Hi Ralph,
I am converting the DML PzIII Ausf. F Smart Kit in Ausf.G. I will do this before DML brings out a “Ausf. G” as “Smart-Kit”, as they have done right now with the “Ausf. H”.
I have collected over the last year a lot of Pz III “Imperial Series” escpecially the “Ausf. H” and now DML is bringing out the renewed version....
As a note from an “ongoing” rivet counter (yes I catch myself to become one more and more): The Armourscale mantlet is not the correct one for the Ausf. G/H, or for a retro-fit on E/F, because it has integrated the higher mantlet visor covers, introduced with the Ausf. J.
Same mistake has been done by DML with their new released “Ausf.H Smart-Kit”.
The covers used on G/H and to retro-fit the E/F-version were lower and have a different shape. Tank-workshop is offering the correct set, item Nr. TWS203
but as the covers are moulded in the Armourscale mantlet, I think its a challenge to change them.
You can canibalize the manlet from an DML Imperial series PzIII G/H Kit.
I will take the DML manlet from a DML Pz III “Ausf. J Initial version” Samrt-Kit, and will integrate it on the DML “F”. The DML mantlet has the visor covers as sinlge items, so they can easily be changed with the one from Tank-workshop.
Later on I will use the Armourscale mantlet for the “Ausf. J Initial version”.
Erich
Campaigns
Where Armorama group builds can be discussed, organized, and updates posted.
Where Armorama group builds can be discussed, organized, and updates posted.
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The Desert Fox
trex10
Upper Austria, Austria
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Posted: Thursday, April 14, 2011 - 04:15 AM UTC
Tojo72
North Carolina, United States
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Posted: Thursday, April 14, 2011 - 09:31 AM UTC
Good stuff Sal !!
zontar
Hawaii, United States
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Posted: Thursday, April 14, 2011 - 11:22 AM UTC
Sal: The dio looks awesome. Good choice of added figures. Where did you get the little cooker/stove? Is it part of a figure set or other aftermarket? Thanks.
Jeremy: I just might do the Kubel anyway. I don't think it has more than 20 pieces.
Ralph and G: thanks for the flesh out on the Primers. I'll see what we have and try one of them.
The 222 spent the night submerged in Windex, but it seems the Tamiya primer hasn't budged a bit, so tonight it gets the oven cleaner...
Happy Modelling, -zon
Jeremy: I just might do the Kubel anyway. I don't think it has more than 20 pieces.
Ralph and G: thanks for the flesh out on the Primers. I'll see what we have and try one of them.
The 222 spent the night submerged in Windex, but it seems the Tamiya primer hasn't budged a bit, so tonight it gets the oven cleaner...
Happy Modelling, -zon
vonHengest
Texas, United States
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Posted: Thursday, April 14, 2011 - 12:52 PM UTC
G: I haven't used anything from Plastikote in a long time, I'll have to give that a try as well.
Zon: Go for it!
Zon: Go for it!
Bigrip74
Texas, United States
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Posted: Thursday, April 14, 2011 - 04:21 PM UTC
trex10
Upper Austria, Austria
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Posted: Thursday, April 14, 2011 - 06:13 PM UTC
So beside the figure, which is actual in work, I think I am ready.
Whats your opinion ? (Beside the a little bit to bright pictures)
Note: I have tried to make the "desert dusting" as a result of my own experiences, after driving some thousands of kilometers trough the Sahara desert. So that means, concetration on "dusting" the model and not on "fading" and "chipping", even this looks more artistic. Because in reality, everything is covered by dust within short time, especially if you move a vehicle in the same area and climate conditions as the M13/40 has been used at this time.
Erich
Whats your opinion ? (Beside the a little bit to bright pictures)
Note: I have tried to make the "desert dusting" as a result of my own experiences, after driving some thousands of kilometers trough the Sahara desert. So that means, concetration on "dusting" the model and not on "fading" and "chipping", even this looks more artistic. Because in reality, everything is covered by dust within short time, especially if you move a vehicle in the same area and climate conditions as the M13/40 has been used at this time.
Erich
vonHengest
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Posted: Friday, April 15, 2011 - 04:09 AM UTC
Bob: Your build is looking clean, that part should be an easy fix to get on.
Erich: I like your approach with the weathering, it's looks overall realistic while still showing of the details. The pictures aren't too bright, you may want to try photographing your model in natural sunlight if your lighting is giving you problems. Look forward to seeing your figure
Keep up the great work everyone!
Erich: I like your approach with the weathering, it's looks overall realistic while still showing of the details. The pictures aren't too bright, you may want to try photographing your model in natural sunlight if your lighting is giving you problems. Look forward to seeing your figure
Keep up the great work everyone!
Bigrip74
Texas, United States
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Posted: Friday, April 15, 2011 - 07:51 AM UTC
Erich, what is your process for the dusty look?
Bob
Bob
zontar
Hawaii, United States
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Posted: Friday, April 15, 2011 - 08:12 AM UTC
Bob: nice clean build. Looking forward to paint.
Erich: the dusting effect worked really well.
Happy Modelling, -zon
Erich: the dusting effect worked really well.
Happy Modelling, -zon
ltb073
New York, United States
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Posted: Friday, April 15, 2011 - 02:01 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Sal: The dio looks awesome. Good choice of added figures. Where did you get the little cooker/stove? Is it part of a figure set or other aftermarket? Thanks.
Happy Modelling, -zon
Hey guys thanks for the comments.
Zon, the cooker stove came with the kit it also comes with a lizard and a dog.
@Erich, you M13/40 is looking good what figures are you putting with it
@ Bob, dido what Jeremy said, looking good. What type of camo pattern are you going to but on that guy
zontar
Hawaii, United States
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Posted: Friday, April 15, 2011 - 02:27 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextSal: The dio looks awesome. Good choice of added figures. Where did you get the little cooker/stove? Is it part of a figure set or other aftermarket? Thanks.
Happy Modelling, -zon
Hey guys thanks for the comments.
Zon, the cooker stove came with the kit it also comes with a lizard and a dog.
Sal: which kit? I looked at both the Tent Set and the Tiger, and they don't seem to include the other goodies.
Thanks, zon
Bigrip74
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Posted: Friday, April 15, 2011 - 02:53 PM UTC
trex10
Upper Austria, Austria
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Posted: Friday, April 15, 2011 - 05:49 PM UTC
Thanks all for your compliments.
Sal: I will use a German Afrika Korps figure from Tristar, basically sitting on a PzI, with a "Italian had" from Hornet.
Bob: I have copied the way of using pigments from Bill Plunk, whom I will thank by this way to share his kowledge with us and let me learn.
I mix different pigments in a small cup with tap water and brush them on the tank
Darker "Brick Dust and "Gulf war sand" around the lower hull, brighter pigments on the upper hull
Once dry, I "clean" the surface with a stiffer brush. Plan surfaces less pigments (because blown away by the wind); corners, edges, and especially the rear deck more "dust".
Note: Jerry cans ( same as tank filler caps) with Diesel are always full of dust around the fillers neck. In opposite to Gasoline (wich evaporate), Diesel, which is splashing beside while filling, is soaking the dust.
Thats even the reason why you should not follow most modellers style to create oil/grease strains, because every oily surface would be covered by dust within minutes, as you can see here (the guy in blue its me, checking my truck front suspension after a "dune wide jump" in the Lybian dune area, called Idhnan Uwbari):
Note "Clean" axle paint, but everywhere grease was coming out after greasing mechanical parts, totally covered by sand/dust
Dont even use "African Earth" as many modellers do for desert dust, because this pigment is in the desert reality Iron Oxide (or simply rust), which is very seldom in Lybia (and even in the North Sahara, I think I can tell you all the places where you will find it, and nearly no one is in the Western desert). "African earth" fits perfect for a vehicle used in Black Africa (Congo etc.) or Australia
The best desert dust copy in my eyes is "Beach sand", nearly 100% the dust of Nothern Lybia and South Tunisia (Mareth line for eg).
For your M13/40 "Aussis version": This M13 was from the very 1st production run, build in late 1940.
Means: No rectangular cover on the turret roof. No "mushroom" style cooling water expanse tank over the rear engine deck. Filler cap of the water expanse tank located a bit more forward
You should even try to use license plate with lower registration number (around 3000-3050). No license plate on front, because front license plates was introduced on Italian tanks from March 1941on
I could give you details, but I have to leave now for a 4 days business trip. But if you google M13/40 "pictures" you can easily find all the differences of the 1st M13/40 production run to update the Tamiya one (If you want).
Erich
Sal: I will use a German Afrika Korps figure from Tristar, basically sitting on a PzI, with a "Italian had" from Hornet.
Bob: I have copied the way of using pigments from Bill Plunk, whom I will thank by this way to share his kowledge with us and let me learn.
I mix different pigments in a small cup with tap water and brush them on the tank
Darker "Brick Dust and "Gulf war sand" around the lower hull, brighter pigments on the upper hull
Once dry, I "clean" the surface with a stiffer brush. Plan surfaces less pigments (because blown away by the wind); corners, edges, and especially the rear deck more "dust".
Note: Jerry cans ( same as tank filler caps) with Diesel are always full of dust around the fillers neck. In opposite to Gasoline (wich evaporate), Diesel, which is splashing beside while filling, is soaking the dust.
Thats even the reason why you should not follow most modellers style to create oil/grease strains, because every oily surface would be covered by dust within minutes, as you can see here (the guy in blue its me, checking my truck front suspension after a "dune wide jump" in the Lybian dune area, called Idhnan Uwbari):
Note "Clean" axle paint, but everywhere grease was coming out after greasing mechanical parts, totally covered by sand/dust
Dont even use "African Earth" as many modellers do for desert dust, because this pigment is in the desert reality Iron Oxide (or simply rust), which is very seldom in Lybia (and even in the North Sahara, I think I can tell you all the places where you will find it, and nearly no one is in the Western desert). "African earth" fits perfect for a vehicle used in Black Africa (Congo etc.) or Australia
The best desert dust copy in my eyes is "Beach sand", nearly 100% the dust of Nothern Lybia and South Tunisia (Mareth line for eg).
For your M13/40 "Aussis version": This M13 was from the very 1st production run, build in late 1940.
Means: No rectangular cover on the turret roof. No "mushroom" style cooling water expanse tank over the rear engine deck. Filler cap of the water expanse tank located a bit more forward
You should even try to use license plate with lower registration number (around 3000-3050). No license plate on front, because front license plates was introduced on Italian tanks from March 1941on
I could give you details, but I have to leave now for a 4 days business trip. But if you google M13/40 "pictures" you can easily find all the differences of the 1st M13/40 production run to update the Tamiya one (If you want).
Erich
Bigrip74
Texas, United States
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Posted: Friday, April 15, 2011 - 06:26 PM UTC
Erich, thank you for the tips.
Bob
Bob
zontar
Hawaii, United States
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Posted: Friday, April 15, 2011 - 06:39 PM UTC
Bob: looks like a fun camo scheme. Looking forward to seeing it.
Erich: Thanks for the tutorial on your dust application (and to Bill Plunk too!) Do you know how close Iraq would be to Libya from a dust color standpoint?
Happy Modelling, -zon
Erich: Thanks for the tutorial on your dust application (and to Bill Plunk too!) Do you know how close Iraq would be to Libya from a dust color standpoint?
Happy Modelling, -zon
edoardo
Milano, Italy
Joined: November 30, 2007
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Posted: Friday, April 15, 2011 - 07:43 PM UTC
hi Erich!
I like very much the outcome of your tank!
I think you are right on the chipping and rust side: no much wet in the desert to make metal rust.... but rust is soooo cool I can hardly make without some
keep up the wonderful job!
ciao
Edo
I like very much the outcome of your tank!
I think you are right on the chipping and rust side: no much wet in the desert to make metal rust.... but rust is soooo cool I can hardly make without some
keep up the wonderful job!
ciao
Edo
Posted: Saturday, April 16, 2011 - 03:38 PM UTC
Jeremy,
While on hols here in the States I picked up Tamiya's PaK40 & SdKfz 251 from HobbyLobby for a song (gotta love those 40% coupons!) so would like to join up. Trouble is I've already had a few days' start on the gun so cannot get a pic of it on the sprues. Is it still eligible? The 251 is still untouched...
And I did some homework - the Pak40 was arriving in theatre by late 42/early 43...
I can't post images til I get home from holiday at Easter. (Borrowing a PC at the moment!)
Tom
While on hols here in the States I picked up Tamiya's PaK40 & SdKfz 251 from HobbyLobby for a song (gotta love those 40% coupons!) so would like to join up. Trouble is I've already had a few days' start on the gun so cannot get a pic of it on the sprues. Is it still eligible? The 251 is still untouched...
And I did some homework - the Pak40 was arriving in theatre by late 42/early 43...
I can't post images til I get home from holiday at Easter. (Borrowing a PC at the moment!)
Tom
vonHengest
Texas, United States
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Posted: Saturday, April 16, 2011 - 07:46 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Jeremy,
While on hols here in the States I picked up Tamiya's PaK40 & SdKfz 251 from HobbyLobby for a song (gotta love those 40% coupons!) so would like to join up. Trouble is I've already had a few days' start on the gun so cannot get a pic of it on the sprues. Is it still eligible? The 251 is still untouched...
And I did some homework - the Pak40 was arriving in theatre by late 42/early 43...
I can't post images til I get home from holiday at Easter. (Borrowing a PC at the moment!)
Tom
Take pictures of what you have on the sprues before you continue, even if you just use the camera on your phone. I don't have a problem with your situation, I know what it's like to be away from home and without resources but still wanting to tear into a kit
Posted: Sunday, April 17, 2011 - 03:46 AM UTC
Cool - will do! (Good thing Mom's got a well-stocked toolbox for her doll house stuff...)
Tom
Tom
ltb073
New York, United States
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Posted: Sunday, April 17, 2011 - 06:02 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Sal: which kit? I looked at both the Tent Set and the Tiger, and they don't seem to include the other goodies.
Thanks, zon
Zon, It is Dragons Kit # 6063, Deutsche Afrika Korps
@Bob, Looking forward to seeing the camo, and I'll be on the look out for a package to, I'll let you know when it arrives, Thanks
zontar
Hawaii, United States
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Posted: Sunday, April 17, 2011 - 06:07 PM UTC
Sal: Thanks for the info. I've been scouring the net and everybody seems out of stock. I'll just keep my eyes open.
Happy Modelling, -zon
Happy Modelling, -zon
zontar
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Posted: Sunday, April 17, 2011 - 09:06 PM UTC
Aloha,
Since I've been in a paint stripping quagmire for the past couple of weeks, I decided to put some effort into some of the accessories for the dio.
Happy Modelling, -zon
Since I've been in a paint stripping quagmire for the past couple of weeks, I decided to put some effort into some of the accessories for the dio.
Happy Modelling, -zon
ltb073
New York, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, April 19, 2011 - 02:42 AM UTC
vonHengest
Texas, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, April 19, 2011 - 02:55 AM UTC
Awesome Sal! All I can say is that your work keeps getting better with each build bud Once you post your photos in the campaign gallery we will be at 4 completed builds, not bad at all
Bigrip74
Texas, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, April 19, 2011 - 07:52 AM UTC
Sal, I just figured out that you need some space to set all of these builds and wondered what SWMBO thinks
Bob
Bob