I have been asking lots of questions and thinking about a Type 2KaMi IJN amphibious tank that made it to shore only to get turned around and used as a shore battery.

Many years, later, an archeaological dig finds the KaMi buried in a sand dune on the beach. A team has been sent to dig out the rare Type 2 tank for salvage.

A rough concept drawing...

Kits and supplies to be used...

Mock up of scene... balls on side will turn into dunes with palm trees. Tank will have one pontoon fallen off and rusted through the side walls. Sandbags will surround the position... a second dune will surround the starboard side of the tank...

First an inventory and a coat of primer...

And an example of the rust effect I will be working toward... I have never done anything like heavy weathering but I try a new challenge with every build.




Your comments are always welcome and encouraged!

Thanks for following!

Your idea for this scene sounds cool. I'd like to see how the rusting technique works out. I'll keep watching this cause I'm partial to PTO dios (wish there were more). Since the KaMi will be partially exposed, will you have any figures at the dig site?

Going to be following this one. Really want to see where you can take it!

Jack, that occurred to me today... I haven't decided... hmm... I've not much experience with figures...

One track will also be off... at least partially... maybe trailing out behind the tank... as if that was the reason it never moved again...

I feel your pain with figures, so I try to keep them at the minimum needed to convey the scene's story. Maybe if you had just two "civilian-looking" guys standing back a bit and taking in what they've found? If you're feeling bold, have one of them taking photos.

Good idea!

Some progress today on the scene... need to pass a work-related test Tuesday then it will be on... tank is begging for some construction...






Thanks for looking... all comments are always welcome...

A little more color... need to walk away for a bit...

I thought I could edit out the x... sorry about that...
First the images and then questions....




Now the questions... this is acrylic paint over drywall compound over foam. I am not sure that the drywall compound covered the foam 100%. Do I need to seal the acrylic paint with something like Liquitex acrylic gel?

Also, I know I need to build a dam around the edge of the diorama until the water (resin/RS whatever) sets. I was planning on using cardboard. Should I cover the cardboard in plastic wrap that has been sprayed with something like cooking oil to prevent the resin from sticking to the cardboard?

Patrick,
I used to build a lot of model railroad scenery many years ago-- you are on the "right track" with the idea for your dam material, although I'd use cardboard covered with wax paper sprayed with a little cooking oil like Pam or Bakers Joy. Use an appropriately sized bungee strap or large rubber band to tightly secure it to the base. To insure that no resin "wicks" down along the edges of the cardboard and base, work plaster along the edge, then paint to suit (you can even use paint to mix into the plaster. I prefer Durham's water putty as my plaster base. I've used acrylic resin many times over painted foam surfaces or drywall compound (plaster) without any trouble-- but it depends on what you use-- There are non-acrylic resins which use fairly "hot" chemicals which could attack the foam. I've found Enviro-Tex brand to be the best, it shouldn't have any effect on the foam or drywall compound. When you get to making "waves" try using crystal clear silicon sealant over the hardened resin to make the crests-- you can also stain this and the Enviro-tex resin to get the right color. One other note-- don't try to pour more than 1/4 inch of Resin as a time-- it won't dry properly, pour about that much in several pours if you need too, and let each pour dry thoroughly before the next (usually 3-4 days) VR, Russ

Thanks Russ!

Does the paint need to be sealed? I have liquitex acrylic gel... By the way, how is the color? Too light or just right?

I was thinking of using the two part resin... Can it be colored with acrylics? Should I start with a darker blue working to light blue to barely blue?

I assume you are talking about the same gel is used for waves. Is that correct?

Thanks in advance!

Patrick,
I think the paint looks OK-- an old model railroad trick is to start with a lighter shade at the shoreline and feather it into a darker shade as the water gets deeper. I think for a Pacific Island setting, blue will work well, with a really deep blue as the water goes off the edge of the diorama. You could also use green depending on the effect you want. As for the resin, Enviro-Tex is a two part resin that's best colored with food coloring-- I wouldn't mix acrylic paint with it, but experiment first with it in a paper cup. The idea is to have some transparency. You can attempt to create waves in it by teasing it up as it's drying, but since it self levels, that's rather difficult-- instead, I've used clear, fast drying (1/2 to 1 hour) silicon (I suppose latex would work too) sealer (bathroom/kitchen caulk)in the tube from a hardware store. just apply it in "ripples" right on top of the cured resin, and tease it into shape for the waves-- I've also seen folks embed clear saran wrap in it for larger wave tops, or around objects like rocks. when dry, it can be painted. When wet it can be tinted with food coloring. You can get Enviro-Tex at most craft stores. VR, Russ

I forgot to answer your first question-- the paint really does not need to be sealed to apply two part Enviro-Tex. VR, Russ

I really, really like the concept for this diorama. I wish there were even more examples of the "post war remains" idea as it is a theme with unlimited possibilities for unique and amazing builds. Your work is great and I'm eager to see the final results someday.

Great work!
Jim
LSA

The base is coming along very nicely. I really like the ideal for this. Can't wait to see it finished.

Rob

The base is looking great. This one looks like it will come out really nice. One question though, if this is a derelict hulk that has been there for years, why the track marks in the sand? They would have been washed away years ago.

Gino, they are a reference point for the track that will be broken and lying in the sand... that is why the starboard side track marks are pretty obscure (notice the use of nautical terms because this is an amphibious tank ...)

But you have good point... the track will be rusted and used as a reason for why the tank was never moved again...

Twisted, eh?

Pour #2... am looking for some scale starfish and the like but may have to make them. Waiting three days can be, well... stressful...

Also, you can see the beginnings of palm trees... two that are good to go further and three that are way too short... so now that I know what I'm doing... do you all have comments about tree placement?






Your comments are always welcome!

I like the trees on the dune. Not so sure about the loner opposite, although you do need something there to fill the dead space that would otherwise be left. Maybe a crushed/rusted fuel drum or some other type of debris. Perhaps some drift wood and tangled seaweed. Maybe a crab. Just a thought. Shaping up nicely so far. Good luck.

Good ideas!

Maybe some debris around the lone tree that would have caught the tree seeds... I like all the ideas... There will be a specimen table and a sifter frame... And maybe some figures...

Great feedback!

Patrick-- this is really looking good. Can't wait to see the finished product, even if it will take a long time for the Enviro-tex to cure. You mentioned you weren't sure fish would come in that close to shore. I had the opportunity to spend time on Guadalcanal and the Russell Island group, and was stationed for four years in Hawaii. I traveled extensively to Johnston Atoll, the Marshalls, Japan and Okinawa, and once spent a day wading on Wake Island while waiting for a C-141 to be repaired. I can assure you the fish (small ones anyway, you don't want to be in the water when the big ones show up !) come right up to the shallows in calmer water. Many are very curious, and will often nibble your toes on occasion. It has a lot to due with the lack of "civilization" nearby. The Russell's are famous for huge blue/red fiddler crabs, which can congregate in groups of a hundred or more in mangrove swamps or coconut groves and often cover the roads close to shore (they're rather evil looking with one huge claw and are quite large), and of course, large salt water crocodiles (12 ft is not unheard of). I spent several weeks on Guadalcanal and Mbanika Island surveying left over WWII munitions for recovery, and a lot of that time was spent in or near the water. Your palm trees look like the real thing so far, and brought back many pleasant (and some not so pleasant memories). VR, Russ

Awesome idea - I will be staying tuned to see how this works out.

On using the Tamiya sandbags, I'm not too convinced that you (or anyone) for that matter will be able to get a convincing effect for your final product. They tend to look like, well, plastic sandbags since they do not drape convincingly. It's not too difficult to make them out of milliput for a much more accurate appearance. Check out this article for instance.

Secondly, you mentioned that you hadn't much experience doing knocked out or derelict vehicles. I've done a couple over the past couple years and have found Rob Ferreira's techniques really helpful. Check out this build log of his from a few years ago for some tips and tricks. Essentially, a solid method is to prime in dark brown, apply some rusty red and brown oil paints on top of that, then rust pigments on top, before using the hairspray technique to do chipping of the top coat.

Best of luck with this project!