Sub-step A23 is next. This assembles the Jack. RFM provide you the option to display the jack "in use" for a roadwheel change diorama, or similar.

For my build, it will be stored on the back plate.

Instructions


Parts


You can cut J76 to the length you need if using it in a diorama. If you are going to build in the stored position, cut this part at the line in the yellow circle. DO NOT remove the pin, circled in red, as this is required for attaching it to the back plate.


Assembled



I'll paint all the tools at one time at the end of the build.

Next are the rear mounted storage boxes, Step A23.

RFM give you both styles of boxes used on the late G2's. The primary version is with the "X" pattern (G10/G12). The version with the horizontal ribs (G15/G19) was used, but not on a lot of vehicles. Box G16 is for the Panther IR equipment and is not used on the G2.


Instructions


Parts


Assembled

The last of the sub-steps are for the right and left exhaust muffler. The late G2's all had the flame suppressing mufflers. RFM also includes the hoods. However, you don't need to install them unless you want. Not all vehicles were built with them and they easily got knocked off in the field.

Instructions


Parts


Assembled


Now, we can start assembling the rear panel.

Finally starting on the back panel. Step 53 adds cover plates and brackets. The jack and wire cutters will be added later after painting.

Instructions


Parts


Assembled

Continuing with more tool brackets on the lower back panel. The instructions shows both shackles as part J60. This isn't correct. One is J55, the other is J60.

Instructions


Parts


Installed

Completing the back panel with the addition of the storage boxes and exhaust mufflers. I have left the exhaust hoods off at the moment. I still haven't decided if I'll use them or not.

Instructions


Parts


Installed



I haven't glued part J28 yet, as I need to install the jack later. So, I have used Microscale's Micro Liquitape. It holds the part in place and is then easy to remove.

I'll be travelling for the next couple of weeks. So, new updates will happen after I return on the 25th.

I'm back from my trip down under and back at work on the build.

Step 56 doesn't have many parts. The rear panel, from Step 55, is installed along with the lower storage box supports and the rear tow hooks.

Instructions


Parts


Painted and installed



The tools and jack will be installed later.

This completes the assembly of the lower hull. Next you start on the running gear.

Before getting to Step 57, you have a number of sub-steps dealing with the roadwheels, drive sprocket assembly, idler wheel.

I'll start with Step A26.

Instructions


Parts


RFM gives you the internal gears that provides you many options for a maintenance diorama.


Assembled



The level of detail is excellent.

Since this is a very late war version (April 1945), the skid (G36/37) is used in place of the return roller. However, if you want to build an early 1945 version with the return roller, you can. The return roller is part C14.

Time to get to the roadwheels, drive sprocket, and idler wheel. I'll be leaving all the parts on the sprue to do the primary painting. Once this is completed, I'll complete steps A27 through A31.

Instructions


RFM has given you one of each style of roadwheel for use in a diorama. These are in Steps A28 and A30.

Parts

I have completed Steps A27, A29, and A31.

Here are the double roadwheel set for Step A27.


Be careful when installing the polycaps into C8. I show you here the correct and incorrect way to install them. The polycap opening needs to be installed "face down"


Completed


Step A29 assembles the Idler Wheel. No real issues with this one. The idler represents the late 665mm dia. version.





Step A31 assembles the Drive Sprocket. Again, this is the late version. No issues with the assembly.




Time to install all of these sub-assemblies.

Time to start adding roadwheels. Step 57 adds the inner roadwheels, drive sprocket gear assemblies, front tow hooks and two PE brackets.

Instructions


Parts


The fit of roadwheel C1 is very tight on the axles. I decided to open the holes just a bit to allow them to fit easily. I used a #41 drill bit to do this.


Parts Installed





Everything fit nicely.

Step 58 adds the Drive Sprocket, Double Roadwheels, and Idler Wheel.

Instructions


Parts


Installed



The roadwheels fit easily as these use polycaps.

Step 59 adds the outer roadwheels.

Instructions


Parts


Installed



The running gear is now complete. I'll attach the drive sprockets after the tracks are assembled.

Step 60 starts the roof panel assembly. This version of the kit has the roof as a clear part. That gives you the option of leaving it clear and being able to view the interior. Or, you can paint it. I'll be leaving it clear for my build.

Instructions


I started with sub-steps A32 and A33

Parts for A32/33


One of the handles (L20) disappeared on me. So, I scratched a replacement from .5mm wire.


Parts for the step


Assembled



No real issues here. The hatches don't fit together that well. But, it's good enough for me.

Getting closer to the finish line. Step 61 continues with the roof assembly.

Instructions


Parts


Installed



It's easy to loose that tiny pe bracket, Y86. No real issues here.

Step 62 finishes the roof assembly.

Instructions


Parts


The instructions tell you to connect Y29 and Y79 with a wire through the hole. If you elect to do it this way, a .2mm or .3mm wire should be used. I elected to glue the parts together as I won;t be having the assembly moveable.

Assembled



Next up are the tracks.

The main focus of Step 63 is the assembly of the tracks.

Instructions


I'm not attaching the superstructure at this time. I haven't decided how I want to display this once it's finished.

RFM also includes the option to build the track assembly tool for a diorama.

RFM also includes ice cleats (X4) for a winter build. The instructions also show these are part X7. That is not correct. Only X4 is the cleat. You are only given seven on each X Sprue. In reality, these were installed on every 5th to 7th track link. For 87 links, this would require 12-18 ice cleats per side. RFM hasn't given you enough to assemble correctly.

Parts




Track Assembly Jig - Glue the two parts together and it will hold 11 links.


You need to be careful of the orientation of the links. Otherwise, you will assemble them backwards. Here, I show the correct and wrong orientation.


Here are the first 11 links in the jig


You have two types of pins, X14 & X15. Which side you install these determines if it is a left or right side track. X14 is the outside pin. The pins are grouped in sets of five to make is easy to install.


The assembled first run for the right side.


Test fit around the Drive Sprocket



Place the complete link into the first spot on the jig. Then place the next links to complete the second run.


Continue doing this until all 87 links are assembled.

The tracks are designed to be workable. You need to carefully place a drop of glue at the head of each pin. Too much glue, and the track won't move. I use a pin to place the drop.


This is a slow process that can't be rushed.

I've completed the right side track and the test fit was good.





On to the left side track, and the spare links.

Mark,
Been a while since I checked in. Everything looks great!

Thanks

I've completed the left track as well.





And the spare track links


Time to paint.

Looking good! I like the interior detail!

Thanks Thomas

The tracks have been painted and installed





The next step is the last one for the build. I then need to finish painting the tools and install them.