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Rusting, Chipping and Weathering

the damp interior
Up until now this has moved along really well. I will be finishing up the first round of pigment application and getting ready to move on to the next stage of weathering.

In wanting to get some part put together here, I turned my attention to the interior floor. This will be a damp, moldy and neglected area. Since this is covered...for the most part, it will be much darker and well, damp!

I need to first lay down some substance. I chose to start with AK's Dark Earth pigment. Using some White Spirits to dampen the corners, I began to stipple the pigment in to the corners and where I think things like dirt, rotting leaves and other junk would build up.



Next I wanted to add some of the moldy coloring I believe would be seen in this damp area. Using AK Dark Slimy Green, I applied this in the corners where you would see some ponding from water.



This was quickly followed up by some AK Slimy Green Light.



After applying the Slimy Greens, a quick light wash down with White Spirits to soften the looks. This is done with a "humid" brush. Dip the brush and quickly dab 1 to 2 times on an absorbent towel and run the brush lightly over you work.



The very next application was with some AK Wet Effects. I will have another coat going on here and there, before I am done.



After a little drying time, the chassis is starting to come alive.




I have made some headway on the hood as well. Using the same process I used on the exterior of the cab to reveal the rusty color beneath.



Here we will take one last look at the cab after the first round of chipping and before the next stage of weathering.







I think at this point I could say "OK, I'm done"....nope!!! There is still plenty to go. The next stage will bring out the faded look the exterior would get from UV (Ultra Violet) rays from sitting in the sun.

Just before I get started on the next stage, I laid down a real thin layer of clear coat to yet again protect the layer below. This ever so slightly modifies the colors of the rusting as I did not spray a lot. This next stage will lighten things a bit.

Here is, yet again, another layer of hair spray/chipping fluids. This will allow me to manipulate the fading I am applying next.



After allowing this to dry I choose some Tamiya Deck Tan and Light Sea Grey. I mixed these colors to 15% tan, 15% grey, with about 70% Thinner. So this is almost to wash capacity but will still react like paint.



You can see how the underlying paint and rusting immediately lightens in tone.





Allowing this to cure for the night, I will be chipping and scrubbing very little of this away, to make room for more weathering layers. Building up layers is key to the depth of the weathering. I will be getting back to this in later updates.

About the Author

About Todd Michalak (TRM5150)
FROM: MASSACHUSETTS, UNITED STATES

I am building what I like, when I like and how I like it; having fun doing it. I have been building and finishing models on and off my whole life but the past ten years things really exploded. Just about anything goes when it comes to hitting the bench, but wrecked armor, rusted hulks, ships or ...


Comments

I know it's been a while since the last post here, but I just wanted to let you know that I still refer people to your tutorial Todd and they have yet to give anything but very positive feedback on it regardless of what hobby discipline they come from.
JUN 25, 2013 - 05:08 AM
Thank you very much Jeremy! I am happy to see it useful for some. Most of the techniques are really simply to use they just take some practice to get the feel down. Even better, is when someone takes something and adapts their own way, maybe even coming up with newer techniques or just improving on the old ones. Circle of learning!! Thanks again!
JUN 25, 2013 - 07:55 AM
any idea how to use AK Interactive Heavy chipping?
AUG 29, 2014 - 08:28 PM
Hello Richard, AK's Heavy Chipping Fluid works pretty much the same as other chipping medium layers: 1 - Make sure your base paint has been sealed with a clear coat. 2 - Spray on the chipping medium (Vallejo, AK, AMMO, Hair Spray...)and allow to dry (should only take a few minutes) 3 - Spray top coat of acrylic paint you desire to chip and allow to dry...not cure! 10 -15 minutes...enough to clean up your AB. 4 - Using a damp (Not Wet) with water brush apply a light single coat over the area you want to start in...typically no the entire model at once. 5 - Use any number of tools to aid in the removal of top coat paint to the desired effect you want; paint brushes, toothpicks, cotton swabs, etc It is best to test things out on an old shelf queen until you get the hand of how to obtain different looks.
AUG 29, 2014 - 09:38 PM
Thank's
SEP 01, 2014 - 07:24 PM
I just spent a thoroughly enjoyable hour reading through this. Highly informative and well documented with word and pictures. J
OCT 25, 2014 - 04:35 AM
I seemed to miss your post. Ace in Sept Richard. ..thanks Thank you J. ..glad you enjoyed it!
OCT 25, 2014 - 05:35 AM
I realize this is an old thread. I was referred to it by a friend. There are several missing images on the first page. Is there a way you can edit the article and add the missing images?
AUG 15, 2015 - 11:22 PM
Thanks for the heads up on this Ivan! Not too sure what happened here as the pictures are loaded to the site's servers...I will dig a bit and see what I can turn up to correct his! Cheers, T
AUG 15, 2015 - 11:46 PM
Thanks Todd. Cool beans !
AUG 16, 2015 - 07:00 AM