Now, let's go back and finish Step 33.

Install the driveshaft first. The lines don't cause any problems.


Then install M45


Then install M50


Lastly, add the assembly from Step 31.


I've also added the radio rack to the gearbox.

On to Step 35. This step installs the ammunition racks on the right side pannier.

Instructions


Parts



For parts D43 and D44, it is easy to get them switched. As I have indicated, the smooth surface faces the outside of the hull.


The rack and electrical boxes assembled.


Painted and added to the lower rack cover.


The shell racks painted and installed. Make sure you get them positioned correctly. If you swap M60 and M61, the shells will face the wrong way. Same with M62 and M63. On the Ausf. G2, the shells in the aft rack faced to the rear of the vehicle.



The shrouds installed.




The mechanical parts installed. You need to bend the PE tabs out a bit to get them into position. Then bend them back and add a drop of CA glue.



Test fit of the two shell types in the rack, in their proper orientation.

I'll be traveling for the next three weeks. I'll pick up with Step 36 when I get back.

Well, I'm back from my trip. And, thanks to jet lag, I started Step 36 over the weekend. I wanted to get something posted, so here is the first part of the step.

Instructions


Parts




You have two "S" sprues. Sprue "E" also has shells on it. However, these are the 7.5cm rounds for the Panther Ausf. G kit. So, don't get them confused.

Parts painted


There is nothing complicated to assemble here.

Some of the parts installed



You see here that the angle brackets, Y80, do not match the angle of the racks. (yellow circles). It's not even close. [As pointed out be Eddy, I have the part upside down]


Here is the correct installation of part Y80.


I'll get to the rest of the step in a few days. It primarily deals with painting and decaling the shells.

Oh boy, I think the jet lag might have something to do with that issue. Try fitting those angle brackets upside down. So far you're doing great, just a little heck-up to keep things interesting!

~ Eddy

Amazing build, I have the clear body Panther G and you are terrifying me lol.

Eddy,
You are exactly right This is what happens at 3am in the morning and sleep deprived from 28 hours of flying. Thanks for pointing this out.

I'll flip the parts and replace the pic in my post.

Just got the kit yesterday after a looong wait; really appreciated your build and will have to review the whole thing again before starting (this time Ill make notes!) After this its off to the transparent Panther G...

I'll be giving myself a break from a full detail kit after this one is done. my transparent Panther G will be on the build list for sometime late next year.

Work, and other issues, have greatly limited my modeling time since I got back. I have been working on the shells, little-by-little. Painting is about 90% complete. This is just a short update as I continue with Step 36.

You get two "S" sprues. You get 25 shells on each sprue for a total of 50 shells. You have a total of 24 of part S1, and 26 of part S2.


Here is a closeup, again, of each of the two shell types included.


I was curious about what type of shells RFM included. I found this pic of the different types of shells available for the Jagdpanther main gun.


My best guess is that S1 and S2 represent the shells I have identified on the pic. So, this is the basis on how I choose to paint the shells. S1 requires two different colors. S2 requires three different colors. This all requires lots of masking, painting, then more masking, and more paining. You have 50 rounds to paint. So, this takes a lot of time.

Once the painting is complete, then you have to decal all of them. Each shell has three decals. That is a total of 150 decals you need to apply. I hate doing decals, so this is a very slow process for me.

I have come across one issue with the decals. Here is how it breaks-down.

Part S1 uses decals 1, 4, 8. Remember, you have 24 shells to decal. Here are the counts:

Decal #1 - 29 on the sheet
Decal #4 - 22 on the sheet
Decal #8 - 28 on the sheet

It should stand out here that RFM didn't give you enough #4 decals for all 24 shells. You have extras of the other two.

Part S2 uses decals 2, 3, 9. Remember, you have 26 shells to decal. Here are the counts:

Decal #2 - 24 on the sheet
Decal #3 - 26 on the sheet
Decal #9 - 23 on the sheet

Again, RFM didn't give you enough #2 and #9 decals for 26 shells.

I have no idea how RFM could screw this up so badly. How hard is it to count?

Now, the kit allows you to install 49 shells. The racks on the right side hold 21 shells. The racks on the left side hold 28 shells. Therefore, you will be using all but one shell, if doing a full load-out. Fortunately, since you are provided individual shells, you can do any load-out of your choosing.

As soon as I complete the decal application, I'll post pics of the round and the final parts of Step 36. That should happen this weekend.

I've started applying the decals to the shells. I thought I'd show a few pics of how I'm doing this.





This setup makes it easy to paint and decal the shell casing.

I have discovered an error in the decal guide included in Step 36


The guide has the numbers for decal #8 and #9 reversed. Make sure to correct this in your instructions before decaling.

The other decal numbers appear to be correct.

I've got all the shells painted and decaled.

Completed Part S1



You only need 23 of these shells.

Completed S2



Now, I jest need to install them in their racks and finish Step 36.

The right side racks are now equipped with shells.


You do need to be careful when putting the shells into the racks. It is very easy to "pop" something loose when pushing them in. Take you time and go slow.

The fold down seat is now installed as well.


I haven't installed the two metal cables indicated in the step. Unfortunately, you need to drill holes in parts D43 and D44 before installing them back in Step 35. Of course, Step 35 doesn't say anything about needing to do this, and I missed it. Since I didn't drill the holes, I don't have anyplace to anchor the lines on the part. I'll play around with it for a little while, but, I'm not going to loose sleep if they aren't installed.

Mark,

Just started viewing your build log. Those shells look great, nice work.

Mark

Thanks Mark

Time to start work on the left side racks. First we need to assemble the rack frames. This is done with sub-steps A11 and A12.

Instructions


Parts


Assembled



Painted



Nothing very challenging here. Just make sure you have the orientation for parts Y93 and S11 are correct.

I have completed step 37. Not much to this one. Just installing the racks on the left side.

Instructions


Parts


Painted


Don't forget to drill the .6mm hole for the gas mask canister (R16)

As in Step 36, I'll be leaving off the cables since I didn't pre-drill holes for them.

I'll install all of the parts in Step 38.

With the challenge of getting the shells installed in the racks on the right side, I decided to take a different approach with the left side.

I installed the rear racks (M58 & M59). Without the framework from Step A12 it makes very easy to slide the shells into each of their slots.



Then the front racks M64 & M65.


It's much easier to install the shells this way.


Now, you can easily add the frames from Steps A11 & A12


Now, time for Step 38

Step 38 adds various equipment on top of the ammo racks. It also has you add the shells, which I did previously to make it easier. There are lots of small parts in this step. Patience is needed for part S14.

Instructions


Parts


Painted


Installed

@d111298pw - Mark,

You've come a long ways already, keep up the good work and documentation. Thanks for the assembly short cuts your posting. You're still a ways from crossing the finish line so don't give up. You'll need a rest after this build. I'm a slow builder so this will take me awhile to put together so I'm keeping notes and downloading the pages for later.

~ Eddy

Thanks Eddy. I plan to take a break once this one is finished.

Managed to get one more step completed. Step 39 adds the firewall.

Instructions


Parts. I had painted the firewall earlier.


The instructions show you need part Y88b. The only problem I have is that this part isn't on the PE fret. So, not sure where it is. If I come across it on one of the sprues, I'll add it at that time.

Assembled


Installed



When installing the firewall, be careful that you get it into the slots of the PE frames (yellow circles). If not lined up correctly, it will pop loose the frame.


On the front side, make sure the fire extinguisher is lined-up with the cutout in the floor.


Clamped-up and leting the glue dry.


Install the step, S9, after the firewall is in place.

On to the next step.

Step 40 is a rather simple step, as it only has two parts. However, it represents a bigger milestone. With the completion of Step 40, the fighting compartment is complete.

Instructions


Parts


One end of the shaft has the shape of a "D" (outlined in yellow). This end goes into the transfer box. The other side will connect to the engine.


Shaft installed. This needs to be done first.


Floor plate installed


Completed Fighting Compartment




Next up is the engine compartment.

Time to get back to work

Before Step 41, we need to assemble the compartment side firewalls. RFM has this as a sub-step.

Instructions


Parts (I forgot to add H33 for the picture)


Assembled


No issues putting these together.

I'll get these painted in the next step.

Continuing with Step 41. Not much to do in this step.

Instructions


Parts


Painted


In case you get Z13 and Z14 mixed-up, there is an easy way to figure out which is which. The end, circled in yellow, is narrower then the other end. This narrow end goes to the outside of the pannier.


Installed



Be careful installing A13 and A14. Install these first, then add Z13 and Z14.