1/72 BR-52 Kreigslok and Krupp k5(e) Leopold
United States
Joined: November 25, 2007
KitMaker: 96 posts
Armorama: 89 posts
Posted: Monday, March 09, 2009 - 02:18 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Jeff- looks good! thanks for the post. what color did you paint the gravel rail bed? i will paint it some form of buff because there will be so much grey on the kits already. also, how did you paint the ties? i still haven't found/devised a very efficeint way.
thanks Rob- the whole thing together is around 34 inches- barely half an inch shorter than the shelf i'll put it on in my room. both kits came with 4 track sections but i am only using 6 which is just enough.
The gravel was painted with Tamiya buff. The ties were hand painted Tamiya's dark red/brown. I then applied a dark black wash which helped blend the ties to the roadbed and hide and goofs from hand painting the ties (I didn't worry about getting a real sharp edge between the buff and the ties).
-G-
New Jersey, United States
Joined: November 28, 2007
KitMaker: 381 posts
Armorama: 321 posts
Posted: Tuesday, March 10, 2009 - 09:52 AM UTC
thanks Bruce, i can't wait to see it either hahaha! track season just started at my high school, so now work is limited to weekends only.
Jeff- i might wind up using that method. i was thinking spray the gravel and then use microsol company's liquid mask to paint the gravel around each tie, yes all 4215843532945 trillion of them, tape off the rest and spray the ties brown n then follow up with washes n stuff. now very time efficient, but i hope it might work
United States Military Academy Class of 2015
New Jersey, United States
Joined: November 28, 2007
KitMaker: 381 posts
Armorama: 321 posts
Posted: Friday, March 20, 2009 - 10:15 AM UTC
United States Military Academy Class of 2015
New Jersey, United States
Joined: November 28, 2007
KitMaker: 381 posts
Armorama: 321 posts
Posted: Friday, March 20, 2009 - 10:24 AM UTC
United States Military Academy Class of 2015
New Jersey, United States
Joined: November 28, 2007
KitMaker: 381 posts
Armorama: 321 posts
Posted: Friday, March 20, 2009 - 10:31 AM UTC
United States Military Academy Class of 2015
New Jersey, United States
Joined: November 28, 2007
KitMaker: 381 posts
Armorama: 321 posts
Posted: Monday, April 13, 2009 - 01:08 PM UTC
United States Military Academy Class of 2015
Clare, Ireland
Joined: December 30, 2008
KitMaker: 952 posts
Armorama: 834 posts
Posted: Monday, April 13, 2009 - 09:10 PM UTC
Here it´s coming! Nice work, Andrew, and hard one too, I´d say. Keep posting.
Libor
www.mymodelplace.eu
www.LZmodels.com
Utrecht, Netherlands
Joined: July 14, 2003
KitMaker: 285 posts
Armorama: 238 posts
Posted: Wednesday, April 15, 2009 - 11:07 PM UTC
Very sharp painting. Keep up the good work and keep the pictures coming.
Regards,
Pascal
New Jersey, United States
Joined: November 28, 2007
KitMaker: 381 posts
Armorama: 321 posts
Posted: Friday, April 17, 2009 - 10:39 AM UTC
hi guys thanks for the comments. now that i'm getting into the weathering stages, i have a few questions.
1st, i read that there would hav been water spots in some places, especially around the water hatches on the tender. are water spots just actual puddles of water or are they discolored spots of base color and how could i make this affect??
2nd, i read there would be spilled sand around the sander box...but what is the sander box? is it that thing on top of the boiler that connects to the sand lines?
3rd, where is the steam generator that makes power for the lights etc?
4th, what are the safety poppet valves and where are they?
any answers/help are welcome!
United States Military Academy Class of 2015
Massachusetts, United States
Joined: November 07, 2008
KitMaker: 796 posts
Armorama: 763 posts
Posted: Friday, April 17, 2009 - 10:47 AM UTC
That is one cool looking camo scheme, wish I had the patience for all that masking. Top notch, can't wait to see both hitched together. Keep posting.
Rob
Scratchmod-The Art of Destruction
Clare, Ireland
Joined: December 30, 2008
KitMaker: 952 posts
Armorama: 834 posts
Posted: Friday, April 17, 2009 - 12:12 PM UTC
Hi Andrew,
For water spots I use liquid from Mig production, someone can use also gloss varnish, many guides can be found in model forums. Sand boxes are up on the sides of the boiler, like you have mentioned, steam generator on the top of the boiler just behind the cabin (with the pipe)
poppet valves on top of the cylindres
My English is too bad to explain that right, use this link to find more
steam engine cheers
Libor
www.mymodelplace.eu
www.LZmodels.com
New Jersey, United States
Joined: November 28, 2007
KitMaker: 381 posts
Armorama: 321 posts
Posted: Friday, April 17, 2009 - 12:44 PM UTC
thanks everyone!
libor, thanks for the info and the link. also don't worry about ur english, it's fine. way better than my french which iv been taking in school for years
United States Military Academy Class of 2015
Utrecht, Netherlands
Joined: July 14, 2003
KitMaker: 285 posts
Armorama: 238 posts
Posted: Saturday, April 18, 2009 - 05:08 AM UTC
Andrew,
Maybe this is a usefull link:
http://www.trainsahead.com/weathering_steam_locomotives.htm Watermarks/spots are cause by water drying and leaving behind white circles due to the minerals present in water (e.g. calcium).
Libor is right in all his answers except for one, I don't know the precise location, but the safety relief valves are located on top of the boiler, usually somewhere close in front of the driver cabin. I don't have any pictures present at the moment to determine the precise location.
They are placed high-up because when they pop they make an awfull lot of noice and could potentially cause hearing damage or even rupture eardrums.
They will never be located low (cylinder height), I know because I deal a lot with these types of valves in my daily job and I used to drive model steam trains (scale 1/6).
These valves are used to safeguard against overpressure in the boiler (If this is to short an explanation I'm happy to elaborate)
The cylinders release steam during driving but this is not a safety device but normal due to the way the cylinder and valving around it work.
Regards,
Pascal
Clare, Ireland
Joined: December 30, 2008
KitMaker: 952 posts
Armorama: 834 posts
Posted: Saturday, April 18, 2009 - 08:44 AM UTC
Hi Pascal,
I think I am even right about the poppet valves {that was the question}, if my dictionary is exact, what I suppose is. Valve — controls the supply of steam to the cylinders, timing is synchronised by the valve gear connect to the drivers. Steam locomotives can have slide valves, piston valves or poppet valves.
Safety valves, and you are right about them, are on top of the cylinder, those two valves between the steam generator and the steam dome {closer to the generator}. I hope this is better explanation now. Sometimes I find very hard to get the right word in English, if for example VALVE can be thousand different things.
Regards
Libor
www.mymodelplace.eu
www.LZmodels.com
Utrecht, Netherlands
Joined: July 14, 2003
KitMaker: 285 posts
Armorama: 238 posts
Posted: Saturday, April 18, 2009 - 07:04 PM UTC
Libor,
I thought it was a mix-up of words, becasue when safety valves go off they are said to "pop". But if the valves you describe are meant by this than I stand corrected and you are right.
And also the word safety is confusing here as I wrote above it is a normal operation and not a safety device. Are they not simply called popped valves, without "safety"? I'm not at home in the english wording for steam engine parts, my education was in Dutch.
Regards,
Pascal
New Jersey, United States
Joined: November 28, 2007
KitMaker: 381 posts
Armorama: 321 posts
Posted: Sunday, April 19, 2009 - 08:10 AM UTC
United States Military Academy Class of 2015
Clare, Ireland
Joined: December 30, 2008
KitMaker: 952 posts
Armorama: 834 posts
Posted: Monday, April 20, 2009 - 09:46 PM UTC
Good progress, Andrew,
its coming along. Looking for more
Libor
www.mymodelplace.eu
www.LZmodels.com
Croatia Hrvatska
Joined: November 17, 2007
KitMaker: 46 posts
Armorama: 39 posts
Posted: Thursday, April 23, 2009 - 04:05 AM UTC
Nice work so far...
One question didn't the diesel locomotives hull the morser and leopold??? I think i read it somewhere...or is it posible to steam locomotive hull morser/leopold....
New Jersey, United States
Joined: November 28, 2007
KitMaker: 381 posts
Armorama: 321 posts
Posted: Thursday, April 23, 2009 - 10:21 AM UTC
yep, diesel locomotives pulled them into and out of the tunnels where they were kept when the batteries were in use. steam locomotives were used to pull the bettery into position, like taking it from the krupp factory to france, or from france to italy or the ussr
United States Military Academy Class of 2015
Croatia Hrvatska
Joined: November 17, 2007
KitMaker: 46 posts
Armorama: 39 posts
Posted: Friday, April 24, 2009 - 09:43 AM UTC
Thx for the answer, i didn't know that...very usefull information...
New Jersey, United States
Joined: November 28, 2007
KitMaker: 381 posts
Armorama: 321 posts
Posted: Monday, April 27, 2009 - 05:23 AM UTC
i was thinking about how im gonna paint the railway bed. i was thinking maybe put buff and brown paint in the paint jar on my airbrush, but not mixed, so that when it sprays, the color wont b so monotonous, but broken up and different in places. would that even work? thanks
United States Military Academy Class of 2015
New Jersey, United States
Joined: November 28, 2007
KitMaker: 381 posts
Armorama: 321 posts
Posted: Tuesday, August 04, 2009 - 10:16 AM UTC
hi guys im just starting to continue work again after maybe 2 months off, one of which i spent in africa doing community service work.
just a little progress. i started water marks on the tender, but i'm not sure about them. are they too white? too many? not enough? too small? too big?
here's just a shot of the boiler. the whole thing just looks too light and clean. i really want a cruddy beat up locomotive and tender but im stuck as what else to do, beides adding soot on top from the smoke stack,
btw im going to repaint the undercarriage of the locomotive and tender black. i dont like the brown color
United States Military Academy Class of 2015
England - South West, United Kingdom
Joined: January 06, 2007
KitMaker: 3,661 posts
Armorama: 2,764 posts
Posted: Tuesday, August 04, 2009 - 11:43 AM UTC
noooo! the brown looks great
real good work so far
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Clare, Ireland
Joined: December 30, 2008
KitMaker: 952 posts
Armorama: 834 posts
Posted: Saturday, August 08, 2009 - 10:13 AM UTC
Good to see you back, Andrew. The ballast is most in various shades of grey. Some brown colour will be located near the tracks, that is actually the rust falling down. Hope that can help.
Good way is to paint lighter and darker spots here and there until the whole thing is painted.
Cheers
Libor
www.mymodelplace.eu
www.LZmodels.com
New Jersey, United States
Joined: November 28, 2007
KitMaker: 381 posts
Armorama: 321 posts
Posted: Sunday, August 09, 2009 - 01:43 PM UTC
thanks James, and Libor. here's a pic of the gun with it's decals- i did them 2 months ago- and some washes which i have been working on the past couple of days. i painted the ballast a tannish color 2 months ago and i almost finished hand painting the ties so i dont think i'll be repainting it grey- maybe just many, many filters and washes. more pictures soon.
United States Military Academy Class of 2015