On with Step 26. Again, I'll be splitting this across several posts.

Instructions


Parts


Bending of the PE. Just make sure you have M23 in the correct orientation before inserting it into Y27

Step 26 Continued

You need to install the assembly from Step 25 just in front of the batteries. Looking at the situation, the assembly also has to fit between A5 (installed in Step 24) and M10 (will be installed in Step 27)

Before gluing anything, I decided to do a test fit. It's a good thing that I did. As this is the first real problem area I have come across.

First, I dry fitted M10. Careful positioning it so that the PE support fits through the slot.


I then tried fitting M34 (Step25) in it's position. As you can see, it doesn't come close to fitting. This is why you don't glue the parts together back in Step 25.


The rear of M34 also should fit within the PE cross support as shown in the yellow circle. Again. It doesn't fit.


The first thing I did was cut off the support leg, yellow circle.


I then sanded off .5mm from the left side and removed material from the other locations identified by the other yellow circles.


It now fits correctly where it should.


I just glued M10 into position. No reason to risk anything trying to remove it since you install it in the next step.

Step 26 Continued

With the issue of fitting M34 resolved, we can continue with the rest of the parts in this step.

First, fit M6 into position. Be careful as it is a tight fit around the brake housing. The feet need to fit behind the PE support. Working slowly, it will "pop" into place.


Then fit part D42 into place.


You fit D1 into the location circled in blue.


I have fitted the rest of the parts from Step 25 onto M34.


Next fit the container for the spare MG34 barrels


Fit the MG/Radio Operator's seat and the fold-down seat.


Lastly, fit Y12/13/14/15 and S13 (x3)

Picture with everything installed.

Quality, quality, quality. Superb build log

Thanks Tim!

Next is a couple of sub-assemblies.

Instructions


Parts


Partly assembled


Painted-A10 assembled


A9 Assembled


No issues with these two steps.

Step 27 continues with the left side of the hull.

Instructions


Parts


I've already installed M10 back in Step 26. And, I forget to include M53. I'll install it in the next step.

The parts painted


Install M7 with the driver's seat first.


Then, install the brake assy and shock absorber


Install K8 and K9. Make sure the space between them (yellow circle) is enough to fit the fold-down seat from Step A10.

@d111298pw – Mark,

Oh my goodness! You spent an entire day having fun. Wish I could do that; just too many things to take care of here at home . . .

This would take me a while to put together as I am a slow builder (turtle with a watermelon on its back), I do have this in line to do in the near future. I do appreciate your dedication and effort on this build. So many pieces to put together and staying focused on each step is a task in itself. With so many sub-assemblies to put together and test fitting before painting I could see this one taking me a long time to finish.

The detail on the parts on this kit is something that I have not seen captured this well before by the kit manufacturers; they have really stepped up their game lately. There is always going to be issues with some of the parts but you’re doing an excellent job of coming up with solutions and pointing them out as you build and photograph your progress on this kit.

My finger is tired of scrolling up and down the pages to check out all of what you have done thus far. When you are done with this build you will have a miniature of this historic and iconic vehicle to hold in your hands. With each separate sub-assembly being a kit of its own you are moving along at a very good speed. I’m saving each page of your work for future reference. Thanks so much for sharing and for the excellent photos, keep up the good work.

~ Eddy

No question that this kit is a handful. The wife was away this weekend so I've been free to spend my day building. Between glue or paint drying, I can get items cleared from the "honey-do" list.

Good that you find this build log helpful. I figured that this would be a perfect kit for my first effort.

Step 28 has a lot of PE to deal with. I also added M53 which I forgot in the last step.

Instructions


Parts


PE parts formed. No real challenge except with Y18. It's not perfect, but, it will do.


Parts painted


Installation complete. Just take your time gluing each of the PE pieces.



Gearbox assembly is next.

Step 29 is a very busy step and it's better to break it down into smaller steps.

Instructions


Parts for the first part



For the gear selector handle, you have two options, D48 & R26. I've shown both parts in the above pic.

Parts assembled. I've temporarily attached both D48 & R26 so you can see both options. I've selected R26 for my build.



I have the instrument panel/frame and the radio dry fitted as these will be painted separately.

Continuing with the first part of the gearbox assembly.

Parts


Parts installed. The fit is not perfect as you can see some gaps. A little bit of putty should take care of it.

More Step 29.

Parts


Assembled


I'll leave these assemblies separate for painting.

Last part of Step 29

Parts


Assembled


All the sub-assemblies

Step 30 assembles the steering gear.

Instructions. There is one typo as I have indicated in red. The step shows part D4. It should be part D40


Parts


Assembled


The assemble is made up of three separate sections. Assemble each section and let the glue set before attaching them together.

I'm skipping Step 31 for the moment and going to Step 32. I want to finish the right side clutch assembly so I can start painting.

Instructions


Parts


Assembled


Everything from Steps 29, 30, and 32 will be assembled after painting.

I've got, almost, everything painted. Only the radio still to take care of.

The steering gear and radio rack are only dry fitted. I'll glue them to the gearbox after it has been installed in the hull.

Before going back to Step 31, I wanted to dry fit the gearbox assembly.

As you can see from these pics, it doesn't come close to fitting. (white circles)

Not sure yet how I'll go about making this work. Would have been better to test fit before painting.

Here is the problem. The gearbox is wider than the space it needs to fit into.

Damn, I got this and the RFM Panther G kit due to being more detailed, but now I'm having second thoughts about them given all the tiny PE parts and occasional fit issues.

They seem somewhat over-engineered so perhaps it's better for me to go for the Takom ones.

@d111298pw – Mark,

From the measurements you present it appears that you have approximately 0.45” of material that you will need to remove to get the gearbox to fit. If this measurement is correct that would equate to .225” material that would have to be removed on each side of the gearbox. You’ll have to look closely at where exactly the gearbox will sit before removing any material. This will give you a better estimate of how much material will actually need to be removed on each side to get the gearbox to sit correctly on the hulls lower plate. I’m sure you know that the important thing here is to make sure exactly where the gearbox needs to reside.

I always remove less material than I intend to remove and check for fit before proceeding further. All models present some issues and challenges of their own, learning to come up with simple solutions to solve these problems, is very rewarding and will make you a much better modeler with each kit you put together. You’ve already demonstrated your ability to overcome some fit issues on this kit with very simple solutions. Think it out first and imagine how it will come out and work for you before taking knife to plastic. The easiest way is always the best way! I know you can do it . . .

~ Eddy

Eddy, great minds think alike

This is what I'm planning to do. Hopefully, I'll get a chance to take care of this over the weekend. I'll be documenting how I do it and posting the process.

I was able to make a modification to fit the gearbox into the hull. It isn’t the most elegant or clean looking solution, but it works for me. Once the steering gear is installed, most of the work will not be visible anyway. Here is how I fixed the problem.

I stated by taking two small pieces of tape and marking a .3mm line on them. I decided on .3mm (.25mm was needed) just to make sure I had enough spacing after the cut, so I wouldn’t have to go back and do a second cut.


I then applied the tape to the arear that needed modified on the brake assemblies


I took out my PE saw blades from Scale Motorsports. There are many vendors who sell these.


Then I started to cut following the line on the tape.


I didn’t cut completely through, only half-way, or to the pin. After removing this small section, I also removed about .2mm from the pin. This is what it looks like after I have finished with the right side. I then repeated the same steps for the left side.



Here is what the final outcome looks like with a little paint applied.


Checking the fit of the gearbox.





It’s still not a perfect fit, but it will do the job. I probably could have got away with just removing .2mm from each side. I'll try to put a little putty in there. I’m sure there were other ways to take care of this problem, but this is one option.

Now I’ll go back to Step 31.

With the gearbox drama resolved, time to go back to Step 31. This is a quick and simple step. You do have the option to have the travel lock in the up (locked) or down (unlocked) position.

Instructions


Parts


The PE parts are small and all three require right-angle bends.

Here is a pic with the travel lock in the up position


I choose to build it in the down position.



Next, Step 33

I'll be splitting Step 33 for reasons I'll explain in a moment.

Instructions

Parts


As you can see, you need to install the full gearbox assembly. However, As I have shown already, don't attach everything to the gearbox until this step. You need to make sure it fits correctly and make any necessary adjustments. Then glue the gearbox into position. Once the Gearbox is installed, you can add the steering gear, from Step 30, and the radio rack (still waiting to install).




Here I've dry fitted the drive shaft. There should be no issues fitting this once the gearbox is installed.


Here is the reason I'm splitting this step. If you look ahead to Step 34, you install the plumbing lines to the gearbox. The area these are installed is circled in yellow.


Here, I have dry fitted parts M45 and M50. You need to install M45 first. Then fit M50. If you do it the other way around, you will have a fit issue. The yellow circle is in the same location as in the previous pic. As you can see, with M50 installed, it is impossible to install the plumbing in Step 34.


So, install the gearbox assembly first. Then skip to Step 34 and install the plumbing. Then come back and finish Step 33.

All the parts dry fitted.

So, let's move onto Step 34 and install the plumbing.

Instructions


RFM have a typo in this step. They call out part R27 twice. However, the one on the far right should be labeled as part H27.

Parts


There are a couple of different ways to install these. I simply decided to work from right to left.

Part H27


Part R28


At this point, take a break and let the glue dry for an hour. Then proceed with the next line.

Part R27. Carefully slide this line between R28 and H27. Then rotate it into position. Just take it slow, and you won't have any issues.


Part R4


Let the four lines dry for awhile before going back to finish Step 33.