which slid up and down within the frame. The frame was a steel casting and presumably welded to the hull and driver's glacis plates. So I added weld beads there around.
I also drilled small holes into those conical fittings on the upper front plate - these are for those conduits from the fender lamps.
There were also some seams to be fiddled and welds added elsewhere (the rear, etc.) And I assmbled the smoke-bom launcher box.
A short evening with the panz...
Bob
PS: John; Yep! I saw that, and that's what sort of tipped my hat in this direction - noting that I had dawdled long enough to preclude doing something like a Dragon or Bronco kit with many hundreds of parts, I figured I could do this somewhat lesser-sized thing. Your's is an inspiration - I'll be going slightly different, but it'll be another II-J for the list!
The night of 25 NOV saw fitting the hull top, some detailing around that hull, addition of things like visors, and a few weld-seams to help stuff along. The tracks had set up nicely and look pretty good - so all those wheels came off the wagon and went to their cups to await paint.
When detailing this hull - pay attention to the front plate... The kit arrangement leaves you a seam which should not be there across the upper part of that plate. Fill and sand this off - that plate was entire to the top, with the upper horizontal plate butted behind the front plate. I did that sanding and added a couple weld-beads here and there.
The visors are pretty nice. Note that the central upper block was actually just that - a block of steel, which slid up and down within the frame. The frame was a steel casting and presumably welded to the hull and driver's glacis plates. So I added weld beads there around.
I also drilled small holes into those conical fittings on the upper front plate - these are for those conduits from the fender lamps.
There were also some seams to be fiddled and welds added elsewhere (the rear, etc.) And I assmbled the smoke-bom launcher box.
A short evening with the panz...
Bob
PS: John; Yep! I saw that, and that's what sort of tipped my hat in this direction - noting that I had dawdled long enough to preclude doing something like a Dragon or Bronco kit with many hundreds of parts, I figured I could do this somewhat lesser-sized thing. Your's is an inspiration - I'll be going slightly different, but it'll be another II-J for the list!
panzerbob01
Louisiana, United States
Joined: March 06, 2010
KitMaker: 3,128 posts
Armorama: 2,959 posts
Joined: March 06, 2010
KitMaker: 3,128 posts
Armorama: 2,959 posts
Posted: Thursday, December 05, 2013 - 09:26 AM UTC
HB Pz II ausf J WIP continues:
26 NOV rolled around. I was pretty busy with doing stuff for the fambly feed coming next day - pie, stuffing, setting turkey to brine, cranberries, yams, and etc.
The hull being basically done and tracks set up, it was time to go for the turret...
A pretty simple thing. A few pieces for the rather oddly tiny top hatch assembly, a top and bottom of the turret, the MG and cannon bits and the mantle bits. Oh... and 3 small PE assemblies for the lifting-hooks around the turret.
I discovered that my CA was dried up. So the hooks had to wait. But I could drill out the mantle for my metal barrel (just a slight enlargement of the current hole was needed - easy to do with a drill-bit twirled by finger). The below turret pic includes those hooks, which I added on T-Day after getting some CA at the HobbyLobby.
All-up, the turret looks pretty nice, and the metal barrel adds that fine form detail we crave and often cannot get when sanding tiny plastic barrels .
No, I did not forget the missing muzzle-brake. That's just hanging around in the package waiting its turn before actual painting!
Drill that MG barrel out a bit for better appearance. I would actually have replaced that with a metal item, had I one on hand.
I did find that the turret fit rather snugly into the keyed turret ring on the hull-top. I sanded that out a bit so that the turret turns freely - mostly to avoid possible jams from paint later on. (Actually - let's confess our little inner selves, now - it was so that I could play with my little plastic tank! Vrroooom! )
The camera cable had not emerged yet. But at least I had gained confidence that it had not been consumed by a cat... meaning that it would eventually surface in the house if I were but patient enough
Bob
26 NOV rolled around. I was pretty busy with doing stuff for the fambly feed coming next day - pie, stuffing, setting turkey to brine, cranberries, yams, and etc.
The hull being basically done and tracks set up, it was time to go for the turret...
A pretty simple thing. A few pieces for the rather oddly tiny top hatch assembly, a top and bottom of the turret, the MG and cannon bits and the mantle bits. Oh... and 3 small PE assemblies for the lifting-hooks around the turret.
I discovered that my CA was dried up. So the hooks had to wait. But I could drill out the mantle for my metal barrel (just a slight enlargement of the current hole was needed - easy to do with a drill-bit twirled by finger). The below turret pic includes those hooks, which I added on T-Day after getting some CA at the HobbyLobby.
All-up, the turret looks pretty nice, and the metal barrel adds that fine form detail we crave and often cannot get when sanding tiny plastic barrels .
No, I did not forget the missing muzzle-brake. That's just hanging around in the package waiting its turn before actual painting!
Drill that MG barrel out a bit for better appearance. I would actually have replaced that with a metal item, had I one on hand.
I did find that the turret fit rather snugly into the keyed turret ring on the hull-top. I sanded that out a bit so that the turret turns freely - mostly to avoid possible jams from paint later on. (Actually - let's confess our little inner selves, now - it was so that I could play with my little plastic tank! Vrroooom! )
The camera cable had not emerged yet. But at least I had gained confidence that it had not been consumed by a cat... meaning that it would eventually surface in the house if I were but patient enough
Bob
Nito74
Lisboa, Portugal
Joined: March 04, 2008
KitMaker: 5,386 posts
Armorama: 4,727 posts
Joined: March 04, 2008
KitMaker: 5,386 posts
Armorama: 4,727 posts
Posted: Thursday, December 05, 2013 - 09:26 AM UTC
Thanks Bob !
You shouldn't run into many problems.
The turret lacks some detail, and I agree with you a metal gun would look great.
But it's a fine kit for it's price.
Looking forward to see your paint scheme.
You shouldn't run into many problems.
The turret lacks some detail, and I agree with you a metal gun would look great.
But it's a fine kit for it's price.
Looking forward to see your paint scheme.
panzerbob01
Louisiana, United States
Joined: March 06, 2010
KitMaker: 3,128 posts
Armorama: 2,959 posts
Joined: March 06, 2010
KitMaker: 3,128 posts
Armorama: 2,959 posts
Posted: Thursday, December 05, 2013 - 09:30 AM UTC
HB Pz II ausf J WIP continues...
T-Day! Not a whole lot got done. I did get that CA and mount those tiny PE hooks. They actually look pretty nice and actually match up pretty well with photos of the real thing. I had though about swapping in some plastic spares from a Dragon kit or some such - DON'T! The kit PE items really do look like the real thing. But they are a tiny PITA.
Late on T-Day night, sated with pie and bird and ale and stuff, I started fiddling with those fenders. But only cut a few bits and cleaned things.
Bob
T-Day! Not a whole lot got done. I did get that CA and mount those tiny PE hooks. They actually look pretty nice and actually match up pretty well with photos of the real thing. I had though about swapping in some plastic spares from a Dragon kit or some such - DON'T! The kit PE items really do look like the real thing. But they are a tiny PITA.
Late on T-Day night, sated with pie and bird and ale and stuff, I started fiddling with those fenders. But only cut a few bits and cleaned things.
Bob
panzerbob01
Louisiana, United States
Joined: March 06, 2010
KitMaker: 3,128 posts
Armorama: 2,959 posts
Joined: March 06, 2010
KitMaker: 3,128 posts
Armorama: 2,959 posts
Posted: Thursday, December 05, 2013 - 09:52 AM UTC
HB Pz II ausf J WIP continues...
The fenders pretty much came together styrene-wise late on 28 NOV. VERY cool! Each fender is a different little thing - different sizes, different details, etc. The tools include a pretty OK jack, the usual shovel, axe, pry-bar and jack-block, some cool PE braces, and lamps and such (fronts and backs all get some lamp).
The fenders of this tank were stamped sheet metal items with a folded metal flange underneath to bolt to the hull (kit supplies nice PE strips for this feature - but a purist might want to add some bolt-heads to these...) and a pair of sheet-metal braces on top for stiffening and hanging-support.
The kit supplies PE for these braces. They work very well, but need care to bend the right way and bend straight. IF done right, they fit snug to fender-top and butt squarely to the hull. Done wrong, and you are in the creek. Fortune smiled and I got them right . One of the odd details here is that you need to have faith and recognize that the bolt-head side always faces up and out. Makes for braces seemingly facing in the wrong direction, but stick with it! They WILL work out just right.
The small head-lamps may be wrong on this kit... photos appear to show these head-lamps up on box-stands. I created such from a little styrene sheet. Makes you need to adjust the supplied "conduit" pieces which lead from lamp to those conical fittings on the front hull top plate... the devil lurks in the details!
The tail lamps L and R desire some cables or conduits.
The tools need a little clean-up, and could benefit from either new metal PE clamps or some styrene detailing. I will add some clasp handles from styrene strip. The axe mount is OK but could be a metal or sheet styrene box for better look. The shovel blade mount is blah and needs a brace underneath and could really benefit from a metal or styrene replacement...
The jack is OK - real jacks of this sort had small loop handles on the side - cut off those molded-on bars and replace with wire or stretched sprue (me) for better look. Also, the jack handle is pretty wrong. Cut off the too-short folded handle and add one made of rod or wire. I "guarantee" you'll like the way it looks. To show off this detail, I reversed the jack in its mounts. So arrest me.
I added the smoke launcher box in back and added those little PE tow-cable mounts, as well. I THINK the smoke-launcher needs some help- these were "fired" (bombs dropped onto their chains) by a sort of cable-release thing pulled by the crew inside. What it looks like is, well, less certain. But maybe try to fit something onto one end of that wee box and leading into the hull somewhere?
Speaking of cables... No camera cable, yet. The cats are, at this point, staying back from me. Wonder why
Bob
The fenders pretty much came together styrene-wise late on 28 NOV. VERY cool! Each fender is a different little thing - different sizes, different details, etc. The tools include a pretty OK jack, the usual shovel, axe, pry-bar and jack-block, some cool PE braces, and lamps and such (fronts and backs all get some lamp).
The fenders of this tank were stamped sheet metal items with a folded metal flange underneath to bolt to the hull (kit supplies nice PE strips for this feature - but a purist might want to add some bolt-heads to these...) and a pair of sheet-metal braces on top for stiffening and hanging-support.
The kit supplies PE for these braces. They work very well, but need care to bend the right way and bend straight. IF done right, they fit snug to fender-top and butt squarely to the hull. Done wrong, and you are in the creek. Fortune smiled and I got them right . One of the odd details here is that you need to have faith and recognize that the bolt-head side always faces up and out. Makes for braces seemingly facing in the wrong direction, but stick with it! They WILL work out just right.
The small head-lamps may be wrong on this kit... photos appear to show these head-lamps up on box-stands. I created such from a little styrene sheet. Makes you need to adjust the supplied "conduit" pieces which lead from lamp to those conical fittings on the front hull top plate... the devil lurks in the details!
The tail lamps L and R desire some cables or conduits.
The tools need a little clean-up, and could benefit from either new metal PE clamps or some styrene detailing. I will add some clasp handles from styrene strip. The axe mount is OK but could be a metal or sheet styrene box for better look. The shovel blade mount is blah and needs a brace underneath and could really benefit from a metal or styrene replacement...
The jack is OK - real jacks of this sort had small loop handles on the side - cut off those molded-on bars and replace with wire or stretched sprue (me) for better look. Also, the jack handle is pretty wrong. Cut off the too-short folded handle and add one made of rod or wire. I "guarantee" you'll like the way it looks. To show off this detail, I reversed the jack in its mounts. So arrest me.
I added the smoke launcher box in back and added those little PE tow-cable mounts, as well. I THINK the smoke-launcher needs some help- these were "fired" (bombs dropped onto their chains) by a sort of cable-release thing pulled by the crew inside. What it looks like is, well, less certain. But maybe try to fit something onto one end of that wee box and leading into the hull somewhere?
Speaking of cables... No camera cable, yet. The cats are, at this point, staying back from me. Wonder why
Bob
Nito74
Lisboa, Portugal
Joined: March 04, 2008
KitMaker: 5,386 posts
Armorama: 4,727 posts
Joined: March 04, 2008
KitMaker: 5,386 posts
Armorama: 4,727 posts
Posted: Thursday, December 05, 2013 - 10:00 AM UTC
Nice work Bob !
panzerbob01
Louisiana, United States
Joined: March 06, 2010
KitMaker: 3,128 posts
Armorama: 2,959 posts
Joined: March 06, 2010
KitMaker: 3,128 posts
Armorama: 2,959 posts
Posted: Thursday, December 05, 2013 - 10:17 AM UTC
HB Pz II ausf J WIP continues...
More fender fiddle on 29 NOV. I scratched in a couple of conduits for those rear lamps and fixed the head and Notek lamps to get where I wanted them. The Notek lamp is, alas, both pretty finely molded and attached to its sprue right at that rim... NOT the easiest thing to clean up while still keeping that characteristic lip around the edge of the lamp.
Come 30 NOV, I pretty much completed the fenders and their hull-side braces underneath, and tweaked a few details. As this lasted from about 10 pm to perhaps 2 AM, I'll claim that I actually pretty much completed all the styrene and PE build just in time to roll in DEC.
I dry-fitted all fenders and cleaned up the tiny stuff hanging out here and there. At this point, the plastic panzer is ready to head for the paint shop - painting will take wheels, tracks, fenders, turret, and hull as separate items, followed by assembly and weathering on the whole thing.
As seen from the front:
Note the white bits are those detail scratch items I added from styrene sheet as noted above.
As seen from the rear...
Note that the PE screens over the cooling vents on the rear deck are not there... these get put on after louvers get painted. Also, spare track links are not mounted, nor are the tow-cables. The kit supplies a string and some nice cable-eyes for to make cables. Twisted copper lamp wire would do much better for these cables, I think. Leastwise, that is what will happen (at least until things go all cocked-hat and stuff ). The cables and the spare links add on after some paint happens.
From the top...
It's a boxy little wide-body panzer indeed. The paint scheme is likely to be a dunkelgrau base over a dark primer coat, with some mottle or striping with a tan or sand color (we should really avoid using "actual" "dunkelgelb" for this, if we are seeking to depict a German tank operating west of Kursk in late 1942 or early 1943, as dunkelgelb was not yet in the inventory and on the field...) as often seen on panzers in Russia later in 1942 and into 1943. As the Pz. II J moved into action in the Kursk area in very early 1943, probably it did not appear at that point wearing any tricolor scheme. Kursk survivors were very likely repainted and continued to serve in units in that area - mostly in rear areas as security vehicles, etc.
We will see after this weekend!
Build and kit summary:
This is one pretty nice kit. It is well-molded, seemingly pretty well engineered, no sags and pot-holes and other blems to be filled. It goes together easily and cleanly, and is a fun little build with little frustration built in (other than the bits mentioned above). I cannot vouch for true measured accuracy, but it looks to compare very well in most details and form with available photos. If you are looking for a nice, clean, no-big-fights type of modeling experience leading to a pretty sharp-looking thing OOTB, I would heartily recommend this one as a possible subject for your attention.
Oh. Right. The camera cable... Yeah. It emerged. And no, the cats - cuddly little innocents that they purrr-port to be - actually had nada to do with the whole thing. It was my evil twin. Somehow, the cable ended up inside a work boot which ended up going out onto the porch. I found it by... putting on that boot for to do some big yard work on the weekend.
Bob
More fender fiddle on 29 NOV. I scratched in a couple of conduits for those rear lamps and fixed the head and Notek lamps to get where I wanted them. The Notek lamp is, alas, both pretty finely molded and attached to its sprue right at that rim... NOT the easiest thing to clean up while still keeping that characteristic lip around the edge of the lamp.
Come 30 NOV, I pretty much completed the fenders and their hull-side braces underneath, and tweaked a few details. As this lasted from about 10 pm to perhaps 2 AM, I'll claim that I actually pretty much completed all the styrene and PE build just in time to roll in DEC.
I dry-fitted all fenders and cleaned up the tiny stuff hanging out here and there. At this point, the plastic panzer is ready to head for the paint shop - painting will take wheels, tracks, fenders, turret, and hull as separate items, followed by assembly and weathering on the whole thing.
As seen from the front:
Note the white bits are those detail scratch items I added from styrene sheet as noted above.
As seen from the rear...
Note that the PE screens over the cooling vents on the rear deck are not there... these get put on after louvers get painted. Also, spare track links are not mounted, nor are the tow-cables. The kit supplies a string and some nice cable-eyes for to make cables. Twisted copper lamp wire would do much better for these cables, I think. Leastwise, that is what will happen (at least until things go all cocked-hat and stuff ). The cables and the spare links add on after some paint happens.
From the top...
It's a boxy little wide-body panzer indeed. The paint scheme is likely to be a dunkelgrau base over a dark primer coat, with some mottle or striping with a tan or sand color (we should really avoid using "actual" "dunkelgelb" for this, if we are seeking to depict a German tank operating west of Kursk in late 1942 or early 1943, as dunkelgelb was not yet in the inventory and on the field...) as often seen on panzers in Russia later in 1942 and into 1943. As the Pz. II J moved into action in the Kursk area in very early 1943, probably it did not appear at that point wearing any tricolor scheme. Kursk survivors were very likely repainted and continued to serve in units in that area - mostly in rear areas as security vehicles, etc.
We will see after this weekend!
Build and kit summary:
This is one pretty nice kit. It is well-molded, seemingly pretty well engineered, no sags and pot-holes and other blems to be filled. It goes together easily and cleanly, and is a fun little build with little frustration built in (other than the bits mentioned above). I cannot vouch for true measured accuracy, but it looks to compare very well in most details and form with available photos. If you are looking for a nice, clean, no-big-fights type of modeling experience leading to a pretty sharp-looking thing OOTB, I would heartily recommend this one as a possible subject for your attention.
Oh. Right. The camera cable... Yeah. It emerged. And no, the cats - cuddly little innocents that they purrr-port to be - actually had nada to do with the whole thing. It was my evil twin. Somehow, the cable ended up inside a work boot which ended up going out onto the porch. I found it by... putting on that boot for to do some big yard work on the weekend.
Bob
FirstSergeant
Michigan, United States
Joined: January 02, 2012
KitMaker: 139 posts
Armorama: 65 posts
Joined: January 02, 2012
KitMaker: 139 posts
Armorama: 65 posts
Posted: Thursday, December 05, 2013 - 01:59 PM UTC
Greetings,
More progress and photos. The first two photos are of the Tiger with the Tamiya Dark Yellow filter sprayed over the brushed on camouflage. Tamiya Red Brown was thinned and brushed on in increasing thickness always keeping the brush moist with thinner. Tamiya Dark Yellow was thinned and sprayed with my airbrush over the entire model. The last three photos are the Tiger in various stages of assembly with some weathering applied.
Still working...
Regards,
Firstsergeant
More progress and photos. The first two photos are of the Tiger with the Tamiya Dark Yellow filter sprayed over the brushed on camouflage. Tamiya Red Brown was thinned and brushed on in increasing thickness always keeping the brush moist with thinner. Tamiya Dark Yellow was thinned and sprayed with my airbrush over the entire model. The last three photos are the Tiger in various stages of assembly with some weathering applied.
Still working...
Regards,
Firstsergeant
modelguy2
Ohio, United States
Joined: March 09, 2002
KitMaker: 818 posts
Armorama: 269 posts
Joined: March 09, 2002
KitMaker: 818 posts
Armorama: 269 posts
Posted: Thursday, December 05, 2013 - 03:52 PM UTC
Nightly update
warreni
South Australia, Australia
Joined: August 14, 2007
KitMaker: 5,926 posts
Armorama: 712 posts
Joined: August 14, 2007
KitMaker: 5,926 posts
Armorama: 712 posts
Posted: Friday, December 06, 2013 - 07:06 PM UTC
I got some more done..
Over and out..
Warren
Over and out..
Warren
alewar
Canelones, Uruguay
Joined: December 27, 2006
KitMaker: 773 posts
Armorama: 765 posts
Joined: December 27, 2006
KitMaker: 773 posts
Armorama: 765 posts
Posted: Friday, December 06, 2013 - 09:59 PM UTC
Warren, M., Bob,Mike and Vegard nice works!.
I don't put attention to the Pz.II J before, as I like the shape of the II B/C, but yours looks great, waiting for the end.
Vegard, I have a Vallejo OD primer, did you use tap water or destiled or any dedicated thinner?.
Regards
I don't put attention to the Pz.II J before, as I like the shape of the II B/C, but yours looks great, waiting for the end.
Vegard, I have a Vallejo OD primer, did you use tap water or destiled or any dedicated thinner?.
Regards
warreni
South Australia, Australia
Joined: August 14, 2007
KitMaker: 5,926 posts
Armorama: 712 posts
Joined: August 14, 2007
KitMaker: 5,926 posts
Armorama: 712 posts
Posted: Friday, December 06, 2013 - 10:08 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Warren, M., Bob,Mike and Vegard nice works!.
I don't put attention to the Pz.II J before, as I like the shape of the II B/C, but yours looks great, waiting for the end.
Vegard, I have a Vallejo OD primer, did you use tap water or destiled or any dedicated thinner?.
Regards
Not meaning to take anyone else's thunder, but I use ordinary tap water with Vallejo Acrylics. Nothing else seems to work properly for me.
Cheers
Warren
Pytagoras
Møre og Romsdal, Norway
Joined: December 03, 2012
KitMaker: 300 posts
Armorama: 285 posts
Joined: December 03, 2012
KitMaker: 300 posts
Armorama: 285 posts
Posted: Saturday, December 07, 2013 - 03:37 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Warren, M., Bob,Mike and Vegard nice works!.
I don't put attention to the Pz.II J before, as I like the shape of the II B/C, but yours looks great, waiting for the end.
Vegard, I have a Vallejo OD primer, did you use tap water or destiled or any dedicated thinner?.
Regards
I don't use thinners when I prime with Vallejo. However, I use either the Vallejo thinner or distilled water when I do the ordinary paints. My airbrush is an Iwata HP-C Plus.
modelguy2
Ohio, United States
Joined: March 09, 2002
KitMaker: 818 posts
Armorama: 269 posts
Joined: March 09, 2002
KitMaker: 818 posts
Armorama: 269 posts
Posted: Saturday, December 07, 2013 - 05:44 AM UTC
Update
retiredyank
Arkansas, United States
Joined: June 29, 2009
KitMaker: 11,610 posts
Armorama: 7,843 posts
Joined: June 29, 2009
KitMaker: 11,610 posts
Armorama: 7,843 posts
Posted: Saturday, December 07, 2013 - 06:56 AM UTC
M. Douglas: Your Tiger looks amazing!
Mike: Superb work! Well done, sir. Well done.
Mike: Superb work! Well done, sir. Well done.
Pytagoras
Møre og Romsdal, Norway
Joined: December 03, 2012
KitMaker: 300 posts
Armorama: 285 posts
Joined: December 03, 2012
KitMaker: 300 posts
Armorama: 285 posts
Posted: Saturday, December 07, 2013 - 09:23 AM UTC
Mike: Nice camo on your Panzer IV.
My Panzer II got its base color applied today:
I used the AK Dunkelgrau from their "1937-44 War Color"-set. Although the color is nice, my Iwata HP-C Plus struggles with it. It constantly clogs the airbrush, even when thinned 50/50 and cleaned in an ultra sonic cleaner.
I had to use my cheap airbrush, which did the job eventually.
My Panzer II got its base color applied today:
I used the AK Dunkelgrau from their "1937-44 War Color"-set. Although the color is nice, my Iwata HP-C Plus struggles with it. It constantly clogs the airbrush, even when thinned 50/50 and cleaned in an ultra sonic cleaner.
I had to use my cheap airbrush, which did the job eventually.
warreni
South Australia, Australia
Joined: August 14, 2007
KitMaker: 5,926 posts
Armorama: 712 posts
Joined: August 14, 2007
KitMaker: 5,926 posts
Armorama: 712 posts
Posted: Saturday, December 07, 2013 - 10:44 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Mike: Nice camo on your Panzer IV.
My Panzer II got its base color applied today:
I used the AK Dunkelgrau from their "1937-44 War Color"-set. Although the color is nice, my Iwata HP-C Plus struggles with it. It constantly clogs the airbrush, even when thinned 50/50 and cleaned in an ultra sonic cleaner.
I had to use my cheap airbrush, which did the job eventually.
Hi Vegard.
I found the same problem until I started using ordinary tap water to thin it. Must slow the drying time and stops the airbrush clogging.heaper than buying retarder etc etc
Cheers
Warren
LikesTanks
Wales, United Kingdom
Joined: May 07, 2013
KitMaker: 242 posts
Armorama: 234 posts
Joined: May 07, 2013
KitMaker: 242 posts
Armorama: 234 posts
Posted: Saturday, December 07, 2013 - 12:56 PM UTC
My Italeri PzKpfw IVH is now at the stage many of my models reach and remain, basically built but unpainted. Return rollers and some tools are Tamiya, tracks from Academy and a brass splash guard round the cupola.I was going to use etched turret schurzen from Trumpeter, but the supports are entirely the wrong length so the kit parts went on.
Also thinned and altered the main schurzen so they are removable
Also thinned and altered the main schurzen so they are removable
FirstSergeant
Michigan, United States
Joined: January 02, 2012
KitMaker: 139 posts
Armorama: 65 posts
Joined: January 02, 2012
KitMaker: 139 posts
Armorama: 65 posts
Posted: Saturday, December 07, 2013 - 01:17 PM UTC
Thank you Alvaro, thank you Matt. Builds are amazing here. I think the objective is near.
Regards,
Firstsergeant
Regards,
Firstsergeant