Campaigns
Where Armorama group builds can be discussed, organized, and updates posted.
Where Armorama group builds can be discussed, organized, and updates posted.
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spongya
Associate Editor
Budapest, Hungary
Joined: February 01, 2005
KitMaker: 2,365 posts
Armorama: 1,709 posts
Joined: February 01, 2005
KitMaker: 2,365 posts
Armorama: 1,709 posts
Posted: Sunday, September 23, 2007 - 10:44 AM UTC
You know, however irritating it might be, you might be able to use it for your advantage. When weathering with oils, it might be possible to blend it in to the other irregularities in color. Maybe?
Emeritus
Uusimaa, Finland
Joined: March 30, 2004
KitMaker: 2,845 posts
Armorama: 808 posts
Joined: March 30, 2004
KitMaker: 2,845 posts
Armorama: 808 posts
Posted: Sunday, September 23, 2007 - 06:27 PM UTC
After bearing the sight of that stain for a while, I went over it with two shades of green again. Now I think it's adequately blended in. And adding to that the weathering to come, it'll look okay.
Jamesite
United Kingdom
Joined: December 05, 2006
KitMaker: 2,208 posts
Armorama: 2,152 posts
Joined: December 05, 2006
KitMaker: 2,208 posts
Armorama: 2,152 posts
Posted: Sunday, September 23, 2007 - 08:24 PM UTC
Great work Eetu,
With the pics taken in your usual spot the colour is definately green and not grey. Unlucky with the thinner, but great detective work! Looks fine now in your latest pic. Am looking forward to seeing this progress.
James
With the pics taken in your usual spot the colour is definately green and not grey. Unlucky with the thinner, but great detective work! Looks fine now in your latest pic. Am looking forward to seeing this progress.
James
Emeritus
Uusimaa, Finland
Joined: March 30, 2004
KitMaker: 2,845 posts
Armorama: 808 posts
Joined: March 30, 2004
KitMaker: 2,845 posts
Armorama: 808 posts
Posted: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 - 05:47 AM UTC
My build's coming along nicely, although I'm not so sure anymore if I can finish it and have the article published in time for the feature competition. Anyway, I'm not rushing with it, if it takes more time, then it will. The article's in the works as well, I'll be submitting it when I'm done.
Decals are now on.
The turret roundels are from a Kuivalainen decal sheet. From what I know, there has been only roundel sheets released in several scales so far. It's bit of a pity, since these are top-notch. Just like decals should be.
Too bad I can't say the same for the wiking-decal registry codes. They came from their T-34 sheet. Since the codes I needed weren't included (in fact, the whole sheet covered T-34/76's), I had to do some cutting to come up with the right numbers. According to my references (That museum vehicle again. which of course can be all wrong, but this is built after that! ) I also removed the periods and modified number 2's as well. 3's in the decal sheet where of the wrong style (round tops, while my references show sharp angled tops), but I left them as they were, since the only way of fixing them would have been painting all new numbers (and the difference isn't that grand).
But that's not what was wrong with them.
What was is they resembled InScale and academy decals (although less so). They looked good and quite thin on the sheet, but they turned out to be stiff and silvered somewhat. The stiffness didn't matter because the codes went on flat surfaces, but silvering is always a nuisance. (The spots where the decals went on the hull and turret where of same gloss, and the roundels went on flawlessly) Several applications of micro-sol and slicing the decals over trapped air got them to settle down adequately. I guess you just have to know your decals so you know when a glass-smooth surface and extra care is needed. Oh yes, I also got the rear registry codes too far right. The number three should only go a little over the round engine hatch, but it's all the way over it. Again, laziness struck and I left it like that (I also didn't feel like re-positioning the decals when I got them to settle down)
Now, I hope a flat coat (or two) will blend in the gloss areas and the rest of the model. Then, it's weathering time.
Btw, I also made a start with the tracks. Following a black primer coat, I've applied a thin coat of burnt umber acrylic paint (vallejo) so far.
Decals are now on.
The turret roundels are from a Kuivalainen decal sheet. From what I know, there has been only roundel sheets released in several scales so far. It's bit of a pity, since these are top-notch. Just like decals should be.
Too bad I can't say the same for the wiking-decal registry codes. They came from their T-34 sheet. Since the codes I needed weren't included (in fact, the whole sheet covered T-34/76's), I had to do some cutting to come up with the right numbers. According to my references (That museum vehicle again. which of course can be all wrong, but this is built after that! ) I also removed the periods and modified number 2's as well. 3's in the decal sheet where of the wrong style (round tops, while my references show sharp angled tops), but I left them as they were, since the only way of fixing them would have been painting all new numbers (and the difference isn't that grand).
But that's not what was wrong with them.
What was is they resembled InScale and academy decals (although less so). They looked good and quite thin on the sheet, but they turned out to be stiff and silvered somewhat. The stiffness didn't matter because the codes went on flat surfaces, but silvering is always a nuisance. (The spots where the decals went on the hull and turret where of same gloss, and the roundels went on flawlessly) Several applications of micro-sol and slicing the decals over trapped air got them to settle down adequately. I guess you just have to know your decals so you know when a glass-smooth surface and extra care is needed. Oh yes, I also got the rear registry codes too far right. The number three should only go a little over the round engine hatch, but it's all the way over it. Again, laziness struck and I left it like that (I also didn't feel like re-positioning the decals when I got them to settle down)
Now, I hope a flat coat (or two) will blend in the gloss areas and the rest of the model. Then, it's weathering time.
Btw, I also made a start with the tracks. Following a black primer coat, I've applied a thin coat of burnt umber acrylic paint (vallejo) so far.
mark197205
England - East Midlands, United Kingdom
Joined: November 10, 2003
KitMaker: 1,593 posts
Armorama: 1,465 posts
Joined: November 10, 2003
KitMaker: 1,593 posts
Armorama: 1,465 posts
Posted: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 - 10:09 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I finally had a chance to do some work on my M8. I finished up the construction of the interior and did some of the detail painting.
I hope to get the main construction finished today and start on some weathering. I still haven't decided on what to do for German markings yet but I have a couple of ideas. My goal is to be finished with this kit by next weekend.
Thanks for looking,
HARV
Looking good Harv, looking forward to the finished article.
mark197205
England - East Midlands, United Kingdom
Joined: November 10, 2003
KitMaker: 1,593 posts
Armorama: 1,465 posts
Joined: November 10, 2003
KitMaker: 1,593 posts
Armorama: 1,465 posts
Posted: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 - 12:56 PM UTC
Quoted Text
My build's coming along nicely, although I'm not so sure anymore if I can finish it and have the article published in time for the feature competition. Anyway, I'm not rushing with it, if it takes more time, then it will. The article's in the works as well, I'll be submitting it when I'm done.
Decals are now on.
The turret roundels are from a Kuivalainen decal sheet. From what I know, there has been only roundel sheets released in several scales so far. It's bit of a pity, since these are top-notch. Just like decals should be.
Too bad I can't say the same for the wiking-decal registry codes. They came from their T-34 sheet. Since the codes I needed weren't included (in fact, the whole sheet covered T-34/76's), I had to do some cutting to come up with the right numbers. According to my references (That museum vehicle again. which of course can be all wrong, but this is built after that! ) I also removed the periods and modified number 2's as well. 3's in the decal sheet where of the wrong style (round tops, while my references show sharp angled tops), but I left them as they were, since the only way of fixing them would have been painting all new numbers (and the difference isn't that grand).
But that's not what was wrong with them.
What was is they resembled InScale and academy decals (although less so). They looked good and quite thin on the sheet, but they turned out to be stiff and silvered somewhat. The stiffness didn't matter because the codes went on flat surfaces, but silvering is always a nuisance. (The spots where the decals went on the hull and turret where of same gloss, and the roundels went on flawlessly) Several applications of micro-sol and slicing the decals over trapped air got them to settle down adequately. I guess you just have to know your decals so you know when a glass-smooth surface and extra care is needed. Oh yes, I also got the rear registry codes too far right. The number three should only go a little over the round engine hatch, but it's all the way over it. Again, laziness struck and I left it like that (I also didn't feel like re-positioning the decals when I got them to settle down)
Now, I hope a flat coat (or two) will blend in the gloss areas and the rest of the model. Then, it's weathering time.
Btw, I also made a start with the tracks. Following a black primer coat, I've applied a thin coat of burnt umber acrylic paint (vallejo) so far.
Almost there now Eetu, looking really good, cant wait for the finished vehicle.
WARLORD
Associate Editor
Warszawa, Poland
Joined: April 23, 2003
KitMaker: 1,923 posts
Armorama: 868 posts
Joined: April 23, 2003
KitMaker: 1,923 posts
Armorama: 868 posts
Posted: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 - 10:28 PM UTC
I hope it's not too late but I think many of you will find this site useful:
Beutepanzer
Beutepanzer
mark197205
England - East Midlands, United Kingdom
Joined: November 10, 2003
KitMaker: 1,593 posts
Armorama: 1,465 posts
Joined: November 10, 2003
KitMaker: 1,593 posts
Armorama: 1,465 posts
Posted: Wednesday, September 26, 2007 - 07:30 AM UTC
I already have it Marcin but it is a great site.
Jamesite
United Kingdom
Joined: December 05, 2006
KitMaker: 2,208 posts
Armorama: 2,152 posts
Joined: December 05, 2006
KitMaker: 2,208 posts
Armorama: 2,152 posts
Posted: Wednesday, September 26, 2007 - 08:47 PM UTC
The very source of inspiration for my own build and many more to come I imagine!
James
Posted: Friday, September 28, 2007 - 07:37 AM UTC
I put the finishing touches on the Tamiya M8 Armored Car yesterday that I built for this campaign. I didn't build it as I first imagined that I would. I had a specific picture that I was going by but I changed my mind after I got started.
I combined a few pictures that I had seen when I built mine. The one that I used the most still showed all of the US markings along with the German crosses. I went along the same lines however I decided not to add the US stars imagining that the crew had painted over them to eliminate them as aiming points for German gunners. As usual I didn't do much along the lines of weathering. That is a skill that I need to work on. So most of my stuff looks fresh from the car wash!!
The kit went together very well and I have no complaints about it at all. I am thinking that I would like to purchase the Tamiya M20 kit as well.
So this is my official, and only, entry for this campaign.
Thanks for the campaign Mark (mark197205).
HARV
I combined a few pictures that I had seen when I built mine. The one that I used the most still showed all of the US markings along with the German crosses. I went along the same lines however I decided not to add the US stars imagining that the crew had painted over them to eliminate them as aiming points for German gunners. As usual I didn't do much along the lines of weathering. That is a skill that I need to work on. So most of my stuff looks fresh from the car wash!!
The kit went together very well and I have no complaints about it at all. I am thinking that I would like to purchase the Tamiya M20 kit as well.
So this is my official, and only, entry for this campaign.
Thanks for the campaign Mark (mark197205).
HARV
Emeritus
Uusimaa, Finland
Joined: March 30, 2004
KitMaker: 2,845 posts
Armorama: 808 posts
Joined: March 30, 2004
KitMaker: 2,845 posts
Armorama: 808 posts
Posted: Friday, September 28, 2007 - 08:41 PM UTC
Nice-looking M8 you got there. I don't remember seeing one in German markings before.
Are you planning to add weathering, paint chips etc?
On my T-34, the tracks are now ready to be installed, yesterday I removed the liquid mask from the gluing surfaces on the end of the track lenghts and painted the guide teeth that are visible through the holes in the drive wheels. I also applied a flat coat over the decals.
I forgot to post this here on time, but here it is anyway. This is how the tracks look now, after a drybrushing with a dark metallic mix.
I'll apply pastels when they're on.
Are you planning to add weathering, paint chips etc?
On my T-34, the tracks are now ready to be installed, yesterday I removed the liquid mask from the gluing surfaces on the end of the track lenghts and painted the guide teeth that are visible through the holes in the drive wheels. I also applied a flat coat over the decals.
I forgot to post this here on time, but here it is anyway. This is how the tracks look now, after a drybrushing with a dark metallic mix.
I'll apply pastels when they're on.
Posted: Saturday, September 29, 2007 - 12:41 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Nice-looking M8 you got there. I don't remember seeing one in German markings before.
Are you planning to add weathering, paint chips etc?
Thanks Eetu, I appreciate the kind words. If you go to the following link you will see several M8s under the German flag.
http://beute.pz1.ru/index.htm
I may do some weathering and add some scratches and chips later on. I mainly wanted to finish it up by this weekend. I finished up two campaigns this weekend so that I would be ready to start on the White-Washed campaign on October 1st. If I do some updates I will post some pictures here.
Thanks again,
HARV
Emeritus
Uusimaa, Finland
Joined: March 30, 2004
KitMaker: 2,845 posts
Armorama: 808 posts
Joined: March 30, 2004
KitMaker: 2,845 posts
Armorama: 808 posts
Posted: Sunday, September 30, 2007 - 04:48 AM UTC
Okay, I'm almost done here.
I just glued on the tracks.
The other side I attached yesterday. They went on well, I got the lenght almost spot on when I assembled the tracks those couple of years ago.
Unfortunately the same didn't apply on this side. The tracks were about 2mm too short, so I had to clamp the upper track lenght to gain some more lenght.
After having the clamps on overnight, they still weren't perfect, but at least the gap is gone, leaving just two looser joints in the track. (upper lenght to drive and idler wheel, see the pic)
I airbrushed a flat coat over the decals.
The turret roundels performed flawlessly, showing zero silvering.
Too bad the same didn't apply to the wiking-decal registry codes in the hull.
Typical. There's only one brand of decals available (at least here in Finland) for a certain subject, and they just have to perform badly. (Like Inscale for aircraft, I've never got them to work well. Fortunately techmod came out with their Finnish decal sheets!)
Well, there's a bison decals sheet for T-34/85's with one Finnish option and Decalcomaniacs' universal Finnish tank sheets, but I haven't seen those here.
I suspect touching-up the registry codes with a brush would only make it worse (hand-brushing xtracrylics makes a much darker finish). That darker area around them is not the gloss coat not being fully coated by clear flat, but micro sol that managed to get into a non-gloss area. I don't know if I should cover the decals and try to blend in the areas, or should I hope weathering to do the trick?
Btw, notice the wild swings of color tones in my pics, taken under different lights and camera setttings.
I just glued on the tracks.
The other side I attached yesterday. They went on well, I got the lenght almost spot on when I assembled the tracks those couple of years ago.
Unfortunately the same didn't apply on this side. The tracks were about 2mm too short, so I had to clamp the upper track lenght to gain some more lenght.
After having the clamps on overnight, they still weren't perfect, but at least the gap is gone, leaving just two looser joints in the track. (upper lenght to drive and idler wheel, see the pic)
I airbrushed a flat coat over the decals.
The turret roundels performed flawlessly, showing zero silvering.
Too bad the same didn't apply to the wiking-decal registry codes in the hull.
Typical. There's only one brand of decals available (at least here in Finland) for a certain subject, and they just have to perform badly. (Like Inscale for aircraft, I've never got them to work well. Fortunately techmod came out with their Finnish decal sheets!)
Well, there's a bison decals sheet for T-34/85's with one Finnish option and Decalcomaniacs' universal Finnish tank sheets, but I haven't seen those here.
I suspect touching-up the registry codes with a brush would only make it worse (hand-brushing xtracrylics makes a much darker finish). That darker area around them is not the gloss coat not being fully coated by clear flat, but micro sol that managed to get into a non-gloss area. I don't know if I should cover the decals and try to blend in the areas, or should I hope weathering to do the trick?
Btw, notice the wild swings of color tones in my pics, taken under different lights and camera setttings.
emroglan
Istanbul, Turkey / Türkçe
Joined: December 16, 2004
KitMaker: 1,163 posts
Armorama: 842 posts
Joined: December 16, 2004
KitMaker: 1,163 posts
Armorama: 842 posts
Posted: Sunday, September 30, 2007 - 06:29 AM UTC
Hi Eetu!
First thing I could suggest for the silvered decals would be an easy brush touch-up. Too bad you ruled that out.
Second and a riskier option could be acetone. It works on old Tamiya decals if you work carefully. You dip an ear-cleaning rod with cotton in acetone, then carefully touch the silvered areas. Theoretically, the acetone will dissolve the carrier film which causes the silvering while leaving the printed on numbers intact. CAUTION: This method also runs the risk of dissolving the decal altogether, even worse, botch up your paintjob by dissolving the paint as well. I recommend trying little quantities and extra attention if you want to use acetone.
Third option might be an airbrush touch up. It would have worked if the decals in question were large insignias, but since they are series of numbers/letters, using an airbrush might be out of question unless you are SuperModeler Also, I wouldn't try to paint over them, if they have silvered already, chances are that the texture of the decals will be visible even if you paint over them. Scraping them off could work better.
Whatever you do, go for it!
First thing I could suggest for the silvered decals would be an easy brush touch-up. Too bad you ruled that out.
Second and a riskier option could be acetone. It works on old Tamiya decals if you work carefully. You dip an ear-cleaning rod with cotton in acetone, then carefully touch the silvered areas. Theoretically, the acetone will dissolve the carrier film which causes the silvering while leaving the printed on numbers intact. CAUTION: This method also runs the risk of dissolving the decal altogether, even worse, botch up your paintjob by dissolving the paint as well. I recommend trying little quantities and extra attention if you want to use acetone.
Third option might be an airbrush touch up. It would have worked if the decals in question were large insignias, but since they are series of numbers/letters, using an airbrush might be out of question unless you are SuperModeler Also, I wouldn't try to paint over them, if they have silvered already, chances are that the texture of the decals will be visible even if you paint over them. Scraping them off could work better.
Whatever you do, go for it!
Emeritus
Uusimaa, Finland
Joined: March 30, 2004
KitMaker: 2,845 posts
Armorama: 808 posts
Joined: March 30, 2004
KitMaker: 2,845 posts
Armorama: 808 posts
Posted: Sunday, September 30, 2007 - 08:58 AM UTC
Another typicality: Good advice surfaces only after you have done something so it can't be used.
That acetone trick could have been useful, but I already flat coated the decals...
Touching-up by airbrushing would be only possible if I could make masks for the texts, but if were able to do that, I'd have sprayed the codes on using home-made stencils in the first place instead of struggling with inferior decals.
Heck, I really need to get some decalcomaniac sheets.
I guess I'll just have to live with them, since hiding the silvering with weathering is all but out of the question, because the codes are located pretty high on the hull and I'm not going for a soaked-in-mud appearance anyway.
That acetone trick could have been useful, but I already flat coated the decals...
Touching-up by airbrushing would be only possible if I could make masks for the texts, but if were able to do that, I'd have sprayed the codes on using home-made stencils in the first place instead of struggling with inferior decals.
Heck, I really need to get some decalcomaniac sheets.
I guess I'll just have to live with them, since hiding the silvering with weathering is all but out of the question, because the codes are located pretty high on the hull and I'm not going for a soaked-in-mud appearance anyway.
mark197205
England - East Midlands, United Kingdom
Joined: November 10, 2003
KitMaker: 1,593 posts
Armorama: 1,465 posts
Joined: November 10, 2003
KitMaker: 1,593 posts
Armorama: 1,465 posts
Posted: Monday, October 01, 2007 - 12:04 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I put the finishing touches on the Tamiya M8 Armored Car yesterday that I built for this campaign. I didn't build it as I first imagined that I would. I had a specific picture that I was going by but I changed my mind after I got started.
I combined a few pictures that I had seen when I built mine. The one that I used the most still showed all of the US markings along with the German crosses. I went along the same lines however I decided not to add the US stars imagining that the crew had painted over them to eliminate them as aiming points for German gunners. As usual I didn't do much along the lines of weathering. That is a skill that I need to work on. So most of my stuff looks fresh from the car wash!!
The kit went together very well and I have no complaints about it at all. I am thinking that I would like to purchase the Tamiya M20 kit as well.
So this is my official, and only, entry for this campaign.
Thanks for the campaign Mark (mark197205).
HARV
My pleasure Harv, its been great having you along for this what is my first run campaign.
The M8 looks real good, just like its ready for a visit from a General!
Emeritus
Uusimaa, Finland
Joined: March 30, 2004
KitMaker: 2,845 posts
Armorama: 808 posts
Joined: March 30, 2004
KitMaker: 2,845 posts
Armorama: 808 posts
Posted: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 - 06:24 PM UTC
For a change, here's some more progress on my T-34.
Here's the hul after some paint chipping:
After that, I applied a subtle rust-colored wash using lifecolor's pre-thinned weathering fluids. I was mainly going for a livelier finish instead of a weather-beaten rusted look.
It's time for pastels soon.
Here's the hul after some paint chipping:
After that, I applied a subtle rust-colored wash using lifecolor's pre-thinned weathering fluids. I was mainly going for a livelier finish instead of a weather-beaten rusted look.
It's time for pastels soon.
mark197205
England - East Midlands, United Kingdom
Joined: November 10, 2003
KitMaker: 1,593 posts
Armorama: 1,465 posts
Joined: November 10, 2003
KitMaker: 1,593 posts
Armorama: 1,465 posts
Posted: Thursday, October 04, 2007 - 12:51 AM UTC
Hi Eetu, tough call on the serial number decals, I have to say the tracks and subtle rust streaks look excellent to me.
WARLORD
Associate Editor
Warszawa, Poland
Joined: April 23, 2003
KitMaker: 1,923 posts
Armorama: 868 posts
Joined: April 23, 2003
KitMaker: 1,923 posts
Armorama: 868 posts
Posted: Friday, October 05, 2007 - 02:37 AM UTC
Progress shots of my KV-1:
Most assembly work has been done. Commander's coupola and hatches will be attached after painting. I added lifting lugs (I hope it's correct word and I won't offend anyone) as seen on the pics, weld seem on turret and supply rack in the rear plate (a bit diffirent from the one on the pic)
Most assembly work has been done. Commander's coupola and hatches will be attached after painting. I added lifting lugs (I hope it's correct word and I won't offend anyone) as seen on the pics, weld seem on turret and supply rack in the rear plate (a bit diffirent from the one on the pic)
mark197205
England - East Midlands, United Kingdom
Joined: November 10, 2003
KitMaker: 1,593 posts
Armorama: 1,465 posts
Joined: November 10, 2003
KitMaker: 1,593 posts
Armorama: 1,465 posts
Posted: Saturday, October 06, 2007 - 02:35 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Progress shots of my KV-1:
Most assembly work has been done. Commander's coupola and hatches will be attached after painting. I added lifting lugs (I hope it's correct word and I won't offend anyone) as seen on the pics, weld seem on turret and supply rack in the rear plate (a bit diffirent from the one on the pic)
Looking good so far Marcin, have not long picked up this kit myself.
Emeritus
Uusimaa, Finland
Joined: March 30, 2004
KitMaker: 2,845 posts
Armorama: 808 posts
Joined: March 30, 2004
KitMaker: 2,845 posts
Armorama: 808 posts
Posted: Sunday, October 07, 2007 - 07:33 AM UTC
Silvering begone!
I just couldn't stand looking at that silvering, so I mixed up some paint, grabbed a small brush and touched-up the fouled areas.
I made the paint mix fit in by first making several small samples of paint to determine the most correct ratio of green and black. Starting from 2 parts (=drops) of green and 1 part black, then adding green one drop at a time, taking a sample on a piece of cardboard from each step.
The closest was 5 parts green to 1 part black.
I made a few errors while touching-up, so I had to do some touching-up with the white codes as well. The result isn't as sharp as the decals originally, but a lot better than having the decals silver.
After that, I sprayed a coat of flat varnish over the decals.
mark197205
England - East Midlands, United Kingdom
Joined: November 10, 2003
KitMaker: 1,593 posts
Armorama: 1,465 posts
Joined: November 10, 2003
KitMaker: 1,593 posts
Armorama: 1,465 posts
Posted: Sunday, October 07, 2007 - 11:58 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Silvering begone!
I just couldn't stand looking at that silvering, so I mixed up some paint, grabbed a small brush and touched-up the fouled areas.
I made the paint mix fit in by first making several small samples of paint to determine the most correct ratio of green and black. Starting from 2 parts (=drops) of green and 1 part black, then adding green one drop at a time, taking a sample on a piece of cardboard from each step.
The closest was 5 parts green to 1 part black.
I made a few errors while touching-up, so I had to do some touching-up with the white codes as well. The result isn't as sharp as the decals originally, but a lot better than having the decals silver.
After that, I sprayed a coat of flat varnish over the decals.
Excellent touching up there Eetu, looks much better now.
emroglan
Istanbul, Turkey / Türkçe
Joined: December 16, 2004
KitMaker: 1,163 posts
Armorama: 842 posts
Joined: December 16, 2004
KitMaker: 1,163 posts
Armorama: 842 posts
Posted: Monday, October 08, 2007 - 01:11 AM UTC
Eetu, you stated good advice was too late, but I guess you did it anyway I don't think it could be corrected better than this anyway. Plus, your little touch-up with the white letters/numbers even made them look more hand painted, hence more realistic.
WARLORD
Associate Editor
Warszawa, Poland
Joined: April 23, 2003
KitMaker: 1,923 posts
Armorama: 868 posts
Joined: April 23, 2003
KitMaker: 1,923 posts
Armorama: 868 posts
Posted: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 - 02:32 AM UTC
KV-1 after basic painting. Some touch ups (commander's coupola f.i.)need to be done. To be honest I'm not happy with the result.
mark197205
England - East Midlands, United Kingdom
Joined: November 10, 2003
KitMaker: 1,593 posts
Armorama: 1,465 posts
Joined: November 10, 2003
KitMaker: 1,593 posts
Armorama: 1,465 posts
Posted: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 - 09:05 AM UTC
Quoted Text
KV-1 after basic painting. Some touch ups (commander's coupola f.i.)need to be done. To be honest I'm not happy with the result.
Hey Marcin, it looks ok to me, what arent you happy about?