Alex i just saw the Renault, looks good mate. The figure shows how small the R35 actually was!

The Pz 35 is painted, with a few shades, (although i think i went too far with that), and next are the tracks.

Many thanks for your kind words. I see that you can not loafing and the work going forward, good luck.

Paweł

Uncharted waters for me but my entry will be the 4.7cm Panzerjager I. It will be the Dragon 1/35 Smart Kit. Having problems uploading pictures but hopefully will have it figured out by the time the campaign ends and I finish the kit.

http://i1348.photobucket.com/albums/p738/c2fish/054_zps6493fcd4.jpg

Well that didn't really work! The link is a pic of the kit before starting.

Hi guys, i call this one finished. I hope more builds will be finished here, since it is a very interesting campaign.

Hi John,

excellent work.

Al

A cracking build there John, well done sir.

Some progress on my Pz 38(t).



Having problems with the tracks though as they won't sit within the drive wheels!

Alan L. and Alan W. thank you very much guys for your kind words. It's not perfect, yet better than previous builds. Building and learning.
Alan W. which kit is the Pz 38t?

Hello,

After a few months of inactivity due to some personal issues, I finally found some time to go on with my armoured car.

Looks like I am going to make it in time for this campaign





Hope you enjoy it..

Peter

Very nice 35T John. What kit is that?
And how was it to build?

[quote]


Hi Marc, thanks a lot. Your 232 lokks good too. Nice to see more models getting built. Most of us have kits from the early period of WWII but for some reason we dont come around to build them. It's a good chance to shrink the stash!

As for the kit it is the old CMK. It needs some attention during construction of the suspension and running gear, so that everything will be alligned and at a correct angle at the end. Other than that it is very simple to build.

It's the 1:72 kit by UM.

Finally off to a start.









Damn, just noticed - got the freakin tracks backwards!!!!

Hi

After a long delay i have some progress. I'm really not happy with the rusted exhaust so far. Lots of weathering still to be done.

Chris;

Sweat NOT!

This is one of those "dee-lish" moments that us Pz 1 modelers should indeed relish and have fun with!

What "direction" should tracks run in? There is that convention (and it's only a convention in practice, NOT any sort of technically-mandated need by "functionality considerations") that German dry-pin / dead-link tracks were mounted facing or running "wide-side" of link leading on the top run. It came out of a manufacturer convention. Tracks were installed on tanks at assembly plants using a standard procedure - and that was to do any given assembly-step "always" the same way. So... all original OEM tracks got put on in the same run direction. And of course, all links in a run have to face the same direction to link up, so... We have a convention in place.

German dry-pin tracks in most marks (Pz 1, II, III, IV, and V for sure) all came with track pins inserted from the hull-side of the run - so that pins would not simply drift out and lose the track. Pins could be inserted into either side of most link-types, so that the one type of link could be used on either side of the tank and still run the same direction (that convention...). This is why, for example, Dragon Pz. III / IV "MagicTracks" come "handed" - the links are all the same, but the pin-ends reflect the side of the tank, with "keeper clips" always to the outside of the runs. (asymmetrical links, such as winterketten, are the notable exception, as they could not be put on "paddle" facing in towards the hull!)

So, "technically speaking", one could actually install most "symmetrical link" track types running either direction (again, winterketten types were a special case..., as were the asymmetrial links used on Tigers, etc.) - and they functioned just as well either way.

But... DID this happen? That's actually "your question" here...

YES. Fairly common to find in the photo files that Pz 1A and B and some II as well had tracks put on "backwards", and even more dee-lish, one run going either way! Hardly ever seen (other than with winterketten types) on Pz III and IV. Why this? Tank crew could and did dismount Pz 1 "tiny link" tracks and do so completely for vehicle repairs. Pz III+ tracks were much larger and heavier links and runs, and much less commonly completely removed from the tank... so small Pz. I "OEM" tracks had "opportunity" to get turned around by crew doing repairs, while Pz III+ tracks much less so.

So... got one or both of them assembled "backwards"? You are OK! Photos show that these tiny tanks did sometimes "suffer" that. There are even a few training-school photos which show student-crew being instructed on maintenance... and working on those "driver-school Ohne-aufbau tanks" with reversed tracks! And if the training instructors allowed this to happen... Guess we should reshape our thinking a little about the purported rigidity of the German Army!

See any of the better ref pubs on Pz 1 (Tankograd, etc.) or pubs showing lots of Pz 1 pic in the field and you'll come across these "reversal jobs" on all versions - "gun-tanks", "kleiner befehlspanzer", panzerjager, special-use hulls.

Alas, while now you, too, "know about this detail", you are apt to still encounter show judges who are wholly naive to it.

Cheers!

Bob

Thanks for the encouragement. Luckily as soon as I saw the pic I posted, I ran back out to my workshop and the glue hadn't set so I able to reverse those suckers. This is my first go with the TRAX tools. Jury is still out on those. They do make setting the track sag easier but I didn't think the overall assembly was any easier than laying them flat and gluing runs.

Okay guys, the Pz 38(t) has been relegated to the shelf of doom for the present as the track links are a real nightmare. I've never had this much trouble with this type of track before, but on this kit they will not fit and are all over the place.

So, as my modelling time is precious, I would like to enter this Revell 1:76 Sd.Kfz 151/1 Ausf. B



Although the kit decals do not allow for a 1940 machine, I am making another 1:76 251 and I can use some decals from that.

Cheers

Alan

Hi John,

Your build is nicely finished.

Unfortunately, you have made a major error in your assembly. Somehow, you have reversed or transposed the final drives at the rear and the drive sprockets are sitting much too far forward; essentially, the back of the sprocket should be flush with the rear edge of the fender.

I've attached a couple of pictures of both the real 35(t) and a model to show what I'm talking about. Hopefully they work!

Making some minor progress. Interior needs lots more work to get it scuffed up, used and dirty.

My entry starting today:

Hi folks,

Great builds going on here with a variety of very interesting vehicles. I'm enjoying the campaign.

Al

Hi Pawel

Great work I am doing the Sd.Kfz 10/5 for the Dragon OOB campaign and hope I do half as good as job as you.

Steve

I modified the idler wheel so it looks a little more like the real one.

Cheers Rob.