Armor/AFV: Axis - WWII
Armor and ground forces of the Axis forces during World War II.
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Chipping mythical
m4sherman
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Posted: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 - 01:20 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Too bad we can't get clearer, higher resolution period photos......




I agree. That is a very good shot of a Panther A command tank that has seen extensive action. The zimmerit is chipped, and its paint has taken a beating. If only there were digial cameras, and all the things we take for granted today, available back then.
kevinb120
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Posted: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 - 01:23 PM UTC
It's a good thing that panther still has the one side skirt to protect its flanks
m4sherman
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Posted: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 - 04:20 PM UTC


I found a decent picture of a Panther G, taken near Hotton during the Bulge.There are many hits from small arms on the skirts still on the tank, and the paint around the hits has chipped off. There are also some good scratch marks where the missing skirts scraped as they were lost. More hits on the cleaning rod holder, more chips, and it is hard to tell, but there seems to be more hits in the turret side above the GI's head. There is a very nice chip where the cupola hatch hits the open stop. The largest identifiable chip is near the double hit just above the head shadow. All over the hull top, and up on the turret, is mud from the crew climbing in, or perhaps from incoming fire.

In the shadows from the branches 2/3 of the way back is a very dark blotch that does not appear to match the branches. There is a similar dark area in the rear of the turret. Other than these areas, the paint looks like it is in good shape, just dirty, but we can't see the top where the crew climbed on and off.
Tordenskiold
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Posted: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 - 09:18 PM UTC
TBH I think you guys are talking about two different issues:

1. Chipping from "normal" usage of the vehicle, like crewmen climbing in and out.

2. Chipping from battle damage, like bullet holes etc...

Of course the latter is normal and can be found in many photos. However, the first I still need to see as a common thing.

DAK vehicles, winter white and zimmerit will chip heavily, as those where applied in hast and of poor quality.

Good ol' german factory paint and primer filled with lead will stay on forever - as seen from the many tanks recovered from swamps all over eastern Europe.
sptifire
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Posted: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 - 10:05 PM UTC
I served for eight years in the United States Army including Operation Desert Storm. During that time I served as an M-1 Abrams tank platoon leader, company executive officer and battalion intelligence officer. Does paint chip? Of course it does, but nearly to the extent depicted by some famous modelers. It seems to me that chipping with rust is now being applied to almost every edge and hatch on a model. While limited chipping in the right places can look very realistic. Too much chipping reminds me of an overly dry brushed model which was very common ten years ago.

To add to the problem, many modelers are confusing paint chipping with the fact that on older vehicles, that have been painted numerous times, paint tends to flake off in large patches. When I was a tank platoon leader, some of my M-1 Tanks probable had eight or nine coats of paint on them. My tanks were painted forest green, but under the forest green was a coat of desert yellow from the NTC and under that was more forest green. When we went to the field the newer paint would flake off sometimes in large patches exposing the older coats of paint
taylgr
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Posted: Wednesday, August 27, 2008 - 01:34 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Lots of pictures, lots of great input, I'm glad this thread is being debated on facts and not turned into a "did - did not - did - did not" fest.

Still, most pictures of chipping are of allied vehicles. Oh one thing, I had to chuckle about the Imperial Japanese aircraft, these are known to loose paint from flying alone as the quality of the paint was horrible.

But I challenge anyone to post pics of greatly chipped Tiger-Bs or Panther-Gs.

Somehow there also seems to be an idea that it is about weathering in general, that's not the point at all.

Of course German late war armour also got mucked and dirty and greasy. But nothing to the extent as shown on models, like the posted Jagdpanther. That is simply grossly overdone.

Does a nick in paint happen? sure. But the chance of getting through Rot Oxid primer down to bare metal is highly unlikely, that is really REALLY tough primer, as shown by recovered vehicles like the recent STUG IV which shows no wear and a pristine cover in Rot Oxid.

A few things to remember:

- Field applied camo (Rot Braun and Oliv Grün) were subject of how the paste was thinned and to which degree by the field company applying it. Thusly, the quality varied and therefore, these 2 colors could scratch and reveal the underlying Dunkel Gelb basecoat.

- Early DAK was painted desert color over Schwarz Grau and this paint DID chip/flake easily. Hence, mucho chipo on those. Later DAK vehicles were standard painted in desert color and this paint was of much better quality.

- Mud splatters can be misconceived as chips

- Late war German Armour didn't last long enough to get all beaten up as shown in models like the Jagdpanther here

- Modern service vehicles cannot be used as benchmark due to their long service life. The amount of wear over time is due to repeated scoffing/rotating/twisting and simple use.

- Japanese aircraft..........

- Comparing jeeps to tanks.........

- Museum vehicles to wartime vehicles..............

Can one find pics of chipped German armour? Sure.
Can one find many pics of chipped German armour? Sure
Can these pics be used as proof that German armour chipped as a rule? No way!



Herbert:

Glad you got a chuckle out of the japanese aircraft pic - but if the paint was so crappy - why don't they all look like that ? - Anyway:

Where to begin - King tigers and panther g's you say, alright -

even before they left the factory they got scratches




and in service:














and good ol' 332 at Aberdeen - before they gave her the crap paint job



I know it's a Jagdtiger but the point is the same:



And Panther g's you say:















and a Tiger 1 (and before you complain that this is a museum piece - this REALLY is how hatches wear)





And on the issue of no-one in their right mind going into action with road wheels a different colour :



there seems to be an assumption on the part of some amateur historians that vehicles in a combat theatre would not challenge camouflage integrity in order to ensure mission completion - this argument of different colours on vehicles being an "aiming point" is nothing by comparison to ensuring that the mission gets done -
I can tell you from personal experience that if my company commander told me to repair a damaged road wheel on my track and the only one available was an all white one from a UN instructional chassis, and it was the only way to get operational - I wouldn't bat an eyelid putting an all white wheel on and getting back into the fight !!!



Greg


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Posted: Wednesday, August 27, 2008 - 04:45 AM UTC
Here's something that says that barrel blackening is mythical too.
linkname
Bratushka
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Posted: Wednesday, August 27, 2008 - 05:17 AM UTC

Quoted Text

TBH I think you guys are talking about two different issues:

1. Chipping from "normal" usage of the vehicle, like crewmen climbing in and out.

2. Chipping from battle damage, like bullet holes etc...

Of course the latter is normal and can be found in many photos. However, the first I still need to see as a common thing.

DAK vehicles, winter white and zimmerit will chip heavily, as those where applied in hast and of poor quality.

Good ol' german factory paint and primer filled with lead will stay on forever- as seen from the many tanks recovered from swamps all over eastern Europe.



What more proof could you possibly need? How many more pictures need posted? Did you even bother reading through the thread? There were no conditional terms presented by the side that argues that chipping is fiction. It was claimed it didn't happen at all. Such mythical properties have been attributed to the paint it's almost as if the vehicles didn't need armor; just a coat of "Good 'ol German factory paint and primer" appplied over some thin wood, or maybe canvas, would have been all crews needed to protect them! Hell, they should have just painted their uniforms and they would have been really impervious to harm! Just as you said "Good ol' german factory paint and primer filled with lead will stay on forever" which has been disproved time and again in this thread, I would also challenge your second premise "as seen from the many tanks recovered from swamps all over eastern Europe."

I saw the Panther recovered from the river in Poland that was featured on the Tank Overhaul series on the Military Channel here. While it may have been largely structurally intact, the hull anyway, I can assure you the paint was in pretty sorry condition which after 56 years (at the time it was recovered) underwater one would expect. Try doing a search for images of it and you'll see your statement about the paint is as incorrect as could be. It was also said on that series that all the other tanks that were lost the same way -in that river- were recovered and scrapped shortly after WWII. Most all of the Axis equipment met similar fates as almost immediately the Allies set up depots to collect vehicles. It would be interesting to know how many surviving examples of various WWII tanks, both Axis and Allied are left in the world. I know the numbers of that era's aircraft are very small. There may have been a small number of tanks found in the decades since WWII but I bet the numbers are very small.
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Posted: Wednesday, August 27, 2008 - 05:24 AM UTC
The question about replacement parts was if there were parts still in primer put on tanks. We established that it does happen, at least once. Using dark grey wheels on a tank painted yellow was very common during the transition period, and in Afrika.

The pictures of the Tiger I turret in the open air display do not show the same type of wear as those of the picture of the top of the Tiger II turret, there is a big difference. I am not sure if the Tiger II one was taken of a tank on display, or one after the battle, but the wear on the paint is not all that bad. Actually, it shows little wear when you take into account that the crew would be climbing in there with hob nailed boots.

The next picture, looking into the drivers hatch, is a better example of worn paint with dirt from the crews boots. It is the really the best example of the entire group. Are there any other pictures of this tank to show the over-all condition?

I do have a question about the Aberdeen Tiger II. I am asking because I am not a big Tiger II nut. Is the paint in the color picture original? The paint sceme looks odd to me.
Bratushka
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Posted: Wednesday, August 27, 2008 - 06:06 AM UTC
There was a post in this thread i replied to where I mentioned photos of solid white tanks in Tigers in Combat Vol 2. This was in response to another post on whitewashing tanks and how it always seemed done in splotches. I was looking at armor videos on YouTube earlier today and came across this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GLP7Vb0akhA&feature=related

There is a solid white German tank in this video and it sure looks good! I think it's a Panzerkampfwagen III. If this is wrong, please post correction.
taylgr
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Posted: Wednesday, August 27, 2008 - 07:57 AM UTC

Quoted Text

The question about replacement parts was if there were parts still in primer put on tanks. We established that it does happen, at least once. Using dark grey wheels on a tank painted yellow was very common during the transition period, and in Afrika.

The pictures of the Tiger I turret in the open air display do not show the same type of wear as those of the picture of the top of the Tiger II turret, there is a big difference. I am not sure if the Tiger II one was taken of a tank on display, or one after the battle, but the wear on the paint is not all that bad. Actually, it shows little wear when you take into account that the crew would be climbing in there with hob nailed boots.

The next picture, looking into the drivers hatch, is a better example of worn paint with dirt from the crews boots. It is the really the best example of the entire group. Are there any other pictures of this tank to show the over-all condition?

I do have a question about the Aberdeen Tiger II. I am asking because I am not a big Tiger II nut. Is the paint in the color picture original? The paint sceme looks odd to me.



Randall

The scheme that old 332 is showm in is entirely original - I have another couple of grainy colour shots of her in this condition, and more importantly, quite a few black and white ones of her after capture by the allies and in europe - some of them show her being loaded onto tank transporters (presumably for movement back to the states) - careful examination of those b/w pics confirms that the colour shots are indeed her original finish

Greg
taylgr
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Posted: Wednesday, August 27, 2008 - 08:04 AM UTC

Quoted Text

The question about replacement parts was if there were parts still in primer put on tanks. We established that it does happen, at least once. Using dark grey wheels on a tank painted yellow was very common during the transition period, and in Afrika.

The pictures of the Tiger I turret in the open air display do not show the same type of wear as those of the picture of the top of the Tiger II turret, there is a big difference. I am not sure if the Tiger II one was taken of a tank on display, or one after the battle, but the wear on the paint is not all that bad. Actually, it shows little wear when you take into account that the crew would be climbing in there with hob nailed boots.

The next picture, looking into the drivers hatch, is a better example of worn paint with dirt from the crews boots. It is the really the best example of the entire group. Are there any other pictures of this tank to show the over-all condition?

I do have a question about the Aberdeen Tiger II. I am asking because I am not a big Tiger II nut. Is the paint in the color picture original? The paint sceme looks odd to me.



If the original question was about parts in primer red, how where we able to decipher from black and white photos which ones were in the red oxide finish, as opposed to say, grey - how do I make the distinction that the Marder's wheel is in fact grey? and what colour are the ones on this Stug?




Greg
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Posted: Wednesday, August 27, 2008 - 08:10 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Here's something that says that barrel blackening is mythical too.
linkname



Scott

Got to agree mate, can't see any evidence anywhere to pull this myth "out of the fire" (so to speak)



Greg
taylgr
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Posted: Wednesday, August 27, 2008 - 08:18 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Lots of pictures, lots of great input, I'm glad this thread is being debated on facts and not turned into a "did - did not - did - did not" fest.

Still, most pictures of chipping are of allied vehicles. Oh one thing, I had to chuckle about the Imperial Japanese aircraft, these are known to loose paint from flying alone as the quality of the paint was horrible.

But I challenge anyone to post pics of greatly chipped Tiger-Bs or Panther-Gs.

Somehow there also seems to be an idea that it is about weathering in general, that's not the point at all.

Of course German late war armour also got mucked and dirty and greasy. But nothing to the extent as shown on models, like the posted Jagdpanther. That is simply grossly overdone.

Does a nick in paint happen? sure. But the chance of getting through Rot Oxid primer down to bare metal is highly unlikely, that is really REALLY tough primer, as shown by recovered vehicles like the recent STUG IV which shows no wear and a pristine cover in Rot Oxid.

A few things to remember:

- Field applied camo (Rot Braun and Oliv Grün) were subject of how the paste was thinned and to which degree by the field company applying it. Thusly, the quality varied and therefore, these 2 colors could scratch and reveal the underlying Dunkel Gelb basecoat.

- Early DAK was painted desert color over Schwarz Grau and this paint DID chip/flake easily. Hence, mucho chipo on those. Later DAK vehicles were standard painted in desert color and this paint was of much better quality.

- Mud splatters can be misconceived as chips

- Late war German Armour didn't last long enough to get all beaten up as shown in models like the Jagdpanther here

- Modern service vehicles cannot be used as benchmark due to their long service life. The amount of wear over time is due to repeated scoffing/rotating/twisting and simple use.

- Japanese aircraft..........

- Comparing jeeps to tanks.........

- Museum vehicles to wartime vehicles..............

Can one find pics of chipped German armour? Sure.
Can one find many pics of chipped German armour? Sure
Can these pics be used as proof that German armour chipped as a rule? No way!



Herbert

Just looking to clarify a point here - are you suggesting that the scratching and chipping on the museum Hetzer has been added by museum staff, for PERCEIVED realism purposes?

Greg
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Posted: Wednesday, August 27, 2008 - 09:50 AM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

The question about replacement parts was if there were parts still in primer put on tanks. We established that it does happen, at least once. Using dark grey wheels on a tank painted yellow was very common during the transition period, and in Afrika.

The pictures of the Tiger I turret in the open air display do not show the same type of wear as those of the picture of the top of the Tiger II turret, there is a big difference. I am not sure if the Tiger II one was taken of a tank on display, or one after the battle, but the wear on the paint is not all that bad. Actually, it shows little wear when you take into account that the crew would be climbing in there with hob nailed boots.

The next picture, looking into the drivers hatch, is a better example of worn paint with dirt from the crews boots. It is the really the best example of the entire group. Are there any other pictures of this tank to show the over-all condition?

I do have a question about the Aberdeen Tiger II. I am asking because I am not a big Tiger II nut. Is the paint in the color picture original? The paint sceme looks odd to me.



If the original question was about parts in primer red, how where we able to decipher from black and white photos which ones were in the red oxide finish, as opposed to say, grey - how do I make the distinction that the Marder's wheel is in fact grey? and what colour are the ones on this Stug?




Greg



Someone asked if primer painted parts were put on a tank. An original color picture was presented to show it has happened. The one on the Marder is probably dark grey. I based this conclusion on the similarity of the wheel color to the cross on the hull front. In black and white reds tend to look paler.

I suspect that the wheels on that Stug IV were painted in Testors Glossy Midnight Black.

If the Hetzer is an original combat capture, in original paint, what did it look like 60 years ago, say, May 10, 1945?

By the way, I know that there were chips on vehicles, the question remaining is, how big were they, typically, on a tank that saw barely a months service. I put a picture of a Panther G with chips in the skirts from bullets. The chips were not all that large, and there are no visible big paint chips, down to bare steel, visible on the hull or turret.
m4sherman
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Posted: Wednesday, August 27, 2008 - 10:04 AM UTC
Randall

The scheme that old 332 is showm in is entirely original - I have another couple of grainy colour shots of her in this condition, and more importantly, quite a few black and white ones of her after capture by the allies and in europe - some of them show her being loaded onto tank transporters (presumably for movement back to the states) - careful examination of those b/w pics confirms that the colour shots are indeed her original finish

Greg[/quote]

Thank you. There was a pamplet put out about this tanks recovery. It was extra difficult because the salvage crew had to use the lighter transporter instead of the M26.

To get a feel about what Herbert is objecting to, compare the paint on the Tiger II to some of the chipped models. It would not be a fair comparison to the JagdPanther as that tank is white washed. Even after a being shipped all the way to the US, the paint on the hull and fenders is in remarkable shape. No 3 inch (76.2mm) chucks of paint chipped off to bare metal everywhere.

I will bet that the hull and turret top, where people actually walked, is very worn and chipped.
taylgr
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Posted: Wednesday, August 27, 2008 - 10:59 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Randall

The scheme that old 332 is showm in is entirely original - I have another couple of grainy colour shots of her in this condition, and more importantly, quite a few black and white ones of her after capture by the allies and in europe - some of them show her being loaded onto tank transporters (presumably for movement back to the states) - careful examination of those b/w pics confirms that the colour shots are indeed her original finish

Greg



Thank you. There was a pamplet put out about this tanks recovery. It was extra difficult because the salvage crew had to use the lighter transporter instead of the M26.

To get a feel about what Herbert is objecting to, compare the paint on the Tiger II to some of the chipped models. It would not be a fair comparison to the JagdPanther as that tank is white washed. Even after a being shipped all the way to the US, the paint on the hull and fenders is in remarkable shape. No 3 inch (76.2mm) chucks of paint chipped off to bare metal everywhere.

I will bet that the hull and turret top, where people actually walked, is very worn and chipped. [/quote]

Randall

Mate, you are absolutely correct - 332 is in brilliant shape, and I'm guessing that this was one of the reasons that this chassis was picked by the GI's for recovery -no doubt that the upper wearing surface is probably chipped and scratched pretty badly - but the rest of her has not escaped scot free either

- scratches along the bottom of the mud guards - all the fixing points on the hull sides rubbed back to bare metal (again as I say I have other pics of this chassis) and as I pointed out in an earlier post you really need "close up pics" to get a good fair dinkum look at the wear and chip patterns - it doesn't mean that it's not there - unless the pics are close up sometimes it's just not readily visible

I'll' give you an example - most earlier F4 Phantom jets had an amazing ammount of stencilling over almost every access panel on the aircraft - some decal manufacturers produced a sheet of these stencils for use on various scale models, very commendable, problem was if you looked at most photos of real F4's you couldn't actually see the stencilling unless you were actually standing next to the airframe - giving rise to the fact that someone could start a post with a heading ("F4 Phantom stencils - is it a myth") - yes they exist - has the poster ever seen a close up photo showing eveidence ? perhaps not.

Most 32nd scale Spitfire models have little "walk here" stencils for use on the wingwalk lines - I haven't tried it - but I'm pretty sure if I scaled those stencil decals up by a scale of
63.55 times (to make them 1:1) on a copier - I'll bet they would be significantly larger than the "real" size - this is what I meant before about manufactureres (and modellers themselves) having to accentuate details to offset the effect of "scale"

Greg

Sorry got that wrong didn't I scale it up by 31.25 times was what I should have said
taylgr
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Posted: Wednesday, August 27, 2008 - 11:44 AM UTC

Quoted Text

The question about replacement parts was if there were parts still in primer put on tanks. We established that it does happen, at least once. Using dark grey wheels on a tank painted yellow was very common during the transition period, and in Afrika.

The pictures of the Tiger I turret in the open air display do not show the same type of wear as those of the picture of the top of the Tiger II turret, there is a big difference. I am not sure if the Tiger II one was taken of a tank on display, or one after the battle, but the wear on the paint is not all that bad. Actually, it shows little wear when you take into account that the crew would be climbing in there with hob nailed boots.

The next picture, looking into the drivers hatch, is a better example of worn paint with dirt from the crews boots. It is the really the best example of the entire group. Are there any other pictures of this tank to show the over-all condition?

I do have a question about the Aberdeen Tiger II. I am asking because I am not a big Tiger II nut. Is the paint in the color picture original? The paint sceme looks odd to me.



Randall,

Here are some other views in the sequence you were asking about - I thinks there are some others of this chassis as well - I'll keep looking:



Greg
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Posted: Wednesday, August 27, 2008 - 11:59 AM UTC
[/quote]

Randall

Mate, you are absolutely correct - 332 is in brilliant shape, and I'm guessing that this was one of the reasons that this chassis was picked by the GI's for recovery -no doubt that the upper wearing surface is probably chipped and scratched pretty badly - but the rest of her has not escaped scot free either

- scratches along the bottom of the mud guards - all the fixing points on the hull sides rubbed back to bare metal (again as I say I have other pics of this chassis) and as I pointed out in an earlier post you really need "close up pics" to get a good fair dinkum look at the wear and chip patterns - it doesn't mean that it's not there - unless the pics are close up sometimes it's just not readily visible

Greg
[/quote]

I have no problem with the chipping technique. A chip here and there is to be expected, over sized for scale, no problem. I may not agree with Herbert on his conclusions, but I can see what he is objecting to, and why. I put up that Panther pic because the chipping from the bullets is very visible, at a good distance. I have the feeling that this is the proof that is being asked for, but on a larger scale.

A few of the models that I have seen have chips that would scale out to 6 inches, or 150mm, in multiple places on the hull sides and turret. That kind of damage is unlikely on a new tank with limited service. On those same tanks, there was less chipping where you would expect it to be, where the crew walked and climbed in and out.
taylgr
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Posted: Wednesday, August 27, 2008 - 12:17 PM UTC

Quoted Text




Randall

Mate, you are absolutely correct - 332 is in brilliant shape, and I'm guessing that this was one of the reasons that this chassis was picked by the GI's for recovery -no doubt that the upper wearing surface is probably chipped and scratched pretty badly - but the rest of her has not escaped scot free either

- scratches along the bottom of the mud guards - all the fixing points on the hull sides rubbed back to bare metal (again as I say I have other pics of this chassis) and as I pointed out in an earlier post you really need "close up pics" to get a good fair dinkum look at the wear and chip patterns - it doesn't mean that it's not there - unless the pics are close up sometimes it's just not readily visible

Greg
[/quote]

I have no problem with the chipping technique. A chip here and there is to be expected, over sized for scale, no problem. I may not agree with Herbert on his conclusions, but I can see what he is objecting to, and why. I put up that Panther pic because the chipping from the bullets is very visible, at a good distance. I have the feeling that this is the proof that is being asked for, but on a larger scale.

A few of the models that I have seen have chips that would scale out to 6 inches, or 150mm, in multiple places on the hull sides and turret. That kind of damage is unlikely on a new tank with limited service. On those same tanks, there was less chipping where you would expect it to be, where the crew walked and climbed in and out.[/quote]

Mate,

Couldn't agree more - just doing the numbers myself - If I'm doing this correctly -

If I assume that the smallest chip I would want to show on my MODEL tank was 3mm long x 3mm wide (that's probably the smallest my poor 50+ year old eyes would let me go down to) - that would scale out to a REAL WORLD scratch 105mm long by 105mm wide and thats probably realistically about it - you would probably have to argue that Herbert's not off the mark in suggesting that any scratch or chip less than 105mm2 wouldn't be replicatable(?) at 1/35th scale ACCURATELY - does that exclude most of the ones on the pics that i've posted - probably not - BUT that does not deny the fact that scratches and chips occur on real AFV's - the assertion that they are a myth is flawed - they do occur!!

Should they be replicated on a model below a min. size? - who's to say - I don't mind seeing a subtle use of it myself on a model - but I also am not going to CRITICISE someone if they want to do it - this hobby shouldn't really come down to mm's - I think that's going to far, to criticise someone for their artistic interpretation of an AFV is a bit over the top - nothing more I can add to this post, I think

If it feels good - do it

Greg
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Posted: Wednesday, August 27, 2008 - 01:09 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text




Randall

Mate, you are absolutely correct - 332 is in brilliant shape, and I'm guessing that this was one of the reasons that this chassis was picked by the GI's for recovery -no doubt that the upper wearing surface is probably chipped and scratched pretty badly - but the rest of her has not escaped scot free either

- scratches along the bottom of the mud guards - all the fixing points on the hull sides rubbed back to bare metal (again as I say I have other pics of this chassis) and as I pointed out in an earlier post you really need "close up pics" to get a good fair dinkum look at the wear and chip patterns - it doesn't mean that it's not there - unless the pics are close up sometimes it's just not readily visible

Greg



I have no problem with the chipping technique. A chip here and there is to be expected, over sized for scale, no problem. I may not agree with Herbert on his conclusions, but I can see what he is objecting to, and why. I put up that Panther pic because the chipping from the bullets is very visible, at a good distance. I have the feeling that this is the proof that is being asked for, but on a larger scale.

A few of the models that I have seen have chips that would scale out to 6 inches, or 150mm, in multiple places on the hull sides and turret. That kind of damage is unlikely on a new tank with limited service. On those same tanks, there was less chipping where you would expect it to be, where the crew walked and climbed in and out.[/quote]

Mate,

Couldn't agree more - just doing the numbers myself - If I'm doing this correctly -

If I assume that the smallest chip I would want to show on my MODEL tank was 3mm long x 3mm wide (that's probably the smallest my poor 50+ year old eyes would let me go down to) - that would scale out to a REAL WORLD scratch 105mm long by 105mm wide and thats probably realistically about it - you would probably have to argue that Herbert's not off the mark in suggesting that any scratch or chip less than 105mm2 wouldn't be replicatable(?) at 1/35th scale ACCURATELY - does that exclude most of the ones on the pics that i've posted - probably not - BUT that does not deny the fact that scratches and chips occur on real AFV's - the assertion that they are a myth is flawed - they do occur!!

Should they be replicated on a model below a min. size? - who's to say - I don't mind seeing a subtle use of it myself on a model - but I also am not going to CRITICISE someone if they want to do it - this hobby shouldn't really come down to mm's - I think that's going to far, to criticise someone for their artistic interpretation of an AFV is a bit over the top - nothing more I can add to this post, I think

If it feels good - do it

Greg[/quote]

Sadly the hobby often gets down to mm's. I have been critiqued that I did not add .020 inch thickness to a model years ago because it was to narrow. I can't measure that without calipers myself. As for artistic over real, I'm in the middle ground. Whatever makes you happy, give it a go. I normally look past the paint at the model under it anyhow. If that is well done, then I will compliment the builder. Your eyes are about as good as mine. I am very thankfull for the new wave of already opened gun barrels! What took them so darn long!
kevinb120
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Posted: Thursday, August 28, 2008 - 02:19 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

Here's something that says that barrel blackening is mythical too.
linkname



Scott

Got to agree mate, can't see any evidence anywhere to pull this myth "out of the fire" (so to speak)





Greg



Heh a photo that illustrates perfectly BOTH a clean muzzle AND unquestionable chipping. And its clearly not a captured piece of equipment which also looks to be in very good shape-maybe some of the cleanest in-the-field panthers I've ever seen.
Grumpyoldman
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Posted: Thursday, August 28, 2008 - 03:29 PM UTC
I have certainly enjoyed reading this thread.
I'm not going to enter the discussion, as I believe there was some chipping, and I also believe that sometimes it's way over done on models, (yep even guilty of doing it myself!) but hopefully it continues along the harmonious lines it's been doing.
Great bunch of photos posted by everyone.
lespauljames
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Posted: Thursday, August 28, 2008 - 11:09 PM UTC

Quoted Text

I have certainly enjoyed reading this thread.
I'm not going to enter the discussion,



!!! you have allready entered
Braille
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Posted: Friday, August 29, 2008 - 07:56 AM UTC
People,

I remeber reading something that Simon Barns over at "On The Way" website posted sometime ago and would like to to share it here with all of you because he touched upon a very important point that is relevent to this topic - "Information!" Posted on 03 May 2006
http://www.onthewaymodels.com/whatsnew.htm

Herb, this is one of the very best post that I have had the pleasure of reading! I have learned a great deal from those that have actually been around armored vehicles and also from those that have not! Personally, I have not had the opportunity of actually being around an armored vehicle but does that mean that I will not be able to render a credible finish on a late war German armored vheicle?

I enjoy coming here to view, read, share and post about armor modeling and have learned a great deal more that I would have ever been able to on my own because of people just like you and all of those that have taken the time to post and comment and not be the least bit afraid to take the blows from anyone because of thier personal point of view on whatever subject may be at hand.

"Thanks!" to you Herb, and to all!
Happy modeling - Eddy

P.S. Please note that the pics that Greg Taylor has kindle posted depicting the late Tiger I close -up
shots of the turret top showing the wear and tear of the finish is noteworthy in that the current trend to
weathering rust and rust stains on or near welds on late war German armor is incorrect as the
armored plates, fittings, and associated components were welded using stainless steel bead
as can be clearly seen on these pics.