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Armor/AFV: Modern - USA
Modern Armor, AFVs, and Support vehicles.
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Kinetic MaxxPro step by step
hliu24
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Posted: Friday, May 23, 2014 - 12:42 PM UTC
here are rob's and Jamie's pictures

DSC01865

2cb2c33a19db998ae3ed7c86726818b6

Jay
hliu24
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Posted: Friday, May 23, 2014 - 12:45 PM UTC

Quoted Text

That is what filler putty is for. My guess is that they left it as a fill-in part so they could later do the grills and produce a MaxxPro Plus or Dash version.


Hi, Gino

Can you tell me how to use the Filler putty, never used it, I might have to learn it and fix this babe hopefully.

Thanks

Jay
hliu24
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Posted: Friday, May 23, 2014 - 12:50 PM UTC
my other concern is that square shape is not even close to the one on the dash or pro version.


Jay
HeavyArty
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Posted: Friday, May 23, 2014 - 01:00 PM UTC
Using filler putty is easy. Spread some over the seam lines, let dry, then sand until it is smooth with the surrounding plastic and the seam disappears. The area will look like one solid piece once painted.

As to the the rectangle piece vs. the vent screen on the Plus and Dash versions, I am assuming that new E26 and E27 pieces with vents would be made to fit in place, yet still requiring filler putty to blend them in smoothly.
hliu24
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Posted: Friday, May 23, 2014 - 01:03 PM UTC
which brand do you recommend? Thanks.
HeavyArty
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Posted: Friday, May 23, 2014 - 01:28 PM UTC
I like Squadron Green putty, but most any brand will do.

hliu24
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Posted: Friday, May 23, 2014 - 01:33 PM UTC
Thanks boss.

Jay
18Bravo
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Posted: Friday, May 23, 2014 - 01:39 PM UTC
For something like that I'd prefer CA. With a small shot of accelerator it cures instantly and you can have the whole job finished in about a minute. No waiting and no shrinkage.

By the way, I had a very pleasant conversation with Raymond last night. I don't want to steal his thunder, but we're in for a great rest of the year.
hliu24
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Posted: Friday, May 23, 2014 - 02:06 PM UTC
Cool, rob you mean these

BSI106CA_wm

$(KGrHqF,!k0FJ,bPYiJgBSfeoIczS!~~60_57

how do you use those to fill the gap? i know nothing about it, thank you.

jay
18Bravo
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Posted: Friday, May 23, 2014 - 03:16 PM UTC
Stretch a piece of sprue as thin as you can, then cut it at an angle to get a sharp point. Use it to apply the CA.
hliu24
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Posted: Friday, May 23, 2014 - 03:52 PM UTC
thank you Rob

One more greenhorn question, should I use thin, medium or thick CA glue?

Jay
hliu24
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Posted: Saturday, May 24, 2014 - 05:57 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Cheers. Parts C5 & C6 are mid-labeled in the instructions on page 5. They are the armour around front wheel wells and should be on the other sides. It's pretty obvious when you dry-fit them anyway so no major blunder in the instructions


Thanks , sean.

guys, Watch out C5 and C6,

100_4678

100_4679

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Jay



hliu24
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Posted: Saturday, May 24, 2014 - 06:19 PM UTC
Also finished step 3.

100_4682

Part C16 is not showing in the instruction, it should be glued to part E32.
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100_4684

showing Part E32
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Jay

hliu24
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Posted: Saturday, May 24, 2014 - 06:23 PM UTC
Thanks to Gino and Robert, gap is fixed.

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100_4691

Jay

henkp
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Posted: Saturday, May 24, 2014 - 08:27 PM UTC
hello jay youre going as a train so fast did you getr a new hull for maxx-pro ????
keep up the good work
henk
35th-scale
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Posted: Sunday, May 25, 2014 - 04:44 AM UTC
Looking good Jay

Does anyone know are the seatbelts 3, 4 or 5 point?

Thanks
Sean
17741907
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Posted: Sunday, May 25, 2014 - 11:09 AM UTC
Looks good so far Jay...
18Bravo
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Posted: Sunday, May 25, 2014 - 12:34 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Looking good Jay

Does anyone know are the seatbelts 3, 4 or 5 point?

Thanks
Sean


Four point.
35th-scale
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Posted: Sunday, May 25, 2014 - 07:53 PM UTC
Thanks Rob: I'm going to try a first for me: scratchbuild seatbelts....


Quoted Text


Part C16 is not showing in the instruction, it should be glued to part E32.


Oops, missed that.
hliu24
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Posted: Monday, May 26, 2014 - 12:45 AM UTC

Quoted Text

hello jay youre going as a train so fast did you getr a new hull for maxx-pro ????
keep up the good work
henk


No, I didn't, I just need to find a way to fix the sink marks and thanks Man, by the way how's your build? it is memorial day 3 days weekend here, trying to get some work done.

Jay
hliu24
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Posted: Monday, May 26, 2014 - 12:46 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Looks good so far Jay...


Thanks Hakan.

Jay
hliu24
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Posted: Monday, May 26, 2014 - 12:49 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Thanks Rob: I'm going to try a first for me: scratchbuild seatbelts....


Quoted Text


Part C16 is not showing in the instruction, it should be glued to part E32.


Oops, missed that.


should be an easy fix....

jay
hliu24
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Posted: Monday, May 26, 2014 - 01:08 AM UTC
Step 4.

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100_4694

Couple things here,

1. "The rear bulkhead is attached at this point but relies on the position of the side fenders and compartments installed at step 4. Doing it over again I would attach the bulkhead then too. It's out of the way of the interior parts, and would make the alignment much easier"--Jamie

Thanks Jamie, it helped.

You don't have to glue it at this stage(yes you can as well), but use it to secure the side fenders and compartments.

2. There is not folding line on the PE.......it doesn't matter what you use, be careful.

3. The AC unit, you have 2 choices.

100_4696

100_4695

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Jay




henkp
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Posted: Monday, May 26, 2014 - 02:44 AM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

hello jay youre going as a train so fast did you getr a new hull for maxx-pro ????
keep up the good work
henk


No, I didn't, I just need to find a way to fix the sink marks and thanks Man, by the way how's your build? it is memorial day 3 days weekend here, trying to get some work done.

Jay


hello jay iam in a no building moment iam to busy with my ar15 at the shooting club
henk
hliu24
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Posted: Monday, May 26, 2014 - 04:39 PM UTC
Henk,

Haha



Jay
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