Jerry,
Got to say it fella, been watching your build from a far, stunning build so far, your attention to detail is outstanding.
I'm watching with interest and looking forward to seeing more.
Regards
Dan
Hosted by Darren Baker
SdKfz251D/11 Fernsprch WIP
Dannyd
Joined: March 27, 2007
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Posted: Wednesday, May 22, 2013 - 09:01 AM UTC
jrutman
Joined: April 10, 2011
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Posted: Wednesday, May 22, 2013 - 12:12 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Jerry,
Got to say it fella, been watching your build from a far, stunning build so far, your attention to detail is outstanding.
I'm watching with interest and looking forward to seeing more.
Regards
Dan
Thanks a lot Dan,
I think it will go a bit quicker now after all of the interior fiddly bits are pretty much done.
J
jrutman
Joined: April 10, 2011
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Posted: Thursday, May 23, 2013 - 01:48 AM UTC
As always,I deeply appreciate any feedback given here. So now I ask,what is the most inspired you have been by a "muddy" treatment on running gear. If you could give me a linky it would be very helpful as I plan to continue with my re-introduction into the armor building world by shamelessly copying the best mud technique I find?? I don't need to create major mud,just the kind you would see after driving through a shallow roadside ditch??
J
J
yeahwiggie
Joined: March 24, 2006
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Posted: Thursday, May 23, 2013 - 02:13 AM UTC
I mixed wallfiller with paint and water, applied that liberally all over the runninggear and when dry gave it a coat of clear gloss.
Can't find the thread on Armorama, so I'll slip in a link the the article on my blog; Sd.Kfz. 251/2
Can't find the thread on Armorama, so I'll slip in a link the the article on my blog; Sd.Kfz. 251/2
jrutman
Joined: April 10, 2011
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Posted: Thursday, May 23, 2013 - 03:16 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I mixed wallfiller with paint and water, applied that liberally all over the runninggear and when dry gave it a coat of clear gloss.
Can't find the thread on Armorama, so I'll slip in a link the the article on my blog; Sd.Kfz. 251/2
Hey Ron! That is a nice build of a mortar track and I do like that mud. I will shamfully copy some of it. Love the guy knocking the mud off his boots. Great,realistic touch.
My scene will be around Stoumont in Dec44,at the entrance to the park at Chateux Froidcour. The pics of that day are confusing but I think the roads were wet,not icy,as a result of the low cloud/mist that I remember so well from central Europe. I do assume that the road side ditches had water in them however,or at least,were very very soft and muddy.
BTW,I have a conversion for the mortar track almost done. Think it's worth releasing?
J
retiredyank
Joined: June 29, 2009
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Posted: Thursday, May 23, 2013 - 03:18 AM UTC
I use Rust-o-Leum stone texture spray paint. The brown is very convincing.
Or...
For this effect, I mixed a little clear acrylic with brown enamel. It takes some time to dry, but stays glossy and hardens like a rock.
Or...
For this effect, I mixed a little clear acrylic with brown enamel. It takes some time to dry, but stays glossy and hardens like a rock.
panzerconor
Joined: February 08, 2012
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Posted: Thursday, May 23, 2013 - 03:27 AM UTC
Jerry, I can't say enough about this stuff: http://www.ak-interactive-usa.com/weathering.html That's all I use for mud/earth effects now.
This is a winter 1/48 Tiger, but the technique with the mud and earth effects is the same for any scale. http://www.migjimenez.blogspot.com/2012/01/tiger-i-148-winter-camo-part-5-end.html
I've shamelessly copied that for a while now, and it works great.
-Conor
This is a winter 1/48 Tiger, but the technique with the mud and earth effects is the same for any scale. http://www.migjimenez.blogspot.com/2012/01/tiger-i-148-winter-camo-part-5-end.html
I've shamelessly copied that for a while now, and it works great.
-Conor
yeahwiggie
Joined: March 24, 2006
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Posted: Thursday, May 23, 2013 - 03:52 AM UTC
Copy all you want!
No shame in that.
No shame in that.
jrutman
Joined: April 10, 2011
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Posted: Thursday, May 23, 2013 - 05:42 AM UTC
Vielen dank,meinen brudern.
Alles hat mir gefallen.
J
Alles hat mir gefallen.
J
jrutman
Joined: April 10, 2011
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Posted: Friday, May 24, 2013 - 03:17 AM UTC
OK,next challenge that I face. Any tips on how to get these smart tracks onto the wheels properly?
J
J
panzerconor
Joined: February 08, 2012
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Posted: Friday, May 24, 2013 - 04:13 AM UTC
Quoted Text
OK,next challenge that I face. Any tips on how to get these smart tracks onto the wheels properly?
J
I usually dodge that problem with DS tracks
But, when I use the individual link ones I usually get all but one of the wheels on and painted, dry fit the last one (the drive wheel), and glue them together alone the wheels, so they dry in the shape they'll be in when all is said and done. I do it with half on top, half on the bottom, that way I can get them off easily to paint them after. But there's many many ways to do that, and probably better ones too.retiredyank
Joined: June 29, 2009
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Posted: Friday, May 24, 2013 - 08:00 AM UTC
Quoted Text
OK,next challenge that I face. Any tips on how to get these smart tracks onto the wheels properly?
J
I start by assembling the links around the sprockets. I then proceed to build the upper run, attached to the ones that go around the sprocket. The lower run I build separately. Paint, weather, close upper and lower runs.
panzerconor
Joined: February 08, 2012
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Posted: Friday, May 24, 2013 - 09:06 AM UTC
I would listen to Matt, that sounds a lot easier.
yeahwiggie
Joined: March 24, 2006
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Posted: Friday, May 24, 2013 - 07:35 PM UTC
If you are carefull you can assemble your links, working as a real set of tracks would. By doing that you can lay them across wheels, idlers and sprockets like the real deal, too.
First assemble the rough amount of links you need. Carefully click each link into the previous one, add a very small droplet of glue into the positioning hole of the trackpad, add the pas and do it all over again. Move the links from time to time, while the glue sets. If you used to much glue or have spilled some, you will prevent it from setting and glueing the links together.
When all is done, paint the tracks and wheels, add the wheels, add the tracks, use some glue to fix the final links in place.
This is the procedure I follow when using Dragontracks. I have not yet built an AFV-version though.
First assemble the rough amount of links you need. Carefully click each link into the previous one, add a very small droplet of glue into the positioning hole of the trackpad, add the pas and do it all over again. Move the links from time to time, while the glue sets. If you used to much glue or have spilled some, you will prevent it from setting and glueing the links together.
When all is done, paint the tracks and wheels, add the wheels, add the tracks, use some glue to fix the final links in place.
This is the procedure I follow when using Dragontracks. I have not yet built an AFV-version though.
retiredyank
Joined: June 29, 2009
KitMaker: 11,610 posts
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Posted: Friday, May 24, 2013 - 07:42 PM UTC
Quoted Text
If you are carefull you can assemble your links, working as a real set of tracks would. By doing that you can lay them across wheels, idlers and sprockets like the real deal, too.
First assemble the rough amount of links you need. Carefully click each link into the previous one, add a very small droplet of glue into the positioning hole of the trackpad, add the pas and do it all over again. Move the links from time to time, while the glue sets. If you used to much glue or have spilled some, you will prevent it from setting and glueing the links together.
When all is done, paint the tracks and wheels, add the wheels, add the tracks, use some glue to fix the final links in place.
This is the procedure I follow when using Dragontracks. I have not yet built an AFV-version though.
When the glue hardens, they will no longer be "workable". You are describing the process of using plastic cement.
yeahwiggie
Joined: March 24, 2006
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Posted: Friday, May 24, 2013 - 10:03 PM UTC
Offcourse plastic cement, like revell's or tamiya's.
What do you use??
The glue/cement should not even get in between the trackjoints in the first place.
What do you use??
The glue/cement should not even get in between the trackjoints in the first place.
retiredyank
Joined: June 29, 2009
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Posted: Friday, May 24, 2013 - 10:11 PM UTC
I use extra thin Tamiya or MM plastic cement. Why does it matter if the glue gets in between the tracks? Mine turn out fine if I trace each side of the joint.
yeahwiggie
Joined: March 24, 2006
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Posted: Saturday, May 25, 2013 - 12:49 AM UTC
Well, that's obvious. If the glue gets into the tracks they'll be glued solid. If it doesn't, you can ply it around the wheels befor you glue them solid, making it easier to paint, adjust their length and position.
retiredyank
Joined: June 29, 2009
KitMaker: 11,610 posts
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Posted: Saturday, May 25, 2013 - 12:53 AM UTC
Getting in between the links doesn't make them any less pliable.
jrutman
Joined: April 10, 2011
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Posted: Saturday, May 25, 2013 - 02:16 AM UTC
Thanks guys,I will try to take this advice and work it into my program. I took this pic to show the best I could do with the fit between the top and bottom of the hull. You can see the big gap to the left of the fender. I used a PE fender so the gap is bigger. It will get filled with"mud" as I think the gap would allow mud to get flung up through the hole? Anyway,that's my story and I'm sticking to it. I started adding the details to the top of the fender as well. The ax will be missing as well as the Bosch headlight. The members of Peipers battlegroup were instructed to remove the lights and cover the license plates and unit emblems with paint or mud for security reasons.
The old man waits for the war to be over so he can get that wheel for his farm wagon.
And yeah,I broke off the lifting hook when I tried to thin it out with my scalple. Oi!!
J
The old man waits for the war to be over so he can get that wheel for his farm wagon.
And yeah,I broke off the lifting hook when I tried to thin it out with my scalple. Oi!!
J
yeahwiggie
Joined: March 24, 2006
KitMaker: 2,093 posts
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Posted: Saturday, May 25, 2013 - 02:31 AM UTC
That is a bog hole! But I think you can get away with plastering it with mud.
Love the old man! self made? If not, what company is he from?
Love the old man! self made? If not, what company is he from?
jrutman
Joined: April 10, 2011
KitMaker: 7,941 posts
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Posted: Saturday, May 25, 2013 - 02:54 AM UTC
Quoted Text
That is a bog hole! But I think you can get away with plastering it with mud.
Love the old man! self made? If not, what company is he from?
Thanks Wig,
The alte mann was from Miniart I think or if not,Master Box. He was built right from the old box but I did add a beard with cotton and did some undercutting. I buy number 11 exacto blades by the large boxful as I use so many but it looks a lot better when you do and plastic figs are a lot cheaper than resin ones. I always try to go low tech.
J
jrutman
Joined: April 10, 2011
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Posted: Saturday, May 25, 2013 - 04:41 AM UTC
I rechecked my boxes and saw the old man is from Master Box for sure.
Tried my hand at some weathering. Dunno if it's as good as some I've seen here but passable maybe?
Tried my hand at some weathering. Dunno if it's as good as some I've seen here but passable maybe?
panzerconor
Joined: February 08, 2012
KitMaker: 1,271 posts
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Posted: Saturday, May 25, 2013 - 04:58 AM UTC
Jerry that old man seems to pop up in all of your threads hahaha. Is that the Dragon or AFV 251? Because mine's going to have some fit issues in the same spot yours is. Weathering looks great as well, sir.
-Conor
-Conor
Villiers
Joined: April 04, 2010
KitMaker: 50 posts
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Posted: Saturday, May 25, 2013 - 05:04 AM UTC
Taking the scale of the model into account, I believe that it is spot on. I like the oil/grease streaks. Just the right amount.
Regards,
Villiers
Regards,
Villiers
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