Hi Mike, when I returned to the hobby last year I told myself to keep it simple. Way back when I built the flying things I tried to get the the "correct" paint, you name the brand I had it, seemed like all I did was chase my tail. NOT THISTIME!!!
Now the only paint I use is Tamiya and I love it, found some nice mixing charts right here in Armorama. I don't prime. I'm old school, wash and dry. And spray several light coats
I use Andrea paints for my "dudes " it covers great and is dead flat. Started using a wet palette, check you-tube out, it really keeps the paint from drying out.
By the way real nice detail work on your track
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69mudbone
California, United States
Joined: April 26, 2016
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Posted: Thursday, February 23, 2017 - 10:06 PM UTC
petbat
Queensland, Australia
Joined: August 06, 2005
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Posted: Friday, February 24, 2017 - 01:08 AM UTC
Looking good Ken.
Old school huh. I remember when the only paint you could buy was Humbrol, and the only way to apply it was with a brush....
... and glue only came in tubes, with 'strings attached', that exploded as soon as you pierced the tip
.... and the rubber tracks had to be stapled together (and they were rubber!!)
... and adding detail meant scrounging for household items and disused containers for materials
and adding mud to a vehicle was thought to be just covering up a bad build
... oh all that effort to type was tiring, I need to go for my first nap of the day now.
Seriously though, I do prime my model when there is significant brass. I find some paints, particularly Tamiya Flat Black doesn't stick too well to brass and even a little brushing for detail work can lift it off raised areas or edges. Tamiya's brand primer in the rattle can is good, but I decant into a jar then airbrush to control the application for complex areas like interiors and around raised components, etc.
What thinner do you use? I use Tamiya's Lacquer Thinner after some of the guys in my club told me to try it instead of the Tamiya acrylic thinner. It seems to give a smoother finish than the acrylic.
Part for the airbrush ordered and should be here Thursday or Friday next week... just before I head off overseas for a couple of weeks.
Old school huh. I remember when the only paint you could buy was Humbrol, and the only way to apply it was with a brush....
... and glue only came in tubes, with 'strings attached', that exploded as soon as you pierced the tip
.... and the rubber tracks had to be stapled together (and they were rubber!!)
... and adding detail meant scrounging for household items and disused containers for materials
and adding mud to a vehicle was thought to be just covering up a bad build
... oh all that effort to type was tiring, I need to go for my first nap of the day now.
Seriously though, I do prime my model when there is significant brass. I find some paints, particularly Tamiya Flat Black doesn't stick too well to brass and even a little brushing for detail work can lift it off raised areas or edges. Tamiya's brand primer in the rattle can is good, but I decant into a jar then airbrush to control the application for complex areas like interiors and around raised components, etc.
What thinner do you use? I use Tamiya's Lacquer Thinner after some of the guys in my club told me to try it instead of the Tamiya acrylic thinner. It seems to give a smoother finish than the acrylic.
Part for the airbrush ordered and should be here Thursday or Friday next week... just before I head off overseas for a couple of weeks.
69mudbone
California, United States
Joined: April 26, 2016
KitMaker: 362 posts
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Joined: April 26, 2016
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Posted: Saturday, February 25, 2017 - 02:17 AM UTC
Peter I use Tamiya A-20x, it seems to work. I haven't tried any brass yet though I have my eye on a Lav25 with some inexpensive brass. Do use one of those clamp and fold gizmos? They do seem cost $$$$
Posted: Saturday, February 25, 2017 - 02:42 AM UTC
I'm pretty much "old-school" too...but have had to learn the tricks of the trade- I use Vallejo Air paints for the airbrush (just starting to learn the beast)...and I have learned that priming really helps, esp. with PE and a must with resin- I use Valspar Project Perfect (from Lowes) in a rattle can, works great, and very cheap ( $4.00 for a 12-oz can should last me my lifetime)...
69mudbone
California, United States
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Posted: Saturday, February 25, 2017 - 05:41 AM UTC
Learning how to use the trigger on this dual action will be the death of me . I used a single action for so looong This is fun right
Posted: Saturday, February 25, 2017 - 06:11 AM UTC
Don't feel like the Lone Ranger!
ltb073
New York, United States
Joined: March 08, 2010
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Posted: Sunday, February 26, 2017 - 01:22 AM UTC
Posted: Sunday, February 26, 2017 - 02:40 AM UTC
Looks good, welcome aboard, Sal!
69mudbone
California, United States
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Posted: Sunday, February 26, 2017 - 06:08 AM UTC
Hi Guys, WIP update my first attempt at the b/w technique. Still trying to get used of this dual action brush. Will let it sit overnight and do base coat.
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Armorsmith
Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: April 09, 2015
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Posted: Sunday, February 26, 2017 - 07:06 AM UTC
Looks good Ken. Anxious to see the OD on it.
justsendit
Colorado, United States
Joined: February 24, 2014
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Posted: Sunday, February 26, 2017 - 10:37 AM UTC
@ Sd.Kfz.sevens – Those are some of my favorite tracks — can't wait to see them rolling onto the werkbenches!
@ Ken – That's already looking killer!
—mike
@ Ken – That's already looking killer!
—mike
69mudbone
California, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, March 01, 2017 - 11:23 PM UTC
Hi Guys, put some OD green on, any tips suggestions would be appreciated I think I will maybe try a green/ blue filter?
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Armorsmith
Pennsylvania, United States
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Posted: Thursday, March 02, 2017 - 01:30 AM UTC
Turned out quite nicely.
petbat
Queensland, Australia
Joined: August 06, 2005
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Posted: Thursday, March 02, 2017 - 01:43 AM UTC
Welcome aboard Sal. Nice choice.
Ken, seem to have got the hang of the Dual Action airbrush easily! Looks great.
Yes I have 2 Hold N Fold devices for etch work. I find I use the 'Bug' more than the 5" one, it is a handy palm sized tool that can handle most needs up to reasonable size tool boxes, etc, and it is not that expensive. The 5" I use for large pieces like fenders and the like. It really does pay to use one instead of pliers or tweezers as it holds the part and ensures straight folds, etc. It is an investment just like an airbrush or compressor, and with a lot of kits being multi-media now, you are likely to get your money's worth out of one.
Filters will help break down the uniform colours over the whole vehicle if you layer them. Try not to paint the whole vehicle with uniform filters. Add more layers is different places to add more depth variation. There a lots of articles on filters that probably explain this better than I can.
Dust streaks and where grime has been washed down vertical surfaces to pond in crevices on horizontal will also add some appeal. There is an art to it all, one which I am still learning.
Still waiting for my airbrush part but off on 3 weeks OS leave tomorrow, so I won't be able to post anything for a while. Happy building guys. Catch up when I get home.
Ken, seem to have got the hang of the Dual Action airbrush easily! Looks great.
Yes I have 2 Hold N Fold devices for etch work. I find I use the 'Bug' more than the 5" one, it is a handy palm sized tool that can handle most needs up to reasonable size tool boxes, etc, and it is not that expensive. The 5" I use for large pieces like fenders and the like. It really does pay to use one instead of pliers or tweezers as it holds the part and ensures straight folds, etc. It is an investment just like an airbrush or compressor, and with a lot of kits being multi-media now, you are likely to get your money's worth out of one.
Filters will help break down the uniform colours over the whole vehicle if you layer them. Try not to paint the whole vehicle with uniform filters. Add more layers is different places to add more depth variation. There a lots of articles on filters that probably explain this better than I can.
Dust streaks and where grime has been washed down vertical surfaces to pond in crevices on horizontal will also add some appeal. There is an art to it all, one which I am still learning.
Still waiting for my airbrush part but off on 3 weeks OS leave tomorrow, so I won't be able to post anything for a while. Happy building guys. Catch up when I get home.
justjohn
United States
Joined: October 09, 2011
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Posted: Thursday, March 02, 2017 - 04:05 AM UTC
Ken, it looks great. Did you have any fit problems with that kit?
69mudbone
California, United States
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Posted: Thursday, March 02, 2017 - 04:51 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Ken, it looks great. Did you have any fit problems with that kit?
Hi John, it's the old Tamiya kit I have had for over twenty years. So it fell together real nice using these old kits to practice on before shelling out big bucks for the newer ones.
Removed by original poster on 03/05/17 - 22:21:33 (GMT).
Hard_Target
Virginia, United States
Joined: January 30, 2017
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Posted: Sunday, March 05, 2017 - 07:29 AM UTC
Thirian24
Oklahoma, United States
Joined: September 30, 2015
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Posted: Sunday, March 05, 2017 - 07:57 AM UTC
Boy oh boy. I'm gonna be cutting it extremly close if I do not get started on my build soon.
RivetCounter
Warszawa, Poland
Joined: October 26, 2012
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Posted: Sunday, March 05, 2017 - 12:18 PM UTC
Posted: Sunday, March 05, 2017 - 08:37 PM UTC
Timothy and Marek, welcome aboard! Dustin, we have until the end of June, even my halftrack is 3 kits away!
69mudbone
California, United States
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Posted: Monday, March 06, 2017 - 10:40 PM UTC
Hi Guys, WIP update applied a green/ blue filter. Now for the gloss coat. I hope these 20 year old decals will work
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Armorsmith
Pennsylvania, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, March 07, 2017 - 12:06 AM UTC
Ken- About those 20 year old decals. If they are yellowed try putting them in a window facing the sun for a couple of days to bleach out the yellow. If you are worried about the cracking and falling apart you can spray them with clear gloss and that should hold them together. If you do that you will have to cut/trim each decal individually since after the gloss coat they will all be one big decal. Good luck.
Posted: Friday, March 10, 2017 - 08:44 AM UTC
Posted: Friday, March 10, 2017 - 08:02 PM UTC
I have this in my stash too, Comrade, look forward to your build!