The model went together very well and I was impressed with my first Dragon kit. The instructions were a little unclear in areas (LOTS of optional steps). This kit is an amalgam of many and has lots of extra parts. The instructions do clearly show which parts are not used (in the parts list), but in the heat of battle I am always wondering if I have missed something? As usual, the parts that end up flying into the abyss are one-offs. Having said all that- I will definitely look at Dragon again once my stack is diminished.
Things worth noting during construction.
Lower Glacis Front by
Lead Farmer, on Flickr
Weird lower front glacis photoetch?
Hull Torsion Bars by
Lead Farmer, on Flickr
Torsion bar construction somewhat convoluted, but I enjoy the moving suspension and prefer this over a recent Trumpeter build (IS7).
Rear Glacis Aluminum by
Lead Farmer, on Flickr
Rear stowage boxes had to be mutilated to fit the in game tank. I used my patented aluminum tape method.
Gun Brace Delete by
Lead Farmer, on Flickr
Front cannon support had to be removed. I discovered this too late and had to work around the drivers and gunners view blocks

. The bow machine gun here was replaced with brass initially (more on that later).
Rear Deck Before Primer by
Lead Farmer, on Flickr
Great detail on the rear deck with the (very thin) photoetch.
Spare Track Too Many Pins by
Lead Farmer, on Flickr
All 6 spare track pins inserted- later on (after gluing, of course), I noticed that there are only 3 per side. Out came the file and drill

. I tried to bang up the fenders a little bit, but was not very successful.
Vision Blocks Pre Paint by
Lead Farmer, on Flickr
Although the vision blocks look like crap here, once assembled they came out very nice. This is another patented process made with reflective green cardboard/heavy paper from a dollar store gift bag. Not sure if the in game tank has green vision blocks or not, but I use them all the time cause they look cool.
Brass Handle by
Lead Farmer, on Flickr
A grab handle was eaten by my workbench. I mostly replace all my grab handles with brass, but the Dragon ones are actually very useable provided you are careful to not let them go flying into oblivion.
Upper Gun Shield by
Lead Farmer, on Flickr
Photoetch upper gun shield- fit is so-so and the gaps were made up with 12 minute epoxy. A few small gaps here and there- but fit is very good with this kit. FYI- you can see my paint masks on the vision blocks here, as well.
LOOONNNGGG 75mm by
Lead Farmer, on Flickr
The gun is v-e-r-y long. I find it to be the best gun on the Panther. Although you won't get any one-shot kills, it penetrates almost anything and has laser accuracy. I still remember the first time I saw it in the game. What the heck! is that? Looks like a pole-vaulter on approach to the bar...
Schmalturn Pre Prime by
Lead Farmer, on Flickr
Primer ready.
Post Prime by
Lead Farmer, on Flickr
Looks good, but a tad dark. Normally, I prime with black or darken a grey up to almost black. This is lighter than that, but not enough for final chipping. Three pins in the spare track link hangers as per the game. The tow cable attachment point had to be slightly modified to bring it inline with the game depicted version.
I base coated the model with a homebrew of auto primer (Plasticote) mixed with a metallic from Home Despot (Rustoleum Flat Iron). It turned out a little dark. Whadda ya gonna do?