Gary
;o)
Bill

So here is my concept piece for the Rhino/Warlock. This really was an eyeball thing because I don't have any specifications for the mast and images show it at different heights. I had made up measurements on, and the "flag" was just right, but the base ended up being a problem a) because I didn't quite realze the turn down mechanism and I don't have the right pieces of styrene to make it look good. I'm missing the triangle piece in the front and the spirling wire (which I'm adding now), but for now, it'll suffice.





Hopefully this spurs other humvee ideas on.

Jeff

Jeff
Good on ya. It is good to see you working on styrene again, you seem excited by the prospects. I get the gist of the thing but your auto focus on your camera wants to take pictures of your lap top.
Your scale looks good, what is the turn down piece. If you need any pictures feel free to ask and if I have them they're yours. I look forward to your next evolution.
Regards
Bill

Thanks Bill. The camera is an auto-focus only 3.2 megapixel camera, so I just get what I can, oh well. Yea, I haven't scratched anything in months, let alone just worked on a model. What I was referrng to is the gap for the post to lower into which allows the engine hood to then be raised. At first I thought it was just a type of I beam attached to a back plate. Here it is with the wire.









Until I get something resembling standardized measurements, this is really just meant to see what it would look like. I'll play around with it in my head and when I'm bored at work tomorrow -its nice not having a boss looking over my shoulder .

Jeff

Bill I’m sorry I didn’t see this sooner, if it wasn’t for Jeff I would have missed it. Outstanding work with all the detail, it shows in patients and a good eye. I agree with Pete, the turret looks real. It’s amazing how those nuts & bolts pull off the look. I’m also of thinking of doing a Hummer to go with my Stryker.

Making photo-etch…well it worked out, I did some simple one dimension pieces. I looked all over the place for the photos , I guess I no longer have them.

(1) Using a black Sharpie marker I free handed a few designs on a piece of brass .005, I then soaked it in the PCB solution, within 3 min. time the brass started to etch and the solution started to turn black. Turning the brass piece over every 5 min. to agitate the solution.

(2) After 20 min. the brass is starting to dissolve , it’s thinner than a piece of paper. You can still see the black outline.

(3) And here after 35 min. it was finished. I rinsed under cold water to stop the solution from etching any further.

Easy PE

Dave "grumpy" help me with these...

PE 1

PE 2

PE 3

Another thing is I’m amazed how scratch building evolved here on Armorama. We all should get together and pool our resources with pics and submit it as a group article. This way it can be found for all to see. We just need one member who we can send the info to organize, group the photos and write it up.

Looking forward to your next update.

Joe

Jeff, I hate to do this, because the Rhyno (Army spelling) you've made looks great. But,the extension beam on all Rhynos is composed of two sections, one inside the other, so the length can be adjusted.

Well son of a gun. Oh well, I kind of saw that coming but I wasn't paying too close attention to catch it. You wouldn't happen to know the fully extendable length of the "Rhyno" - hehe the Army does some really weird things...like naming stuff, would you. Finding specifications both inside and outside Army circles has been somewhat eluding to me. Also, I sent you a PM with some further questions. Thanks for the corrections, I learn something new everyday.

Jeff

As good as I could get it

Bill

Thanks Bill, I'd noticed it on that picture, but the image zoom helps a lot especially to see the screws that hold it in place. It isn't as apparent in the other photos which was what I based it off of. The next task is to find basic dimensions of the pole. From some of the pictures, the top of the device was relatively level with the roof, while in the pics with it more extended, it looks like the bottom of the "flag" clears the top of most turrets. Like I said, since I don't have specific measurements (HINT, HINT ) I'm just using my eyeball and imagination to go off of.

However I can't imagine that thing operationally going much higher than just above those turrets. I'd bet, while the device itself isn't probably much more than 50-75lbs (i.e. not that heavy), the higher up it goes, the more its going to "wiggle" and the more strain its putting on the base.

Jeff

These look like they are at different heights, but we'd have to rely on the kindness of those in the know to provide measurements. It'd be nice to nail this one down.
Bill

That's great work, Boggie!
Mother, I have not forgotten you. I still have not received mail (well, we never do, we drive half a day to go get it) but I assume there may be something waiting. The good news is, I've found the Cougar again. Apparently it was gone several weeks after having a lot of cosmetic damage replaced, as well as being overhauled. As usual, photos at first op. There's still some IED damage to be seen.

Joe
Thanks for your comments and the tutorial of PE. I really think that it is a skill that I need right about now. I'm trying to hand fabricate the little 3MM frames that hold the glass panels in place with my etchmate, PE would be so much better.
There is a high level of experience among you senior Armorama modelers, and it would be a great resource for certain. The problem is always finding some one who also has the same skill so they can see the difference between good and bad work, can write, has the time to compile and publish as a blog or on line article here. I tell ya EPI did a fine job on his TOW missile article a while back, at least I think it was Epi, was it? Jeff is our academic with no time, how about you Joe?
Anyways it is a great idea and there are some great skill here. I posted over in Model Geek scratch building as well in case anyone there would be interested in my project.
How's the Rhino (Rhyno) build off coming along?
Bill

Yup, it was me who wrote the TOW articles. Thanks for the comment. But it does help when you have the resources, such as the manuals and the equipment, readily available. I try my hardest only to give out information I definately know or if I have the resources to find the answer, I will do that.

As for the Rhyno, I'm gonna try this weekend, but I decided to go ahead and add it to my M1114. I looked at the AFV M1130 Stryker kit and it has the WARLOCK antenna in it. I might go ahead and add a Rhyno to that one when I get that kit.

18 Bravo
Here is the picture that shows all the errors (found this after) The raised joy stick, the butt stock holder. I see that the clip is adjustable with an Allen wrench so the gunner can slide the barrel clip back and forth depending on the preferred rifle configuration. The butt stock piece shown, is there more to it then what can be seen? I guess the angle of the rear plate jams the rifle in place by gravity and the barrel clip keeps it firmly in place? I have seen many more pictures with a rifle laid beside the gunner and not using the clip, is there an issue with the clip butt stock configuration?
Any way it is all details, any light on this would be a great help.
Bill

I made a concept drawing today at work, but because my boss decided I need to work the university's arena concourse (read, 4 hours of walking and making sure no one dies while jogging...) instead of supervising one of the gyms (read: sitting on my butt for 3 hours with about 15 minutes of real work to do and a pretty worker I know from high school to talk to ) I wasn't able to draw anything up with measurements.

I guestimated during my initial drawings to have the pole fully extended to be about 70mm (which will put the "flag" above most turrets) and the flag itself being 20x15mm - if you look closely, the flag is "taller" than "wider" and I added 2mm wide strips around a .30 sheet of stock styrene. Hopefully this weekend I'll get the drawing scanned and posted and monday I can make my drawing with measurements. Who knows.

Jeff
Pretty girls, modeling, pretty girls, modeling if you are not careful you'll have both but then you'll be fighting the pretty girl for the time to model!
Frenchy has found a very nice image of the Rhyno and thought to share it with you.

I look forward to your drawing.
Bill

The angle of that image helps immeasurably. Thanks. I'm about to go to work, so I should have the image scanned tonight.

Jeff

This is awesome stuff. I can't keep up with all the changes of the Humvee, but these versions are cool looking. Reminds me of the Mad Max cars...

I'd like to get around to doing a Humvee or two, but I still have so many other ideas up first.

This is NOT TO SCALE, just what I doodle-ish



This is also inaccurate, but something to base off of. It needs quite a bit of rework. Just thought I'd share. All numbers are in millimeters and the humvee profile is estimated numbers based on tracing my 1/35 M1114 - ie take with a large grain of salt.



Jeff

Robert
Thanks for the encouragement! They are very much like the mad max trucks.

Today I started framing the B-glass . Like I said the glass is CD case glass (Frenchy tip) that I covered on both sides with Para Film then trimmed the 1mm edges on the front and painted.

I then cyano glued the glass to the turret careful to align the view from the inside after removing the Para film. I then used my chopper to cut 1mm thin styrene strips, sanded the outer edges round then glued that to the turret surrounding the glass of each one, then the front glass and then the sides......again and again.

edit
Jeff you posted just as I did. Nice drawings. Are you going to do the attachment to the vehicle as well?

If its what I think you are talking about, the attachment is included in the drawing. Its the plate that attaches with four bolts (2 on either side) and the tow hooks are attached over it.

Bill, a very nice turret. I like the CD case tip, I'll have to remember that. How hard was it to cut?

Jeff

Jeff
Yes, the clear plastic was a challenge. I covered the entire piece of CD plastic with Para Film on both sides to protect it from scratches. I tried scoring which, when snapped, left small spall frackures along the break line which interfered with the clarity of the plastic. I sawed along the line but I found it hard to end up with a square window each time, so I cut the windows with a .5mm buffer and sanded them square to the line. The more the Para Film is handled the warmer and stickier it gets so it probably isn't idea for this application, perhaps an airbrush frisk-it might work better.
Thanks for the explanation about the attach point, I was having dreams about Rhyno's last night, not sugar plums.
Bill

NO BILL, SANTA IS NOT BRINGING YOU AN ANTI-IED JAMMER FOR CHRISTMAS!!!!


lol, I think you have the humvee bug the worst. Doctor's recommendations is to take some time off and spend it with the family. Merry Christmas.

As for the plastic, I wonder if stock clear stryene would have the same spalling effect. Something to think about. The clear plastic I've cut has been markedly thinner than that which you are using, so who knows.... Anyway, like I said, take break, and have a great Christmas.

Jeff

Ah come on, I've got the 1:1 sub assembly already on my Tacoma. I'll be the only one in Newfoundland with my own IED jammer, bet ya it works too.
I finished up the rifle butt stock holder the new barrel clip, rebuilt the joystick so it has the proper base and painted the whole thing again. I took off the para film and it looks pretty good. For the time I took to make this one turret I could have built a Stryker by all accounts! Ah well three more doors, a Rhyno some Dukes and a CREW pod and I'm ready for the vehicle then ;o)
I'm counting on Real Models to have the LAV III conversion done by the time I get this 1114 done, that'll be a nice change for a while.
Merry Christmas Jeff to you and yours.
Bill

Jeff
Another Rhyno picture from the front, (never mind the model).
Anybody out there know the width and height of the gun shield?
Anyone have a detail shot of how the MG and shield mounts on the pintle post?

Merry Christmas
Bill