ok,
C4 goes into a series of holes on the cylinder side "face" of J 10. there are many around the edge.
You cab see this on this site of Dora pictures,its near the bottom.
http://html2.free.fr/canons/doramt.htm
In real life,the G* parts may have been part of the assembly equiptment.Then,when not in use,they were put on thaat cylinder frame ,to add weight to it.That frame had to push the round into the breech. they seem to fit down into shaped notches on L8 and S22.Dry fit it,you'll see.

Carl,
THANK YOU!
Big help. I was under the impression that it was a much larger, single part by what it looked like on the instructions.

I hate to spend 150 on a 150 page soft cover reference book , but I guess I'll bite the bullit!

Thanks again for the help

No worries.We band of nutty brothers gotta help each other out.

Line judges award for armored things,
and judges choice award winner for my Dora today at Baycon show.

Congradulations for the awards.
Can you describe how you transported the model from building site to the show?
I'm still puzzled as to how I can transport it without breaking it.

Thanks,
Tom Moon

Flat-bed trailer........LOL!!

Congreats Carl!

Transport,
I mounted the railbed sections onto 1/2 of a folding hollow core door.I cut one railbed to make the total length 80". The hollow core door section is 13" I think.I have 1/2" x 1.25" slats going crosswise at the ends and midpoint.They extend about 1" on either side.I use 1/4" plywood to go around the periphery of the lower,extending up 24".This clears the hoist tower tops. The "top " of this box is the other 1/2 door section.
I have 4 small casters at the corners,though I am thinking of making a dolly.When the lower unit is placed on a show table,it does tend to sag,and can throw the hoist towers out of alignment.

This whole "box" fits in my brother's Jeep Cherokee,extending slightly out the rear.I warn him to drive slow.
We did male the 2.5 hour trip to Danbury for AMPS east,with no damage.
I would recomend securing the railcar sections to the railbed,possibly by tying it down via the axles.

Well, I finally broke down and bought the Gerhard Taube Dora book. I have been watching it on Bookfinder for 3 weeks and found one at the right price.

Now.......is there a comparable definative book on the K5 Leopold?

Thanks

I've just picked up a set of turned aluminium ammunition for the Dora from...

www.modelbau-schatton.privat.t-online.de

The set consists of one High Explosive shell and one Armour Piercing...each shell is turned in three separate pieces which fit together beautifully. A big improvement on the rather rudimentary kit parts.
I'll try and post some pics later...

Can't wait to see

sorry, that link should read...

http://modellbau-schatton.privat.t-online.de/

Here you go Carl...the figure is actually a 54mm one so is a fraction overscale but I think you get the general impression. The shells are in their raw state and will need degreasing before painting....I just need to get started on the actual gun next...

OT.........I just got his barrel for the Trumpy K5, and like those Dora shells his work is impecable. I'll be getting those shells for sure now after seeing them!

Were bag charges used on Dora, and if so does anyone make replicas?

I googled this image http://www.answers.com/topic/80-cm-gustav-shell-compared-to-t-34-jpg

of a Dora shell.The bands on the aluminum rounds,should be near the end.I think you put the cartridge case on the end. there are pictures of the bagged charges sticking out of the end of the cartridge case.

What is the difference between the 2 different style warheads?

One is High Explosive, the other is Armour Piercing

Best of luck with your build Luis. I've been following the Portuguese build and,yes,he is right about the barrel being too long.
A lot of the detail he has added is very clear in the photographs in the Taube book which makes it a little disappointing that it was missed by the manufacturers.
Don't get me wrong, I still think that it's a magnificent kit, but considering the cost you would hope that the thing was accurate.
I'm waiting to build mine but I'm still pushed for space at the moment and I'm happy watching other peoples efforts.

That same site,I think,has him showing where to cut,and how much,to bring the sections to the correct length.

Im just curious here... what exactly would be the need for an "armor piercing" shell that size! I mean, the size and explosion of the HE shell would be plenty to obliterate a large tank., or anything else with armor, including a battleship..just thought that was a funny overkill myself.

Luis,
I have not cut my barrel yet.I did save the pictures of the areas and amounts to cut.. I will attempt that after the Chicopee Mass. show. Idid rebuild the pulleys.the kit ones are just wrong.Also,I have started rebuilding the hoks on them,too. Mine is OOB ,but I am slowly adjusting the very wrong parts.

luis,Tom has an image of his kit pulleys,with 8 lines going up,earlier in this thread.I looked at videos on you Tube,and only counted 4. you can use the kit blocks,but I just made my own from sheet styrene between the AMPS show,and Baycon ,last November.
At this level of building skill,many of the fixes I saw by looking at videos,were simple,actually.