Campaigns: Completed Campaigns
Campaigns that are completed should be grouped here.
Hosted by Richard S.
Operation Fall Gelb 1940 Campaign
Nito74
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Lisboa, Portugal
Joined: March 04, 2008
KitMaker: 5,386 posts
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Posted: Wednesday, January 22, 2014 - 08:02 AM UTC
Some work on the small Zvezda:

Love these instructions, so clear and easy



Bluestab
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South Carolina, United States
Joined: December 03, 2009
KitMaker: 2,160 posts
Armorama: 1,906 posts
Posted: Friday, January 24, 2014 - 04:55 AM UTC
A quick update.

Basic assembly of the R35 is done. I've left the tools, roadwheel, tow chain, and exhaust off until after it is painted with a base color.




And just a blurry front shot to show the driver in position. This is the best shot of the bunch. I think the camera was trying to focus in on the edge of the open driver's hatch or the front glacis.


With the tank waiting for paint, I decided to go ahead and start work on the 25mm gun. I have built the same kit back in the 90s. The plan was to add a second carrier and gun to the plan diorama. Now, I'm thinking about replacing the old gun with the new one. The old one is missing some pieces and the trail arms were actually broken and have been patched.
Anyway, I started on the arms. I didn't have a great deal of time and figured the arms would be a great way to start. Lots of clean-up and very little progress made.


Anyway, I've added the R35 to the growing line up kits needing paint. Once the weather warms up a bit, I'm looking at a marathon paint session.
Darson
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Victoria, Australia
Joined: June 14, 2005
KitMaker: 247 posts
Armorama: 129 posts
Posted: Friday, January 24, 2014 - 12:25 PM UTC
Nice work on the R35 Alex, I can't wait to see her with some paint on.
Nito74
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Lisboa, Portugal
Joined: March 04, 2008
KitMaker: 5,386 posts
Armorama: 4,727 posts
Posted: Saturday, January 25, 2014 - 04:02 AM UTC
Some progress on the small Zvezda.

MichaelSatin
Staff MemberCampaigns Administrator
AEROSCALE
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Colorado, United States
Joined: January 19, 2008
KitMaker: 3,909 posts
Armorama: 510 posts
Posted: Saturday, January 25, 2014 - 07:57 AM UTC
Finished my Tamiya 1/35 Citroen Traction 11CV French staff car. Not the best pictures nor, I'm sorry to say, my best work. Still, different for me and I hope you like it.

 photo 2014-01-25_12-45-47_263_zpsb118de20.jpg

Michael
nng-nng
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Bayern, Germany
Joined: October 22, 2013
KitMaker: 380 posts
Armorama: 376 posts
Posted: Sunday, January 26, 2014 - 08:03 AM UTC
Some progress on my R-35... still have to think how to spell Renault...

I´ve addend an interior, so that i can leave the hatches open, I also applied the basecoat.







I`ve planed to brushpaint the cammo, but I still have to decide wich of my thousand greens I should use
Darson
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Victoria, Australia
Joined: June 14, 2005
KitMaker: 247 posts
Armorama: 129 posts
Posted: Sunday, January 26, 2014 - 10:48 PM UTC
Looking good Fabian and I know that feeling, you have 300 shades of green in your collection so which one to choose?

Here is a starting pic of my kit for this group build, it's the Tamiya Matilda II (complete with red wine stain on the box)mated with the TMD Matilda Mk.1 BEF backdate. The TMD conversion will take the Tamiya kit back to the initial production version of the A12 that served with the British Expeditionary Force. At that time the tank was officially known as the Infantry Tank Mk II. It was renamed the Matilda Mk I when nomenclature was revised in 1941.

Wish me luck
16dollars
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Baden-Württemberg, Germany
Joined: September 14, 2012
KitMaker: 69 posts
Armorama: 69 posts
Posted: Sunday, January 26, 2014 - 11:17 PM UTC
After the Renaults we get some british tanks too - very interesting!
Speaking of british tanks... are there kits available for a Matilda A11 ?
Darson
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Victoria, Australia
Joined: June 14, 2005
KitMaker: 247 posts
Armorama: 129 posts
Posted: Sunday, January 26, 2014 - 11:53 PM UTC

Quoted Text

After the Renaults we get some british tanks too - very interesting!
Speaking of british tanks... are there kits available for a Matilda A11 ?



Hey Jens, the only A11 that I know of is the resin one from Accurate Amour

http://www.accurate-armour.com/ShowProduct.cfm?manufacturer=0&category=1&subcategory=1&product=47
16dollars
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Baden-Württemberg, Germany
Joined: September 14, 2012
KitMaker: 69 posts
Armorama: 69 posts
Posted: Monday, January 27, 2014 - 12:16 AM UTC
Thank you , Darren.
AlanL
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England - East Anglia, United Kingdom
Joined: August 12, 2005
KitMaker: 14,499 posts
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Posted: Monday, January 27, 2014 - 12:23 AM UTC
Hi folks,

Some great builds going on here, nice work.

Al
Bluestab
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South Carolina, United States
Joined: December 03, 2009
KitMaker: 2,160 posts
Armorama: 1,906 posts
Posted: Monday, January 27, 2014 - 05:54 AM UTC
Fabian,
I just finished painting the base coat to my R35 and the 25mm gun. I went with Testors Medium Green. I'll tweak the shade a bit with filters, weathering, etc. I'm colorblind so I tend to play it a little loose with paint shades.
easyco69
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Ontario, Canada
Joined: November 03, 2012
KitMaker: 2,275 posts
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Posted: Monday, January 27, 2014 - 06:13 AM UTC
Update.
Well, i'm about 1/2 done so far. Going with standard German Grey . Looks nice in Black & white eh? Ignore the gaps, it's not totally glued together yet lol.
easyco69
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Ontario, Canada
Joined: November 03, 2012
KitMaker: 2,275 posts
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Posted: Monday, January 27, 2014 - 06:54 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Raul;

The notch you are pointing to...

Turns out, from closer inspection of that barrel set (have a few in my drawers...), that the RB KwK 30 barrel does NOT have that slot (nor the PE parts) for the lock-tab set-up I had mentioned before as being seen on their KwK and FlaK 38 barrels. That slot and PE are not features of the KwK 30 barrel. (And when looking at the FlaK 38 barrel... I notice that there is MORE receiver-tube represented there then on this KwK 30 barrel... )

So... that small notch or slot across that KwK 30 muzzle-brake may well be your target... the itty-bitty PE parts look like a pair of tiny bolt-heads... and there is actually one of those notches on either side of that muzzle-brake... I'll bet at this point that those 2 tiny PE bolt-heads go into those 2 notches and are meant to represent lock- or set-screws used to keep that M-B on the barrel.

I've never installed them on my KwK 30 builds! Out of ignorance, I'll add (I've simply ignored that tiny PE fret and marveled at the cool M-B and went right to installation!)! Perhaps my poor gunners will find one blazing afternoon that the muzzle-brake is working its way off in the heat of the moment!

To get them off that fret and onto your M-B... stick that fret onto a piece of tape, and use your small knife to nick off the connector tabs while the bolt-heads remain stuck to the tape. Mounting them calls for maybe just painting your barrel and M-B and, while the paint in those notches is still wet, placing a bolt-head into each groove (notch) with a water-wet tooth-pick. This may be easier then messing with getting a tiny droplet of CA in there, and the paint will hold that PE just fine!

Bob



or just use a small dab of your own "spit/saliva" on the end of your hobby knife to get the small PE part into place.
panzerbob01
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Louisiana, United States
Joined: March 06, 2010
KitMaker: 3,128 posts
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Posted: Monday, January 27, 2014 - 08:36 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Update.
Well, i'm about 1/2 done so far. Going with standard German Grey . Looks nice in Black & white eh? Ignore the gaps, it's not totally glued together yet lol.



"Gaps? Er... what gaps? Don't these things have air-vents?"

Looks pretty panzer III-ish, to me! I am, however, a little surprised to see you plan on straight dunkelgrau, given as we have pretty good record to suggest that most or maybe all III-E and even some F participating in Fall Gelb were painted in the still-current regulation brown over gray scheme...? Now, of course, if this were one of those tanks sent back for major repair and refurb and repainting... I think those may have "escaped" being restored or repainted to the brown over gray scheme in May or June of '40.

Bob
Bluestab
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South Carolina, United States
Joined: December 03, 2009
KitMaker: 2,160 posts
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Posted: Monday, January 27, 2014 - 09:00 AM UTC
Quick update.

Another shot of the 25mm gun's chassis and trail arms, this time a bit further along in construction.


I'm skipping ahead here to the 25mm gun being ready for paint. The assembly pictures I had of the gun were pretty horrible. The actual assembly was pretty straightforward. It was complicated by the Heller factor of heavy flash, vague parts placement, etc.


Speaking of paint. I've been on a paintapalooza today. The weather is quite nice and the sun has been out and the temperatures have been very Spring-like. We're suppose to be getting a cold wave in tonight, so it's the calm before the storm. Anyway, the R35 and 25mm are in the process of drying. And I know I should have masked off and painted the sand portions first.
Blackstoat
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England - East Anglia, United Kingdom
Joined: October 15, 2012
KitMaker: 568 posts
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Posted: Monday, January 27, 2014 - 10:31 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Update.
Well, i'm about 1/2 done so far. Going with standard German Grey . Looks nice in Black & white eh? Ignore the gaps, it's not totally glued together yet lol.



Looking good buddy, looking forward to seeing that finished

One question, how many campaigns are you in. Are you sponsored by Duracell?
easyco69
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Ontario, Canada
Joined: November 03, 2012
KitMaker: 2,275 posts
Armorama: 2,233 posts
Posted: Monday, January 27, 2014 - 12:55 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

Update.
Well, i'm about 1/2 done so far. Going with standard German Grey . Looks nice in Black & white eh? Ignore the gaps, it's not totally glued together yet lol.



"Gaps? Er... what gaps? Don't these things have air-vents?"

Looks pretty panzer III-ish, to me! I am, however, a little surprised to see you plan on straight dunkelgrau, given as we have pretty good record to suggest that most or maybe all III-E and even some F participating in Fall Gelb were painted in the still-current regulation brown over gray scheme...? Now, of course, if this were one of those tanks sent back for major repair and refurb and repainting... I think those may have "escaped" being restored or repainted to the brown over gray scheme in May or June of '40.

Bob


thx for the info. send me a pic plz
Would it be correct if I used this paint scheme Bob?
easyco69
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Ontario, Canada
Joined: November 03, 2012
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Posted: Monday, January 27, 2014 - 01:04 PM UTC
Nvm lol. I took a look at the instruction sheet paint guide, your right .
Raulito
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Buenos Aires, Argentina
Joined: January 24, 2013
KitMaker: 112 posts
Armorama: 105 posts
Posted: Tuesday, January 28, 2014 - 02:06 AM UTC

Quoted Text

DAVID
or just use a small dab of your own "spit/saliva" on the end of your hobby knife to get the small PE part into place.



Yeah! Saliva! The handiest modeling solution! But beware, in the heat of the combat, do NOT lick your hobby knife…

My Pz.II C advance came to a halt because the supply line has been cut.

I´m waiting for the Archer transfers ordered last week, when they arrive I´ll start with the weathering.

Till then.

Raul
Raulito
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Buenos Aires, Argentina
Joined: January 24, 2013
KitMaker: 112 posts
Armorama: 105 posts
Posted: Tuesday, January 28, 2014 - 12:49 PM UTC
Hi all

One question.

How well the Archer transfers does adheres to uneven surfaces? I never use them.
I know how to use transfers (I´m an architect from the Letraset old days ).

The numbers on the turret goes right on top of the visors, and that’s my concern.

Cheers.

Raul
panzerbob01
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Louisiana, United States
Joined: March 06, 2010
KitMaker: 3,128 posts
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Posted: Tuesday, January 28, 2014 - 02:01 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Hi all

One question.

How well the Archer transfers does adheres to uneven surfaces? I never use them.
I know how to use transfers (I´m an architect from the Letraset old days ).

The numbers on the turret goes right on top of the visors, and that’s my concern.

Cheers.

Raul



That's exactly why I went to doing stencils whenever possible... it's very difficult, in my experience, to get either decals or dry-transfers to fit cleanly and evenly over such convoluted surfaces. It MAY be effective to cut the numeral into sections which apply to the different surfaces? (one onto the vision-visor, the other(s) separately to the adjacent hull-faces?)

Bob
Removed by original poster on 01/29/14 - 04:11:42 (GMT).
Raulito
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Buenos Aires, Argentina
Joined: January 24, 2013
KitMaker: 112 posts
Armorama: 105 posts
Posted: Tuesday, January 28, 2014 - 04:50 PM UTC

Quoted Text

BOB
That's exactly why I went to doing stencils whenever possible... it's very difficult, in my experience, to get either decals or dry-transfers to fit cleanly and evenly over such convoluted surfaces. It MAY be effective to cut the numeral into sections which apply to the different surfaces? (one onto the vision-visor, the other(s) separately to the adjacent hull-faces?)



Yes, Bob. That´s what I´m planning. Something like this.



But I have to look if there will be a difference in height.

I don´t know, maybe I´m getting a little obsessed. We shall see when the transfers arrive. I´ll do some test first.

By the way, you apply transfers on a glossy surface like decals, don´t you?

Raul
panzerbob01
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Louisiana, United States
Joined: March 06, 2010
KitMaker: 3,128 posts
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Posted: Wednesday, January 29, 2014 - 07:18 AM UTC
Raul;

I think you have the right idea as diagrammed for either decals or dry-transfers. There should be very little, if any, distortion of numeral-height between the section items and the entire item(s) if you do things pretty carefully and fit both sections right to the concerned edges.

My experience with dry transfer (let alone decals) is limited - but I had success applying small dry-transfer numbers and letters to a couple of builds where I simply rubbed them down onto the matt paint surface. So...

As to matching paint colors for those "bridge" segments - IF you are going to use some numerals with other-than-white (or black), you may want to do some matching before you apply your transfers to the build. Just a suggestion!

Bob