All these engine mounts allow you to "slide" the engine fore to aft.

It is a bit of a challenge to get the engine back far enough to have the muffler assembly clear the back of the engine cowl and far enough forward to have the radiator come out more or less in the right place relative to the cab.

I might have to lengthen the radiator hoses or the exhaust pipe just slightly.

Note: I found one reference photo that showed the muffler (with heat shield) so far back it was right up against and touching those two lifting towers behind the engine.

Be sure to check out the last few posts on the previous page. There are some significant drawings there.

Had to change things up for awhile and switch to working on something else.

Did not move far from working on that engine, as I decided to finish up the framing on the engine cowl. In case anyone wonders what those donuts on the roof of the cowl are; they are rubber baby buggy bumpers that keep the sheet metal hood for clanging like a gong every time someone opens them up and just lets them fall over onto the other side.

Some HEMTTs had them most did not.

Paint!

I want to go desert sand with this vehicle but I would also like to make it one that clearly was re-sprayed and was originally the dark green color. Now it is a no brainer that the inside of the cab would remain green. How about the inside surfaces of the doors? Green or sand?

Finally how much work would a repaint crew go to to paint the running gear in the lighter color? Would most all the underside retain the original green?

Doors should be green. As for the running gear, there will be some green visible on the tops of the third members, inside the frame rails etc.

When you say "third members" does that refer to the frame cross members? (Just trying to be sure what you mean.) Would things like the differentials be green or would they be black?

Thanks

Sorry, third members are the parts you reworked on axles 1 and 4. Some green peeking thru on the tops of them, tops of axle housings, in the nooks and crannies of the crossmembers. The bottom of axles, toolboxes etc, could have much green showing thru. Everything would have started out in green.

Basically, do full coverage in green on the chassis, then let the tan fall naturally where it wants. Dont worry too much about extra coverage of the tan.

Every HEMTT I ever worked on and their variants (which is a ton of them) that was painted or repainted in sand color, didn't have any visible green anywhere. Not even underneath. Not unless something was changed in the field or at the motor pool. The interior did remain green though.

I will admit, that there is definitely the possibility of having green visible for sure. The paint shop at Ft. Sill was methodical about getting good coverage I suppose.

To add to my statement, this was in 2003-2005 and perhaps the paint shop may have not been as much of a rush as they may have been further into the war. Which could lead to not getting as good of coverage in places less visible.

Thanks guys.

I think I am going to go for a semi-rush look so that some green will show down below but not too much.

Mike, looking good.

Oh, one more paint question:

Factory color for the Detroit Diesel and Tranny?

The Real Models instruction sheet shows a sort of medium to light green????

Detroit paints the engines a blueish green. Im not sure what the Army does to them tho.

The 8v92 in the HEMTT was a sea foam green color.

Actually it was a blueish green. I think I'm thinking of the 903 cummins that was sea foam green.

It's kinda sea foamish

Perfect - got it!

I could find a photo of every component in an open shipping crate EXCEPT the engine!

I had said I was working on a front engine mount - here is what I came up with next to the real thing.

Coming along nicely, cant wait to see that engine painted.

OK, so it will look better when installed!

Not a great photo but a great moment - the entire driveline is in!

Much better photo!

Looking real nice.