This is my 1st Bronco kit, so I was going into the build with some intrepidation, and concerns about all the macro parts, as well as the complexity of the kit. Unlike the usual sub par instructions I've come to expect from my DML kit builds, Bronco has done a fantastic job with theirs. It's a 26 page glossy booklet with precise and accurate line drawings. CAD drawings are included for any detailed areas to help you with assembly.

I've read Russ Amott's M24 build review, and it's excellent, as it's been a great help for a novice like myself. As Russ alluded to, this isn't a quick, easy weekend build. It's one detailed sub assembly after another, that requires careful dry fitting, and adjustments before gluing up. I've gotten through the lower hull and suspension, and haven't found any issues that caused me any concerns other then the PE hull casting numbers.

I started with the assembly of the lower hull tub. I really struggled with those PE individual casting numbers. All three rows on one side took me well over an hour, and I managed to loose two numbers. For the other side I only used the top row after Jesse in his excellent M24 post, replied to my question on how he applied those PE numbers. He said that the early version M24 only used a single row.Issue solved. Thanks Jesse.

Each wheel has a torsion bar that is glued at just the far interior end so that the wheel suspension some what works by allowing the bar to flex. Every alternating pair has a cover with channels for each bar.





Here's what those covers look like top & bottom.



Next up was the assembly of the suspension which consists of individual struts, shocks, as well as the Idle wheel assemblies. the shocks are held in place with little pins that are very easy to loose to the Carpet Monster. Believe me I know.



Here's a close up of one wheel's suspension. You'll notice that I had to make a pin to replace all the lost ones to the Carpet Monster. I still have to trim it, then cut a hex rod for the nut assembly cover.



I also managed with much skill to loose the the piston portion of one shock. I didn't have the right size OD tubing, but i did have some Hex tubing that fit. So I cut a piece to length, filed one end down on each side so that I had a mounting plate after sanding to shape. Drilled a hole for the mounting pin. Then I covered the piece with Squadron white stuff, and sanded to shape when dry.



I'm just starting the sub assemblies for the drive sprockets, Idler wheels, and road wheels, which are all little individual mini kits by themselves.

So far I'm really enjoying the build with the exception of the carpet monster continually eating dropped parts.

Joel

Looks like you are off to a great start.

Russ, thanks. It's your reviews/builds that have gotten me through more then one build. Keep 'em coming.

Joel

Definately post up if you have any questions Joel. There's a few of us who've built this one.

Will do Jesse. Thanks.

With today being a National Holiday, I actually have the day off from work for a change. I had the morning all to myself, so I got in a good solid work session.

1st up was to build the drive sprockets, which are a complex sub-assembly. With just a little clean up, the parts fit perfectly. Unlike most other kits, the differential cover is part of the assembly, rather then being glued to the lower hull.

Here's the instructions so you can see how many parts comprise one drive sprocket assembly.





Next came the 10 double road wheels. Each one was once again a complex sub assembly. As I'm starting to expect, all the parts fit perfectly with just a little clean up needed.





And finally the idle wheel sub assemblies. There is a ring that seats just inside the wheel face on both sides, and has a very slight lip. I'm guessing that it's there to add additional structural strength to the wheel. It took a little sanding and massaging to get it to slip into place, but the end result is worth the extra effort.





Joel

Put a piece of sandpaper flat on your table and swipe the idler around until you get rid of that lip/seam. It's pretty noticeable when finished, IMO.

I would also wait to mount the wheels, idler, and sprocket until after you've done some more, as the connection points are very fragile.

Jesse, I thought that the lip was supposed to be there. If not, I'll sand it off.

I'm not mounting the the sprockets, idle wheels or road wheels until after the hull is completed.

Joel

The 'ring' sits slightly deeper than the outside, but from my first look at yours, the ring was protruding a bit.

Photo of real thing:

http://www.track-link.com/articles/1219/4

Jesse, thanks. I actually have a picture of the other side, and still screwed it up. Will try to use Extra Thin to loosen the ring an push them further down into the wheel.

I just sanded it flush. Don't tell anyone.

Jesse, I took another good look at the Idler wheels, and one that ring does protrude a tad. I sanded the lip back so that there is no part of the ring protruding. I also sanding the ring on the other Idler so they're the same.
Joel

I've been doing a few additional Google searches on the M24, trying to find some pictures of any Chaffee using those side skirts that come in the kit, but I've yet to find any. Were they just a factory item that was quickly discarded in the field for one reason or another?

Joel

Limit your search to black and white, and you'll see them more frequently.

Was there a specific reason you didn't use them in your build?

Joel

Hello Joel,

Just found this thread and subscribed. Looking forward to your build. Have you seen Jesse's Chaffee....WOW!

Gary

I modeled mine after a specific pair of photos. My skirts are damaged to match the photos. This means that in some places, the 'angled' bracket piece that held the side skirts are still in place, and for other areas, the entire thing had been ripped off.

Thanks Jesse. AT this point I'm still going to need to do more research (B&W pics as you suggested) to see if the skirts are indeed used.

While test fitting the upper hull glacis, it's a really tight fit as the lower hull section walls are to narrow in width. I think that I'll paint the interior dirty flat white, then glue the Glacis in place, then back step to adding the drivers foul weather screen, which will also aid in its construction in the open position.

Joel

Hi Gary, and welcome. And yes, I've seen and bookmarked Jesse's M24. Just an outstanding build. Jesse has been kind enough to let me bounce my never ending questions at him.

Joel

Agreed. Bronco would have you install all sorts of tiny little fragile bits before putting the big pieces together. I definitely waited to put the small stuff on until the end.

As far as painting the interior... if you're going to leave the hatches open without any figures, you'll want to do at least a 'basic' hull floor, as it's pretty easy to see beyond the breech assembly. And a rear firewall for that matter. If you do NOT want to show off those spaces, I would suggest painting that area BLACK, so it won't be noticeable on the finished thing.

Also, I scratchbuilt and painted the entire interior AFTER I had glued the hulls together. It wasn't so bad, since the turret ring is big.

Jesse, I like your idea about painting the interior flat black, as I don't intend to do any interior additions. I'm also planning on attempting to do two figures for the open turret hatches. I've never in more then 40 years attempted to do one, so it's new ground for me.
Joel

Good luck with the figures. Keep it simple, and if I may suggest something.... just use shadows for the eyes rather than trying to paint eyeballs. It seems that's almost a surefire way to get the dreaded racoon look.

Willing to try the simplest way to get them painted. Fortunately, I have plenty of time to do some google searches, and get a idea of how to proceed. Fortunately, so little of the figures will be visible, that I can cheat a little and not have to do much from the waist down.
Joel

Here's some good starts...

http://www.missing-lynx.com/articles/figures/mbface/mbface.htm

http://www.missing-lynx.com/articles/figures/mbpart2/mbpart2.htm