Nice progress Mike.
I like you way of arranging the engine cover. Makes a lot more sense than the recyceled Panther/Tiger engine decks.
Although I´d change the door against something more fitting. A door with rounded edges as you can find it on ships maybe? Yours does look a bit like a door to a closet to me

Well, he does have 1/8th inch of styrene attached to his feet.... And of course, there are recessed steps there. They look great if I don't say so myself.



Ahh...I'm seeing this. Yes, agreed - ship's hatch. Will be done.

Mike

Fabian, this one:



That I can do.

Mike

That´s what I ment... I wasn´t too shure about the english expression for that

I think Fabian's suggestion is absoltely right, although in the case of doors on ships the bottom of the door is very high to prevent water from running through. In this case the top of the door will have to be low because of the thickness of the armor of the overhead. Nevertheless, it seems like no problem if the door is shorter than a man--lots of precedence for that. Just my $0.02...

I cut out the new door. Very much like the one in the picture I posted. It'll be closed and I still need to do the hinges and "dogs" for it. The door is about 62 inches top to bottom. They'll be ducking for sure. Same width as in my pic, just shorter.

I'm working on the design of the air intakes. I can go all out or I can go easy. I do need to make the slats/louvers regardless. However, I wonder if I ought to put some fans behind them? One set of 1/144th B-29 Superfortress props (4) per side would do it very nice. I'd double them up to make them 8-bladed instead of 4 blades. Louvers, mesh, B-29 props. Dunno...just not sure you'd be able to see them and the $12 could be spent elsewhere(?).

Mike

I'm still wondering where are your going to put the pool. Bar, deck chairs, and tennis court, ok plenty of room, but where's the pool. All that back deck, the officers need a pool.

What for, ice skating?

Not sure about a pool or tennis, but I am thinking I'll put in the landing pad for the 282 or 265 helicopter. Just need to find out the measurements.

And I still may put the search light in too.

Mike

Mike, I'm enjoying the work and I have to commend you on your dedication to this project. The monster is really coming along.

For a rear landing deck you could use steel grating (PE mesh) and/or plywood set on a raised platform to be about even with the sides with the turrets. The intakes would be unobstructed and accessible, while offering a lightweight landing deck. You could probably stick a fuel storage tank for the helo beneath the deck for refueling.

Regarding the Flettner 265.

Dimensions based on 1/35th scale:
Height - 8 cm
Length - 18 cm
Rotor span - 34 cm

Regarding the "landing deck." I had hoped to have just painted the landing circle(s) and installed the tether rope. Alas, the top of the MAUS turrets are just over 8 cm from the engine deck; so I would need a separate deck for the helicopter.

I gave it some thought and came up with two ideas:

1) a deck that would lift on hydraulics. Hydraulics at each corner and at the center. It would only need to be raised when they were going to launch the bird and only by about 3 feet max. (I assume the blades can be folded) The deck would need plates that could be folded open to allow access to the engine panels. These wouldn't need to be armored but could act as additional anti-shrapnel protection.

2) a secondary stationary deck that would be even with the tops of the track housing. This would be only the necessary length and width to support the bird on it. It too would need sections that could be folded open to allow access to the engine panels and could also act as additional anti-shrapnel protection.

I'd prefer to use a material that is perforated so you can see under it (a mesh). Window screen may work. Though that may negate the "additional anti-shrapnel protection."

Ah, just one more thing to screw around with.

Mike

In regards to having a perforated secondary deck, have you considered Marsden Matting, aka PSP (pierced steel plating)?

You might look at the pc boards at radio shack. The ones with the holes that you build your own boards.

PSP and circuit boards? Hadn't thought about those. Hmmm...the top portion of the circuit "bread boards" could work.

Here's a basic design I did:



The landing pad would be roughly 140mm x 144mm. Still leaves walk room between it and the track housings (and room for a fuel tank [or secured fuel drum] for the helicopter).

Mike


p.s. I'll probably update this picture so it includes the engine covers, stairs, exhaust, and a portion of the track housings.

Updated concept:



(the Panther heaters are probably out of scale and may be the wrong thing all together...but you get the idea)

Mike

Nothing exciting. I have to refrain from getting too far ahead of myself. So, I'm building the second Kugelblitz turret mount and working on the forward hatch and intake area.

The turret mount is drying - then it'll get sanded down, puttied, resanded, and primed like the other.

I've removed the center hatch section (it now has hinges, a handle, and a grab bar at the top). Basically, that wall will be three sections - two intake sections and the hatch section. This'll be easier to build and allow me to much better install the louvers.

Pics once the intakes are done and the sections are reassembled.

Mike

I had a sheet of .005 brass to make the louvers from. I'll be danged if I just can seem to get them the same width (even using a flippin' square).

Solution: Ordered some 3/16" sheet strips. That'll fix ya!!

Kugel turret mount is done. Until I get the brass strip, I'll move along.

Began the rear exhaust. Pretty much all I need to do on that is clean up and again the louvers. For these I'm thinking styrene (a bit thicker and more "armored").





Mike

I'm using Alumilite Mold Putty to mold the Tiger kugelblende's and the fuel caps. Once you figure out how to defeat the air bubble issue, this stuff is pretty dang nice for small things.

Not sure if I'll use resin (bought already) or two-part epoxy to cast them with.



Framers are here framing in my basement bathroom, so I probably won't get much else done on this.

Mike

Hello Mike,

Sounds like the beast is moving along nicely.
Why not do a test pour with both the resin and the two-part epoxy and see which one looks the best?

Just a thinkin', ouch that hurt.

See ya in the funnies..................

Been working on the laundry room and basement bathroom. Needless to say, my shop is now full of stuff that was in those rooms or being used for those rooms:



Hope to make space so I can at least work on some of the small things for the Beastie.

Mike

I was wondering, would this beast have been armored against others like it? Or just enough to hold together while moving and shooting? (I keep thinking that it needs a picture of a rabbit on the side...)

Hi Mike,

This is great ! You've a nice place !

Be sure to have the entrance door big enough to let the beast go out when completed

Wow! I only see this build tread now. This is an absolutely awesome undertaking.

I will follow with great interest. Keep up the great work!

My assumption is that it would have been armored against multiple strikes by whatever the Russians, British, or Americans had at the time. Pretty sure no one else considered something of this magnitude.



Got that covered! It'll be tight going around the corner, but it'll fit. My concern is it's weight!

Thank you Jesper, and welcome aboard. Watch that first step; it's a doozie!!

Mike

Mike

Don't know if you've seen it yet, but Takom have just announced a 1:144 Ratte. Isn't it always the way?

Regards

Rob