Campaigns
Where Armorama group builds can be discussed, organized, and updates posted.
Where Armorama group builds can be discussed, organized, and updates posted.
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What if Campaign?
vonHengest
Joined: June 29, 2010
KitMaker: 5,854 posts
Armorama: 4,817 posts
Posted: Wednesday, January 11, 2012 - 05:06 AM UTC
Thanks Gary
imatanker
Joined: February 11, 2011
KitMaker: 1,654 posts
Armorama: 1,565 posts
Posted: Thursday, January 12, 2012 - 02:27 PM UTC
Had a Snow Day today here in Maine,That means NO WORK 
After getting the driveway cleared(and yes Zon,the road wheels are frozen in and did not move)I got some stuff done.Painted the lower hull 
Vents,hatches and stuff 
Rear panel almost done,have to deside which gloss level to use 
And last but not least rear deck cooling fans.All the reddish parts are painted with Vallejo Cavalry Brown,Looked pretty close to red oxide 
Jeff
After getting the driveway cleared(and yes Zon,the road wheels are frozen in and did not move)I got some stuff done.Painted the lower hull Vents,hatches and stuff Rear panel almost done,have to deside which gloss level to use And last but not least rear deck cooling fans.All the reddish parts are painted with Vallejo Cavalry Brown,Looked pretty close to red oxide Jeff
Removed by original poster on 01/13/12 - 09:17:13 (GMT).
imatanker
Joined: February 11, 2011
KitMaker: 1,654 posts
Armorama: 1,565 posts
Posted: Thursday, January 12, 2012 - 09:19 PM UTC
Sorry,Here's the rear deck 
Later,Jeff
Later,Jeff
imatanker
Joined: February 11, 2011
KitMaker: 1,654 posts
Armorama: 1,565 posts
Posted: Saturday, January 14, 2012 - 01:20 AM UTC
PE is good,it looks better,PE is good,it's more to scale,PE is good,it makes you a better modeler,PE is good,.....Who am I trying to kid ,it's a royal pain in the butt!Here's what I've been up to this morning. 
Six of the little springy,want to jump off the tweezers,not to mention small,extra track link brackets on the left and on the right,for a total of 12.
I think I have lost 5 pounds all ready.I need to stay hydrated,plenty of fluids,yes that's it,plenty of fluids. 
Jeff
Six of the little springy,want to jump off the tweezers,not to mention small,extra track link brackets on the left and on the right,for a total of 12.
I think I have lost 5 pounds all ready.I need to stay hydrated,plenty of fluids,yes that's it,plenty of fluids. Jeff
AgentG
Joined: December 21, 2008
KitMaker: 1,109 posts
Armorama: 1,095 posts
Posted: Saturday, January 14, 2012 - 06:36 AM UTC
Fluids yeah, fluids that's it. Like Jack and Coke maybe?
G
G
imatanker
Joined: February 11, 2011
KitMaker: 1,654 posts
Armorama: 1,565 posts
Posted: Saturday, January 14, 2012 - 09:35 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Wayne,Coke is very expensive and can't be wasted. Fluids yeah, fluids that's it. Like Jack and Coke maybe?
G
So I guess it's Jack straight.Although I'm more of a scotch guy.Anyway water is costly also,so that will have to be straight too.There's alot of PE in this kit,I might have to break out the 151 
Model on,Jeff
RuloMxy
Joined: March 05, 2009
KitMaker: 154 posts
Armorama: 137 posts
Posted: Saturday, January 14, 2012 - 02:05 PM UTC
This is the kit that I'm going to build for the what if campaign. The scenario for this chinese T-80 tank is the following?
Mr. Gorbachev doesn't start the negotiation talks to address the sino-soviet border dispute in 1987. So when the Soviet Union collapses, the chinese army ambushes a soviet patrol, like in May 1969. The russian army sends a T-80 tank company to retialiate but loose one to a mine. The mine detonates the autoloader carrousel and wrecks the tank. The chinese army recovers the tank, as in May 1969, but can only reverse engineer the hull design and uses it for their new Type 88 tank.
Mr. Gorbachev doesn't start the negotiation talks to address the sino-soviet border dispute in 1987. So when the Soviet Union collapses, the chinese army ambushes a soviet patrol, like in May 1969. The russian army sends a T-80 tank company to retialiate but loose one to a mine. The mine detonates the autoloader carrousel and wrecks the tank. The chinese army recovers the tank, as in May 1969, but can only reverse engineer the hull design and uses it for their new Type 88 tank.
AgentG
Joined: December 21, 2008
KitMaker: 1,109 posts
Armorama: 1,095 posts
Posted: Saturday, January 14, 2012 - 02:28 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextWayne,Coke is very expensive and can't be wasted.Fluids yeah, fluids that's it. Like Jack and Coke maybe?
G
Water is a prescious commodity here in the Mojave so I do my part. No "on the rocks"
By the way, what's "snow"?
G
imatanker
Joined: February 11, 2011
KitMaker: 1,654 posts
Armorama: 1,565 posts
Posted: Saturday, January 14, 2012 - 02:54 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextQuoted TextWayne,Coke is very expensive and can't be wasted.Fluids yeah, fluids that's it. Like Jack and Coke maybe?
G
Water is a prescious commodity here in the Mojave so I do my part. No "on the rocks"
By the way, what's "snow"?
G
Wayne:Don't they have alot of "snow" in Las Vagas?
Just jokingRaul:Welcome fellow Mainer,better late than never.Jeff
gcdavidson
Joined: August 05, 2003
KitMaker: 1,698 posts
Armorama: 1,563 posts
Posted: Sunday, January 15, 2012 - 06:23 AM UTC
Gloss coated with some markings added. I discovered that micro-sol will 'eat' into Future. A small drop had pooled on the turret, and when I went to dab it up, the paper town stuck into the gloss.
vonHengest
Joined: June 29, 2010
KitMaker: 5,854 posts
Armorama: 4,817 posts
Posted: Sunday, January 15, 2012 - 08:24 AM UTC
Jeff: Regarding your earlier questions about lights on the rear panel of your Panther, the dot shaped one in the lower left is a red reflector that seems prevalent on both A and G models, while the rod shaped lens I believe to be a standard German tail light and should be painted red.
Nice job with the PE, I know it's a pain but it's very worthwhile for the Panthers
Raul: Very interesting, I like your choice!
Graeme: That's good to know and thank you for sharing your experience with us. I typically just spray on some gloss clear for my decals and haven't had any problem with micro-sol or micro-set. I dig the Canadian markings, very nice
Nice job with the PE, I know it's a pain but it's very worthwhile for the Panthers
Raul: Very interesting, I like your choice!
Graeme: That's good to know and thank you for sharing your experience with us. I typically just spray on some gloss clear for my decals and haven't had any problem with micro-sol or micro-set. I dig the Canadian markings, very nice
imatanker
Joined: February 11, 2011
KitMaker: 1,654 posts
Armorama: 1,565 posts
Posted: Sunday, January 15, 2012 - 12:01 PM UTC
VonH,thank you I thuoght that was the case but just could not seem to find any pics.
G,looks nice,do you thin your future?if so with what?
G,looks nice,do you thin your future?if so with what?
gcdavidson
Joined: August 05, 2003
KitMaker: 1,698 posts
Armorama: 1,563 posts
Posted: Sunday, January 15, 2012 - 12:07 PM UTC
Hi Jeff, no, I spray the future straight from the bottle. But I am debating about thinning it, as it went on with a bit of an orange peel.
imatanker
Joined: February 11, 2011
KitMaker: 1,654 posts
Armorama: 1,565 posts
Posted: Sunday, January 15, 2012 - 02:19 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Hi Jeff, no, I spray the future straight from the bottle. But I am debating about thinning it, as it went on
with a bit of an orange peel.
I tried it,but it was just too thick for my AB.I liked the gloss though.I would think that for decals you like it to be as smooth it could be.What kind of AB are you using and what is the tip size?Jeff
gcdavidson
Joined: August 05, 2003
KitMaker: 1,698 posts
Armorama: 1,563 posts
Posted: Sunday, January 15, 2012 - 03:49 PM UTC
Hmm, my future is really runny, close to water consistency. When I wrote about thinning it, I was thinking more a retarder to slow the drying time and give it time to level out.
I'm using a Badger 200, fine needle / crown tip.
I'm using a Badger 200, fine needle / crown tip.
imatanker
Joined: February 11, 2011
KitMaker: 1,654 posts
Armorama: 1,565 posts
Posted: Sunday, January 15, 2012 - 03:55 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Hmm, my future is really runny, close to water consistency. When I wrote about thinning it, I was thinking more a retarder to slow the drying time and give it time to level out.
I'm using a Badger 200, fine needle / crown tip.
I'm pretty new to the airbruch thing,maybe I just need to fiddle somemore.What pressure do you spray it at?Thanks.Jeff
wedgetail53
Joined: October 02, 2008
KitMaker: 658 posts
Armorama: 629 posts
Posted: Sunday, January 15, 2012 - 05:44 PM UTC
Jeremy
Forgive me if I'm wrong, but I had the idea that "the rod shaped one" was a convoy light and should be blue.
Regards
Rob
Forgive me if I'm wrong, but I had the idea that "the rod shaped one" was a convoy light and should be blue.
Regards
Rob
vonHengest
Joined: June 29, 2010
KitMaker: 5,854 posts
Armorama: 4,817 posts
Posted: Sunday, January 15, 2012 - 06:03 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Jeremy
Forgive me if I'm wrong, but I had the idea that "the rod shaped one" was a convoy light and should be blue.
Regards
Rob
You very well may be correct, I can't offer any proof either way at the moment. Typically for the Hetzer kits the instructions call for them to be painted red which may or may not mean anything. I will continue to look into this and see if I can come up with a solid answer, and thank you for your input Rob.
vonHengest
Joined: June 29, 2010
KitMaker: 5,854 posts
Armorama: 4,817 posts
Posted: Sunday, January 15, 2012 - 06:42 PM UTC
Ok, this may be of value. There doesn't seem to be a lot of information on this style of light without some real digging.
I found this photo on this discussion which has been one of the more useful ones that I have found so far. This one is worth reading. Take note that it is acknowledged that the light is also depicted in some sources as being a solid blue tube. I have read this in a small number of threads, but have not yet found any actual proof to support this.
**edit
This site is probably correct for what you are working with, and suggests a dark blue color.
http://www.network54.com/Forum/637977/thread/1282236613/Wich+rear+light
I found this photo on this discussion which has been one of the more useful ones that I have found so far. This one is worth reading. Take note that it is acknowledged that the light is also depicted in some sources as being a solid blue tube. I have read this in a small number of threads, but have not yet found any actual proof to support this.
**edit
This site is probably correct for what you are working with, and suggests a dark blue color.
http://www.network54.com/Forum/637977/thread/1282236613/Wich+rear+light
imatanker
Joined: February 11, 2011
KitMaker: 1,654 posts
Armorama: 1,565 posts
Posted: Monday, January 16, 2012 - 02:04 AM UTC
Little did I know the such a small item would turn into such a big discussion I think I will go with clear blue with a silver reflector,that should look cool.Thanks.Jeff
I think I will go with clear blue with a silver reflector,that should look cool.Thanks.Jeffgcdavidson
Joined: August 05, 2003
KitMaker: 1,698 posts
Armorama: 1,563 posts
Posted: Monday, January 16, 2012 - 02:25 AM UTC
Quoted Text
What pressure do you spray it at?Thanks.Jeff
About 10-15 psi
imatanker
Joined: February 11, 2011
KitMaker: 1,654 posts
Armorama: 1,565 posts
Posted: Monday, January 16, 2012 - 02:28 AM UTC
Here's this mornings update.Upper hull is taking shape almost ready to prime 
This is the most PE I've ever done,and I don't think that I will use all of it cause of it is just too darn small for these old eyes and fingers
Plus the instructions are not that good.I'll give you an example.See the "basket"between the cable spool and the tool rack?I think it was scored on the wrong side,because in order to make it look right,I had to bend it on the unscored side.I like the way it came out,but I'm just saying 
Lastly the rear deck
I will be using Vallejos primer,Washed some small parts with windex and sprayed them,let them dry 24 hrs just to see what the stuff was like.Should I be able to scrape it off with my fingernail Jeff
This is the most PE I've ever done,and I don't think that I will use all of it cause of it is just too darn small for these old eyes and fingers
Plus the instructions are not that good.I'll give you an example.See the "basket"between the cable spool and the tool rack?I think it was scored on the wrong side,because in order to make it look right,I had to bend it on the unscored side.I like the way it came out,but I'm just saying Lastly the rear deck
I will be using Vallejos primer,Washed some small parts with windex and sprayed them,let them dry 24 hrs just to see what the stuff was like.Should I be able to scrape it off with my fingernail
Jeff
ppawlak1
Joined: March 14, 2006
KitMaker: 1,973 posts
Armorama: 1,843 posts
Posted: Monday, January 16, 2012 - 06:11 AM UTC
I'm using the Alpine US OIF Tank Crew for my Aussie Leopard 2A5.
There are no changes to the figures to make them "current" Australian "Tankers" as this is a "What if ?", but they're done in OzCam.
Cheers
Paul
There are no changes to the figures to make them "current" Australian "Tankers" as this is a "What if ?", but they're done in OzCam.
Cheers
Paul
vonHengest
Joined: June 29, 2010
KitMaker: 5,854 posts
Armorama: 4,817 posts
Posted: Monday, January 16, 2012 - 06:50 AM UTC
Jeff: Unfortunately yes, Vallejo paints are very soft so take care handling them until you can get a protective clear coat over them. I think your convoy light will look excellent in clear blue with a reflector behind it, sort of giving it a glowing look when the light hits it right.
Paul: I dig the figures, nice work!
Paul: I dig the figures, nice work!
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