These Relay Valves just might be as small as I ever want to go in the scratch building department!
14 parts per valve assembly.
Armor/AFV
For discussions on tanks, artillery, jeeps, etc.
For discussions on tanks, artillery, jeeps, etc.
Hosted by Darren Baker, Mario Matijasic
My first HEMTT - the Italeri LHS
Posted: Friday, September 09, 2016 - 09:01 PM UTC
Posted: Friday, September 09, 2016 - 10:34 PM UTC
Posted: Friday, September 09, 2016 - 11:03 PM UTC
Epi
Texas, United States
Joined: December 22, 2001
KitMaker: 3,586 posts
Armorama: 2,556 posts
Joined: December 22, 2001
KitMaker: 3,586 posts
Armorama: 2,556 posts
Posted: Saturday, September 10, 2016 - 12:23 AM UTC
I am so jealous Mike, those relay valves look awesome. Wish you could cast these, I would by some off of you to add to my M983 even though I finished it.
The Trumpeter M983 transmission doesn't come with the transmission oil pan molded on or a separate part.
The Trumpeter M983 transmission doesn't come with the transmission oil pan molded on or a separate part.
Posted: Saturday, September 10, 2016 - 12:45 AM UTC
I know it is underneath but the transmission oil pan is a fairly major detail for them to leave off. (You probably knew that would be my attitude!)
Posted: Saturday, September 10, 2016 - 08:32 PM UTC
Tinted windows, how do I do tinted windows? Like I said this is my first modern armor project. Suggestions????
NebLWeffah
Alberta, Canada
Joined: October 13, 2004
KitMaker: 1,683 posts
Armorama: 1,248 posts
Joined: October 13, 2004
KitMaker: 1,683 posts
Armorama: 1,248 posts
Posted: Saturday, September 10, 2016 - 10:35 PM UTC
I sprayed Tamiya clear green diluted with their thinner and added a few drops of clear blue (add more clear blue if the windows are more blue than green). I airbrushed this with very thin mist coats on the inside of the windows. I built up the mist coats (7 or over time letting it dry in between coats.
cheers
Bob
cheers
Bob
Posted: Sunday, September 11, 2016 - 12:21 AM UTC
Well that's two votes for the Tamiya transparent green. My buddy said the exact same thing.
Thanks Bob!
First I tried AlClad Transparent Green on some sample pieces - it worked but it instantly crazed the plastic and turned foggy.
Thanks Bob!
First I tried AlClad Transparent Green on some sample pieces - it worked but it instantly crazed the plastic and turned foggy.
HeavyArty
Florida, United States
Joined: May 16, 2002
KitMaker: 17,694 posts
Armorama: 13,742 posts
Joined: May 16, 2002
KitMaker: 17,694 posts
Armorama: 13,742 posts
Posted: Sunday, September 11, 2016 - 12:37 AM UTC
The clear green will work, but HEMTT windows are clear, not tinted. I think you are just seeing a reflection of the dark green interior that makes them look tinted.
Posted: Sunday, September 11, 2016 - 01:01 AM UTC
Seriously? - I really thought the HEMTTs had the heavy lead anti-laser coating.
HeavyArty
Florida, United States
Joined: May 16, 2002
KitMaker: 17,694 posts
Armorama: 13,742 posts
Joined: May 16, 2002
KitMaker: 17,694 posts
Armorama: 13,742 posts
Posted: Sunday, September 11, 2016 - 01:10 AM UTC
Yup, only the armored versions have the thicker, armored
glass. It is still clear, but has a green tint due to the thickness.
HEMTT w/CPK armored glass.
Standard M1120 w/clear glass.
glass. It is still clear, but has a green tint due to the thickness.
HEMTT w/CPK armored glass.
Standard M1120 w/clear glass.
Posted: Sunday, September 11, 2016 - 07:02 AM UTC
Thirian24
Oklahoma, United States
Joined: September 30, 2015
KitMaker: 2,493 posts
Armorama: 2,344 posts
Joined: September 30, 2015
KitMaker: 2,493 posts
Armorama: 2,344 posts
Posted: Sunday, September 11, 2016 - 07:38 AM UTC
Looking great I can't wait to see the final product.
heliman
New York, United States
Joined: June 14, 2010
KitMaker: 702 posts
Armorama: 604 posts
Joined: June 14, 2010
KitMaker: 702 posts
Armorama: 604 posts
Posted: Sunday, September 11, 2016 - 06:11 PM UTC
Fantastic work and attention to details! Looking forward to future progress
M4A1Sherman
New York, United States
Joined: May 02, 2013
KitMaker: 4,403 posts
Armorama: 4,078 posts
Joined: May 02, 2013
KitMaker: 4,403 posts
Armorama: 4,078 posts
Posted: Sunday, September 11, 2016 - 06:32 PM UTC
Quoted Text
A family weekend therefore only some minor small progress:
Relay valves mounted.
The spare is now locked down.
Just noticed; I need to add the crank handle to the spare tire davit.
YOU GUYS ARE A-FREAKING-MAZING!!!
I'm definitely archiving all of this great info! Every so often I see the HEMMTs of our local US Army National Guard Engineer Battalion...
Posted: Sunday, September 11, 2016 - 06:58 PM UTC
Posted: Monday, September 12, 2016 - 07:39 PM UTC
Posted: Monday, September 12, 2016 - 11:07 PM UTC
Question: Where does this brace anchor in the other end/side?
I always see it on this side of the vehicle and the bracket attachment you see here is included on the Italeri kit but I have yet to find a photo of where it terminates on the other side of the vehicle.
The Eduard etch set for the tanker even includes this brace in brass but does not tell you where to anchor the other end to.
Source of photo:
http://www.primeportal.net/hemtt2/dieter_krause/m1120_lhs/
Dieter Krause - Prime Portal
I always see it on this side of the vehicle and the bracket attachment you see here is included on the Italeri kit but I have yet to find a photo of where it terminates on the other side of the vehicle.
The Eduard etch set for the tanker even includes this brace in brass but does not tell you where to anchor the other end to.
Source of photo:
http://www.primeportal.net/hemtt2/dieter_krause/m1120_lhs/
Dieter Krause - Prime Portal
Posted: Tuesday, September 13, 2016 - 12:43 AM UTC
r2d2
England - South East, United Kingdom
Joined: April 13, 2006
KitMaker: 424 posts
Armorama: 419 posts
Joined: April 13, 2006
KitMaker: 424 posts
Armorama: 419 posts
Posted: Tuesday, September 13, 2016 - 01:10 AM UTC
Enjoyed the build Michael, details are just stunning. On the last photo you have of the lifting arm, the ram shafts of the hydraulics looks on the thinner side of the scale or am I just seeing it at a different angle? Can you measure its diameter on 1/35th and convert it to actual 1:1 scale to just give us an idea of the diameter of the kits part. Thanks
Posted: Tuesday, September 13, 2016 - 01:18 AM UTC
The rams on the Italeri LHS HEMTT are .062 inch or 1/16". If I am not mistaken that works out to a 3 1/4 inch diameter ram. Compared to the many reference photographs on the Prime Portal site, they MIGHT be a tad under sized but look pretty good to me. I did consider rebuilding the rams, maybe even using chrome rod but I wanted a LHS that functioned so I chose, at least for now, to go with the stock Italeri parts.
Taylornic
Tennessee, United States
Joined: January 10, 2005
KitMaker: 337 posts
Armorama: 332 posts
Joined: January 10, 2005
KitMaker: 337 posts
Armorama: 332 posts
Posted: Tuesday, September 13, 2016 - 09:38 AM UTC
The LHS assembly looks top notch!
Posted: Wednesday, September 14, 2016 - 02:10 AM UTC
Posted: Wednesday, September 14, 2016 - 10:46 PM UTC
Working on the glazing now and a few more interior details.
Windshield wiper affect, subtle, hard to capture with the camera. Glass is not yet glued in.
I have a small compass with a cutting blade instead of a pencil. I cut my own clear tape windshield masks using the compass to measure the actual wiper length on the model. The "dirt" is matte clear spray dusted over the windshield glazing in the spray booth. (An old cardboard box with a bathroom vent fan.)
Windshield wiper affect, subtle, hard to capture with the camera. Glass is not yet glued in.
I have a small compass with a cutting blade instead of a pencil. I cut my own clear tape windshield masks using the compass to measure the actual wiper length on the model. The "dirt" is matte clear spray dusted over the windshield glazing in the spray booth. (An old cardboard box with a bathroom vent fan.)
Posted: Thursday, September 15, 2016 - 07:50 AM UTC
Question:
Saturday at the Dayton IPMS, I can place this model either in the "Soft Skins" classification or in the "Scratch Built & Conversions" category.
In which group would you guys think is more appropriate?
Given the addition of the Real Models engine conversion set and the interior cab Eduard etch, plus all the scratch built added details, I am leaning more towards the "Scratch Built & Conversions" class. (Emphasis more on the "Conversions" portion - some hobby groups separate these into two distinct classes but it rarely happens.)
Saturday at the Dayton IPMS, I can place this model either in the "Soft Skins" classification or in the "Scratch Built & Conversions" category.
In which group would you guys think is more appropriate?
Given the addition of the Real Models engine conversion set and the interior cab Eduard etch, plus all the scratch built added details, I am leaning more towards the "Scratch Built & Conversions" class. (Emphasis more on the "Conversions" portion - some hobby groups separate these into two distinct classes but it rarely happens.)