SUCESS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
ready for paint
here is my first attempt at a diorama I used MiniArt did not know it was vac-form till it came in the mail
Hosted by Richard S.
TAKOM - Campaign
bulldawg380
Georgia, United States
Joined: August 19, 2009
KitMaker: 347 posts
Armorama: 338 posts
Joined: August 19, 2009
KitMaker: 347 posts
Armorama: 338 posts
Posted: Friday, August 25, 2017 - 10:01 PM UTC
petbat
Queensland, Australia
Joined: August 06, 2005
KitMaker: 3,353 posts
Armorama: 3,121 posts
Joined: August 06, 2005
KitMaker: 3,353 posts
Armorama: 3,121 posts
Posted: Saturday, August 26, 2017 - 01:11 AM UTC
Perseverance has it rewards
Looks great Ronnie.
Nice crisp build. Yes the Vac formed dio's from Miniart get a lot of people first time round.
Looks great Ronnie.
Nice crisp build. Yes the Vac formed dio's from Miniart get a lot of people first time round.
JSSVIII
Massachusetts, United States
Joined: March 28, 2007
KitMaker: 1,169 posts
Armorama: 1,067 posts
Joined: March 28, 2007
KitMaker: 1,169 posts
Armorama: 1,067 posts
Posted: Saturday, August 26, 2017 - 03:39 AM UTC
Nice work Ronnie, glad to see you got the photos posted!
scaccianoce
Roma, Italy
Joined: January 02, 2006
KitMaker: 18 posts
Armorama: 16 posts
Joined: January 02, 2006
KitMaker: 18 posts
Armorama: 16 posts
Posted: Saturday, August 26, 2017 - 04:48 AM UTC
Great work, I like this dio
Kanguroo
Vietnam
Joined: May 07, 2006
KitMaker: 416 posts
Armorama: 312 posts
Joined: May 07, 2006
KitMaker: 416 posts
Armorama: 312 posts
Posted: Saturday, August 26, 2017 - 08:34 PM UTC
Good idea with dio, Ronnie.
bulldawg380
Georgia, United States
Joined: August 19, 2009
KitMaker: 347 posts
Armorama: 338 posts
Joined: August 19, 2009
KitMaker: 347 posts
Armorama: 338 posts
Posted: Sunday, August 27, 2017 - 03:23 AM UTC
bulldawg380
Georgia, United States
Joined: August 19, 2009
KitMaker: 347 posts
Armorama: 338 posts
Joined: August 19, 2009
KitMaker: 347 posts
Armorama: 338 posts
Posted: Sunday, August 27, 2017 - 03:25 AM UTC
I eally need to start proof reading my posts better.
bulldawg380
Georgia, United States
Joined: August 19, 2009
KitMaker: 347 posts
Armorama: 338 posts
Joined: August 19, 2009
KitMaker: 347 posts
Armorama: 338 posts
Posted: Sunday, August 27, 2017 - 03:26 AM UTC
REALLY...... see what I mean
JSSVIII
Massachusetts, United States
Joined: March 28, 2007
KitMaker: 1,169 posts
Armorama: 1,067 posts
Joined: March 28, 2007
KitMaker: 1,169 posts
Armorama: 1,067 posts
Posted: Sunday, August 27, 2017 - 04:11 AM UTC
Ronnie what happened? all your photos are gone.
bulldawg380
Georgia, United States
Joined: August 19, 2009
KitMaker: 347 posts
Armorama: 338 posts
Joined: August 19, 2009
KitMaker: 347 posts
Armorama: 338 posts
Posted: Sunday, August 27, 2017 - 03:01 PM UTC
Could someone tell me if my photos came back up. I deleted them from imgur not thinking about it and that is why they probably did not show on here. The photos show on my computer and I re-uploaded them to imgur. Hopefully that will solve the problem.
JSSVIII
Massachusetts, United States
Joined: March 28, 2007
KitMaker: 1,169 posts
Armorama: 1,067 posts
Joined: March 28, 2007
KitMaker: 1,169 posts
Armorama: 1,067 posts
Posted: Sunday, August 27, 2017 - 03:13 PM UTC
Nope, can't see them.
Posted: Sunday, August 27, 2017 - 04:05 PM UTC
bulldawg380
Georgia, United States
Joined: August 19, 2009
KitMaker: 347 posts
Armorama: 338 posts
Joined: August 19, 2009
KitMaker: 347 posts
Armorama: 338 posts
Posted: Tuesday, August 29, 2017 - 11:19 PM UTC
Posted: Wednesday, August 30, 2017 - 01:12 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Sadly Takom dropped the ball on this one. The wheel does not portrude a little where the rubber meets the wheel.
Yes, unfortunately...
My solution to this problem was:
I glued the "rubber" rim on the inner side of the outside wheel.
Then glued the other "rubber" rim as per TAKOM's instruction (on the outer side of the inner wheel).
Glued both wheels together.
Marked both spots on each wheel where the track touches the wheel.
Filed with a knife file bit of the "rubber" on each spot so the track guide horns can be accomodated between the outer and inner wheels.
Thus I have a protruding wheel-at least on the outside.
My omission- I forgot to sand flat the protector profile before glueing the "rubber" to the wheel...
bulldawg380
Georgia, United States
Joined: August 19, 2009
KitMaker: 347 posts
Armorama: 338 posts
Joined: August 19, 2009
KitMaker: 347 posts
Armorama: 338 posts
Posted: Wednesday, August 30, 2017 - 01:56 AM UTC
Well mine's going to have to stay as is as they are already glued together. Oh well I guess the rivet counters will love it.
bulldawg380
Georgia, United States
Joined: August 19, 2009
KitMaker: 347 posts
Armorama: 338 posts
Joined: August 19, 2009
KitMaker: 347 posts
Armorama: 338 posts
Posted: Friday, September 01, 2017 - 02:19 AM UTC
Thirian24
Oklahoma, United States
Joined: September 30, 2015
KitMaker: 2,493 posts
Armorama: 2,344 posts
Joined: September 30, 2015
KitMaker: 2,493 posts
Armorama: 2,344 posts
Posted: Friday, September 01, 2017 - 03:18 AM UTC
Very nice!
petbat
Queensland, Australia
Joined: August 06, 2005
KitMaker: 3,353 posts
Armorama: 3,121 posts
Joined: August 06, 2005
KitMaker: 3,353 posts
Armorama: 3,121 posts
Posted: Friday, September 01, 2017 - 03:50 AM UTC
Looking good Ronnie.
Suggestions for the lack of protruding lip:
1) Using a circle template cutter and thin sheet styrene, cut out a disc the diameter size of the steel wheel and the lip that should protrude, then cut from that the inner circle that represents the steel wheel diameter in the kit. That way you will have a thin circle to glue over the rubber part and the steel wheel. Kind of like what I did here:
2) Using the cutter and thick painter's masking tape, cut a hole in the tape the diameter size of the steel wheel and the lip that should protrude. Place that on the wheel, then brush on some brushable primer around the rubber tyre up to the steel part. Several light coats will build up a lip on the rim. If you apply a bit more than needed, you can then sand back to a smooth finish the right depth.
Suggestions for the lack of protruding lip:
1) Using a circle template cutter and thin sheet styrene, cut out a disc the diameter size of the steel wheel and the lip that should protrude, then cut from that the inner circle that represents the steel wheel diameter in the kit. That way you will have a thin circle to glue over the rubber part and the steel wheel. Kind of like what I did here:
2) Using the cutter and thick painter's masking tape, cut a hole in the tape the diameter size of the steel wheel and the lip that should protrude. Place that on the wheel, then brush on some brushable primer around the rubber tyre up to the steel part. Several light coats will build up a lip on the rim. If you apply a bit more than needed, you can then sand back to a smooth finish the right depth.
bulldawg380
Georgia, United States
Joined: August 19, 2009
KitMaker: 347 posts
Armorama: 338 posts
Joined: August 19, 2009
KitMaker: 347 posts
Armorama: 338 posts
Posted: Friday, September 01, 2017 - 04:08 AM UTC
Thank you very much for the advice but I think I'm just going to go ahead and finish the kit I am going to refer to rule number one and that is to have fun but maybe on another kid in the future I will definitely try that thanks for all the input
bulldawg380
Georgia, United States
Joined: August 19, 2009
KitMaker: 347 posts
Armorama: 338 posts
Joined: August 19, 2009
KitMaker: 347 posts
Armorama: 338 posts
Posted: Friday, September 01, 2017 - 06:39 AM UTC
JSSVIII
Massachusetts, United States
Joined: March 28, 2007
KitMaker: 1,169 posts
Armorama: 1,067 posts
Joined: March 28, 2007
KitMaker: 1,169 posts
Armorama: 1,067 posts
Posted: Friday, September 01, 2017 - 03:12 PM UTC
Great progress Ronnie, it's always a great feeling to get the paint on!
petbat
Queensland, Australia
Joined: August 06, 2005
KitMaker: 3,353 posts
Armorama: 3,121 posts
Joined: August 06, 2005
KitMaker: 3,353 posts
Armorama: 3,121 posts
Posted: Saturday, September 02, 2017 - 06:13 AM UTC
Very Nice Ronnie. Great airbrush control, nice soft edge with no overspray.
deerstalker36
Queensland, Australia
Joined: May 16, 2010
KitMaker: 232 posts
Armorama: 218 posts
Joined: May 16, 2010
KitMaker: 232 posts
Armorama: 218 posts
Posted: Saturday, September 02, 2017 - 04:02 PM UTC
well fixed the track issue
First undercoat is down, gonna try the Black and White technique
Hmmm, paint cracked at the back, need to refill that
on another note, what is the colour for the inside of the turret and the gun, i cant find any references
Now for the next issue, the rubber tyres. Thanks Takom for the silly sprue joints to clean up, 16*4 to clean up
First undercoat is down, gonna try the Black and White technique
Hmmm, paint cracked at the back, need to refill that
on another note, what is the colour for the inside of the turret and the gun, i cant find any references
Now for the next issue, the rubber tyres. Thanks Takom for the silly sprue joints to clean up, 16*4 to clean up
bulldawg380
Georgia, United States
Joined: August 19, 2009
KitMaker: 347 posts
Armorama: 338 posts
Joined: August 19, 2009
KitMaker: 347 posts
Armorama: 338 posts
Posted: Saturday, September 02, 2017 - 06:16 PM UTC
Looks very nice I do not know for sure but all of my research shows that most armor vehicles will have hatch undersides and exposed interior spaces painted the color of the primarary exterior color base. And usually the tooling and extra track sections too including rubber track pads. Just note the isse I found with road wheels.
bulldawg380
Georgia, United States
Joined: August 19, 2009
KitMaker: 347 posts
Armorama: 338 posts
Joined: August 19, 2009
KitMaker: 347 posts
Armorama: 338 posts
Posted: Sunday, September 03, 2017 - 10:50 PM UTC