I think I've sorted my front end problem and am ready for primer:


Still looks a little funny without the tracks on, but at least that front wheel is on the ground.

Unlike this guy! Lol!

Nice fix!🍺

—mike

Great pic!

The awesome thing about the Kettenkrad is that it was designed to take on a 24 deg incline and could still be steered with the front wheel off the ground. In fact, for really rough terrain I understand the preferred method was to take the front wheel off completely so it didn't get in the way.

Looking good, Mark, good fix!

Mike-Hilarious!

Mike, the figures are in the figures forum listed IDF halftrack crew they are really going to be great can't wait.

Ken, Now I recall the A C Models WIP; it does look like a really cool figure set!

—mike

Say hullo too my leetle friend!!! 💥




Dees nuts 🔩 are MENG Resin 'Nuts and Bolts Set A Small' (SPS-005, 1.0mm), 'Nuts and Bolts Set B Large' (SPS-006, 1.8mm).

Cheers!🍺
—mike

Bangin', Mike!

Hi Mike , I just laughed my a%# off...... my kind of humor

Teehee! 😇

Here’s today’s effort.

Shower curtain rods — got lucky with bending these!
K&S (No. 8159) 0.51mm Brass Rod.



Boring? ... too many pics? 🤔

—mike

Looking good Mike!

Mike, never too many pics, looking good, I always admire good PE and scratch work...

Looking fine Mike. No never too many pics.

Nice fix on the K Rad Mark. That is what Dragon kits are all about - reminding us of the 'good old days' where scratch building and test and fit and adjust, test and fit and adjust, was our motto! Had to do this for the 250/9 as you will see.

Okay, tedious work on road wheels and track done and turret started.

Just a few tips for anyone attempting one of these in the future....
1) completely build the front axle assembly and do the 2 runs of tracks (or sufficient to rest the road wheels on)before adding any of the torsion arms for the rear wheels.
2) Build all road wheels and cement halves together before adding the torsion arms.
3) Test fix front wheels before adding torsion arms(blue tack is good as the fit is terrible and the wheels will fall off without it)
.. do you see where I am going with this?
4) clean up all torsion arms ready for assembly.
5) put the idler mount away some where safe. DO NOT FIT IT
5) Quickly fit all torsion bars, then fit the road wheels. Once done, immediately locate the road wheels on the two track runs and adjust torsion bar heights so all road wheels as sitting flat on the track and camber of the wheels are all in line. Support rear of vehicle will help. and leave for torsion arms to set.....

Failure to do the above, or fitting all torsion arms perfectly level with hull bottom will likely result in the front road wheels and track section being airborne when the front wheels are attached.

Do not glue the rear idler mount until you have test fit the completed track sections around the idler, Drive sprocket and road wheels AND ESPECIALLY do not mount it vertical as Dragon shows you in the instructions or your track section will be too short to fit..... and no, adding another track link will not fix it, as then the run is too long and you have gaps around the idler and/or sprocket.

TEST fit always!!!

Enough talk, some pics

The Turret

Used Griffin Barrel and brass Mag Clip receiver
Added the missing ribbing to stowage bin sides. Had an issue here with the bin lids. I first added the etch ones that come in the kit, but they are too big. I think Dragon intend for the top to fit over the lip of the rear of the turret, but that is incorrect as the bins sit too high. So I sanded off the bottom of the plastic one and sanded the edge of the lid where it meets the turret(won't fit otherwise)
I now have to add some etch clips to the sides (will be fun doing the two centre ones - not much room there.

Also filled the notches on the turret top. Dragon has cut outs for the tab on the etch grenade screens. Why Dragon?? just add the etch hinges to your kit to fit to the turret wall and screens.... not hard.

The inside.


Soldered, then added the two etch racks. Each piece is made up of multiple straight strip to joined together, so solder is the only choice or scratch build from styrene. Cyano ain't gonna do it here. One rack will hold 2 20cm round cases. The other has nothing. At first I thought these would hold 2 cases for the MG rounds, but the rack is too small. No idea what it is for otherwise (maybe 2 x Drum magazine racks - they were fitted direct to the hull wall on other 250's... hmmm?)

You will also note I had to remove the spare MG barrel case from the box on the rear. It fouls the seats of the turret where it is. I also filled the 2 holes. Decided not to put stuff on the floor

and off course the suspension in place. Don't worry about the airborne tracks, there is enough slack that I can press them down on top of the road wheels later.

The mystery Etch rack


Test and Fit and Adjust



As I noted previously, the fit of the upper hull is abysmal. I have had to remove plastic from the hull sides and the upper hull part to get the front engine compartment section to sit flat. However, even so, when that sits perfect, the rear upper hull sits up at the end.


I will need to trim out plastic along the section where the engine compartment meets the rear compartment, to thin it so I can bend it down. This will mean removing the radio and dash section but that can't be seen with the turret in place anyway.

Test and fit and adjust. Test and Fit and adjust. Test and Fit... the garbage bin looks tempting... and adjust... test and Fit and ... three points if I can toss this kit in there from this distance.... and adjust...

Oh and yes a Boo Boo. Dragon's box art and their painting guides show the curved front tarpaulin mount removed for the 250/9. The instructions do not mention it, but show the curved cut out for the part in their upper hull diagram. Makes sense in theory, the cover would not be used but when you look at pics of the actual vehicle it is still there. Dumbo here filled the location run before checking.


Also, interestingly, dragon's painting guide shows the turret much longer than it is, so the turret front meets the front of the upper hull in the diagram... they cut the image from the 234/1 diagram and pasted it over the stock 250 image without rescaling!!!

Thanks guys! I appreciate the comments! Looking forward to more of your works as well. 👷

I originally intended the M21 for a quick OOB build, but with my stockpile so close at hand, it’s hard to resist butchering-up some ‘Evergreen!’ 🔪 … On the other hand, brass “bling” is a love/hate thing with me! 🌟😖 Lol!



Peter, I hear you, buddy. I seem to recall a similar wheel issue with the DML Sd.Kfz.10 Ausf.B I built a while back. It’s always satisfying to see all four wheels … or in this case, wheels and tracks touching the ground.

I love the smell of Blu-Tak in the morning! 🔵 Lol!

Cheers!
—mike🍺

Hang in there, Peter, you're looking good!

Speaking of fixes. ... I found a minor error in attaching the M21’s rear racks. After checking several reference photos, I noticed that they should be mounted to the outermost edge of the extended corner mounting plates. However, DML came up a little short on the inboard plates.

I came up with the following solution: ‘Evergreen’ No. 106 Strips (0.25mm x 3.2mm) added to the rear body panel. Note: In the first image, I had cut the strips to identical widths. After gluing them in place, the right-hand strip required a little "Ginsu" action to correct the fit! 🔪


Side and rear racks have been installed. Note: I double-checked the mines which are, indeed a very snug fit. However, with loving care, they can still be squeaked down under the upper racks and into their respective stowage racks.


Later!
—mike🍺

Nice, work, Mike and Peter! It's amazing the way in which DML can put out some really superb kits, and at the same time produce some real dogs!

G'day, Mates! No, I'm not really an Aussie — just been talking to one lately! 🇦🇺

So anyway, here's today's M21 update. ... Fuel Cans, rack 'em, 'n strap 'em.

Step 1. Scrape, pick, sand, wipe-off original strap/buckle detail using every tool known to man! I used Evergreen No. 9009 Styrene Sheet (0.13mm thick) for the rack. PE is from ABER (35 A113) Soviet WWII Infantry Accessories.



Step 2. Attach Styrene along the bottom edge — easy does it with the glue.


Step 3. Cut along original detail line — “after” the glue dries, that is! My first attempt didn’t come out as well as this one!
Note: I only scraped-off the strap/buckle and left the rack’s detail for a bit of extra relief.


Step 4. Thread the needle (super-tiny buckle!).😜 … Bend PE strap and attach to fingers with CA!😝



Step 5. Sheaf Stout!🍺

—mike

Nice job on those jerry cans!

You must have some really steady hands there, Mike!

Thank you, Mark and Clayton!



Clayton, Did you mean:
really sticky hands?

So, now that the fuel cans are out of the way, the lack of detail on the cab exterior was driving me crazy! 😝

Door handle and fuel can rack cut-out w/inside patch. ✅

The other thing on the door is a holder for the flapped down armor window pin. I'll take care of that later.

Cheers!🍺
—mike

Nice work on the JC holders Mike. The added details make a big difference too.

Not much from me this week. so far. All I have done is remove the strip of plastic from under the upper hull and engine compartment so I could bend the hull down.

The tail in the air if left as is


The strip removed


The fit now


Hope to get more done over this weekend

Pete, Aaaah yes! … The 250 is resting nicely!🍺

—mike