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Armor/AFV: Modern - USA
Modern Armor, AFVs, and Support vehicles.
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Kinetic MaxxPro step by step
hliu24
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Posted: Saturday, May 17, 2014 - 08:58 AM UTC
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I will put up more later, Hans

Jay
18Bravo
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Posted: Saturday, May 17, 2014 - 09:24 AM UTC
Nice progress. I have to ask - will the sinkholes in the frame rails even show once the body is on them?
hliu24
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Posted: Saturday, May 17, 2014 - 06:00 PM UTC
Hi, Rob

here are a few close shots......I am not very sure what you meant.....

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Jay
HermannB
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Posted: Saturday, May 17, 2014 - 06:41 PM UTC
Hi Jay, thx for the pix!
hliu24
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Posted: Sunday, May 18, 2014 - 04:06 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Hi Jay, thx for the pix!


No problem, hans, I wonder if pro art will make the USAF conversion soon, they have most the parts already anyway, maybe I will write an email to Dirk, haha.

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jay




35th-scale
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Posted: Monday, May 19, 2014 - 12:18 AM UTC

Quoted Text



looks like there are a few ways to install the rhino on the maxxpro.



Now look what you did: I have to go order a Rhino for my Maxx Pro. So who does the best Rhino?

Also, looking at the weapons in the kit: they are the poorest part of it. The M2 is really bad with very soft detial. The Mk19 is OK, but not great. I have a Live resin Mk47 in the stash and was wondering if this would be a suitable weapon on the Maxx Pro?
hliu24
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Posted: Monday, May 19, 2014 - 07:53 AM UTC
Hi,Sean

I have the voyager and ET model set, but the rhino on the maxxpro looks a little different than those 2 sets, what do you think about the rhino comes with the kit?

Rhino from the legend Maxxpro, also looks different than their rhino box set? i remember you have that one on your m1151?
yc3O7
http://armorama.kitmaker.net/forums/191585
hliu24
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Posted: Monday, May 19, 2014 - 08:05 AM UTC
I don't have any pictures of the Mk47 on Maxxpro with O-GPK turret, I do have a photo of mini gun on the O-GPK though....however, it would be very cool if you use the Mk47.

here is the youtube link, Mk47 on Maxxpro Dash without the gun shield.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wUGA-SY4mv4

Jay

Hisham
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Posted: Monday, May 19, 2014 - 08:10 AM UTC
Thank you for posting all this, it'll be helpful when I get mine

Have you thought about what you're going to do about the sink holes on the sides of the body? I was thinking of MR Surfacer 1200.. do you think that'll be enough to cover it up?

Hisham
hliu24
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Posted: Monday, May 19, 2014 - 08:24 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Thank you for posting all this, it'll be helpful when I get mine

Have you thought about what you're going to do about the sink holes on the sides of the body? I was thinking of MR Surfacer 1200.. do you think that'll be enough to cover it up?

Hisham


Get a free replacement from Kinetic instead? have no clue if we could get it for free though.

I remember Pascal tried it , but still shows.

J
hliu24
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Posted: Monday, May 19, 2014 - 11:23 AM UTC
Take a look at this USAF maxxpro with Rhino.

https://flic.kr/p/noGxks


Jay
hliu24
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Posted: Monday, May 19, 2014 - 02:19 PM UTC
Next step is pretty straightforward, just make sure part B54 is sitting at 90 degree on top of B57.

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Jay



35th-scale
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Posted: Monday, May 19, 2014 - 07:22 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Hi,Sean

......, what do you think about the rhino comes with the kit?

...... i remember you have that one on your m1151?


There#s one in the kit? Sorry, missed that, as it's not on the box-art. Must check it out.

Yes, I have the Legend one on the M1151. There does seem to be an extra bar at the front of the fixed base.

Also, if you have not yet done the front wheel assembly: when constructing the front wheel assembly if the two hub halfs each side are not glued to the pins in the axel ends, and the connector rod from one hub to the other is fixed by melting the ends of the locating pins, then the wheels can be left movable. May not make sense in writing but when you're looking at this step in the instructions you'll understand.
35th-scale
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Posted: Tuesday, May 20, 2014 - 07:49 AM UTC
Not meaning to hi-jack your thread, but just to make my last post clearer



Hope you don't mind

Sean
hliu24
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Posted: Tuesday, May 20, 2014 - 08:45 AM UTC
not at all, I am glad to see your post here and i will love to see more updates if you don't mind.

Thanks for the tip, I will look into it.

jay
35th-scale
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Posted: Tuesday, May 20, 2014 - 10:20 AM UTC
Cheers. Parts C5 & C6 are mid-labeled in the instructions on page 5. They are the armour around front wheel wells and should be on the other sides. It's pretty obvious when you dry-fit them anyway so no major blunder in the instructions
hliu24
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Posted: Tuesday, May 20, 2014 - 11:13 AM UTC
Page 5? i am still on the page 1

jay
35th-scale
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Posted: Tuesday, May 20, 2014 - 07:51 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

Hi,Sean

......, what do you think about the rhino comes with the kit?



There#s one in the kit? Sorry, missed that, as it's not on the box-art. Must check it out.



There's no Rhino in the kit!
Vodnik
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Posted: Tuesday, May 20, 2014 - 08:06 PM UTC

Quoted Text


There's no Rhino in the kit!

Yes, there IS a Rhino in the kit:

35th-scale
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Posted: Tuesday, May 20, 2014 - 09:02 PM UTC
Sorry, it was late last night when I looked. Just checked the instructions, not the actual parts.... but good news, thanks.

Have you identified the part to attach it to the bumper?
mvaiano
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Posted: Tuesday, May 20, 2014 - 10:32 PM UTC
Sean, this Rhino is the same of M-ATV.

I posted a comment here with a link to instrucions. There you have the correct pieces numbers.

I just don't know if is possible instal this Rhino in the MaxxPro.

Jay, I just loved your build so far.

Cheers!

Marco
hliu24
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Posted: Wednesday, May 21, 2014 - 04:45 AM UTC
Thanks Marco! the fit of the kit is very good so far, and you don't really need to clean that up after you cut the part out, that is quite amazing.

here is link pic from Marco
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Red-rhino, blue-Harris radio , green-intercom, black-maxxpro back camera monitor(from the USAF version), I am not sure about the yellow-K40, it might be part of the mount for rhino?

Jay

HeavyArty
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Posted: Wednesday, May 21, 2014 - 04:56 AM UTC
This looks really nice and is coming along well. Good job so far.
hliu24
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Posted: Wednesday, May 21, 2014 - 05:07 AM UTC
Thank you so much Gino.

Also, there are a lot of wiring going on around the frame rails and bumper area, which are showing in rob's pics, I have no idea how to duplicate that on my model.

Jay
HeavyArty
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Posted: Wednesday, May 21, 2014 - 05:36 AM UTC
The best way I found to duplicate wiring is thin fuze wire or solder. Go to a Radio Shack and look for 0.020 or 0.015 fuze wire. It is very flexible and easy to mold into wire bundles.
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