I chose to go with surfacer, and here's how the seam looks after two applications of it.

Thanks.
Glad you like it.

I've made start with the stowage holders on the other side the hull.

The etched part is a shovel holder, the part that holds the blade, to be exact (there's another one in the rear as well). Also attached at this point are the two axe racks near the front and the tubular socket for the metal bar (the holding strap will be where the other felt pen marking is. The strips of masking tape help position the retaining straps and the tow cable holders on the fenders.



^There's two close-ups of the axe racks. Made from sheet styrene and scrap PE.


Those are the tow cable holders, still in pieces. Only the major parts are assembled (three parts each). The triangular supports are so tiny I'll surely lose a few while gluing. Fortunately they're easy to make. Just cut pieces from a styrene strip.



Here's the engine intake cover in-progress. Notice the rectangular hole (for the fuel lines from the external tanks, I presume) filled with styrene sheet. Strangely, dragong's kit didn't come with a rear light of any kind, so I used PE parts from a zoom set made for tamiya's kit, the round light cover and the light part itself. To mount the PE light part, I made a part from a piece of sprue to make the bulk of the light.
While dryfitting the PE part to the housing, it of course had to fall and was quickly devoured by the creatures dwelling in the floor.
Now where do I get a replacement?
Of course, the Aber PE engine screen set I used included two types of covers for the rear light, but not the light itself, like the zoom set...

Great work Eetu,

The carpet monster has been a real ba$tard to me recently too. The tiny hinge parts from an aber PE set 'pinged' off never to be seen again (one actually got deflected off my eyelid directly into the monsters grasp.
On this note has anyone seen the dio in the new IPMS-USA Nationals 2007 Show Report on the frontpage? 3rd pic in will make you laugh!

Why don't PE sets provide spares of the smaller parts to account for this?!

Can't help with the light i'm afraid, but keep up the great work.

James

It is inspired isn't it!

On that note I won a battle over the carpet monster last night when after dropping a part (that turned out to have actually fallen on my table, not the floor), my eagle eyes found two of the three peices of PE I thought i'd lost!

Carpet Monster: 1
James: 2



(Of course this is the score just for my current build - the carpet monsters score on aggregate would be in the thousands!)

James

Excellent little details Eetu, those tow cable brackets are microscopic!

Painting is always an annoyance for me. You spend hours building it; then it just takes one screw-up to set you over the edge!

Thanks.
I hoping I don't mess up with painting too.
Talking about it, here's the turret after the first coat of paint.

The photo is a little dark but gives a quite good impression of the shade.
4 parts British interior green, 1 part black, both from xtracrylics.

Quoted Text

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Painting is always an annoyance for me. You spend hours building it; then it just takes one screw-up to set you over the edge!

---

Well, guess what happened. I was painting the stowage box. It slipped through my fingers, heading for the floor. Now what's the dumbest thing to do if this happens with delicate parts?
Yes, you guessed it. I did bring my legs together to catch it in mid-air...

Fortunately it wasn't hard to fix. The side snapped off at two points, and only the single top beam was bent in any way. Some superglue, cursing and fiddling with the parts and it was back together.

Now the whole thing has one coat of green on:

And a word of warning. Don't use this as a color refenrece of any kind.
I posted on two Finnish forums asking for advice on the paint used on post-war tanks. As usual, experts show up after you've already started painting.
Apparently all museum vehicles (that should be) sporting a post-war paintjob, are more or less wrong. But what the legend doesn't tell, is how the exterior paint used right after ww2 should look. No documentation about it has been discovered so far. So be it. This vehicle is then being based on an inaccurately-painted museum vehicle, painted with paints of questionable accuracy.

Quoted Text

---

Painting is always an annoyance for me. You spend hours building it; then it just takes one screw-up to set you over the edge!

---

Well, guess what happened. I was painting the stowage box. It slipped through my fingers, heading for the floor. Now what's the dumbest thing to do if this happens with delicate parts?
Yes, you guessed it. I did bring my legs together to catch it in mid-air...

Fortunately it wasn't hard to fix. The side snapped off at two points, and only the single top beam was bent in any way. Some superglue, cursing and fiddling with the parts and it was back together.

Now the whole thing has one coat of green on:

And a word of warning. Don't use this as a color refenrece of any kind.
I posted on two Finnish forums asking for advice on the paint used on post-war tanks. As usual, experts show up after you've already started painting.
Apparently all museum vehicles (that should be) sporting a post-war paintjob, are more or less wrong. But what the legend doesn't tell, is how the exterior paint used right after ww2 should look. No documentation about it has been discovered so far. So be it. This vehicle is then being based on an inaccurately-painted museum vehicle, painted with paints of questionable accuracy.

As long as your happy with the finish dont worry about it being absolutely an exact match.

Just a quick point, is it me, or the camera, but your base coat looks more grey than green to me?