Coming together nicely john

Thanks Pat !

I also found some photos of the real thing, only 70 were built.













I was trying to find a photo since I noticed some different boxes from the Italeri kit and other builds







Italeri stowage box

John,
Your build is coming along nicely and the those photos of the real vehicle are some of the first ones I've seen of that vehicle. Pretty cool.

hello,
some progress with the set painting inside. I think I will not put the driver (it takes too much space).
steph

Steph that looks realy good my friend.

Kevin fantastic dude, and the figure painting is brill.

John your build is coming along nicely, and thanks for the real deal pics.

Thanks John (jkb) but your going to have wait a bit more before anything goes any further

I´m going to have to repaint my Scimitar, as the Tamiya
clear I used turned into a nightmare. Maybe some pics tomorrow



Paul

Hi all

Steph Looking good. Great interior detail.

John That's a very interesting tank. Looking forward to seeing it finished.

The M8 is nearly finished. Got the Brazilian decals on, and a little weathering done. I replaced the kit's tow cable with one made of picture wire, which was tightened up a little by chucking one end in a hand drill and clamping the other in a vise. I had some difficulty getting it to conform to the contours of the hull, but it looks better than a piece of string. The antennas were another problem. I'm a total failure at sprue stretching, so I made some out of stainless steel fishing leader, which is pretty springy. The tie-down lines are strands stripped from 7 strand beading wire, and are so thin they are very hard to see, let alone work with. I'm still not completely satisfied with the way they look. The lines have slack in them, and I need to eliminate that without tearing everything loose.






For stowage I added a few leftover packs from other kits. The tarps were made from used lens cleaning wipes, folded and rolled up. The straps are strips of masking tape.

Still to come are crew figures. Those will require the talents of Dr. Frankenstein and tools borrowed from the Texas Chainsaw Massacre. A few more finishing touches and the end will be almost in sight.

Cheers


Dick

Steph: Making some good progress there. I'm looking forward to seeing the completed cab.

Paul: Thanks on the figure. He is made from 4 different Dragon figures with a Hornet head, so I think he came out well.

Rich: Good progress on the M8, I know how tight the turret is so good luck jamming a figure or two in there.

Steph nice work on the Dingo- makes me want to take my one out of the stash.

Rich good progress- looking forward to the Figures. The photos look a little "Cloudy" for want of a better word, what camera are you using?

Richard;

Nice M8!

I would echo Pat... those pics look a little washed-out.

Depending on the camera you are using - even many small point n shoots have some control options - you may want to consider doing one or more of the following:

1) Mount it on a tripod and use the time (delay) release if it has such.

2) Go to your mode-set and use the "Program (P)" mode which allows you to customize some settings (I suggest DON'T use the "auto" setting if you can avoid it!). When in P mode, go to your "function set" and call up the available user-changed camera functions. IF you have some White Balance options, these will change color and intensity settings for different light sources. Try some different settings to get one you like best in your pics.

3) Go to that function button and list and look at your metering options. Select the "spot metering" option which uses the center of the frame for metering. This will allow you to aim and focus your camera on different points on your model, and the camera will adjust its speed and aperture to "best expose" that targeted point. This will allow you to select the exposure point you like best to depict details and depth-of-field on your image, by moving the camera around and test-focusing (half-push on shutter release button). *In auto mode and generally, the camera meter uses most or all of the frame, and either tries to compensate for the light background or lightens the center (darker) object and ends up washing the pic with excessive background glare.

4) IF your camera and menu-options has this: Look for for a "0 +/-" icon which allows you to set aperture lower or higher than the standard metering uses. By raising the aperture number (+), you will "under-expose" (darken) your image and also gain some depth-of-field.

Just some suggestions that have helped me get some better build pics in some cases!

Cheers!

Bob

Kevin Thanks for the comments. Jamming the figures into the turret is why the chainsaw is necessary.

Pat & Bob Thanks for the comments & suggestions. My camera is a Sony DSC P-72. The pictures were taken in filtered daylight coming through a glass door which opens onto my back porch, and the background was a white flannel pillowcase. I considered going outside where the light is better but it was 107 F here yesterday, so I'll defer that for a few more months.
I'll try a few experiments with the camera's settings and see what happens.

Cheers
Dick

Picked this up Yesterday for the campaign.

Will probably build it OOB as I have enough PE and Resin in my other builds.

Cheers Rob.

Great choice Rob

Nice one Rob !

I did that one a few years ago.
It turns into a nice kit. Don't expect a 234 Dragon quality, but it's a really nice kit.

Here it is next to a Italeri's Puma

Pat & Bob Thanks for the comments & suggestions. My camera is a Sony DSC P-72. The pictures were taken in filtered daylight coming through a glass door which opens onto my back porch, and the background was a white flannel pillowcase. I considered going outside where the light is better but it was 107 F here yesterday, so I'll defer that for a few more months.
I'll try a few experiments with the camera's settings and see what happens.

Cheers
Dick
[/quote]

Dick;

Taking the pics thru the door... Now that's a scenario I hadn't thought of, although I can surely understand your desires to skip the 107 f "natural environment"! That could surely contribute some "softness" to an image.

On the side; Hey, fellow "zoni"! I'm one, too! - although I claim those higher lands (Prescott and Flag for those formative years+) as my home. I suppose that you are located somewhere lower...

Cheers!

Bob

Rob,

Glad to see someone else doing this wonder of German engineering.

Ill follow your post closely and try to pick some tips while doing mine, which is nearly ready for it....

John

obrigado for your pictures, nice one even if old ones...I hope I could do such a good work...

Thanks guys!
I was surprised to find I did not have a kit for this campaign in my stash.

Cheers Rob.

I'm in with this.

Rob - what a perfect excuse to increase the size of the stash (as if an excuse is really needed).

The chassis of my Rolls is out of the paint shop and I'm working on the interior as I want to leave everything open. Very different working on a Roden kit instead of a Dragon or Tamiya.

Nice choice Russ. I also have this in my stash

Good work Cam brave choice to leave everything open

Cam, I've always been curious about that Roden kit.

It looks great so far !

Some nice builds going on here. I've switched to the Staghound from the 234. I can't wait to try out my first Bronco kit!

Right chaps, ready to roll.

I have received the last parts I was planning to use for the campaign, the Aber PhE parts for some radios and the ugrade for the SdKfz 234/1.

Last couple of days I build three figures as crew and primed some of the body part red, as the original br />

Looks like some activity is picking up here
My progress


windshield section is dry fit until i finish the figures and it will get more weathering

Here's an update on my Sheridan. This one's going quicker than my AAA project.
Again all comments welcome.

Greg- looking forward to the Staghound.

Sal nice paintjob

Mario ineteresting to see it primed before building.

Good progress Lonewolf