Jesse, while I don't post often on your Grant build, I've been there every step of the way. Your skills as a detail modeler are equal to the best of the best I've seen here.
Joel
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Bronco M24 Chaffee Light Tank
Joel_W
Associate Editor
Joined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 11,666 posts
Armorama: 1,143 posts
Posted: Tuesday, March 05, 2013 - 04:53 AM UTC
Removed by original poster on 05/14/19 - 01:22:51 (GMT).
Joel_W
Associate EditorJoined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 11,666 posts
Armorama: 1,143 posts
Posted: Tuesday, March 05, 2013 - 05:37 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextPoor eyesight sure doesn't help.
I know how you feel Joel, after a lifetime of being badly short sighted (in more ways than one, lol), my eyes have started to switch to long sighted, it's causing me huge problems with regards to focus, I kinda have to wait for my eyes to be in the mood now, before I do anything.
I feel your frustration. I have astigmatisms in both eyes. Glasses took care of most of those issues. 5 years ago I got what is commonly called Retina Edema in both eyes. Had 2 laser surgeries in the left, and 1 surgery in the right eye. Left eye is classed as legally blind. Can't even read the Big E on the chart. Right eye the RE is just off the right where the pupil focuses, so they're trying to keep the disease under control so I don't loose focusable vision in the right eye. It is what it is.
To make glasses now they just use the lens from the right for the left. Doesn't make much of a difference one way or the other.
I'm amazed that the brain can still over come the left so I can see one basically focused image.
Joel
Joel_W
Associate EditorJoined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 11,666 posts
Armorama: 1,143 posts
Posted: Saturday, March 09, 2013 - 06:39 AM UTC
Finally, the hull is complete minus wheels and tracks, so I thought it was time for a base coat of my Tamiya O.D. mix of XF-62 O.D & X-60 Dark Yellow. I vary this mixture to achieve color modulation, and fading before weathering with filters and washes. The 1st base coat is just for coverage to check for mistakes etc., so any areas that don't have full coverage isn't an issue at this point.
The moving of the windscreen do to my lack of focus came out fine. A little putty work took care of any surface issues.
The suspension has been glued into place as I see no reason to have any part of it movable. Took more time and effort then I thought to accomplish it, but now the hull is level to the ground, and the all the struts touch the ground as well.
The wheels/tires don't really mount securely to the struts, as there is once again a lot of sloppiness, so after they're painted up, it will be a slow process of one wheel at a time to glue into position.
The tools were a real bear. Between the PE brackets and straps, I felt overwhelmed, but managed to get them into their approximate locations. Did the best I could, but it's not exactly as shown in the instructions.
The rear shelf for the so called upgrade is to replace the PE basket that I screwed up, looks pretty good. With stowage, and the milk can, it will workout just fine.
Here's a few pictures of my slow progress up todate.
Again, I'd like to thank Jesse for his constant help and suggestions.
Joel
The moving of the windscreen do to my lack of focus came out fine. A little putty work took care of any surface issues.
The suspension has been glued into place as I see no reason to have any part of it movable. Took more time and effort then I thought to accomplish it, but now the hull is level to the ground, and the all the struts touch the ground as well.
The wheels/tires don't really mount securely to the struts, as there is once again a lot of sloppiness, so after they're painted up, it will be a slow process of one wheel at a time to glue into position.
The tools were a real bear. Between the PE brackets and straps, I felt overwhelmed, but managed to get them into their approximate locations. Did the best I could, but it's not exactly as shown in the instructions.
The rear shelf for the so called upgrade is to replace the PE basket that I screwed up, looks pretty good. With stowage, and the milk can, it will workout just fine.
Here's a few pictures of my slow progress up todate.
Again, I'd like to thank Jesse for his constant help and suggestions.
Joel
Joel_W
Associate EditorJoined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 11,666 posts
Armorama: 1,143 posts
Posted: Saturday, March 09, 2013 - 06:49 AM UTC
I'm also having a real hard time with the tow cable. I've drilled out the cable eye, but the thread is still to big. Anyone have an idea of how to get this to work?
Joel
Joel
Removed by original poster on 05/14/19 - 01:23:08 (GMT).
Joel_W
Associate EditorJoined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 11,666 posts
Armorama: 1,143 posts
Posted: Sunday, March 10, 2013 - 03:48 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextI'm also having a real hard time with the tow cable. I've drilled out the cable eye, but the thread is still to big. Anyone have an idea of how to get this to work?
Joel
Use picture hanging wire (art shops), it weathers up well, and seems to fit most cable eyes that you find in kits.
Matt, Thanks for the idea. I never thought of that.
Joel
pseudorealityx
Joined: January 31, 2010
KitMaker: 2,191 posts
Armorama: 1,814 posts
Posted: Sunday, March 10, 2013 - 06:43 AM UTC
I just super glue the end of the tow eye to the end of the thread.
I did notice you're missing a few smaller hull details. There's a 'bar' that goes over the end of the shovel (step 22), and there's 2 small 'knobs' that are the keepers for the driver/hull machine gunner when they're opened.(step 13)
Otherwise, looks pretty darn good.
The windshield would either be fully upright, perpendicular to the ground, or layed flat, parallel to the glacis plate.
I did notice you're missing a few smaller hull details. There's a 'bar' that goes over the end of the shovel (step 22), and there's 2 small 'knobs' that are the keepers for the driver/hull machine gunner when they're opened.(step 13)
Otherwise, looks pretty darn good.
The windshield would either be fully upright, perpendicular to the ground, or layed flat, parallel to the glacis plate.
Joel_W
Associate EditorJoined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 11,666 posts
Armorama: 1,143 posts
Posted: Sunday, March 10, 2013 - 07:01 AM UTC
Jesse, Yep. I noticed a few small detail pcs I left off. Will be adding them ASAP. I also realized that I screwed up the vertical positioning of the windscreen, but I'm going to have to live with it as is. Can't see any way to fix it now. Will try your cable idea, if not I'll go with something from the spare's box.
This is one of, if not the hardest, most complex model I've ever built.
Joel
This is one of, if not the hardest, most complex model I've ever built.
Joel
oldbean
Joined: July 05, 2004
KitMaker: 769 posts
Armorama: 461 posts
Posted: Sunday, March 10, 2013 - 09:15 AM UTC
Joel,
Great BLOG! For tow cables I like to take 2 or 3 strands of fine solder wire(depending on how thick I want it), chuck one end into my Dremel and hold the other with a pair of pliers. Turn the drill on for an instand and there you go. Instant tow cable. Soft and pliable, holds any shape and takes paint like a champ.
Jesse (the other one)
Great BLOG! For tow cables I like to take 2 or 3 strands of fine solder wire(depending on how thick I want it), chuck one end into my Dremel and hold the other with a pair of pliers. Turn the drill on for an instand and there you go. Instant tow cable. Soft and pliable, holds any shape and takes paint like a champ.
Jesse (the other one)
Joel_W
Associate EditorJoined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 11,666 posts
Armorama: 1,143 posts
Posted: Sunday, March 10, 2013 - 12:03 PM UTC
Jesse, super idea. I've got a Dremel, just need to go to Home Depot and find some solder.
Joel
Joel
Removed by original poster on 05/14/19 - 01:23:26 (GMT).
terrybarrett
Joined: November 20, 2010
KitMaker: 195 posts
Armorama: 180 posts
Posted: Sunday, March 10, 2013 - 12:48 PM UTC
Hey Joel!
Just found your build and subscribed! Look forward to following. I built the italeri Chaffee before the Bronco one was released. I'm sure i'll get around to building this one eventually. Such a cool little tank!
Keep up the good work!
Terry
Just found your build and subscribed! Look forward to following. I built the italeri Chaffee before the Bronco one was released. I'm sure i'll get around to building this one eventually. Such a cool little tank!
Keep up the good work!
Terry
pseudorealityx
Joined: January 31, 2010
KitMaker: 2,191 posts
Armorama: 1,814 posts
Posted: Sunday, March 10, 2013 - 01:31 PM UTC
Quoted Text
ps, Does anyone make an engine kit for this Chaffee kit ?, I have found a full fighting compartment set (Verlinden), but can't find an engine compartment.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Verlinden-Productions-1-35-Scale-M24-Chaffee-Engine-Compartment-Bronco-2728-/170854590374
Verlinden does the engine bay too.
oldbean
Joined: July 05, 2004
KitMaker: 769 posts
Armorama: 461 posts
Posted: Sunday, March 10, 2013 - 10:14 PM UTC
The picture wire is good, but it's very stiff. The solder wire is soft and flexible. One roll of solder wire and you have enough for a lifetime. Plus, by adjusting the number of strands you use, you can model different sizes of tow cables (after all, they are not all the same size). But hey, what ever works for each person, as long as they are happy with the results, no problems! 
Jesse
Jesse
Joel_W
Associate EditorJoined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 11,666 posts
Armorama: 1,143 posts
Posted: Monday, March 11, 2013 - 01:05 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Hey Joel!
Just found your build and subscribed! Look forward to following. I built the italeri Chaffee before the Bronco one was released. I'm sure i'll get around to building this one eventually. Such a cool little tank!
Keep up the good work!
Terry
Terry, Welcome to my humble build thread . It's not in your M32B1 class build, that's for sure. Been following every post as your PE is just amazing.
Joel
Removed by original poster on 05/14/19 - 01:23:45 (GMT).
Joel_W
Associate EditorJoined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 11,666 posts
Armorama: 1,143 posts
Posted: Monday, March 11, 2013 - 03:25 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I have been looking at ref pictures because I am thinking about doing a Chaffee, and I spotted this strange item on the hull side.
What on earth is it ?, it looks like an oversized tie down hook, lol, but that's just me being silly, and Bronco have it the wrong way round, or it's fitted wrong, or it can rotate, one of the three.
ps, I take it from reading this build log that the upper rear engine deck comes in seperate parts ?, is that right ?, ie engine hatches can be left open without too much cutting ?
And thx to Jesse for the engine info, I looked through the whole blinkin Verlinden book and never spotted the engine.
Matt, thanks for pointing out that I have whatever they call it orientated wrong. Will just soak in some Extra thin and put it in the vertical orientation. Although, once the wheels and tracks are on, it's not something that's easily seen.
And yes the entire engine deck is made up of separate pieces, so if you want to do the engine compartment, it's easy to accomplish without major surgery.
Joel
pseudorealityx
Joined: January 31, 2010
KitMaker: 2,191 posts
Armorama: 1,814 posts
Posted: Monday, March 11, 2013 - 03:59 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I have been looking at ref pictures because I am thinking about doing a Chaffee, and I spotted this strange item on the hull side.
What on earth is it ?, it looks like an oversized tie down hook, lol, but that's just me being silly, and Bronco have it the wrong way round, or it's fitted wrong, or it can rotate, one of the three.
ps, I take it from reading this build log that the upper rear engine deck comes in seperate parts ?, is that right ?, ie engine hatches can be left open without too much cutting ?
And thx to Jesse for the engine info, I looked through the whole blinkin Verlinden book and never spotted the engine.
Hey Matt,
It's a hook shaped tie down, possibly for rail travel. There's a very similar piece on the M3 Stuart lower hull as well.
The engine deck is made of 9 parts, so modeling the engine bay, battery racks, and fuel tanks would be really easy.
The WWP Chaffee in Detail book has a number of nice color photos of an engine bay.
The Bronco kit is really nice. The instructions leave a bit to be desired... both in terms of construction order, as well as what 'options' go with for the particular tank you're trying to model to maintain accuracy.
Removed by original poster on 05/14/19 - 01:24:06 (GMT).
Joel_W
Associate EditorJoined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 11,666 posts
Armorama: 1,143 posts
Posted: Monday, March 11, 2013 - 05:54 AM UTC
Matt, careful dry fitting, and all 9 pieces fit like a glove.
Joel
Joel
pseudorealityx
Joined: January 31, 2010
KitMaker: 2,191 posts
Armorama: 1,814 posts
Posted: Monday, March 11, 2013 - 07:26 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Matt, careful dry fitting, and all 9 pieces fit like a glove.
Joel
LOTS of dry fitting, and sanding, and filing...
But they do all fit. I would suggest starting from the turret ring and moving back, 1 'step' at a time.
Joel_W
Associate EditorJoined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 11,666 posts
Armorama: 1,143 posts
Posted: Monday, March 11, 2013 - 08:05 AM UTC
Jesse, that's how I did it. And like you said it took lots of dry fitting, sanding, etc, but in the end it was worth it.
Joel
Joel
Removed by original poster on 05/14/19 - 01:24:28 (GMT).
pseudorealityx
Joined: January 31, 2010
KitMaker: 2,191 posts
Armorama: 1,814 posts
Posted: Monday, March 11, 2013 - 03:43 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Just one thing left that is still leaving me a little confused.com, do all 3 kits now come with the revised turret ?, or just the British and Korean versions ?
It's not a big issue for me, I can mod the turret, but would be handy to know in advance of a purchase.
I spent a few hours on the internet stealing reference pictures (lol), and omg there is so much available for the Chaffee, in one hour I got more useful reference for the Chaffee than I would in three months for a blinkin T-55.
Every Chaffee kit you buy 'new' has the revised turret. Every Asian or Korean war kit has the new turret included. Only the VERY first batch of US Army "Early production" kits had the old turret, and those were pretty much sold out here in the USA in the first month or two of sales. So unless you pickup someone's old kit from Ebay or a show or something, you're getting the new turret.
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