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Jagdpanzer IV L/70
Bratushka
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Indiana, United States
Joined: May 09, 2008
KitMaker: 1,019 posts
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Posted: Monday, February 16, 2009 - 11:05 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Justin, well she turned out mighty nice, great job!! My only critique on the camo pattern is that technically the yellow 'spots' were created by spraying over a stencil of circles so that the ;spots; were actually the negative space in-between the circles and would have had concave curves (see below). Having said that I think you got the effect pretty good without your airbrush!

@Jim
The scheme displayed here technically isn't an 'ambush scheme' but a 'disc type' camo sometimes referred to as TII. The difference is that the ambush pattern was applied by either spraying the green and brown on over the yellow in circle shapes by hand or using a cut out circle (the inside, or donut hole part) and then dark yellow dots or triangles were added over top.
The disc type was made by first painting the soft edge three color camo scheme (just as Justin did) and then cutting out a few dozen circles, taping them together so they slightly overlap to make a stencil and then overspraying the dark yellow so that it fills in the spaces between the circles (the negative space from around the outside of the circles) I know its kind of difficult to express in words but if you click on the links I posted on the last page you can get a good idea of what I mean.
It was a pretty rare pattern probably because of the complexity of application but it has been documented on Jagdpanzer IVs from the ardennes and some panthers from the LAH (as seen in te heimdal book)

Anyways, great job Justin...now onto the Jagdpanther??




Hi Justin. I know that museum restorations are often inaccurate. It's another one of those things that add confusion to the whole scheme of trying to figure out what was what. I put up the link purely as an example of the camo scheme, not as a reference or color guide. I know when i have tried to research German paint colors and guides I found so much conflicting information and things I had never heard before. Some authorities have stated that no paint samples exist from any WWII German AFV paints. Others have said they do exist and some have even claimed possession of them. One individual wrote that German AFV interiors were actually partially blue, and not fully the ivory or buff color. I have read that all German radios were blue but I found a site whose owner collects and restores WWII German radios. And they were of half a dozen colors. As I mentioned earlier, some say paint shortages existed; some say there never were any. Claims have been made that primered road wheels were installed towards the end of the war; others scream this is Heresy but then photos were shown of this very thing. As you point out, there were field applications left to the creativity of the crews. I read somewhere on this forum some months back that there is a definitive book being written to clarify much of this stuff. If the author hasn't gone insane yet, I hope he completes it and it is printed and affordable.

Anyway, I'm looking forward to following your next build!

Hi Tskross! Interesting about the camo definitions you provided. Thank you! It seems that the ambush pattern as shown in the World War II Zone link isn't something I can say I have actually seen before and definitively identified it as such. It looks more like a variation of the Mickey Mouse pattern the British used as far as the over-lapping circles go. I can sort of see it in some vehicles, but it doesn't seem to be uniformly applied. I understand what you are saying in your description, but I would think there wouldn't be the linear edges and smooth arcs that define the edges of the different colors. Were they made of continuous overlapping circles, I would think they'd have at least a somewhat serrated appearance along the edges. I don't see the concave sided triangles and diamond shapes that would result from circles overlaying an area. While it is possible to overlap circles close enough together to give the appearance of a smooth edge, I would think it easier to just paint a smooth edge to begin with. Or is what you are saying that the yellow was then sprayed on those shapes, the triangles, diamonds, etc. to fill them out? It might be my eyes aren't as good as they once were and I can't pick the shapes and shading transitions out of the old B&W photos as well as I once did. Then again, maybe true ambush camo wasn't all that widely used. I had heard the 3 color, green, brown, and yellow, irregular shaped camo pattern with the flecks of a contrasting color in each color called ambush camo so that's where I likely picked it up from. I thought it was the addition of the flecks that differentiated it from the normal 3 color pattern and is what made it the ambush variety. I wonder now if that flecked scheme is called something else? The first picture in the WWII Zone thread -second actually since the first has been taken down- I have heard that sharp, angular pattern called "carpet camo". Always something!
tskross
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New York, United States
Joined: August 29, 2008
KitMaker: 160 posts
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Posted: Tuesday, February 17, 2009 - 05:22 AM UTC
@Jim
I don't want to hijack Justin's thread, so maybe I'll start a new post to illustrate the process!

EDIT:
Check out this thread I started in the painting section:
Disc Camo Application
jjumbo
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British Columbia, Canada
Joined: August 27, 2006
KitMaker: 2,012 posts
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Posted: Tuesday, February 17, 2009 - 08:18 AM UTC
Hey Justin,
You look like you're getting along with your Jagdpanzer IV !
I've added a post to tskross's thread about another technique for painting a disc camo.

https://armorama.kitmaker.net/forums/134365&page=1#1118885

Looking forward to your finished build and seeing your Jagdpanther!!!
Cheers

jjumbo
integraguy95
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Tennessee, United States
Joined: October 02, 2008
KitMaker: 308 posts
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Posted: Tuesday, February 17, 2009 - 10:33 AM UTC

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Looking forward to your finished build and seeing your Jagdpanther!!!



the jagdpanzer is done!.....uh...unless i missed something...

the jagdpanther is nearly there....just the tracks, ovm tools, and weathering.
jjumbo
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British Columbia, Canada
Joined: August 27, 2006
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Posted: Tuesday, February 17, 2009 - 03:16 PM UTC

Quoted Text

the jagdpanzer is done!.....uh...unless i missed something....



Hey Justin,
So it is...........My bad........
I have a habit of going to the last page of a post and sometimes miss things !!!
Anyway, it looks pretty good but I wouldn't want to be in the commander's hatch if that Panzerfaust got cooked off !!
You might want to stow it and the rifle in a more secure and safe position on the engine deck ??
Anticipating your JP !!!
Cheers

jjumbo
integraguy95
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Tennessee, United States
Joined: October 02, 2008
KitMaker: 308 posts
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Posted: Tuesday, February 17, 2009 - 09:05 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Anyway, it looks pretty good but I wouldn't want to be in the commander's hatch if that Panzerfaust got cooked off !!



Well, im not a panzerfaust expert but I know our rifles usually need some hours of sunlight to cook off, and giving that this jagd is in the middle of the ardennes...i think it will be alright....if not bye bye commander....oh and its superglued in place



Quoted Text

Anticipating your JP !!!



She will be done soon...
jjumbo
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British Columbia, Canada
Joined: August 27, 2006
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Posted: Wednesday, February 18, 2009 - 05:49 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Well, im not a panzerfaust expert but I know our rifles usually need some hours of sunlight to cook off, and giving that this jagd is in the middle of the ardennes...i think it will be alright....if not bye bye commander....oh and its superglued in place



Hey Justin,
I guess I meant "cooked off" by either a) the heat coming from the engine deck or b) a stray rifle round or shrapnel.
Being that the Panzerfaust was basically a primitive RPG, would you leave an AT4 or SMAW sitting like that on any vehicle you were riding in ???
Not me !!! You're not kidding when you say bye bye commander,
Anyway, bring on the JP !!!
Cheers

jjumbo
RSingleton
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Kentucky, United States
Joined: August 26, 2008
KitMaker: 286 posts
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Posted: Wednesday, February 18, 2009 - 08:35 AM UTC
Sorry I have'nt been able to reply lately Justin, I 've been so busy that I can't work on anything

the JP looks very well done so far. The only thing I'd maybe say is that it looks a little bright? It may just be the flash of the camera too close to the model. I really like the camo job.

Extremely good job. It's nice to see how much you've improved within a short period of time.

Richard
integraguy95
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Tennessee, United States
Joined: October 02, 2008
KitMaker: 308 posts
Armorama: 304 posts
Posted: Wednesday, February 18, 2009 - 02:21 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Sorry I have'nt been able to reply lately Justin, I 've been so busy that I can't work on anything

the JP looks very well done so far. The only thing I'd maybe say is that it looks a little bright? It may just be the flash of the camera too close to the model. I really like the camo job.

Extremely good job. It's nice to see how much you've improved within a short period of time.

Richard



Rich, thanks for dropping by again! I understand about being busy, the army has kept me away from the bench more than I care for. She does look bright, but its not from the flash as I had that off. Its from a comination of the sunlight and the gloss coat that was laid down prior to my oil wash. trying an oil wash on a matte finish is not a very good idea as the paint will flow everywhere. the gloss coat dries and creates a slippery surface that the paint MUST flow into the nooks and crannies rather than over the flat parts. I tried to tone her down with a good dusting of Mr. Hobby dark brown and light brown pastels but the gloss coat still comes through a bit.

Thanks for noticing the improvement of my modelling skills, and I've seen that Kubelwagon of yours, and she's looking pretty nice! I would say two things that will help you out the most my friend is to save up and buy yourself some good oil paints (i use windsor and newton). Buy olive green, burnt sienna, and yellow ochre atleast. Also, pick up a can of matte and gloss topcoats. Lay your basecoat down and any camoflage you may use and your decals. also, if you are going to apply any paint chips or scratches, now would be the time. then lay down your gloss coat. let that dry for a day until it is good and hard...careful, if you handle it too early you will leave fingerprints that are impossible to remove. then place a blob of oil paint in your paint cup and add some turpentine. i do not mix the blob of paint, rather let that sit in the cup and dip my brush near the blob and make sure that the paint is thin enough, and softly apply it to the area I wish the paint to run into. you will see the paint take off from the brush and rush through the crevices of engine hatches, around bolts and other access hatches. Then when this is dry, say another day, lay down two coats of matte to dull down that gloss coat a bit and seal in that oil wash. This is when I apply my filter and i use the "dot-filter method" using oil paints again. The purpose of those coats is to, among other things, prevent your thinners from chewing up the previous layers of paint. You will see the effect that I am trying to explain, there are several sites I have for you, but I am not using my home computer at the moment and those sites are saved into my favorites. I will PM those sites to you and any further explanation of the above techniques if you would like.

To everyone else, please correct me if I have got any of these steps wrong. I know we all have certain steps we take but I am certainly not the authority on painting and do not want to pass off inaccurate information!
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