Once again, like Jerry's figures, it's difficult to accurately judge the stature of the figures. The Tamiya para is "standing tall" whereas the Russian is casually slouched and the others are stooped to some extent. The heads of figures 3 & 4 are also clearly larger than the Tamiya one and they are more stocky. This also brings in the factor of build as well as height.

Cheers Jerry, a useful comparison...

Worth pointing out, as already has been, that a “human” is neither 1/35 or 1/32, just their equipment.

When I scratch build a figure, I will work out a height, usually average for that time period, and scale it accordingly. British Para’s were often shorter but this wasn’t universally the case, as there were paras over 6 foot.

For me, the bulkiness would be more critical, as chunky combat soldiers in WW2 would be rare...and more often than not quite scrawny.

Well, in my platoon (training) we had a guy of 2 metres. length (6' 6.7") and a guy of 1,65 meters (5'4.9") lenght. Imagine both trying to carry the same log
Yet we carried all the same size helmet, backpack, shovels, guns, etc.

I myself am only 1,90 meters (6'2.8")

The point has been brought up about the difficulty making a good comparison using the figs I posted. It really cannot be helped as it would be almost impossible to find a similar pose across the spectrum of model company kits.
Also brought up is the sister topic called "stature".
This also varies widely from company to company IMHO.
I find the newer Drago figs and also the Bronc figs to be way too "beefy" and so I usually reduce the width from shoulder tip to shoulder tip and also the girth at the waist. The vast majority of pics from WWII show young, skinny guys. Underfed because of growing up during the Great Depression, regardless of country of origin.
So, it's worthwhile to repeat what several of us have written, the key thing is to use the same size equipment when combining figs from different companies and all should then be kosher.
J

That's a very good article. There are subtle differences in 1/35th scale figures from DML, Tamiya, Italeri, and lots more.

Good points raised there. What method do you use to reduce a figure's build , without ruining the moulded detail ?

It can usually get accomplished with a rotary tool and a cylinder shaped grinding bit. The Dremel brand includes that kind of bit in the standard package.
I just grind off the top of the arm, where it joins the shoulder, creating a new upper arm line from elbow to shoulder. This usually takes care of it without touching the torso at all. The waist is handled by taking some width off both sides around the belt area. This can usually just be re-scribed without having to use putty or anything.

I took a lot off this guys shoulders and waist.


J